I have a 01 f150 with the 5.4. when it starts it takes a minute or two to do so.. After I shut it off and try to restart it won't unless I turn the key on and wait. I checked the pressure and when idling its running about 28 soon as the key is turned off it goes to 0. Is my pump bad??
View 8 RepliesI am Hearing a series of 5 one second tones about 1 minute after starting. There is no indication on the dash that anything is wrong. There are five tones about one second long. They repeat five times and then stop. The truck appears to be running fine. What is this?
View 1 RepliesHave a 2001 F150 5.4L Super Crew that hates temps below 50 degrees. It has new O2 sensors on the pass side banks, Map and Air charge temp sensors as well as a new IAC motor and a fuel pressure regulator. I've went though all the vacuum lines and replace the cracked dry ones as well a checked for vacuum leaks.
On initial start up, the truck will run and idle fine. after a minute or so, the rpm will fluctuate radically from 500 to 900 RPM. When driving, and you come to a stop sign, the engine will do the same almost seeming to stall. Once the engine reaches full operating temperature, then it runs fine. It always seems to throw P0171 / P0174 when it does this.
We've sprayed all around the intake and cannot find a leak anywhere. I do find it odd that this is a temperature related issue based on the engine operating temperature and the air temp in general. 50 degrees seems to be the turning point from running to just being a hand full until it warms up.
2001 F150 4.6 V8 Triton
Automatic
Battery Tests Good
Starter Tests Good - I saw it spin and come out at the testing station at Autozone
Ignition Relay (the one in the fusebox)- New (8mo.)
Switch on the firewall on passenger side of truck - New (8mo.)
Battery terminals/connectors - Tight, no movement, Cleaned within the last week.
Starter connections - cleaned within the last week.
I am having trouble with my truck not starting. The issue has been occurring on and off for over a year. Usually, it happens about once a month, regardless of weather.
I turn the key, and there is one click. Usually at this point, I can use one hand to gently pull the shifter "up" towards park and turn the key again and it will start. Recently it is not starting when I do this. I have tried many times, and have tried to start it in Neutral (is that even possible with an Automatic?).
With the key in the "ON" position, I go under the truck and jump the starter cellinoid. I am jumping the small post to the big post where th wire comes from the battery. I do not touch the post that the wire goes into the starter.
I am very confused because it starts just fine without fail and almost instantly when I jump the posts. It is drive-able this way, but I would like to resolve this issue, and resume using my key to start it since the issue doesn't seem to be resolving itself as it usually does.
A friend told me about the Ignition Starter Switch inside the Column. If I have time I will attempt to start the truck with a screw driver on the switch tonight to narrow down the issue.
After replacing the battery and starter...as well as replacing the alternator (bench tested good), I'm still greeted with one 'thud' when attempting to turn the engine over. The battery light is one in the dash. I've been through this scenario with more than a couple vehicles that haven't started in the past. I do the normal check the battery, wires, alternator, fuses, and starter. Somewhere along that line...it always fixes the issue. Not so here. I have to admit that I'm at a loss at the moment.
2001 F-150 5.4L
115k
Replaced starter
Replaced batter
Alternator bench tested good
I have a 1999 F150 Lariat 5.4 that's been sitting for a few weeks waiting for a new MAF. Finally got a MAF from a junkyard (out of an 01 Expedition) and installed it.
Turned the key, cranks once, then I hear a loud click and then just continuous clicking. I did some research and people are saying this is just the starter solenoid and that the battery may be dead. I charged the battery a couple hours and waited until it showed 11.some volts, tried to start it again, didn't even turn over, just clicking. I also noticed the theft light blinking rapidly, but if it were the PATS acting up, wouldn't the motor at least turnover?
So I went back to charging the battery. Went out a couple hours later (at night), and when I opened the door, none of the lights came on. Then I hear a click, the lights come on, followed by another click, and the lights went off. This happens each time I open and close the door. So did I potentially pop a fuse? Or is my battery just fried? Would replacing the MAF with the newer one out of the expedition cause any weird issue? I doubt it, but anything is possible at this point I guess.
My 1997 ford f150 4.6 triton runs hot after 1 minute of idling. I changed the two coolant sensors, flushed the radiator, and changed the thermostat. I also went to have a diagnostic done at two different places and nether one could get a reading....
