Passat (B5) :: Occasional Engine Start When Clutch Pressed And Ignition Key Turned
Nov 16, 2007
What is wrong with my Passat: once a week my car fails to start. When clutch is pressed and ignition key is turned I can hear relay under dash is clicking and nothing happening. It does not sound to me as starter (I hope). After a few seconds and few attempts car starts normally. I checked which relay is clicking and it was Relay # 53 (starting interlock relay), which linked to a clutch switch. Replaced this relay and after a week problem repeated.
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I have a 2002 Passat GLS and when I tried to start my car this morning, it would not start. When I turn on the ignition, the car gives off a loud clicking sound. The interior and exterior light works, the panel light works, and the radio works as well. What might be the problem?
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My 2003 Toyota Camry LE has been running fine. Recently I parked the car somewhere for about 5 minutes and when I returned the car would not start, i.e. when I turned the key in the ignition the engine would not engage. I called the tow truck. The tow truck driver takes a look and tells me that she can hear the engine trying to kick in. She thinks the battery is fine, the alternator is fine etc. etc. So she pops the hood, takes a long metal rod, places it on the starter and gives it a couple of gentle taps. Then she asks me to start the car. I do and it works. She tells me that the starter was stuck and that what she did freed it up.
The car runs okay now but I am concerned as to whether this could be a sign of things to come. Should I take my car in the get the starter looked at or maybe replaced? The dealer says that a new starter will run me 350 bucks but also said that I don't need to come in unless it happens again. What does the community think? Do I have a problem or was it a one off thing that I can ignore for now? And I don't know if its important or not but the weather here has been starting to get colder lately. Could that be responsible in any way? I have about 81000 miles on this car.
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My buddy has a 2000 1.8t 5 speed wagon, it got towed the other day and now it is having issues shifting. I doubt that it is related to the towing. If you start the car in neutral, you cant get it to shift into any gear with the clutch pressed. Even if you try to shift with the clutch not pressed, it physically wont go into gear, it wont even grind. it just wont go.
However, it goes into gear with the car off. Your an start the car in gear with the clutch pressed, and can drive as normal....until you need to shift. at which point, it does as described above. He had a shop tell him that the clutch is bad, but it does not slip. I was thinking perhaps the shift linkage, but I don't know a whole lot about these transmissions, I am only well acquainted with mk2/mk3 style 020's.
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Had a No start issue.Turn the key and nothing. Could hear the relays click so knew it wasn't the ignition. Could jump the starter via the wire on the passenger fender so starter good. Replaced the clutch position switch last night. Still have no start but now when I press clutch I have a tow haul light come on dash.If I press it again it turns off. Truck doesn't have tow haul option installed. I hear a relay clicking under the dash too. This is a 2004 Superduty (F550). Replaced the ignition switch today and still same.
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have an issue with my 03 trailblazer. i have the problem of no start when key turned to start position. actually nothing happens when the key is turned to start position. dash comes on when key is turned to on pos tho. took battery off and had it tested and it is at full charge. took starter off and had it tested and it passed. checked ignition relay cavities per this youtube video "Chevy Trailblazer no crank testing and information" and there is no light when touching the ground request cavity and turning the key to start position.
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Every couple of days I'll notice the wipers sort of "twitch" up the windshield about " when I turn the car off. They don't go back down until the car is started and rolling forward. I'm not sure if there's a particular speed that triggers this, but it would have to be less than 5 mph.
The wipers seem to work fine. My local service department suggested that the wipers might be in "service" (a.k.a. "winter") mode. Based on what the owner's manual says about winter mode I'd have to disagree. The wipers move just the smallest amount.
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I have a 2004 Elantra GT, and for the past year it sometimes makes no attempt to start when the ignition key is turned. All the dashboard lights, radio, bells and whistles are fine, but once the key is turned to start nothing happens. There are no clicks or anything. Some dashboard lights stay on and I can hear the initial whirring under the hood from the electrical system.
I've replaced the battery, ignition wires, and plugs. This will happen very erratically. Then all of a sudden it will fire up like nothing was wrong. This is always over a several minute time span of trying and retrying to start. I took it to a mechanic but we can never replicate the problem while there.
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I have a 2003 Pontiac Grand Am it will start once but after that if you turn off ignition it will not start again until it has sat for a long time.
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Much of the time the car starts right up as it should. But there are times when you turn the key and nothing - no movement, no noise, etc. The dash lights come up, nothing else.
At such times the car often will start after you wait 10 minutes or so and try again. Once it *does* start it does so pretty normally.
I've suspected either the transponder in the key or the clutch "lock" (manual transmission car) having an intermittent fault, but have not yet taken the car in for a full review. Given the sporadic nature of the problem I fear that the dealer won't be able to replicate the problem....
The battery is new, so that should not be a factor. My wife uses the car most of the time, and she's freaking out.
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This morning my cars battery was dead and when I tried to pop the clutch to start it it went into gear but nothing turned on. When jump starting the car it turned on I drove it for a little while and was idling when it shut back off (battery was dead again). I came back to the car in a couple minutes, tried to start it and it started right up. I'm not sure what to think of this.
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Today I came out of a store & my car started beeping the panic alarm. I don't carry the key fob with me, just a key. I unlocked the door, sat down, put the key in & turned the ignition. The lights all lit on the dashboard as normal but the car did not start. absolutely nothing. I was at a loss for what to do.
