I was sitting at a red light and the car shuttered and the rpms dropped but went back to idle. Then when the light turned green I released the clutch to start like normal and the rpms dropped and stalled. It cranks but won't start. I'm getting fuel to the fuel rail and I replaced the coil pack about a year ago.
View 2 RepliesI've done a bit of research both here and on other sites. I originally thought that I had a bad flywheel but I'm not convinced. First I'll give a little backstory. I just installed steel shift forks because one broke and got jammed in the gears. None of the gears are damaged and I assumed that when it slammed to halt, the flywheel got messed up. So anyways, the complaint is that when the clutch pedal is released I start to hear a knocking sound which becomes more rapid with RPM. When the pedal is depressed the sound goes away. This sound seems to be coming more from the driver's end of the trans. The car still moves in all gears so I can't imagine that I put it together wrong.
View 6 RepliesThis morning my cars battery was dead and when I tried to pop the clutch to start it it went into gear but nothing turned on. When jump starting the car it turned on I drove it for a little while and was idling when it shut back off (battery was dead again). I came back to the car in a couple minutes, tried to start it and it started right up. I'm not sure what to think of this.
View 4 RepliesI came home last night and rolled into the driveway. With the car in neutral I took my foot off the clutch and the car stalled. I get in the car this morning to go to work, and it's still happening. I put it in reverse to see if it will drive.....and now it's stuck in reverse.
I can't get it into any other gear or neutral..........even when the car is off. I've unattached the linkage, and the shift knob moves freely.....so I don't think it's that. I found these old threads (one even mine)
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So I'm lead to believe that the master/slave cylinder is acting up again. Also, how can I get it into neutral so I can at least get it towed and stop blocking my driveway?
I have a 2002 Jetta 1.8t w/tiptronic that my wife has been driving for a long time. The other day it stalled on her, which it has done before but this time it wouldn't start. I had it towed to the house and when I turned the key it sounded like the starter was spinning but not engaging the flywheel. I took the starter out and it tested fine. I put it back in and still the same result. I bought a new starter and it is doing the same thing. The battery is fine and the flywheel turns fine manually. I am stumped about the not cranking issue. I do realize that the stall and starter problem are not related but unless I can get it started I can't see how I can take care of the stalling issue.
View 1 RepliesMy car is a 2011 Golf TDI....
Ok so yesterday I was getting onto the highway under normal acceleration and all of a sudden I heard sound that I can only describe as pressure being released. Immediately after, the cars shuts off and is just coasting. I have a standard transmission. I turn the car off, put it in neutral while still coasting, and restart it to see if it will start back up. It works but I have no power what so ever. Like it was in limp mode. So I pull over and turn it off and try to restart again and it just keeps stuttering and not turning over or starting up. I had it towed to my dealer.
So toady being Saturday, the dealer had a half day and didn't really get to diagnosing my car. Well I drove there and talked to the mechanic and he said when he drained the fuel it was clear as water, and that diesel should be yellowish. The service advisor then started asking me if I put gas in it or any additives. I never in my life have used additives and I have every single receipt from the start. He is saying that if they find out its gas, that it will not be covered by warranty. What should I do? Where do I go from here to ready my self to defend I didn't put gas in it.
It happened again this morning while putting the tranny into reverse and backing into my slanted/graded driveway about 60'. After the clutch has been released all of the way, a BEEP...BEEP...BEEP. aural sound comes from either the engine bay or under the dash. It's not happening when driving out fresh in the morning. It only occurred when I was backing up and on a grade. First, I had thought that it was my clutch telling me - Or, maybe it was the Hill Assist actuator in conflict when the car is actually moving. No smoke or burning coming from underneath nor any idiot lights flashing on the Dash.
I left a message for the Service Manager at the VW Dealer that I purchased the car from. I haven't heard back yet if he has ever heard of or witnessed this freak of nature event. Today was the second time in a week that this "Anomaly" has occurred.