View 14 RepliesMy 2000 f150 with a 4.6 and just about 200,000 miles stumbled for a minute then died, no engine light came on. It wanted to restart and almost did a couple time's but no go. which leads me to believe it has spark. after about a 30min cool down it started and ran fine like nothing ever happened. Got me home. then the next day same thing died and started after it cooled. Has done this a few time's.
I had put a cheap O'riely fuel pump in it a couple years ago. but i hear if you run your gas tank low on gas a lot (which I do) the pump can get hot and you can toast it. Does the fuel pump is the issue or could i have another problem. And BTW in the past year I have cleaned the EGR port's on the throttle body, put a new egr valve, and fuel filter. And i checked the fuel pressure to had 40...
I have a 99 F150 Lariat 4x4 with a 5.4, 150,000 mile on it. About 2 weeks ago I blew spark plug out on #2, and a friend who said he has heli-coiled a bunch of these tried to do mine and ruined the head. Anyway, I called a local engine shop and got another PI head, only I used my cam in it. Torqued it as per the book, etc... Mind you that the engine ran perfect before all this.
Got it back together with all new plugs, new exhaust manifold, and 2 new COP's. When I start it-it runs rough for about a min, then straightens back out to run perfect again, and after a few seconds you can hear a solenoid click, then it goes back to missing again. This goes on and on... I went through all the vacuum lines and checked them, checked the egr valve, put on a new IAC, new PVC, cleaned the MAF, and checked everything else with a DVM.
I took it out and drove it.... Runs good for a minute, then it goes back to missing, then back to smooth again. This just keeps going on and on. I noticed when I hear that click, it sounds like a mad rush of air being sucked in, but I cannot locate it. I ordered a new set of COP's to try next. I can understand if it just plain missed all the time, but this it intermittent. Also, the only code I can get is a too lean on bank 1, so I replaced the 90's and the pvc valve. Now no codes but still in and out of missing. It ran perfect before the new head.
2003 F150 5.4L Tow Package 140k miles... Had coils, all plugs/wires replaced two years ago due to vibe climbing hills. Now at startup in the morning for a minute or two during idle, the engine vibrates severely then subsides and runs fine rest of day. Doesn't do this every morning. Truck lives in FL. The issue is either temperature related or moisture related. Ford service has the truck presently and attempting to diagnose from an overnight stay. They already 'fixed' the problem last week by replacing #1 plug/wire and resetting the power control module (pcm) but two days later the problem came back. Tech said today that the plugs currently installed are Bosch (any issue with these plugs?)
2003 F150 5.4L 140k miles
2011 Expy 5.4L 44k miles
2004 6.0 Diesel. First the truck would die after starting, then start up again after a minute. Then the truck wouldn't start at all.
Trouble codes indicated low voltage on all injectors leading me to conclude a dead FICM. Replaced the power module in the FICM and reinstalled, but still no start.
48V at driver's side screw under the cover. 12V at the next screw, the next appears to be ground. The passenger side screw is 0V. One post indicated that should also be 48V - is the true?
I probed the power coming in - logic fuse is good. 50A fuse in the cab is good. Relay seems good.
The Ford FICM diagnostic indicates 12V power should be coming in on FICM connector X3 on pins 7, 8, 4, 23, 24, 25. I have 12V only on pins 7, 9, and 27. When I pull the relay I lose power on pin 27.
The explorer has been having an issue starting after its warmed up. Starts perfectly fine when its cold. but sometimes when I drive, stop for 1-10 minutes, it takes a long time to get her to start up. Typically 30sec to 1 min of cranking. Doesn't seem to have any idle issues or issues running.
View 2 RepliesParked the truck last night and all was fine. Went to start the truck today and let it warm up before hooking up the trailer and it dies withing a minute. Go to start it again and nothing. End up killing batteries. Checked for codes and had a bogus EGR code P0404. Bogus because the tune I run doesn't have the EGR enabled and it is deleted. Still plugged in though.
Hooked up dual battery chargers and sent the boy to pick up fuel and oil filters and oil. It was over due in both areas. Changed both and still no love. So I drag out the laptop and set up my AE to monitor FLP, FLM, IPR, ICP, ICV, Sync.
KOEO
FLP 11.00
FLM 47.0
ICP 0
ICV .24
IPR 14.25 odd right?
