Honda :: 1991 - Key Won't Come Out Of Ignition After Engine Turned Off When Cold
May 26, 2012
I have a 1991 Honda that has a quirk which is driving me nuts. When I turn off the engine, the key won't readily come out. It's especially difficult when the temperature is below 40 degree's. I've replaced the key at a Honda dealer, which my mechanic suggested, but to no avail. I shake the gear shifter repeatedly which doesn't seem to work. I sprayed lubricant into the key hole. It's frustrating to have to sit and wait a couple of minutes to exit my car.
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Several months ago some kind of sensor was replaced on my 1991 Honda Accord. This was the case where the fan would sometimes go on after the engine was turned off. And to turn off the fan it was sometimes necessary to turn on the ignition.
What led up to all this was that one time I was driving up a fairly steep incline to a park. When I turned the engine off that is when the fan turned itself on.
Well, I drove up to that park the other day and the same thing happened (after the whatever was replaced). One thing different though, I did detect a faint whiff of what smelled like burning rubber when I exited the car (to check on the fan).
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I have a 1991 Honda Accord with 250, 000 miles on the odometer.
It has happened a couple times in the past 2 months when the engine fan turns itself on after the ignition has been turned off. The latest incident was a couple days ago when the fan repeatedly turned itself on and off. I discovered by turning on the ignition to the first click would stop this. Engine temperature gauge shows engine operating temperature to be well within normal limits.
Question: why is this happening?
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My car ( civic 1.5 dx duel injected) just cut off while I was going down the free pay like the key had been turned off. Now it turns but won't crank. I am getting spark from my plugs, my fuel pump still works, i think my injectors are ok, when I took off the air box I can see fuel going into the throttle body, my throttle isn't stuck, diaphragm seems to have a seal. I took the head cover off and there isn't any fuel/oil in the valves. What could it be? After I put the plugs/cap/head cover back on it cranked for a second then idled down and back to no start.
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I have a 1991 Honda Civic DX and it is doing something I can't explain. Randomly the car will not even try to turn over. The ignition switch will click, the dash lights come on... but not even the slightest peep from the starter motor. If I put the vehicle in fifth gear and roll it, turning the engine over even half a rotation, the engine will fire right up.
It started on a road trip and happened very sparsely, but has since become more common. What used to be 1 out of 20 is now maybe 1 out of 4 chance it doesn't start. Every now and then it will go days without any problems, then seemingly randomly the ignition fails again for spurts. I replaced the distributor cap, plugs, and rotor about 2 months ago. The ignition switch appears to be fine....
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On cold mornings here in California, like most older cars with high mileage, it makes some ticking/valve sounds until I fully warm up my car after a mile or two of driving. At that point, the sounds disappear.
I've noticed that if I blip the ignition or turn over the engine without starting the car, when starting up on cold mornings, it doesn't make valve lash noise or ticking when I pull out of the garage.
I chalk it up to the fact that I "threw" some oil on top the head before starting up the engine fully. I've only done this maybe 5 times since I found out.
Car: 99 Civic w/ 217k+ miles.
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My '91 240 races when turned on when motor cold, colder it is the moreso, especially in Park and Neutral till it calms down It's happening under 60 degrees Fahrenheit and big time under 32. Sometimes turning steering wheel sharply will stop this. Is this ECU? Transmission? Belts? There seems too show excess transmission fluid on the dipstick, by the way lately, which may have been that way from accidental overfill and may not be related t this insane racing issue.)
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Ok my car is not starting. It is not turning over when you turn the key and push in the clutch. I can here a relay click under the drivers side dash. I can push start it and it runs great, sometimes it will start and run fine but it is a frequent problem now. What could be causing me these problems. 1991 Honda Civic DX ....
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Yesterday I went out for a few errands, but noticed the car was a little sluggish when starting. So, when I got home, after I turned off the ignition, I tried to start the car again. Just clicking and then nothing. Did that a few times and then just gave up. This morning I decided to try again. At first, just clicking, but then I started to pump the gas pedal and it started fine. I want to have it checked, but what to expect at the repair shop.