I currently have a MKIV Golf. The other day i was out and about and i was going through an intersection. It had some deep gutters, or divets, whatever you want to call them to allow water to flow through the intersection. I didn't notice how deep they were until i hit them, being it was night and I didn't think going the speed limit i would even need to worry about that at a busy intersection. Anyways, i hit it, heard it, felt it. Didn't think of it much since it didn't seem that hard of a scrape. Got some food and ended up driving for another ten min.
My oil light came on and i ended up driving a block or 2 to the gas station. I stalled out on the highway right before i got to the gas station and had to try popping my clutch to make it into the parking lot as it was a busy highway. It restarted and i got into the parking lot fine. immediately turned off the engine. After half an hour and multiple dry dipstick checks and 3 quarts of oil on the floor i ended up finding out that there was a bullet size hole in my oil pan.
The only thing is that the fact the engine sounded horrible, but didn't seize up, and i don't know how long the engine was completely dry, should i take it to a shop so that there isn't a possibility that damage has been done to the engine? or should me replacing the oil pan, adding the proper oil and amount be sufficient for the engine to run fine. I don't want to take the chance as I've already been through engine problems with an s13 i had that seized up on me because of other oil issues.
Its done this twice to me, once last week, once this morning. Drive a short distance after cold startup and it dies. Cranks strong but doesn't turn over. I waited a few minutes (took longer today than last week) and it restarts with a larger than normal puff of smoke, perhaps due to the multiple cranks, and the epc light comes on. Last week, I finished my errands with it on, it even went off after a restart. Today I didn't bother driving it because I was late for work. 137,xxx miles
Fuel pump and filter were replaced recently, relay was not because I could hear it and a new one didn't fix my fuel pump issue. One day I didn't hear the pump prime so naturally it didn't start but after opening and closing the door and waiting some time, it did prime and start.
So the Jetta started running rough, then stalled after starting. Couldn't drive it home so I had to tow it. Got to the house and read codes. It gave me P0135, P0171, and P0321. I researched and saw that the only code of these three whose symptoms included stalling was P0321, so I replaced the Crankshaft Position sensor. Tried starting it, and it wouldn't start at all. I kept at it for a while thinking it would catch, but after 5 minutes the battery was too low to crank. I tested the old crankshaft sensor, and had resistance of about 900 ohms, so it was in range. For giggles, I pulled the new one and checked it, also in range. I put one of them back in, and proceeded to scratch my head. Charged the battery up, and now not sure what to do. I need to do a very close hose inspection, but there are no obvious tears or breaks.
View 1 RepliesIn every other manual transmission vehicle I have ever driven, the clutch pedal engages/disengages within an inch of the floor. Is it normal that the clutch in my 2002 Hyundai Elantra engages when the pedal is so far away from the floor? When I say far away from the floor I mean within an inch of the pedal being fully released.
View 21 RepliesI have an 00 Accent 1.5 liter 5 speed with about 192000 miles on it. I have put about a tank of gas through it since I've owned it, so I can't give a lot of background on it. When I got it the previous owner told me it was popping out of fifth gear and the clutch fluid leaked.
Upon driving it around a while I noticed it would pop out of fifth and third gears almost at random, but seemed to happen more when I applied throttle. I assumed it was an issue with the shifter not fully engaging the gears, and checked out the bushings under the hood and in the console. All looked good, and I didn't see any extra play.
I drove the car for about 30 miles straight and had to downshift and wasn't able to get the car to go into any gear but fifth. I was moving about 20 mph when this occurred. I was able to limp along to a parking lot where I let the car sit for about ten min and I shifted through the gears when stopped. I headed back home with this problem throughout the trip. There is a sound that happens on occasion (that stops when I press the clutch pedal) that sounds like a bad bearing in the clutch area.
When I'm stopped with the car in neutral and I release the clutch the car stalls like it's in gear. I was able to get the car to move some, but it really doesn't want to it acts like there is something jammed in the gears and popped really loud when I backed it up.
There is fluid for the master cylinder, and I can see the slave cylinder moving when the pedal is pressed. I jacked it up and removed the plug to check for gear oil, and it came pouring out, so I think it has fluid in the gearbox. I'm pretty sure it needs a clutch at the least. I think there may be some internal damage in the tranny, and I'm only into the car for the time it took to power wash a house and don't want to get involved in a big mess.
