Gmc :: 2004 - Lazy Automatic Transmission - Idles For A Minute Before Starting Up
Aug 30, 2012
Have a 2004 GMC 4x4 extended cab light-duty Sierra 2500 with about 40 K miles. When attempting to start and drive the pick-up after the pick-up has been parked for a few weeks, the vehicle has to idle for perhaps 1 minute before the automatic transmission will start the move the vehicle. Also have similar 1991 GMC pick-up that will engage almost immediately after starting the vehicle, despite having been parked for a similar length of time. Did not seem to notice on 2004 when the vehicle was new, but, has become more apparent during the last year. GMC maintenance and repair have no explanation. Once the 2004 is warmed-up and driven, no problem - the transmission kicks-in immediately; but, not after being parked for any extended length of time. So what gives here?
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We took our car in for a regular oil change and to get the 60K belt work done. While in the car they discovered that the transmission was slipping and that we were missing one of the motor mounts. They did the belt work and the oil change and then put some fluid in our car hoping that would buy us some time with our transmission. To save us time and money they said we could wait a little while on the motor mount. When I drove it home the whole car shifted and shook whenever we would come to a stop and then it would shake while idling. I called our mechanic back and they said to bring it in and that fixing the rear motor mount should take care of the problem. While back at the mechanic for the motor mount they discovered that the transmission additive had not worked and we needed a new one.
We bought a rebuilt one and now we are still left with a car that shakes when we are idling. We have had the car in two or three times after the transmission was put in for them to try and fix the issue. They have done everything short of removing the engine without any luck. Just to be sure they covered every possible angle, they just gave us new spark plugs, ignition wires, distributor rotor, distributor cap and PCV valve, but it didn't seem to do anything. The car shakes the most while idling in Drive, somewhat less in Park, somewhat less than that in Neutral and not at all in Reverse. The shaking gets even stronger if the A/C or defroster is turned on. It seems to be even worse when stopped on a downward slope. It has been several months of this and the shaking is incredibly annoying. Is there anything else our mechanic could look into?
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I have a 4 cylinder 2009 Sonata with an automatic transmission and it does not accelerate smoothly when starting out from idle. A slight touch on the accelerator pedal causes the motor to accelerate hard as though the pedal was pushed down a lot further than "a slight touch". Is this normal or should this car accelerate smoothly? I am wondering if there is a common problem with either the accelerator pedal sensor or maybe with the throttle servo.
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Every morning 1.8T idles high when warming up usually takes a minute or two to idle down. When your running late kind of annoying when I drive before idle goes down to normal brakes seem way to responsive and jerky...
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I have a question about smelling burning oil. I have a 2005 passat 1.8t (4 motion) with 80,000 miles. Once in a while I smell what smells to be burning oil. It usually happens when the car is warm and sits and idles for a min. like when you would be at a stop sign and doesn't last long. There doesn't seem to be any blue smoke coming from the exhaust either....
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I have a 2004 Explorer 4.0 4x4 with 130,00 miles that started with the transmission periodically going into neutral while driving and sometimes while stopped at an intersection. Engine running, but no reverse or drive gear. After shutting down engine and restarting, I can drive again only to have it happen soon again. I have changed rear speed sensor, throttle position sensor, dropped the tranny pan and changed the ATF as well as tranny filter.
I also attempted to replace the transmission range sensor but was unable to remove the nut that holds the shift level onto the sensor. Sent 5 hours one day.... nut will not budge. Now the shifter inside the truck does not feel the same when shifting through the gears. Now the transmission will only engage in reverse but the truck will not move. If I wait 30 sec or so the truck will move in reverse. No engagement in drive, 3rd, 2nd, or 1st.
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I have a 01 f150 with the 5.4. when it starts it takes a minute or two to do so.. After I shut it off and try to restart it won't unless I turn the key on and wait. I checked the pressure and when idling its running about 28 soon as the key is turned off it goes to 0. Is my pump bad??
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I have an 04 2.7 litre V6 AWD Santa Fe with 189235 KM , with a Shiftronic transmission, recently, while in "d", the transmission would feel like its slipping or perhaps trying to down shift, its hard to tell what it's doing really, but if you then slapped it over into shiftronic, it would operate fine, no slipping, locks into gear strongly, indicating that its not mechanical, but related to the computer controlling "drive" function of the transmission, I flushed the transmission just after the symptoms arrived (using the correct SP3 fluid) and this made no difference, the old fluid, although ready to be changed, was not burnt or blackend. I thought of getting it reflashed ( read it online) but I am not sure it will work, especially if its like a sensor or something.
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My check engine light has recently turned on in my 2004 hyundai elantra, and since it has come on my car will kick and sound like its going to stall, works but the automatic transmission refuses to shift. This inconsistent because it sometimes works fine with the light on and sometimes the light won't even turn on and everything is ok. What's wrong?
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When I start my Subaru 2001 Outback, it makes an awful sound. Not as much as a screech, but more like a loud grinding, and then it wanes and goes away after about a minute. Then when the car is warm, the sound is all about gone. It's been going on for a few weeks now and wasn't there before.
Listen to the audio file below.
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I am Hearing a series of 5 one second tones about 1 minute after starting. There is no indication on the dash that anything is wrong. There are five tones about one second long. They repeat five times and then stop. The truck appears to be running fine. What is this?
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Have a 2001 F150 5.4L Super Crew that hates temps below 50 degrees. It has new O2 sensors on the pass side banks, Map and Air charge temp sensors as well as a new IAC motor and a fuel pressure regulator. I've went though all the vacuum lines and replace the cracked dry ones as well a checked for vacuum leaks.