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I have a 1991 Honda Accord with 280k miles on it.
Question: what would be reasons the engine dies when in operation? I had not noticed anything wrong with the car other than I noticed it may take the automatic transmission a little longer time to shift gears.
While I was on the road, i felt something happening under the hood and noticed the car was losing power. the battery and oil level lights went on and needed to pull the car to the side of the road for obvious reason!
The car was towed back to my house. During the ride back the guy who was towing the car said that the engine turned over when he turned on the ignition.
I did the same thing when I got home and the car started up just fine. Nothing else noticed. The oil level was at normal level. I drove the car a couple times around the block.
The engine is due for a tune up and there sometimes is some vibration. This car has been very reliable. But I obviously can not have situation where the engine dies when on the road!
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My 2005 Nissan Altima has been fairly reliable up until the past two years, as it seems several aspects of the cars performance are starting to decline rapidly. I recently changed a headlight bulb, and upon reconnecting the battery, the engine refused to turn over and catch when I turned the ignition. After several tries, the car started and I noticed the check engine light has come on. I took it to AutoZone to get a read out, and the told me that I got two error codes: one for crankshaft position sensor and one for engine speed sensor. It's been a while since I got the readout, and I lost the paper with that I wrote the codes on, but I think the codes may have been P0335 for the crankshaft position sensor and P0725 for the engine speed sensor.
I changed the crankshaft position sensor and camshaft position sensors on my car, and the problem changed from a major problem to a moderate problem. The car performance now:
1) The check engine light is still on
2) When starting my car, I turn the ignition to connect the battery, wait a few seconds, turn to start the engine, and it takes about 3 turnover attempts before the engine catches and the car starts (inserting the key and turning it straight over to try and turn on the car often results in turnover attempts with no start).
3) When driving, the car now shifts hard at times and seems to be changing gears at higher RPMs than expected.
4) When going up a steep incline, as I press on the gas, the car RPMs go up but the car does not accelerate like it used to. It eventually shifts very hard into the lower gear and then I can accelerate up the incline at a much higher RPM rate than expected
I was reading wear these issues may be caused by a clogged fuel system, but I wanted to check with some of you guys to see what you think it may be before I go trying a fix on anything.
In terms of car care, I would say I'm fairly responsible. I get the oil changed regularly, and have always gotten scheduled maintenance taken care of as well as any maintenance at the recommendations of the mechanics I trust.
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What is wrong with my Passat: once a week my car fails to start. When clutch is pressed and ignition key is turned I can hear relay under dash is clicking and nothing happening. It does not sound to me as starter (I hope). After a few seconds and few attempts car starts normally. I checked which relay is clicking and it was Relay # 53 (starting interlock relay), which linked to a clutch switch. Replaced this relay and after a week problem repeated.
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My 2003 Toyota Camry LE has been running fine. Recently I parked the car somewhere for about 5 minutes and when I returned the car would not start, i.e. when I turned the key in the ignition the engine would not engage. I called the tow truck. The tow truck driver takes a look and tells me that she can hear the engine trying to kick in. She thinks the battery is fine, the alternator is fine etc. etc. So she pops the hood, takes a long metal rod, places it on the starter and gives it a couple of gentle taps. Then she asks me to start the car. I do and it works. She tells me that the starter was stuck and that what she did freed it up.
The car runs okay now but I am concerned as to whether this could be a sign of things to come. Should I take my car in the get the starter looked at or maybe replaced? The dealer says that a new starter will run me 350 bucks but also said that I don't need to come in unless it happens again. What does the community think? Do I have a problem or was it a one off thing that I can ignore for now? And I don't know if its important or not but the weather here has been starting to get colder lately. Could that be responsible in any way? I have about 81000 miles on this car.
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Yesterday after I turned off my car I got out and saw that the car was still running. This lasted a minute or so that seemed like an hour or so. I got back in the car, turned the key to start it again, and then turned it off and it stayed off. What could cause that in a 1997 honda accord ex.
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2002 F350 7.3 PSD. 192k miles.
From my understanding, a CEL is supposed to illuminate each time you turn the ignition ON as part of normal startup procedure.
