Sonata NF (2006-10) :: 2009 - Automatic Transmission Does Not Accelerate Smoothly When Starting Out From Idle
Apr 24, 2011
I have a 4 cylinder 2009 Sonata with an automatic transmission and it does not accelerate smoothly when starting out from idle. A slight touch on the accelerator pedal causes the motor to accelerate hard as though the pedal was pushed down a lot further than "a slight touch". Is this normal or should this car accelerate smoothly? I am wondering if there is a common problem with either the accelerator pedal sensor or maybe with the throttle servo.
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It seems like the first thing in the morning when I pull out of the driveway my car acts like it not accelerating smoothly. It's kinda jerky and seems like it takes a second to get the gas. I mean I know some cars are a little jerky after not being driven for a day or so but she is brand new, only a few months old.
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I have an 06 sonata 4 cyl automatic.Today the transmission was slipping in first gear like the car was revving in neutral.Then after restarting the car it was completely normal. Code P0731 showed up.
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I own a 06 sonata with 95000 miles. Recently I've been having issues with my transmission. It occurs only at slow speed when i travel in first gear. What happens is when the car is moving, it feels like it shifts into neutral but indicator still shows D in the cluster. I press the accelerator nothing happens it just revs,no increase in speed whatsoever.
So that rules out slipping issues. Now i narrowed the problem down a little more whenever the problem crops up i shift the gear lever into sports mode, i feel a jerk and car shifts into first gear and it moves. If i dont shift into sports mode it catches gear in about 7 seconds.No fault codes.
And if i rev it high transmission goes into limp mode and stays in 3rd gear till i restart the car.Then i get P0731 incorrect first ratio.Changed ATF 7000 miles ago. Could it be a faulty range sensor?
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1987 Acura Integra Automatic, 160k I have been noticing - mostly for every start (there are a few in between that did not have that sound).
When starting, a loud sound (some what unbearable) heard and was hesitant and then the engine starts. Once started it runs fine. It is not the usual sound that the ignition makes when going bad.
What seems to be the issue? Right after I drained and filled AT fluid, it heard the first time. I have been doing AT fluid since nearly 10yrs ago with Honda fluid. I only did drain and fill and it went smoothly. In 2007, the tranny was replaced. After starting, the car runs smoothly - it is only when starting or just before engine try to start. Batt and alternator tests fine.
It hardly did it today - I might have once heard a girding sound just before starting.
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Have a 2004 GMC 4x4 extended cab light-duty Sierra 2500 with about 40 K miles. When attempting to start and drive the pick-up after the pick-up has been parked for a few weeks, the vehicle has to idle for perhaps 1 minute before the automatic transmission will start the move the vehicle. Also have similar 1991 GMC pick-up that will engage almost immediately after starting the vehicle, despite having been parked for a similar length of time. Did not seem to notice on 2004 when the vehicle was new, but, has become more apparent during the last year. GMC maintenance and repair have no explanation. Once the 2004 is warmed-up and driven, no problem - the transmission kicks-in immediately; but, not after being parked for any extended length of time. So what gives here?
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I have 114,00 miles on my car. Plugs changed and decarbonization done at 99,000 as well as ECM reprogram or update ($99). Anyway, when my car sits overnight and starts it is getting a rough high idle until I feather the pedal or give it a minute or 2 and it is fine. It is warm now in the 70's and this just started. I had it to the dealer for oil change and they looked at it. There are no codes, they recommended changing the plugs and doing a decarb again. So I told them if I need plugs there is something wrong, Iridium OEM were installed.
Anyway, they suggested changing the throttle body since it has new sensors. I have have the TPS replaced before when engine was surging. They told me there are 2 sensors and one could be bad in throttle body. I don't get it, I use Hyundai air filter now and change every 15,000 miles and get oil changes regularly and they use Quaker State Synthetic blend. I am wondering if maybe I have a faulty PCV? I don't think that has been changed. Don't even know what the interval is. Previously I was told there was none, but I disagree.
What would cause me to get carbon build up like they keep telling me? I don't want trial and error and throw parts and money at it since there are no codes. I was going to drive it til it throws a code. I do highway driving in suburban area, mostly 65 mph. The car runs good, still the intermittent hard downshift when slowing down but nothing like before the tranny was replaced.
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I own a 2009 Kia Optima 2.4 Auto. My good friend and his wife own a 2009 Sonata 2.4 Auto. My car has around 40k and his has 50k. We both notice a very strange noise that started well over a year ago on both cars. After driving for a while, then you stop at a stop light or go through drive-thru, the transmissions BUZZ. If you put the car in Neutral or Park, the buzzing stops. Even if you put the car back in gear, it won't make the noise again until it decides to do it again. They both only do this when the transmission fluid is hot. Never does it when they are cool and have not been driven. Both cars have had the transmission fluid changed at 30k and this noise was mentioned to both dealers at the time. Both cars had transmission related TSB software updates done, but nothing changed as far as the noise. Neither car would buzz for either dealer, so they were no support. I just find this odd that it is BOTH cars. Of course they have the same engine and trans, I just wonder how many more folks have this odd ball noise. It really sounds like a power steering pump thats low on fluid. Fluid levels are perfect.
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I recently had the transmission fluid changed in my 2009 Sonata NF 4 cyl. Current mileage is 60,000 miles. Directly afterwards, the transmission started "sliding" into 4th gear from 3rd gear. I assume that fluid contamination has caused a clog somewhere in the transmission. I have had the tsb done on the car for the transmission and the fluid had been exchanged @ 30,000 miles prior to this service.
