Mazda - B2300 :: 2002 - Occasional Low Idle On Start
Aug 23, 2016
My 2002 standard B2300/4cyl Ford Ranger sometimes idles very low on start up, and it will jerk as though it were coughing when i engage in 1st and give it a tiny bit of gas. the jerking stops if i give it proper gas. oh yeah and about the low idle, it's only after starting, not at stops, and once i give it a bit of gas it pops right back up to 1800ish and drops to 1200ish as it should. this happens less this summer but i'm afraid it will happen more often as the weather changes and i want to deal with this before winter hits. it feels like something is clogged.. but what do i know! My baby's got 119 000km and i bought it a year ago, no maintenance history.
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I have a 2003 Mazda B2300 pickup that sometimes won't start. When you turn the key all the way, it won't do anything, no sounds no nothing. However, if you try it a few more times it will eventually fire up and run normally. Last Friday, I must have tried to turn it on about a dozen times but nothing happened. So I tried the old hammer on the starter motor technique and it fired up immediately.
So I thought it must be the starter motor. But since then it's been turning on normally, except once when I turned the key and it did nothing. The battery is good, I replaced that about 8 months ago, and the battery cables look good. I'm hesitant to throw a new starter in. Could it be something cheaper, like a relay or some other electrical problem? Or could it be the starter and its on its way out?
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Mazda B2300 2.3L 1995 model... About a week ago I ran my B2300 out of gas (or so I was convinced I was out of gas) because the engine quit running. After adding gas was unable to start it back up. It turns over but doesn't start.
Here's what we did to try and fix it:
1.) Replaced Fuel Filter
2.) Check the fuel pressure, and it was at 35 psi when the key was on
3.) Replaced all 8 spark plugs (4 cylinder truck btw)
4.) Checked spark of all 8 coil pack slots and 1st and 3rd slots (exhaust side) were not sparking. After replacing coil pack we received spark but truck still didn't start.
We're speculating on the possibility of it being the PCM (ECC).
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I am working on a 96 Mazda b2300 auto 2wd for a friend. His son was driving it when a loud noise, it died and wouldn't start back up. He had it towed to my house, I started to tear into to it and found it slipped the timing belt. So a rebuilt head, gaskets, timing belt, fuel injectors, water pump, thermostat, plugs, and fluids; tried to start it and nothing. Started troubleshooting and found the primary coil pack was out of spec, replaced and still nothing.
Changed out the CKPS still nothing? I have spark, I have fuel, I'm going to check compression tomorrow but the way the cylinders and pistons looked I don't think that is the issue but I going to check anyway, rechecked the timing marks they all lined up. Checked the fuel inertia switch not tripped. Could the PCM, or ICM cause a no start, and still be able to get spark and fuel?
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I have a 2004 mazda b2300 4cyl 5 speed that wants to stall on me sometimes when I engage the clutch and all most come to a complete stop. It does not happen every time i do this, but some of the time. I am able to instantly restart the truck and drive just fine. I am just confused at what might cause this. I did a tune up to it this weekend, and the cap from the clutch fluid did come off, I don't know if this would have anything to do with it. The truck runs great, just wants to stall some times.
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I inherited a 1994 Mazda B2300 Pick Up 5 speed with just over 100K miles. Problem is the temp. gauge will just barely move off "C" at full tilt on a summer day. Confirmed the temp gauge was right. Replaced the thermostat and flushed out the system and heater core. Hoses are "warm". Cardboard over the radiator will push the temp. up to the middle after 20 minutes on freeway. Next checked the fan clutch. No dice. The fan spins free and can be stopped by hand. So, what else is "open" allowing too much coolant flow?
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Replaced the front oil seal on a 1992 mazda B2200 an it starts leaking again after running for about 20 minutes? Is there any where else oil can come from near there?
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I had my clutch replaced about a year ago in my 2003 mazda b2300 truck. Recently, it's been showing some of the same symptoms that popped up about a year ago. Such as, it's having a hard time going into first gear, and it seems to be generally clunky while switching the lower gears. The first clutch was replaced at 130k so I was alright with that. However, I find it hard to believe that I burned out this new one in a year. I do live in Boston, so traffic is pretty bad, but I try to not ride the clutch in traffic.
