Golf IV / Jetta IV :: When Tried To Pop The Clutch To Start It Went Into Gear But Nothing Turned On
Mar 22, 2015
This morning my cars battery was dead and when I tried to pop the clutch to start it it went into gear but nothing turned on. When jump starting the car it turned on I drove it for a little while and was idling when it shut back off (battery was dead again). I came back to the car in a couple minutes, tried to start it and it started right up. I'm not sure what to think of this.
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I drive a 24v vr6 GTI in 6-speed I was coming home and as I turned and got on the gas a little and all of a sudden there was a pop and my car couldn't go in gear when I release the clutch. Luckily I was close to home and basically cruised in neutral. I jacked it up and found that my axle is twisted. Now I was aware the boots were torn before so I'm assuming the axle got screwed up but my other concern is, why won't my car go in gear? Here's the photo of inner CV. I'm hoping it's just an axle and not the clutch.
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I installed a new clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel at 154,000 and I'm now just over 155,000. I drove it very conservatively for at least 1,000 miles, and had no issues whatsoever.
Now, after sitting for a day, starting off in first gear, I'll get some clutch chatter. Outside of first starting out in 1st, every other gear is solid. And the 1st gear chatter tends to get better as the car is driven longer.
Secondly, it happened today, I'm getting what I thought I experienced before as clutch slippage in 5th gear: I'll lose acceleration as if the clutch is slipping, but the revs won't spike even if I tap the throttle. If I come off for a second and go back on, everything is fine. It doesn't make sense that's it's slipping as it's brand news.
It also seems to happen when it's been rainy or wet, but that could be all in my head.
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The car runs fine clutch has pressure and everything. I can idle with the clutch pressed down and put into reverse and every gear BUT if I put it in a gear and start to let the clutch out I can hear a clanking or something flying around in there and it doesn't really want to go anywhere and I don't want to really let the clutch all the way out in gear or let it out for too long and screw anything else up worse..
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I picked up a 2004 GTI not long ago for pretty cheap because it had a few issues. I am working my way through them. However, having 3rd gear issue.
All other gears are perfectly fine but there is way less play in the shifter in the 3rd gear position and I have to hold the shifter in position until the clutch is engaged (pedal up) to avoid the gear grinding. Once the clutch is engaged it stays in 3rd gear fine. It doesn't matter if I am moving from 2nd to 3rd or 4th to 3rd. Same deal. I have aligned the shifter several times using to proper procedures with no effect.
It never grinds 3rd with the clutch disengaged (so the synchro is fine?) and it will bang shift no problem. Oh and the clutch is less than a year old. It was installed by a shop before I bought the car. It's not really a big deal, but I would like to fix it. If I have to swap the trans that's fine, but need to figure out if it is a trans or linkage issue first.
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98 Jetta TDI hydraulic system ... We just received this vehicle from my mother in law, who is not driving any more. It's a cream puff--79,000 miles, beautiful condition. Problem is the clutch engages lower and lower to the floor, and eventually the shifter gets stuck in gear. The brake pedal slowly sinks to the floor when at stops on hills. Our mechanic tells us these two are connected because both the clutch and brake run off the same hydraulic system.
1st time he said the fluid was filthy, and he emptied the system and put in clean fluid. Worked for a little while and then we were back where we started. Second time he replaced a couple parts on the clutch, replaced this fluid, and this time it ran like a dream for a little over a month. Then the problem just returned. Again he says the fluid is filthy, and now we are looking at replacing the master cylinder and again changing the fluid. The theory behind why this is happening is that my mother in law let the car sit for half a year before passing it on to us. She didn't do much driving the 6 months before that either. I've done research, and this doesn't appear to be a common problem by any means on these cars.
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Its a 2005 awp 1.8t gti with 180K stage 2 apr. When i tune the key to the accessories on position I used to hear the fuel pump priming but now I don't and the car wont start.
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I was sitting at a red light and the car shuttered and the rpms dropped but went back to idle. Then when the light turned green I released the clutch to start like normal and the rpms dropped and stalled. It cranks but won't start. I'm getting fuel to the fuel rail and I replaced the coil pack about a year ago.
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My 1.8 is having a stutter/hesitation in first gear when I first start driving. No cel besides a misfire in cylinder 1 that I got yesterday afternoon. The hesitation began well before that though. Researched the topic but could not find similar issues.
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I have an '02 GTI VR6. It died on me on the freeway after surging then limping to a stop and wouldn't restart. I replaced my fuel pump 5 months ago and now I suspect that it has died again, but I want to be absolutely sure that the pump is the problem before I replace it again.
Last time the car would sometimes hesitate in 1st and 2nd for a couple weeks before the pump actually went bad. This time it seemed fine for 5 months then just went out.
The pump does not prime when I open the door. I checked fuse #28 and it's not blown, but there doesn't seem to be any power to it. I tested the power to the fuel pump connector. When I turn the key on I get ~12v for a split second then nothing. While cranking the engine I get ~9v constantly. I hooked a square 9v battery straight to the two outside connectors on the pump and nothing happened.
Can I be sure that the pump is the only problem? Obviously it's dead, but is there any reason for fuse 28 to not be getting power? And should the connector only be getting power for a split second when the ignition is turned on? I tried a different fuel pump relay with no change.
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I have a question about an annoying issue that I'm having with the clutch pedal: is it normal for the clutch pedal to knock or vibrate whenever the AC is on? I ask because it only happens when the AC is turned on. The knocking goes away if I fully depress the clutch pedal or only lightly depress it. It seems to only occur in the in-between.
