It seems like the first thing in the morning when I pull out of the driveway my car acts like it not accelerating smoothly. It's kinda jerky and seems like it takes a second to get the gas. I mean I know some cars are a little jerky after not being driven for a day or so but she is brand new, only a few months old.
View 21 RepliesHard time getting your manual MK6 to shift smoothly when the engine is cool after sitting overnight?? Got about 4k miles on it and I don't recall it happening when I first got it. Started maybe at 2k miles and happens every morning. It seems to only happen to me until the car warms up and then its fine, it jerks like if I was learning how to drive a manual.
View 16 RepliesI have a 4 cylinder 2009 Sonata with an automatic transmission and it does not accelerate smoothly when starting out from idle. A slight touch on the accelerator pedal causes the motor to accelerate hard as though the pedal was pushed down a lot further than "a slight touch". Is this normal or should this car accelerate smoothly? I am wondering if there is a common problem with either the accelerator pedal sensor or maybe with the throttle servo.
View 3 RepliesOur 1997 Lumina with a 3.1 liter engine and about 190,000KMS is having difficulty starting in the morning.
I have changed the spark plugs, plug wires, checked the connections to the battery and put dielectric grease on them. None of that seemed to make much of a difference. The key has to be held for about 5-7 seconds and it coughs to life and then runs rough for about another 5 seconds and the interior lights are dim during this too. After that it comes to life and runs great.
Is it possible for starters to start to weaken? I have never had a starter do that, they have either worked or not. Besides that, I don't know what else could be the problem.
I have heard that these engines can have condensation issues when the temperature straddles the freezing mark, which it has been the last few weeks. Maybe it just needs to get below zero and stay there?
1987 Acura Integra Automatic, 160k I have been noticing - mostly for every start (there are a few in between that did not have that sound).
When starting, a loud sound (some what unbearable) heard and was hesitant and then the engine starts. Once started it runs fine. It is not the usual sound that the ignition makes when going bad.
What seems to be the issue? Right after I drained and filled AT fluid, it heard the first time. I have been doing AT fluid since nearly 10yrs ago with Honda fluid. I only did drain and fill and it went smoothly. In 2007, the tranny was replaced. After starting, the car runs smoothly - it is only when starting or just before engine try to start. Batt and alternator tests fine.
It hardly did it today - I might have once heard a girding sound just before starting.
My golf, made in 2008 (1.6 FSI, petrol), has a tricky problem now. When I turn on its engine for the first time in the morning, its RPM goes over 10 (12~13) with louder sound than normal. So I turn it off and on again, and then everything becomes immediately fine: RPM is below 10 and the sound is just fine. After that, the problem does not happen again all day. But it happens in the next morning when I turn on the engine for the first time in the day!!
View 2 RepliesStarting yesterday, I have been experiencing a strange braking problem with my GTI. I leave my house, and then the first time I really have to use the brakes, it's like I have NO brakes. I push the pedal the normal amount, and I feel resistance in the pedal, but the car basically doesn't slow down. Then I press the pedal down HARD (don't want to run the stop sign at the bottom of the hill!) and then it slows down pretty quickly. After this first episode, the brakes are normal. Starting yesterday leaving work, it has done it to me three times in a row. It seems the car has to sit a while for this to happen.
Again, its not necessarily the first time I hit the brake pedal (my car is a manual) but it is the first time meaningful braking is needed. The car has 7k miles on it. When it started yesterday afternoon leaving work, as I pulled out, it felt like the brakes were stuck and abruptly released for a second, and it almost felt like the brakes were dragging slightly on the way home for a while. I do always use the handbrake, of course I release it fully. When I got to work, I checked all the brake rotors, they were all cool to the touch. How does the 'hill-holder' feature work (could it be messing up?)
Sounds like a squirrel knocking on the rear hatch for a few seconds. Is this the fuel pump by any chance??
What i have noticed is that the relay clicking in the CECM is no longer clicking, yet now i hear this knocking in the rear hatch area when i start it up after it sits overnight.
A couple months ago i posted that i had some choppy acceleration. I didn't do anything about it because I was looking for my vag-com cable but couldn't find it. well, i still haven't found it but my problem is getting worse. I have an older version of vag-com 303 and i think that it only supports serial.
Let me also describe my problem and what i have done so far to try and remedy it: basically, when i start to accel from a stop it doesn't accel smooth and feels like it is about to go limp and then all of a sudden i get this burst of accel. it is much more noticeable when accel from a stop but it is also noticeable when pressing the throttle, just does not accel smooth and once in a while, i get this sudden burst of power. And the car has gone into some kind of limp mode twice so far.
Once with my wife and just the other day when i was on the freeway, i lost all power and the EPC light came on and the ESP round arrow thingy. i pulled over, shut off the car and 30 sec later i was able to start driving again and all the lights went out, but of course, choppy accel still persists. the other day when i was accel i heard a POW from underneath. and my wife tells me she has heard it once before. when i remove the cable from the MAF everything goes back to normal. i cleaned the existing MAF, and when that did not work i replaced the MAF and still the same problem.
I have a 1997 Honda Cr-V. Everything is great except, when I try to accelerate. From a stop, say, at a light, I cannot get it to accelerate smoothly. It feels like the engine gets bogged down. I almost have to feather the gas peddle just to get it to go. Once its gotten going and I am accelerating over about 15 or 20 mph everything it fine.
Also, when I've reached my intended speed and let go of the gas peddle, only to accelerate again, there is no problem.
I find it hard to smoothly accelerate from a stop with my V6 DSG. I have to be very careful how much pressure I apply to the gas to get a smooth take off...too easy to accelerate to fast or break the tires loose. Can this be reprogrammed?