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I have a 1995 Mazda Truck, B2300 series that is a 4 wheel drive. Recently I had the front brakes replaced, new clay disc brakes. Not so long after that I started to hear a noise as I was braking as well as squeaking. I thought, of course it had something to do with the new brakes. The sound happened occasionally at first and now is every time I brake.
I can hear it as I'm coming to a stop, sounding like it's coming from the rear. It's a rubbing type noise, like a wa, wa, wa, wa that happens until I have stopped. After 2 mechanics I now have a $700 estimate to replace the u-joint, and they aren't even sure if that will fix it.
The front brakes are new. The rear drums have been replaced and machined to fit properly (they thought that was the issue). Is this common or something that I have to fix every such and such miles?
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Misfire is on #6. Feels like a partial miss, not every revolution, and there's no noticeable miss while cruising or holding a higher rpm in neutral. It's a B3000 with 97k miles. New Motorcraft plugs, new wires, 10.7k ohms across coil terminals (1-5, 2-6, 3-4).
I've swapped plug wires between cylinders and side-to-side on the coil. I also sprayed MAF cleaner all around the intake looking for a leaky gasket. I feel pretty confident I'm looking at a bad/dirty injector or valve issue. I plan on doing a compression test next and hopefully nail it down to one or the other.
I'm asking for input on my diagnosis so far. And how difficult is it to replace the injector? Will I need to remove the upper intake?
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Occasionally, when restarting my 2003 Santa Fe V6,it refuses to idle. If I manually press on accelerator pedal it will start and run and after a few moments it will run fine. This seems to happen more often in high temps i.e., deserts.
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Much of the time the car starts right up as it should. But there are times when you turn the key and nothing - no movement, no noise, etc. The dash lights come up, nothing else.
At such times the car often will start after you wait 10 minutes or so and try again. Once it *does* start it does so pretty normally.
I've suspected either the transponder in the key or the clutch "lock" (manual transmission car) having an intermittent fault, but have not yet taken the car in for a full review. Given the sporadic nature of the problem I fear that the dealer won't be able to replicate the problem....
The battery is new, so that should not be a factor. My wife uses the car most of the time, and she's freaking out.
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We've owned this 2002 Mazda Tribute v6 for six years. Recently, the car has become somewhat dangerous to drive. While driving down the road at any speed, releasing the throttle does not result in the engine decelerating or returning to idle. Instead, it continues to hold the speed steady for 3-5 seconds before the RPMs drop. At lower speeds (~5mph or so) the car will even accelerate a bit, which can be a problem in tight parking situations. At higher speeds (e.g. on the freeway) releasing the throttle has no effect for a few seconds (ie it does not decelerate), which can be very surprising if you're responding to suddenly slowing traffic. The brakes can, of course, overpower the engine, but you do have to push harder to get the same braking effect as if you were not fighting against the engine. Releasing the throttle and shifting into neutral while driving causes the engine to rev quite high (3,000rpm) for the same 3-5 seconds before dropping to a steady idle, but it does allow you to brake normally. Shifting back into Drive while in motion but not touching the throttle causes the engine to decelerate the car normally. Touch the gas even briefly, though, and the engine will once again surge.
Oh, and turning the steering wheel from side to side, as you might do while parking, also causes the engine to surge, though not as much as it does when I touch the gas pedal. Also, I've disconnected the throttle and cruise control cables and worked the throttle plate by hand. Doing so causes the RPM to rise, as you expect, but it does not immediately return to idle when the throttle plate snaps shut. Instead, the RPMs stay around 12~1500 for 3-5 seconds before it drops to idle.
Over the years, I've replaced the throttle position sensor, idle air control valve, and other normal maintenance items. I used a meter to troubleshoot the IAC and TPS and used propane to look for vacuum leaks, but everything is within spec. There are recall notices related to unintended acceleration for these vehicles, but those are reportedly caused by interference between the engine cover and cruise control. I do my own maintenance and don't like engine covers, so I removed the cover from this car shortly after buying it; the engine cover cannot be causing this problem. I have disconnected the battery for an hour to reset the computer, but that has no effect. There are no trouble codes that show up on a OBD-II scanner, and the CEL is not illuminated. There are many internet reports of this problem, but thus far I've found none that indicate a solution.
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I'm about to tear into a friends 2002 B2300 4 cyl. The lower hose that comes off of the coolant reservoir is leaking in the metal part of the line. Close to where it bolts to the block. At a glance, it looks like I have to pull the whole top of the motor apart to get it off since the line runs around behind the motor. Is there a trick to removing this coolant line without a lot of teardown? I'm not finding it at parts stores so I guess it's a stealership part.
