Passat (B5) :: 2002 Variant 1.8T - Occasional Non-start When Turn The Key
Dec 17, 2008
Much of the time the car starts right up as it should. But there are times when you turn the key and nothing - no movement, no noise, etc. The dash lights come up, nothing else.
At such times the car often will start after you wait 10 minutes or so and try again. Once it *does* start it does so pretty normally.
I've suspected either the transponder in the key or the clutch "lock" (manual transmission car) having an intermittent fault, but have not yet taken the car in for a full review. Given the sporadic nature of the problem I fear that the dealer won't be able to replicate the problem....
The battery is new, so that should not be a factor. My wife uses the car most of the time, and she's freaking out.
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So my mechanical fan came apart and punctured several holes in my radiator and my car leaked water and coolant everywhere. So it happened right after startup and I drove it until the coolant light came on, the car wasn't even to full temp.
I started the car a few times between the time I parked it after the fact and when it was finally in my garage. I had to move it into a parking lot after I parked it because it would have to sit over night. Then it was started to put it on a Tow Dolly (AAA has stupid rules, but that's another story) and when I had to pull it off. I also moved it closer to my garage door prior to actually pulling it apart.
Then after I finished changing out the radiator and filling back up with tap water and G12, the thing won't start. It turns over and is getting fuel, but just isn't firing. I didn't disconnect anything other than the hoses for the radiator, the trans coolant lines on the radiator and the coolant temp sensor. So I don't know why this would cause the car not to start.
My car:
1999 VW Passat GLS Variant
1.8T Tiptronic
Giac X Chip
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My 2002 standard B2300/4cyl Ford Ranger sometimes idles very low on start up, and it will jerk as though it were coughing when i engage in 1st and give it a tiny bit of gas. the jerking stops if i give it proper gas. oh yeah and about the low idle, it's only after starting, not at stops, and once i give it a bit of gas it pops right back up to 1800ish and drops to 1200ish as it should. this happens less this summer but i'm afraid it will happen more often as the weather changes and i want to deal with this before winter hits. it feels like something is clogged.. but what do i know! My baby's got 119 000km and i bought it a year ago, no maintenance history.
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What is wrong with my Passat: once a week my car fails to start. When clutch is pressed and ignition key is turned I can hear relay under dash is clicking and nothing happening. It does not sound to me as starter (I hope). After a few seconds and few attempts car starts normally. I checked which relay is clicking and it was Relay # 53 (starting interlock relay), which linked to a clutch switch. Replaced this relay and after a week problem repeated.
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My 2002 F150 Screw has been giving me issues when trying to start it for the last month. Sometimes it will start sometimes it won't. When I turn the ignition on the gauges all seem normal, the theft light turns solid then goes out, but engine will turn over but not start. Sometimes it will start if I leave the ignition on for 20 seconds then pull the key and try again. (this doesn't always work). I have disconnected the battery for about 2 minutes this usually works but not always.
Sometimes it will start first time with no issues. Once the the engine fires it runs fine. Another symptom is when I shut the engine off, pull the key and open the door, the chime telling me that the key is still in the ignition sounds. (but the key is in my hand)
I put a new battery in yesterday to rule that out and because the old one seemed to be getting weak. (starting issues didn't go away). I don't want to put 300+ into a fuel pump without being sure that's the problem.
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I have a 2002 Passat 4motion 2.8 automatic. I recently moved from PA to Florida and love my car but don't need AWD down here. Could I possibly disconnect the drive components going to the rear of the car...also hoping to get better gas mileage from the disconnect.
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Ok thinking of getting a 2.0T... What is the part# or where to get tail lights w/ amber LED turn signal lights ?
Basically is there a difference between the euro spec and our spec tail light cluster? Kind of what vortex did w/ their project EOS.
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I have a 2002 passat I pulled the ground when replacing the turbo. Now the aftermarket radio will not turn off. It has killed the battery twice now. How to fix it?
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Misfire is on #6. Feels like a partial miss, not every revolution, and there's no noticeable miss while cruising or holding a higher rpm in neutral. It's a B3000 with 97k miles. New Motorcraft plugs, new wires, 10.7k ohms across coil terminals (1-5, 2-6, 3-4).
I've swapped plug wires between cylinders and side-to-side on the coil. I also sprayed MAF cleaner all around the intake looking for a leaky gasket. I feel pretty confident I'm looking at a bad/dirty injector or valve issue. I plan on doing a compression test next and hopefully nail it down to one or the other.
I'm asking for input on my diagnosis so far. And how difficult is it to replace the injector? Will I need to remove the upper intake?
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i have a 2002 passat b5.5 and i have been having this problem every time i use one of my turning signals it sometimes turns on..........but quickly shuts off...and then sometimes it doesn't turn on at all..
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I have had a 2002 Prius since December of 2012, and it has been running fine since I got it; while it was in a wreck in May 2013 that has rendered both passenger-side doors and windows unusable, I have not seen that incident cause any other problems, and the car still runs perfectly fine. I am supposed to be driving from my current home state for a job soon, but about a week ago while I was driving on the interstate, the check engine light started flashing.