Synch 0
Cranking
FLP 9.6
FLM 47.0
ICP 800-1600 varied the longer I cranked
ICV 2.2
IPR 14.24
Synch 1
still no start.
Still no codes.
I then cycled the IPR through AE a few times and turned the key. Damn thing fired right up.
Idling
FLP 11.0
FLM 47.0
ICP 875
ICV 1.4ish
IPR 26.4
Synch 1
I pushed the RPMs up to 2500
FLP 11.0
FLM 47.0
ICP 2200 iirc
ICV 2.24
IPR 42.0ish
Synch 1
Turned the truck off and restarted it a few times. No issues. Turned it off and pulled the positive cables and put the chargers back on it.
So the question is .....Is the IPR sticking on me? I just replaced the HPOP in the spring along with the up pipes. Made sure everything was clean. I actuated the IPR and cleaned it out. Put a new screen on it had zero leaks.
2003 F150 4.2L V-6. Cranked ok but no start, no check engine light. Plenty spark and could hear fuel pump running. Thought it might be out of fuel but gauge showed over 1/4 tank . Added ~2 Gals fuel anyway, started immediately- no check engine light, no codes set. Thought- bad gauge sending unit. Dropped tank and found plenty of fuel and sending unit checks good. New pump on order but what else could cause the problem?
View 7 RepliesMy 2002 F150 Screw has been giving me issues when trying to start it for the last month. Sometimes it will start sometimes it won't. When I turn the ignition on the gauges all seem normal, the theft light turns solid then goes out, but engine will turn over but not start. Sometimes it will start if I leave the ignition on for 20 seconds then pull the key and try again. (this doesn't always work). I have disconnected the battery for about 2 minutes this usually works but not always.
Sometimes it will start first time with no issues. Once the the engine fires it runs fine. Another symptom is when I shut the engine off, pull the key and open the door, the chime telling me that the key is still in the ignition sounds. (but the key is in my hand)
I put a new battery in yesterday to rule that out and because the old one seemed to be getting weak. (starting issues didn't go away). I don't want to put 300+ into a fuel pump without being sure that's the problem.
Just picked up a 1999 F-150 XL, 4.2L V6, 5-Speed. Spent half the day rewiring the headlights back to factory as a previous owner did a bunch of wiring that made absolutely no sense. (Foglights or KC lights?). Anyway, works great with the exception that the headlights turn on when I turn the selector to just parking lights. I removed all but the factory wires under the hood. I haven't been behind the dash yet to check the headlight switch and I was hoping to avoid doing so. A fuse or relay that may be causing the issue? I don't have a service manual yet so I haven't been able to identify all the fuses under the hood.
View 2 RepliesBeen awhile since I've been on here...guess that's a good thing! Current problem...about a week ago my car stalled after starting it. I had been running errands all day so the engine was warm. Started fine, and then slowly died. My husband replaced the IAC valve. (My truck had this same problem 3 1/2 years ago...it was the IAC).
After replacing this time, it seemed to be fine. However today, again after running errands, the engine stalled slowly after I had started the engine. It seemed like it was trying to stay running, but then just slowly died. I tried starting again and it stayed running, so I was able to get home. It seemed to run fine while driving home. Also, no engine light has come on. Wondering what could be causing this. Don't want to get stranded somewhere.
I have a squeal that I am pretty sure is coming from somewhere in the A/C compressor/pulley assembly. The trucks squeals on start up (more so when it is cold/damp outside) and then sometimes as I am driving. It doesn't matter if the a/c is on or off. I have also noticed that, while driving, the squeal occurs when I take my foot off the gas. At this point I have replaced the belt, the tensioner and the a/c pulley. I am about to change out the shims to see if that works, but also was wondering if it is possible for the clutch hub to wear down and go bad.
View 14 Replies1996 f150 sometimes it starts sometimes it don't. It is cranking over the starter is in gauging as well as the fuel pump I can hear it.... It's getting spark and I replaced the starter solenoid.
View 5 RepliesMy 3rd gear is starting to slip, Is there a chance that it might be a small fix ? if so how or what can I do? 2003 F150 4x4 Automatic ...
View 1 RepliesHave a 1999 f150 replaced tranny. truck started out ok for first 10 miles now it putters when starting from stand still can not figure it out.
View 3 Replies