On initial start up, the truck will run and idle fine. after a minute or so, the rpm will fluctuate radically from 500 to 900 RPM. When driving, and you come to a stop sign, the engine will do the same almost seeming to stall. Once the engine reaches full operating temperature, then it runs fine. It always seems to throw P0171 / P0174 when it does this.
We've sprayed all around the intake and cannot find a leak anywhere. I do find it odd that this is a temperature related issue based on the engine operating temperature and the air temp in general. 50 degrees seems to be the turning point from running to just being a hand full until it warms up.
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My 2004 Accent transmission with 145k miles all of a sudden started slipping while driving. It would be fine until i needed to slow down and then step on the gas again. It wouldn't catch right and it would slip. At first the pull of the slip was very slight and at times now it is very rough. My check engine light does not turn on when it slips slightly, but only when it has a really rough slip will it turn on. I had it checked at the local advance auto parts and i was told it has a 4th gear ratio that is off. The only thing that confuses me is that when i turn the car off and on it resets and works fine, that is until it slips again. If i drive carefully it usually wont slip. Could it be an electrical problem?? I changed my speed sensor when my car had about 132k miles because it went out, i replaced my ignition coils, new spark plugs/wires, tranny oil change, and filter change.
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2004 6.0 Diesel. First the truck would die after starting, then start up again after a minute. Then the truck wouldn't start at all.
Trouble codes indicated low voltage on all injectors leading me to conclude a dead FICM. Replaced the power module in the FICM and reinstalled, but still no start.
48V at driver's side screw under the cover. 12V at the next screw, the next appears to be ground. The passenger side screw is 0V. One post indicated that should also be 48V - is the true?
I probed the power coming in - logic fuse is good. 50A fuse in the cab is good. Relay seems good.
The Ford FICM diagnostic indicates 12V power should be coming in on FICM connector X3 on pins 7, 8, 4, 23, 24, 25. I have 12V only on pins 7, 9, and 27. When I pull the relay I lose power on pin 27.
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The explorer has been having an issue starting after its warmed up. Starts perfectly fine when its cold. but sometimes when I drive, stop for 1-10 minutes, it takes a long time to get her to start up. Typically 30sec to 1 min of cranking. Doesn't seem to have any idle issues or issues running.
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Parked the truck last night and all was fine. Went to start the truck today and let it warm up before hooking up the trailer and it dies withing a minute. Go to start it again and nothing. End up killing batteries. Checked for codes and had a bogus EGR code P0404. Bogus because the tune I run doesn't have the EGR enabled and it is deleted. Still plugged in though.
Hooked up dual battery chargers and sent the boy to pick up fuel and oil filters and oil. It was over due in both areas. Changed both and still no love. So I drag out the laptop and set up my AE to monitor FLP, FLM, IPR, ICP, ICV, Sync.
KOEO
FLP 11.00
FLM 47.0
ICP 0
ICV .24
IPR 14.25 odd right?
Synch 0
Cranking
FLP 9.6
FLM 47.0
ICP 800-1600 varied the longer I cranked
ICV 2.2
IPR 14.24
Synch 1
still no start.
Still no codes.
I then cycled the IPR through AE a few times and turned the key. Damn thing fired right up.
Idling
FLP 11.0
FLM 47.0
ICP 875
ICV 1.4ish
IPR 26.4
Synch 1
I pushed the RPMs up to 2500
FLP 11.0
FLM 47.0
ICP 2200 iirc
ICV 2.24
IPR 42.0ish
Synch 1
Turned the truck off and restarted it a few times. No issues. Turned it off and pulled the positive cables and put the chargers back on it.
So the question is .....Is the IPR sticking on me? I just replaced the HPOP in the spring along with the up pipes. Made sure everything was clean. I actuated the IPR and cleaned it out. Put a new screen on it had zero leaks.
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I have an 04 F350 automatic blowing fluid out under load only. Had it serviced the first time it happened two weeks ago. They found no issues and replaced the fluid and filters. Drove truck about fifty miles, no load, no problems. Took her out this morning in tow/haul mode with load and made it about 20 minutes before I noticed it warming up. Pulled over and it is blowing fluid out the right side of the pan.
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From time to time, and always unpredictably, the transmission acts up. When starting from a stop the car will not accelerate normally, putting me in jeopardy. Also, shifting automatically is a problem.
I tried shifting through the gears and got mixed and unacceptable shifting. Depressing the accelerator only increases the RPM, the speed hardly at all.
Is this a problem in the transmission or in some electrical control of the transmission?
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Have a very high pitched squeal on cold starts as well as when idle occasionally.
Bad compressor?
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My high mileage V6 1999 Sierra starts fine and runs great in the morning or when it is cold. As soon a you try to restart hot is spins fast enough, but has a very hard time starting. When it does start, there is smoke from the gas and the engine idles very high for about 10 minutes before settling down. Same thing reoccurs over and over when the engine is hot. May idle up to 2500 rpm, cant kick it off.
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I don't know what is wrong with this car, I have put in new titanium plugs, new plug wires, new fuel filter, new air filter, changed the oil, I burn mid-grade gas. The car starts right up when cold, however once it warms up it idles on a non regular number, dies when driving and is very hard to start. I get lousy mileage and it smells like it is either not getting enough gas or not getting enough air. I don't know what else to do. I had it analyzed with an electric analyzer, no codes were found. When the plugs were put in the air flow sensor had either gas or oil on it. It does not use any oil.
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