Last night when I turned my car on (cold engine start so let it warm up) and by accident when i was starting off on 1st i released the clutch to fast and not adding much gas causing the rpms to drop down and the car jumped and not sure if it shut off cause when it turns on it beeps once due to my tpms needing service and i heard the same beep but instead of shutting off the rpms jumped to 2k as if i was revving the engine and i began driving. What gives?
View 4 Replies2000 v6 manual wagon with +-90k. Brutally lowered with KW coils. First thing I noticed was the clutch pedal slowly getting lower and lower to the floor when fully released. Besides the pitch getting shorter, it seems to work fine, no slipping at all. It now sits a couple inches closer to the floor than the other pedals.
I am also getting a couple other things that may or may not relate to the clutch. It started out as a vibration under acceleration, getting worse over about a month or so. Now it is also starting to clunk when pressing or releasing the gas while the clutch is released. It also clunks when moving from a stop, although I can regulate this with the clutch.
I am thinking it is a motor mount causing the clunking and vibrating, and maybe the engines movement has caused the clutch to come out of alignment?? I am unsure where to start, which mount to check, etc.
I also just had my oil pan replaced after slamming the ground recently. Although the problems were starting before this, I am sure this wasn't exactly good for the motor mounts....
My Grandpa has an 88 Ranger 2wd with the 2.9l V6 and a 5 speed, I believe, M5od. I was driving down the highway when I heard a noise. I tried throwing the tranny in neutral but when I pressed the clutch pedal in, I had no pedal whatsoever. Engine took awhile to restart. It'd turn over a little almost as if a rod was bent or something of the sorts. Eventually the engine started and would stay running as long as the clutch was pressed in (disengaged).
The engine dies no matter what range the transmission is in,neutral included unless the clutch pedal is depressed. It Will die when the clutch is released in any gear with no forward movement that is noticeable. I can spin the tail shaft with the driveshaft installed and all gears in neutral but the input does not spin at all. Input shaft wont spin at all, period. I originally thought the slave cylinder was KIA but now I am very confused on what the problem could be? Is there a bearing the input shaft rides on that may of seized?
I pulled the tranny last night and took the top cover off. Yes, I made sure it was in neutral when I removed the cover. I can manually shift the collar to all gears by hand, 5th and reverse included. I'm stuck between a rock and a hard place here and where to go from here. I have bought a new clutch assembly and slave cylinder. This truck was bought by my Grandpa brand new in 1988. It has 98,000 miles and everything is original. I did forget to mention that there was very little oil in the trans when I drained it and it appeared to be gear oil vs ATF.
On my way back from the coast today, the trucks RPM's started going up and the engine was reving up, but I was losing steam. It started only when I was climbing long steep hills, but by the time I got home, it was doing from a dead stop in first gear, barely moving when I applied gas and released the clutch..
View 19 RepliesTitle should say Throw-out bearing aka Release bearing.
I have a 2010 5 speed Corolla CE. Having problems with their Throw-out bearings. At around 8000 miles the sqeaking/chirping noise of the bearing was too much so I brought in it to the dealer to fix. They agreed and made the repair.
Now it is only at 10000 miles (22000km) and I can hear it starting again. Just wondering if it is a common problem?
Noise comes and goes as the clutch pedal is released. If you push it in it will go away. It also will happen in all gears but easiest to hear in neutral.
My car makes a clunking sound when the clutch is released, it's not the throw out bearing or the pressure plate, as they have been replaced twice already???? Have dual mass flywheel go bad, what were the symptoms?????
View 10 RepliesI've been having this problem for a few weeks now and its getting real bad. When I'm driving along at normal speeds my car will cut off on its own. Also when I'm slowing down the car will jump up 5-600 rpms and at utter and shake a lot and every other time it'll cut off. I've replaced the maf and nothings changed. I'm really hoping it doesn't have to do with the transmission. The car has 241k on it .
View 3 RepliesI have a 2000 jetta 2.0. In 5th gear im turning 2900 rpm is this normal?i find it high....
View 24 Replieslike the title said is it normal that my car idles at 875 rpm on idle
View 7 Replies