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I have an 09 Sonata that jerks when automatically down shifting just before coming to a stop or slowing to make sharp turn. Car has 130k miles and I've never changed transmission fluid. BTW...it's been a GREAT car!
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I have a 2009 Hyundai Sonata V6 3.3. I'm currently about to hit 65k miles. About 2 weeks ago i felt the transmission slipping while I was on the highway. Yesterday my check engine light came on. I took it to my mechanic; according to the reader, the Dampener Clutch System was the problem. This morning when I took the car out, I realized that the Check Engine light went away but still could feel the transmission slipping.
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I feel my 2009 Sonata with 25k miles has a fast startup idle.
It goes upto 2200 RPMs. It runs fine otherwise.
I will keep an eye on it to get more RPMs and timing.
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From time to time, and always unpredictably, the transmission acts up. When starting from a stop the car will not accelerate normally, putting me in jeopardy. Also, shifting automatically is a problem.
I tried shifting through the gears and got mixed and unacceptable shifting. Depressing the accelerator only increases the RPM, the speed hardly at all.
Is this a problem in the transmission or in some electrical control of the transmission?
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A couple months ago i posted that i had some choppy acceleration. I didn't do anything about it because I was looking for my vag-com cable but couldn't find it. well, i still haven't found it but my problem is getting worse. I have an older version of vag-com 303 and i think that it only supports serial.
Let me also describe my problem and what i have done so far to try and remedy it: basically, when i start to accel from a stop it doesn't accel smooth and feels like it is about to go limp and then all of a sudden i get this burst of accel. it is much more noticeable when accel from a stop but it is also noticeable when pressing the throttle, just does not accel smooth and once in a while, i get this sudden burst of power. And the car has gone into some kind of limp mode twice so far.
Once with my wife and just the other day when i was on the freeway, i lost all power and the EPC light came on and the ESP round arrow thingy. i pulled over, shut off the car and 30 sec later i was able to start driving again and all the lights went out, but of course, choppy accel still persists. the other day when i was accel i heard a POW from underneath. and my wife tells me she has heard it once before. when i remove the cable from the MAF everything goes back to normal. i cleaned the existing MAF, and when that did not work i replaced the MAF and still the same problem.
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I have a 1997 Honda Cr-V. Everything is great except, when I try to accelerate. From a stop, say, at a light, I cannot get it to accelerate smoothly. It feels like the engine gets bogged down. I almost have to feather the gas peddle just to get it to go. Once its gotten going and I am accelerating over about 15 or 20 mph everything it fine.
Also, when I've reached my intended speed and let go of the gas peddle, only to accelerate again, there is no problem.
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So the problem is that I have a jerky downshift 3-2 and 2-1 that can be felt by everyone in the car (car pushes forward on downshift) until the car warms up. When the car is warm I can feel it slightly at times and feel a clunk when shifting down 3-2 and 2-1. On up-shifts at times the shifts are shaky from 1-2 and 2-3. I have brought this forward to my dealership as well as another one. They all performed software updates and reset the adaptive learning. However every time I got my vehicle back after this procedure I found the A/C was on full blast. So the initial drive by the tech after the reset was learning while the A/C was on. Would this be causing the weird shifting I experience while the A/C is off. I seem to notice a better shifting when the A/C is on but this may just be me trying to reason why my transmission is behaving this way. I drove other 2015 Sonata's and they have much better shifting than my car and no hard jerks on downshifts.
Both dealers have felt the downshifts and have come back and simply said "We've done all the updates and reset and learning. This may just be a normal characteristic of the car." I told them that a brand new vehicle in this day and age shouldn't be shifting poorly when compared to an older vehicle with 300,000 km (my old Honda Civic which are prone to transmission failures). They responded casually saying you can go and get a second opinion from another dealership if you like. I am furious with their responses and just left it at that. I need to know how to get this resolved and if this is indeed something I should expect from my Sonata.
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What normal idle rpm is with a/c on with automatic transmission. Mine fluctuates between 680 to 710 with condenser fan on low and 900 when high speed condenser fan is on.
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I want to know if its possible to swap in the 5 speed automatic transmission from the corolla xrs to the 1.8 trying to get that extra gear and sequential shift mode , or how it could be done a 4speed to 5 speed manual swap?
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I have a 2009 Santa Fe (Automatic 3.3 v6 AWD). I have found the last few days (-20 C) where my gear shift will move into all gears (R, P, N and D) but the car wont move in Drive. R, N and P all work fine. It does seem as the car warms up everything's fine.
The light in the dash for D does not light up either when not working. What this might be?
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I have a 2011 F-150 with the center console shift lever. I mainly drive the truck during the day so it's possible I never notice this but do the gear indicators illuminate when the lights are on? I happened to look down when I put the truck in gear and noticed that the selector has a red light showing its position but it was really hard to see what gear you have selected.
Normally I just pull it down until I hit D, knowing it clicks 3 times, and I'm off. If you do happen to go into M then you see it on the dash. So I don't know if I've never noticed it or if I have a burned out bulb and its no longer lit up. It's not a big deal but I always like to replace burnt out dash lights just so it looks good but I don't know the answer to this one.
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I find it hard to smoothly accelerate from a stop with my V6 DSG. I have to be very careful how much pressure I apply to the gas to get a smooth take off...too easy to accelerate to fast or break the tires loose. Can this be reprogrammed?
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