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I'll be driving the car fine, but after driving for maybe 10+ minutes and then stopping for 20-30 minutes, my manual 2002 Mazda Tribute DX (about 126K miles) won't start. It doesn't act flooded at all, all I hear is a click. The lights and radio and air conditioning and everything come on perfectly, but it won't start. About half of the time, it won't work at all with repeated attempts but after about 5 min. it'll just start normally. I've towed it to a shop 3 times now, on the first the alternator was replaced, and after about a week the same problem occurred, etc.
My mechanic then thought I might not be pressing the clutch all the way down since it worked right after towing but after about a week (I removed the floor mat and even made a video of me, a relatively large male, pressing as hard as safely possible on the clutch) but it still wouldn't start. It was towed, and now the car is at the shop again but the mechanic can't reproduce the problem yet again. Its battery and clutch were just replaced about a year ago, the connections don't look corroded, and my mechanic's tests on the alternator seem fine. Steering wheel isn't locked, and (supposedly) the shop's tried looking at the starter.
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My 2001 BMW 325Ci has an occasional "surging" idle problem. When coming to a stop or at idle, the engine will rev between 500 and 1000 rpm's. Sometimes it will correct the problem and idle normally, or keeps surging until it eventually stalls. When restarted it works fine. Tried fuel injector treatment, fuel stabilizer treatment, and replaced thermostat. Still surges about 50% of the time. Had it to a dealer, and computer says its running fine.
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I've made a video of the pumping sound in that seems to get "stuck on" repeatedly at occasional times while the car is in operation or at idle. What it is and if it should not be going on like this without stopping? The car is a 2004 Canadian model, assuming it has the coolant thermos.
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I have had a 2002 Prius since December of 2012, and it has been running fine since I got it; while it was in a wreck in May 2013 that has rendered both passenger-side doors and windows unusable, I have not seen that incident cause any other problems, and the car still runs perfectly fine. I am supposed to be driving from my current home state for a job soon, but about a week ago while I was driving on the interstate, the check engine light started flashing.
I was changing lanes and putting a good bit of pressure on the gas in order to pass someone that was going below the speed limit, putting my speed at around 80 mph when the check engine light started flashing. I started getting off of the interstate to find a place to stop and inspect things, but the light stopped flashing when I got down to around 45 mph on the exit ramp, and I was able to drive the rest of the way on the interstate without any trouble, even when I got in the 75 mph range again. The span of time between the light starting to flash and turning off again was probably about a minute or so.
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My '05 (134k, rwd, V10) has had an occasional issue with stalling when going into neutral. The normal idle speed in park or neutral is 700. In drive or reverse it dips down to 350 or so and then evens out at 500. The stalling is not all the time, perhaps 2 out of 10 shifts. It is slightly worse with the A/C running. Every time it stalls, it records a P0506 error which I then clear out with my ScanGauge II.
I have done some research and have replaced the air filter (super dirty), fuel filter (not sure on how old) and cleaned the MAF tonight. For the MAF, I pulled it from the air tube and gave it a bunch of squirts of MAF cleaner. I did this 3 times letting it dry in between cleanings. I have run a bottle of SeaFoam through it, as well. The idle seems to be very smooth and it pulls my 7k travel trailer without issue. That did get a little better with the new air filter and fuel filter.
I went for a ride tonight and the problem persists. I'm taking it in to have the A/C recharged next week and will have the shop diagnose it. I came across this post which details my issue exactly. The steps are to reprogram the PCM and TCM, and possibly replace the throttle body. Is the reprogram something an independent shop can/should do?
P0506 idle lower than expected on 05 ford f350 v10
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When I start it up it won't idle untill you give it gas to 2500 rpms and slowly let off the pedal to 1000 rpms to keep it running and itll stay running. When you turn it off you have to redo it all over again. The plugs and wires were replaced. It started doing it couple days after the back 3 plugs and wires were replaced. Just got the fuel pressure regulator replaced and it still wont start up without giving it gas.
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I had a rough idle and now car wont start. 2002 elantra, 4 cylinder. replaced tps, replaced fuel filer, cleaned IAC. I can hear fuel pump car wont stay running...
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