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I have recently bought a R32 2008, and when trying to turn the AC I don't hear the AC compressor clutch clicking, the fans are running normally (radiator fans ). What should I check ? Someone told me that maybe it's a compressor problem, and another one said that if the refrigerant gas is low the clutch won't be engaged.
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What is wrong with my Passat: once a week my car fails to start. When clutch is pressed and ignition key is turned I can hear relay under dash is clicking and nothing happening. It does not sound to me as starter (I hope). After a few seconds and few attempts car starts normally. I checked which relay is clicking and it was Relay # 53 (starting interlock relay), which linked to a clutch switch. Replaced this relay and after a week problem repeated.
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Just bought my first r 32 recently , had previously owned a 20th anniversary GTI, anyway guy i bought the car from mentioned the awd system was not working , recently was driving and clutch would not go into gear in addition to the haldex or awd not functioning . The clutch also kinda "stuck" to the floor .. Also I noticed some fluid on the undercarriage the day I brought it home . I'm pretty sure the car was beat on but there aren't many available up this way , and honestly I know I'm prob gonna spend some to get her road worthy again , Also felt like the car was operating in rwd for some reason and traction control light is on.
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Car: 2012 Mk6 Golf R
Mileage: 43,000 km
Software: UM stage 2 loaded
Related mods:
- diesel geek short shifter
- Emmanuel design, Sachs SRE stage 2 SMf clutch kit
- Tyrol sport deadest rigid collar kit (probably not related)
Background info:
Clutch installed at 40k km.
0-500km stop and go traffic
500-505km punched it bc a 350Z pissed me off*
506-1200km highway and not very aggressive twisters
1200-3000km hwy and city mix
First 0-500km I babied the clutch. No issue
501-505km I punched it a bit hard. Felt great. No issue
506-1200km hwy there, no issue. Closer to the 1200km mark the issue surfaced
1200-3000km was able to repeat the issue and adjusted diesel geek ss and re-bled the clutch in attempt to resolve it
Issue:
- from dead stop, 1st gear gets locked in at 2-4k rpm
- either I rev up beyond 4k, drop below 2k rpm to unlock it
- if I man handle n yank it out of 1st, gears grind
- only happens when the car is fully warmed up and fully running at optimal temperature for at least 10-15 minutes
- diesel geek ss readjustment
- re-bled the clutch (no topping off the clutch lines)
Issue was improved, however, I'm experiencing this locking issue again. Less frequent and less predictable. Attempted to replicate the issue, only happens if it's stop and go traffic-jam speed. Was unable to focus on an rpm range.
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So long story short, my clutch is not disengaging all of the way, but only sometimes.... I have replaced clutch, flywheel, slave cylinder, new stainless steel clutch line and new clutch master cylinder all within this month. The same issue has been occurring prior to replacing all of this and also after replacing all of this. I've bled the system (with a power bleeder) more times than you can count on both of your hands so there is no way there is air in the system.
More details : The clutch doesn't slip in any gear. Stop and go traffic in first gear is really the only time I notice it not disengaging. I can't pull it out of 1st gear when it happens so I have to shut the car off to get it out of first gear. When it's stuck in first gear with the clutch pushed in (on a flat surface) and I let off of the brake the car creeps forward. Not at full speed like if I were to release the clutch pedal all the way but its still semi engaged enough to make the car move.
Replacing everything theoretically should have fixed all issues, but it hasn't. The only thing I didnt replace was this piece of the factory clutch line.
Tomorrow I am going to take the stainless steel clutch line and run it straight to the clutch master cylinder bypassing that weird silver box and hope that fixes it. As a side question what does that silver box do anyways?
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So I have a stage 2 endurance clutch and light weight flywheel on my car. I had not really gotten on it of late until yesterday. I was getting on the highway and really got on it. When I hit third gear it felt like my clutch was slipping. I have only had it on the car for like six months and about 10,000 miles. It could be worn out all ready? And after the incident yesterday I pushed the clutch in and held it to let it cool down a bit after it did it held fine even in higher Rpms didn't feel like any kind of slipping. Pulled very strong. This morning after having all night to cool off (and I mite just still be freaked out a bit) but it seemed to feel different, like a possible slip at 3,000 Rpms but again I mite just be freaking out about nothing. What does a master cylinder or slave cylinder going out feel like?
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My Jetta is leaking gas like a sieve when the fuel pump starts. Its pretty obvious where its coming from. What this part is called or if there is more to it than just replacing it. Its coming from the round looking part on the fuel rail. Let me know what you think.
2000 Jetta 2.0 GLS Manual
[URl] ....
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Background facts:
Tranny swapped from my 4 speed auto to a 1.8t o2j 5spd
13lb. Light flywheel
Powerflex dogbone mounts
Peloquin LSD
The problem: Very hard to get a smooth shift from gear to gear. Trust me, I know how to drive, but I can always feel the car shifting into a different gear if you know what I'm saying. On my friend's bone stock Jetta, I just let the clutch out without gas in between shifts and you don't feel a thing.
On my car, you feel EVERYTHING. People have told me the light flywheel will make the ride more uncomfortable in many ways, especially since the RPMs drop much quicker in between shifts than stock.
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Last couple morning here in Michigan we've seen temps in the low to mid 30's. The last two mornings when I shift between 1, 2 & 3 I'm hearing a clicking noise coming from the clutch when engaging the gear. After a few minutes, once it warms up, the clicking goes away.
I am @ stage 1+ W/VWR intake, but I'm not expecting clutch troubles from that.
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My GTi has little over 18k on the clock and it will be a year old on Thursday. Coming back home from work last Friday i floored it @ around 3 rpm in 6th, and i got clutch slippage.
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