The explorer has been having an issue starting after its warmed up. Starts perfectly fine when its cold. but sometimes when I drive, stop for 1-10 minutes, it takes a long time to get her to start up. Typically 30sec to 1 min of cranking. Doesn't seem to have any idle issues or issues running.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2002 Camry LE V6 with 189K on it and noticed that it takes several seconds (4 to 5 seconds) of cranking before the car starts. When the car was newer, it used to crank quicker.
Here is what I have done so far:
- Changed all spark plugs @ dealer using iridium type
- Always used Premium Fuel (Petro Canada 91 grade)
- Put in a bottle of injector cleaner (Redline Complete Fuel System Cleaner)
- Throttle Body has been cleaned about 20K ago
- Oil changes are Mobil 1 5W30 year round with Denso Filter
- Battery was replaced last year with an Optima Red Top and was tested a few months back to be in excellent working order.
What I have observed is that when the weather is VERY cold outside (i.e. -20), it seems to crank quicker, but if I keep my car parked in my garage overnight and start it, it takes several seconds. I have never had the car not start on me so that's a good thing.
I have a 2000 Accent with 90k miles. The last week or two, it takes about 5- 6 seconds of cranking to start when the engine is cold. Having had the car since new, I know that it's not normal.
The engine seems to crank strongly, and once started idles and drives well. This occurs once about every 4 starts when engine cold. Warm engine starts normal.
Changed plugs - no difference. Maintenance current per owners manual schedule.
A friend of mine have a 94' Explorer with the 4.0 v6. Fuel pump starts for 2-3 sec when i turn the key, stops when cranking and starts again when i stop cranking. i checked the fuel shutoff switch and it was ok, and it have spark.
View 3 RepliesOn the wifes Santa Fe 2.4 AWD every few starts it seems to crank over longer than it should. It will usually crank right up like it is supposed to. Every few times it may take 3-4 seconds of cranking before it will fire.
The car runs great, averages over 30mpg per the computer. No codes. I don't have a clue what it could be.
I have a 01 f150 with the 5.4. when it starts it takes a minute or two to do so.. After I shut it off and try to restart it won't unless I turn the key on and wait. I checked the pressure and when idling its running about 28 soon as the key is turned off it goes to 0. Is my pump bad??
View 8 RepliesI am Hearing a series of 5 one second tones about 1 minute after starting. There is no indication on the dash that anything is wrong. There are five tones about one second long. They repeat five times and then stop. The truck appears to be running fine. What is this?
View 1 RepliesHave a 2001 F150 5.4L Super Crew that hates temps below 50 degrees. It has new O2 sensors on the pass side banks, Map and Air charge temp sensors as well as a new IAC motor and a fuel pressure regulator. I've went though all the vacuum lines and replace the cracked dry ones as well a checked for vacuum leaks.
On initial start up, the truck will run and idle fine. after a minute or so, the rpm will fluctuate radically from 500 to 900 RPM. When driving, and you come to a stop sign, the engine will do the same almost seeming to stall. Once the engine reaches full operating temperature, then it runs fine. It always seems to throw P0171 / P0174 when it does this.
We've sprayed all around the intake and cannot find a leak anywhere. I do find it odd that this is a temperature related issue based on the engine operating temperature and the air temp in general. 50 degrees seems to be the turning point from running to just being a hand full until it warms up.
2004 6.0 Diesel. First the truck would die after starting, then start up again after a minute. Then the truck wouldn't start at all.
Trouble codes indicated low voltage on all injectors leading me to conclude a dead FICM. Replaced the power module in the FICM and reinstalled, but still no start.
48V at driver's side screw under the cover. 12V at the next screw, the next appears to be ground. The passenger side screw is 0V. One post indicated that should also be 48V - is the true?
I probed the power coming in - logic fuse is good. 50A fuse in the cab is good. Relay seems good.
The Ford FICM diagnostic indicates 12V power should be coming in on FICM connector X3 on pins 7, 8, 4, 23, 24, 25. I have 12V only on pins 7, 9, and 27. When I pull the relay I lose power on pin 27.
Parked the truck last night and all was fine. Went to start the truck today and let it warm up before hooking up the trailer and it dies withing a minute. Go to start it again and nothing. End up killing batteries. Checked for codes and had a bogus EGR code P0404. Bogus because the tune I run doesn't have the EGR enabled and it is deleted. Still plugged in though.
Hooked up dual battery chargers and sent the boy to pick up fuel and oil filters and oil. It was over due in both areas. Changed both and still no love. So I drag out the laptop and set up my AE to monitor FLP, FLM, IPR, ICP, ICV, Sync.
KOEO
FLP 11.00
FLM 47.0
ICP 0
ICV .24
IPR 14.25 odd right?
Synch 0
Cranking
FLP 9.6
FLM 47.0
ICP 800-1600 varied the longer I cranked
ICV 2.2
IPR 14.24
Synch 1
still no start.
Still no codes.
I then cycled the IPR through AE a few times and turned the key. Damn thing fired right up.
Idling
FLP 11.0
FLM 47.0
ICP 875
ICV 1.4ish
IPR 26.4
Synch 1
I pushed the RPMs up to 2500
FLP 11.0
FLM 47.0
ICP 2200 iirc
ICV 2.24
IPR 42.0ish
Synch 1
Turned the truck off and restarted it a few times. No issues. Turned it off and pulled the positive cables and put the chargers back on it.
So the question is .....Is the IPR sticking on me? I just replaced the HPOP in the spring along with the up pipes. Made sure everything was clean. I actuated the IPR and cleaned it out. Put a new screen on it had zero leaks.