View 3 RepliesI have a 1998 Chevy K1500 4x4 which is experiencing issues on two fronts: brakes and general operation.
For the brakes, over the last couple years, we have replaced just about every part of the system, including - master cylinder - calipers - brake lines. In addition, in the last week, I worked with a local mechanic to bleed the lines and he turned the rotors as well. The result is that while the truck does stop, the pedal height is still really high and feels like there's no pressure until the pedal's nearly to the floor. I get the feeling that if I needed to stop abruptly or at a higher speed than 35mph, I wouldn't be able to. I'm not sure what needs to happen next.
As to the general operation: the first time I start the truck on any given day, it fires up and runs smoothly. If I take it across town, however, and put it in the park, it gasps, sputters, and dies. It is then very difficult to get the vehicle to start again--usually, I have to push the gas pedal all the way to the floor and grind the starter until the engine turns over. After that, I have to keep my foot on the accelerator for 15-30 seconds at around 3000 RPM as the truck shudders and lurches, until it smooths out. Once I put it into drive or reverse, however, it dies, unless I am quick to push the accelerator again. Until recently, the truck had only been driven four times in the last two years or so. So far, I have: - replaced the air filter - added fresh gas (to the old) - added an engine treatment (Sea-Foam) Everything I have done is stuff that needs to be taken care of anyway, and I want to take care of all the little things before I take it to a dealership to have a full diagnostic run on it. I also plan to have an oil change done on it this week.
I drive a 12-year-old Honda CRV with 185K miles on it.
Recently, I had the car in the shop to fix an oil leak in the engine. I also had the catalytic converter replaced, since its connection point was badly rusted. Since I got the car back, I have been experiencing intermittent trouble accelerating the engine when I first start up in the morning. The engine idle sounds normal at first, but when I take my foot off the brake and put it on the accelerator, nothing happens for several seconds. Eventually, the engine seems to kick in and accelerates almost normally, though a bit more slowly than it used to.
The problem seems better if I make sure to rev the engine loudly when I first start it up and worse if the weather is damp or it has been raining since I last drove. After a few minutes of driving, the problem has always gone away so far, but it is nerve-wracking to pull up to an intersection, stop, and then have trouble accelerating to get through it, especially when there is oncoming traffic on the cross street.
Does this sound like a problem with the idling, or am I experiencing the beginning of transmission trouble, or could it be something else? Is it likely to get worse over time?
So I've had my car for 3 years now. I've done an emissions delete, replaced maf, diverter valve, coolant temp sensor, thermostat, timing belt kit, fuel filter, air filter, starter and battery (for another issue) have a 3" DP and replaced the O2 when I did that, valve cover gasket, spark plugs, tested another n75 in my car.
The problem: the car sometimes has a really hard time starting when it it way below freezing. When it's around cold, at freezing or under the car will start fine. But the problem starts after I back out of my driveway and take the clutch out and put on the gas. When I try to accelerate the car will not accelerate. You can have your foot pressed to the floor and the car will act as it's stalling out and sputter but it actually won't stall because the call will keep driving and then all of a sudden power will come back and it will take off. The situation can be remedied by either pushing the clutch in. The car will idle no mall or if when the car is sputtering I can tap the gas quickly an it will build up speed and the problem will go away.
2003 1.8t gti ... Today when I got in my car...it fired up perfectly normal but when I got in it from leaving school it took 5min to fire up. The engine turned over but wouldn't fire all the time as if the spark plugs were bad. So I bought new NGK spark plugs and had the same issue just a little bit ago.
I know the obvious thing would be to change the ignition coils but they're out of stock everywhere so I have to have them shipped. My question is is the ignition coils the problem? They looked a bit worn but nothing serious.
My GA has been sluggishly starting for the last 3 days, usually the first start of the morning then fine the rest of the day. Today is the first day that it has done it during the day. I stopped at Advance Auto on way home and they ran a test on it. I'm attaching the results of it to get your feedback on the possibilities. The battery was replaced in March 2010, the alternator in November 2010.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2002 Prius that doesn't start properly, It takes about 3-10 tries, put key in , try and start, pull key out, repeat.
Brake pumps are working, 12 volt battery is 6 months old and has voltage. This behavior is only at after sitting all night, not during the day. Car has about 200k miles on it. No codes.
I have a 2003 Toyota Corolla with 90000 miles, that gets regular maintenance.
I've tried taking it to the dealership, but all they want to do is blindly follow their flowchart, making me spend lots of money in the process. Per their instruction, I've already replaced the battery, I've done a tune up, including spark plug replacement.
I think it's probably some sensor that is busted. The car has 90000 miles now (I bought it 3 years ago with 59000), and it didn't have this problem before. In the past, it wouldn't rev high. But now, the revs wont go back to normal unless you spend a good 10-15 minutes in park until it "warms up", even though this also occurs in the summer.
Generally though the car has run great. It just revs high when starting up in the morning.
For the last several days, every morning when I stepped on the brake the first time in the morning, there was a "ka-luck" sound. Then throughout the day, the brake had no such sound and behaved normally. Is the "ka-luck" sound normal and why it happens? Winter/Rain?
View 13 RepliesHave a 2008 Saturn - 30,000 miles. Most times it only starts in Neutral first time of day it is used. After this, fine. Had with dealer mechanics for 2 days and they say they can find nothing wrong. Can't do anything unless they have the problem.
View 3 RepliesIt's been like that for a a while now. Every morning the hybrid battery would run down to last bar. When I start the car it would be 3/4 full and it would keep draining even though I'm on flat road.
The overall mileage has not changed much but its annoying with the battery goes to last bar and there's no electric power to accelerate.