I was changing lanes and putting a good bit of pressure on the gas in order to pass someone that was going below the speed limit, putting my speed at around 80 mph when the check engine light started flashing. I started getting off of the interstate to find a place to stop and inspect things, but the light stopped flashing when I got down to around 45 mph on the exit ramp, and I was able to drive the rest of the way on the interstate without any trouble, even when I got in the 75 mph range again. The span of time between the light starting to flash and turning off again was probably about a minute or so.
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So I picked up a 2002 passat 1.8T autotragic from a guy because a shop said it had a bad computer. After bringing it home and talking to some local volkswagen mechanics they said it couldn't be the computer because the car would still crank. I jumped the trigger wires and the car starts right up no problems and runs perfect for sitting for a year. My question is what could be the problem? I changed the ignition switch and replaced the 40amp fuse by the computer. I am trying to flip the car so I am hoping its not a big problem and have to part the car out.
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Check engine light came on after a car wash yesterday. I'm sure there is nothing wrong with the car and i recently had an oil change done. i use full synthetic oil too and always get it done on time. Is there a way for me to clear the engine light myself?
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I have a 2016 F250 extended cab with 8 foot bed with snow plow and camper package currently less than 2500 miles on it. Every once in a while when I make a turn (typically a left hand turn) I will here a brief noise that sounds like a rubbing or "squawk" noise. The noise doesn't seem to be related to the turn so much as to the roll of the truck when it unloads / loads the suspension. I'm guessing it might be related to sway bar bushings or something similar, but I just don't know.
I have tried to find a stretch of road near the dealer where I can make the noise happen so I can take a tech for a ride so I can let them hear exactly what I hear, but as hard as I try I cannot reproduce the noise consistently.
I have visually checked underneath and I do not see anything wrong and I suspect it's not serious, but I'd like to know the cause and obviously correct the problem.
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I have a 02 bravada that will not start, or even attempt to turn over. The battery is new, all the interior light are on, headlights work and radio is fine. When turning the key there's nothing though??? What could be causing this???
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Every time you turn the wheel it makes a groaning noise, the power steering fluid is full, it seems to do it more while driving then when at a full stop. sometimes it sounds like it is coming from the center of the car, then it will sound like it is coming from the suspension.
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Suddenly, while starting the car I see the ABS & Brake warning lights come on for a few seconds and then turn off. After a week of driving it the warning light come on and stay on and now another light comes on that looks like a circle with an exclamation mark in it. Am I in danger of damaging anything if I keep driving it? I called the dealer and explained the problem and he said the problem is a faulty ABS Control Unit.
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My camry suddenly won't start. when i turn the key it makes this single click but won't start. Battery seems to be good. bad starter?
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The last couple of days when I started the car it didn't turn over immediately as it normally does. Now when I turn the key the dash symbols all come on; radio, lights, etc work fine. I hear a strange close sound like lite weight metal fluttering which continues as long as the key is turned to start. But nothing beyond that.
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I have a 2002 Subaru Outback Wagon. In May this year the OEM battery finally wore out, I was feeling poor so I bought a used battery from the local auto parts store. 2 months later, one day my car started chugging like it was having trouble starting and sounded like the battery was dying but then did start. Later that day it wouldn't start at all. Wouldn't turn over at all, but dash lights came on with key turn. Tried to jump it, wouldn't jump start. I bought a refurbed starter, had it put it, car starts.
A week later the same thing happened. Won't jump, no turn over, dash lights on when key turn. Had the battery tested, it was "good". Had the starter pulled, it was bad, put another refurbed starter in. Also replaced cables to the battery, and the clamp things that go on the cables to the battery. A week later, same thing, won't turn over, dash lights on with key turn. I was in the Costco parking lot when it happened this time, and got the tire mechanic to try to jump it. It jumped but was chugging like crazy and smoke came out of somewhere. The mechanic said he really thought it was a bad battery, that it sounded like the motor was trying to run off the alternator. I bought a new battery from Costco, and returned the used one to the parts store. When the used one was taken out, the mechanic said he could smell battery acid and it might have had a bad cell.
Now, the car will start when the engine is cold, but when I drive somewhere and it gets nice and hot (I live in Florida), it will not start again unless it is completely cold, or I get a jump. At least it will jump start now without a problem. I have had a mechanic use his little tool to check for computer codes, and of course there are none. I need to solve it not starting at all unless it is stone cold. My question is, what do you think is wrong?
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I've been trying to diagnose a problem i've been having. Every now and then after driving for about 30 miles, my car won't start for about five to ten minutes. I've had no problems while driving.
- The engine cranks, but doesn't turn over
- I can hear the fuel pump engage when i turn the ignition
- My crank sensor was replaced last summer, my SRS relay is good, as is my fuel injector relay
- Spark plugs and distributor cap are new
- It's a Regina fuel injection
I'm thinking RPM sensor at this point, but i'd hate to replace it if it's not the problem.
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