I figured the previous owner must have pulled out the bulb to hide the fact that the truck had a few "issues" before selling it, so today I pulled out the gauge cluster and it looked as if the CEL bulb was a tiny LED soldered directly into the gauge cluster itself. There were a few serviceable/removable bulbs for things like turn signal indicators, high-beam etc... but the CEL did not have a serviceable/removable bulb.
I've been driving this truck and working through it's "issues" and fixing things as I go, but it keeps throwing codes without the CEL illuminating. What's going on here?
I thought the check-engine-light was supposed to illuminate each time the ignition was turned on, and that it would come on each and every time the vehicle registered a fault code in the ECU/PCM.
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Is it possible for the engine fan to start running on my honda civic while the car is turned off and has been off for hours? My husband claims that it was so hot in the garage last night that the fan on the car started running. I think it was the house air conditioner that he heard, but he insists it was the car engine fan. I think he's up in the night!! So...is it him, or me, that's up in the night?!
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I am a grad student hoping my car will hang in there till graduation next year. I have about 227,000 miles on my Honda Accord Wagon and recently the odometer stopped working, S light started flashing, and the check engine light came on. This only happens sometimes, and the check engine light does not always come on when the S light flashes and odometer stops working. I've continued driving the car to see what happens and so far, no problems have come up. I have driven another 1000 miles and am hoping I can just ignore the problem and continue driving the vehicle since I am not in a position to fix it or get a new car.
Recently I passed my California emissions test and she seems to be running smooth. Any thoughts or warnings as to why sometimes these signals happen?
I have to drive with GPS on all the time to know my speed, but other than that I feel OK.
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The check engine light is on in my 1996 Honda Civic. The code for it is P1382, which is supposed to be either a misfire or the ignition control system. It runs fine most of the time, but intermittently cuts out while I am driving sometimes. I have replaced the spark plugs and fuel filter and the check engine light actually went off after replacing the fuel filter, but came back on the second time I drove the car. The distributer was replaced not quite a year ago with a reman distributor.
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I have a '96 Honda Civic DX model, manual transmission. I replaced the battery, sparkplugs, distributor last summer. Yesterday, hottest day yet this spring, my car wouldn't start. When cranked, the lights came on the dash, the fuel line was running, the check engine light blinked, but then no ignition. Left it overnight, started up fine this morning. Took it to a shop,Mechanic said battery and alternator were good and a replaced starter later, I took it home. Driving home, the idle dropped way too low (no tach) and almost stalled the car (battery light came on) when I pushed in the clutch. Now when I turn it on, it starts, idles regular, then the idle drops again.
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I have a 91 Toyota pickup. Few weeks ago setting in drive through truck quit when I turned on a/c. This happened coup,e times then next time I drove it ran fine. Then it stopped two days in row after driving 20 min. Truck would crank but shut down immediately. Waited few minutes and cranked and drove home no problems. Now truck will only run few min. Before stopping and if I turn on fan or lights the truck stops. Swapped battery from another vehicle but did not fix. Alternator seems to be charging fine, checked with meter output 14.5 volts charging. Checked for codes and no codes.
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have an 2009 Toyota Corolla 62K miles. If the car sits out 8 hours or more in VERY COLD (zero degrees) weather makes a 1-2 second clashing/sparking noise the split second after turning the ignition on but before engine starts. I tried to attach video/audio. The car starts and runs fine. isn't a ticking or knocking or tapping noise assoc. with bad engine. It isn't squealing noise assoc. w/ serpentine belt. I've been waiting for it to get cold enough to leave overnight at Toyota dealer. I keep wondering if it isn't related to the botched oil changed at the Toyota dealer a couple yrs ago when they forgot the oil & I ran car about 30-60 seconds. At the time, they said all was okay and did compression test (Cyl 1=178psi, #2=175 #3=180 #4=178) all within the normal specs 145-189. I got a 2nd opinion at another Toyota dealer at time who removed valve cover and inspected cam caps and scoped cylinder walls and said all was okay and compression good. No mechanical problems- uses no oil, check engine light not on, etc. What noise is and why just when very cold and car sits out long time?
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