Fortunately, someone came out of the store & asked me if I needed a jump & explained what happened, and he said let me try something. He tried to start the car, then got out of it, locked the door, unlocked the door, sat back down & tried again. The car started right up.
The car is a 2014 Elantra SE with the Premium Package.
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I have a 1991 Honda that has a quirk which is driving me nuts. When I turn off the engine, the key won't readily come out. It's especially difficult when the temperature is below 40 degree's. I've replaced the key at a Honda dealer, which my mechanic suggested, but to no avail. I shake the gear shifter repeatedly which doesn't seem to work. I sprayed lubricant into the key hole. It's frustrating to have to sit and wait a couple of minutes to exit my car.
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I have a 1991 Honda Accord with 250, 000 miles on the odometer.
It has happened a couple times in the past 2 months when the engine fan turns itself on after the ignition has been turned off. The latest incident was a couple days ago when the fan repeatedly turned itself on and off. I discovered by turning on the ignition to the first click would stop this. Engine temperature gauge shows engine operating temperature to be well within normal limits.
Question: why is this happening?
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Recently I went out to start the car with the key I typically use, and when I pressed the Start button I got the message "Key Not In Range." The key will lock / unlock the car, but simply won't start it. I've been having to use my spare / second key in the meantime. I haven't had a single problem with the car since I bought it Sept 2012.
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2009 Ford Focus. Six months ago got in car returning from 60 mile trip. Turned ignition key heard fuel pump hum but no juice to ignition. (Not anti-theft lockout--security light behaved normally.) Would not take jump. Ford Roadside assistance tried everything else possible. Nothing. Towed to nearest Ford dealer. On arrival, car started immediately. Took to local Ford dealer who found absolutely no problems but ran TSB 10-21-8 reprogram PCM--test OK. Had no further problems with car until a week-and-a-half ago--same thing happened. Car towed to dealer again. Started immediately at dealer! Picked up from dealer, that night same thing happened. Did not phone roadside assistance--after 45 minutes car inexplicably started. That was a week ago. No problems since then. Feeling a little panicky w/car that may fail at any time--winter coming.
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My 2005 Nissan Altima has been fairly reliable up until the past two years, as it seems several aspects of the cars performance are starting to decline rapidly. I recently changed a headlight bulb, and upon reconnecting the battery, the engine refused to turn over and catch when I turned the ignition. After several tries, the car started and I noticed the check engine light has come on. I took it to AutoZone to get a read out, and the told me that I got two error codes: one for crankshaft position sensor and one for engine speed sensor. It's been a while since I got the readout, and I lost the paper with that I wrote the codes on, but I think the codes may have been P0335 for the crankshaft position sensor and P0725 for the engine speed sensor.
I changed the crankshaft position sensor and camshaft position sensors on my car, and the problem changed from a major problem to a moderate problem. The car performance now:
1) The check engine light is still on
2) When starting my car, I turn the ignition to connect the battery, wait a few seconds, turn to start the engine, and it takes about 3 turnover attempts before the engine catches and the car starts (inserting the key and turning it straight over to try and turn on the car often results in turnover attempts with no start).
3) When driving, the car now shifts hard at times and seems to be changing gears at higher RPMs than expected.
4) When going up a steep incline, as I press on the gas, the car RPMs go up but the car does not accelerate like it used to. It eventually shifts very hard into the lower gear and then I can accelerate up the incline at a much higher RPM rate than expected
I was reading wear these issues may be caused by a clogged fuel system, but I wanted to check with some of you guys to see what you think it may be before I go trying a fix on anything.
In terms of car care, I would say I'm fairly responsible. I get the oil changed regularly, and have always gotten scheduled maintenance taken care of as well as any maintenance at the recommendations of the mechanics I trust.
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My old Trooper, which is painted like the Merry Prankster bus, has had a series of electrical/ignition problems. It began earlier this winter with an occasional engine miss and also occasional a failure to start. My mechanic has replaced the distributor, the coil and the ignition control module (twice). Each time it runs fine for a couple of days and then starts acting up again. It is currently sitting in my driveway with zero spark coming out of the coil. The year of my Trooper is 1990.
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Just Bought an 05 Passat 1.8T about month ago. It has 80k miles on it. I was driving down a road going about 40 mph and all of the sudden the engine is not responding to the pressing of the accelerator, everything else was normal. So I coast into a nearby parking lot. Car won't start, all lights come on and but would not turnover. Got it towed, few days go by, now car turns over but immediately dies.
No codes read on it. The dealership will not cover a diagnostic or anything fuel related.
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It's a 1999 Toyota Celica GT 2.2L, about 190000 miles and I just replaced the transmission not too long ago. Here's what happened, I was sitting a light, the light turned green, and I pushed the gas and the car stalled. I put it in park, tried to turn it on, and it won't start, but is still turning over, making an awful whining noise. Not the transmission. Battery is good, windows, stereo, etc still work. Terminals are good. Everything is still connected, I just changed my oil about 1000 miles ago, still has oil. Has transmission fluid, actually has all it's fluids, no leaks. No check engine light or any other lights. She did not overheat, if anything was colder than usual, No water in my motor, everything LOOKS good, and I take good care of my car, so I'm really baffled. I just spent my savings on the transmission, I'm not a mechanic, I'm just learning to do things on my own.
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My passenger side HL occasionally doesn't come alive at ignition when the light control dial/switch is set on Auto mode. My dealer cannot duplicate the problem.
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