Got a 2013 F-150 with a start problem after warm. If I let it sit with battery disconnected it will start up. When it will not start it acts like a no spark issue.
View 1 RepliesWhy doesn't my 98 Ford Crown Vic Police package turn over when it is hot outside and the car is hot? Winter time, I never have the issue. When the outside temp hits the upper 70s or more, and I drive for a little bit, turn the car off it will not start or even turn over. The lights come on like normal. I wait 15-30 minutes, it fires right up. I have replaced the starter/solenoid, battery, battery terminals, ignition relay.
98 crown vic police-4.6 liter Coil-on-plug,electronic timing,182,000 miles
I have an 04 ford 6.0. It is an 03 model. It has 165xxx miles. It fires right up cold but, once warmed up it will crank but not even try to start. A little starting fluid and it will fire right up. I sent the FICM in and had it tested and it is good. I put in new 850CCA batteries and a 185 amp alternator so my voltage is good. I changed the fuel filter and the oil/oil filter, synthetic 5w-30. It isn't throwing any codes. I am really hoping it's not the HPOP but, think it's probably that or related to it.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2005 F-150. Recently, I have heard an alarm like tone for five seconds or so after cranking up. Often, this sounds immediately after cranking up but sometimes, it happens a few minutes after cranking up. There is no light that accompanies it on the instrument panel and the sound stops after sounding for a few seconds and does not recur until the engine is started another time. What this might be?
View 3 RepliesIt was -35 degrees Celsius (-31 Fahrenheit) this morning. My Prius v was parked in the driveway. When I started my car the engine produced a grinding sound. The sound lasted between 30 seconds to a minute, then it went away. I was able to capture this in a video:
I have an inclined driveway, I'm not sure if this matters or not.
I am a longtime 7.3 IDI guy with an 88 F350 crew so i know about diesels. But this is my first electronic diesel. I picked up a 2001 F450 2wd auto 260k miles. it used to be my work's truck but was stitting for a year and now i got it in "non running condition"
I towed it home and got it started by replacing the batteries and using the block heater.
As expected it took a few tries of long cranking to run the first time. runs pretty good and no smoke. what surprised me is it still takes about 5 sec of cranking to restart each time when warm too. any direction you would look with those symptoms? HPOP, IPR?
i am pretty sure the glow plugs all work because mechanics had replaced all that stuff. but i know back when the truck was last used it would still never start cold unless plugged in (even in summer).
1996 f150 sometimes it starts sometimes it don't. It is cranking over the starter is in gauging as well as the fuel pump I can hear it.... It's getting spark and I replaced the starter solenoid.
View 5 RepliesI'm having a slow start issue with my 2008 Explorer Sport trac. Recently it's received a brand new fuel pump, a new fuel pump driver, new spark plugs and ignition coils! And it still hasn't fixed the problem, what's happening is when I start the truck after its hot, there's somewhat of a delay. As if it's starving for fuel, however, in the mornings on its first start or after a shift at work it starts just fine on the first start which prompted me to now think I'm having vapor lock! Gas cap is brand new too. I had the fuel injectors tested and they all seem fine, I'm at a complete loss.
It's killing me and as one can imagine I have spent a lot in parts and at this point in my life I have had to pay for labor instead of my usual DIY because I recently had major back surgery due to being hit by a big rig in December of last and pushed into the rear of an F350 while I was at a complete stop and the rig was doing about 40 mph. Been suffering ever since with constant doc visits, surgeries and so one to correct the issues. I'm tired of shelling out money with no solution, I had a solution I thought but apparently I was wrong. I'm going to change all relays that I think may affect the area....
I have a 2007 GS350 AWD with about 110,000 miles right now. For almost the last year or so it has been burning off some oil. By the time its up for an oil change, it occasionally gives me the engine oil low light. It stays on between a few seconds to a minute and then turns off.
I've been telling this to the local Lexus dealership where i've had all my maintenance done, and they eventually did an oil consumption test. They said it was losing about 1.5 liters after 3,000 miles. They say that is within spec.
This issue came up several times while i was still in my 100,000 mile warranty, but they wouldn't do anything as it was in spec. I don't see how i should get a low engine light warning every 3-4k miles and have been pushing them to do something and cover under warranty since it has been documented as an issue before the warranty ran out. Lexus corporate asked for a compression test (which i had to pay for), the results are below:
Cyc#1: 205 dry; 225 wet
Cyc#2: 200 dry; 215 wet
Cyc#3: 190 dry; 215 wet
Cyc#4: 200 dry; 225 wet
Cyc#5: 205 dry; 210 wet
Cyc#6: 190 dry; 220 wet
After Lexus received the results they asked for, they still said: well the oil consumption is in spec so won't do anything.
Noticing a somewhat regular sort of light tapping noise from Subaru CVT Outback, when slowing to stop or starting out?
Some days it's noticeable only for about a second after the clunk from shifting, often you can hear it a bit longer.
You can hear it best at about 1 min, and last 40 seconds of this short trip audio-clip.
I recently did the following work:
New Injectors
New T500 Hpop
New IPR
New ICP Sensor
New UVCH/Glowplugs
New starter
Been cranking about 15-30 seconds each time about a dozen times now. I've pulled the icp and the hp crossover and have oil flowing at each.
ICP builds to about 240 psi and at a 98% duty cycle....so I assume there's still some air in the system. I"m not getting any sense that the engine is trying to hit. Do i just keep cranking?