Honda - Accord :: 1995 - Brake Pedal To The Floor Occasionally
Jan 3, 2013
I have a 95 Accord EX, 4 cylinder with ABS. The brake pedal goes to the floor about once a month, all times of year (I'm in Minnesota). I had the brakes bled last summer, but that didn't work. The ABS light has been on for probably 10 years. When I talked to my mechanic he said the ABS system, even though it's not working, could be a cause of the problem because fluid is still traveling through that system. He said most likely a master cylinder, but no guarantees. He said it could also be one of the brake lines. About 120k miles on it. What are the odds that it's the master cylinder?
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I have a problem about which the mechanics I have asked are baffled: In cool, cloudy or sunny weather, my brakes and break-pedal pressure are fine (the mechanics have said I have good fluid, brakes, etc.--they can find nothing wrong--and, of course, it never has a problem when they test-drive my car). However, when the weather warms up and it's a bright, sunny day, my brake pedal loses pressure and slowly sinks to the floor--a dangerous thing at intersections. There's slight pressure if I pump the pedal constantly while at a light; but, without pumping, the pedal immediately sinks to the floor.
This is a real problem, because this problem always occurs right when mechanics are not near or not open for business--and none I've talked to have ever heard of such a problem. The bright, hot sun's affect seems to be key, because if it's 80 degrees outside and cloudy, I don't have the issue--but, then again, I don't usually run the air conditioner if it's cloudy. As such, I'm not positive; but, this may be tied to when I turn on the air conditioner--as though the two share the same vacuum system.
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I have a 2005 4.2 with 89k 4wd. The brake pedal occasionally goes farther towards the floor when coming to the end of a stop. I have bled the brake lines. All brake pads, rotors, and lines are good. Could it still be air in the lines?
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After a recent front brake caliper replacement, the brakes work great except that when moderate pressure is continually applied to the brake pedal, the pedal goes all the way to the floor. While driving down the road, when the brake pedal is depressed, the brakes engage right where you expect them to, and the van stops just fine, even if the stop is extreme. There is no air in the brake lines. The front calipers have been replaced twice, the back brake cylinders replaced, the master cylinder replaced, the RABS valve replaced, all by a certified shop trying to address this issue.
I spoke with the service manager at a local Ford dealer in Seattle and he was aware of the problem and said that there is no solution. He said the brakes will work fine. He couldn't explain to me however, why this happens. If the van is not running, the brake pedal holds firm, so I assume the problem has something to do with either the ABS system or the power assist, but I can't say for sure. I can live with this since the van stops great. What is mechanically going on that allows the brake pedal to go to the floor even though the brakes are fully engaged after the pedal is depressed say a third to a half way down to the floor.
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Have 1995 Honda Accord with apx. 231,000 miles and needs all new break lines under the car. Honda Dealer states 12 hours of labor at $100 per hour. Should I go elsewhere or sell the car for $600 to the parts guy at the dealership offering to buy it since I wont pay the cost at this point to fix the car? Gas lines are all fine underneath by the way - I asked them to look since they could go next I would assume.
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I have a 2002 Honda Civic EX 1.7L. Recently the brake pedal would sometimes go to the floor when I'd apply the brakes. The car would still stop, but not as quickly as normally. If I apply the brake and it goes to the floor I would release the pedal and reapply the brake and it would stop at it's normal position and the brakes felt firm and the car would stop fine. I was told my problem was the master cylinder so I bought one on Sunday and replaced it. I bled the lines and it seemed like all the air was out. The brakes worked great and the pedal stopped in the same place and was firm.
Now today on my way to work the pedal went down a little farther than normal during one stop. On the way home it stopped in different places. The brakes would always grab and the pedal felt fairly firm wherever it stopped. I drove it this evening again and the pedal went to the floor like with the old master cylinder. One pump and they grabbed in the normal spot. What is going on? Did I not bleed the lines well enough? Is the new master cylinder just junk? I saw in the manual that air can get trapped in the ABS sensor, but an air bubble problem should just make the pedal squishy, not change where it grabs, right? I'm stumped and I really don't want to take my car in if I can fix it.
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I had the master cylinder change on a 92 honda accord EX the calibers change and, the master cylinder I have been told does not have any way to adjust the stem on the master cylinder so the brake man ajusted the brake pedal but the brakes are still freezing up. It is an automatic
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Car- 2008 Honda accord lxp automatic transmission 43k miles warranty expired in Jan 2013
I had a breakdown in this car about a week ago I was driving about 20 MPH and all the sudden it sounded like something broke lose in my engine like a rock was bouncing around in there, then came a very loud buzzing sound. I parked the car and got out because it sounded like I had a branch or something stuck on my wheel. Nothing and then I hoped back in drove it very slowly and the buzzing was super loud and it was jerking then it just died. It would not start back up again.
The motor cranks, but will not turn over. I had it towed to an automotive/transmission shop and they could not get power to the car I then towed it to another autoshop he had it for two days and ran every diagnostic he could and still could not get power to the car told me I would most likely need a new computer.
I then had it towed to Honda where it is currently at. They first said that it needed a new PCM because they could get no communication with the car. I ordered a new PCM with everything.
They put in the new PCM and still the car will not work and they are not sure why? He said “every once in a while we get a car in here that kicks are ass and your car is it” Not exactly having a whole lot of confidence in this car?
Any guess on what this might be? Maybe something everyone has overlooked this far? I have had it towed to 3 different shops and everyone is pretty much stumped. So I really cant afford to continue replacing things or guessing what should I do? Or what in the HELL is wrong with this car?
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I have a 2001 Honda Accord V6. The check engine light is on and occasionally the TCS light comes on for a few mins. then goes off. I've been to Autozone and used the diagnostic meter, it indicates a clogged or malfunctioning EGR Valve. I replaced the EGR Valve and reset the Check Engine light. The check engine light came back on. Is there some kind on engine cleaner I can use to clean out the the EGR Valve port?
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I own a Honda Accrod 2005 V6.
I don't know much about cars, but for the past year my clutch gradually started to just stick to the floor. I'm now at 80,000 miles, the clutch doesn't slip, and it for the most part drives fine with exception to this sticking. Sometimes when this happens, the stick shift stays in gear and I can't get the stick out of gear until the clutch has been lifted up and pushed back in. It is def getting worse. I have brought it to several mechanics.
I have been told by Honda that I need to replace the clutch set (clutch disc, pressure plate, and throw out bearing) and the clutch master and slave cylinder.After another mechanics look over, they also did confirm the same as honda but stated to get a new cut flywheel.
But after several other mechanics look-overs, they told me that the clutch is fine, so they recommended me to get the master and slave cylinders replaced.
So, trying to save money a mechanic told me to take one step at a time and see how it goes. He said he will bleed the slave and master cylinders and see if it is just an air pocket. That didn't work, so I trusted him and he replaced the master cylinder, but the problem still exists. He said the next thing to do is maybe to do a new slave cylinder. I'm now contemplating.
Another mechanic took a look after the work was done and said there is no leaking.
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I've had a wet passenger side rear floor in my Accord for the past year now when I run the A/C. Two mechanics including a Honda dealership have told me the A/C drain is not plugged. One of them ran compressed air through the drain and it seemed to be better for about a week and then started again. How to investigate the matter further. The floor does not smell like coolant. It just feels like and smells like water.
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My 95 Accord loses about a qt every 1,000 miles from a loose oil pan. I leave a little mess everywhere I park. I want to replace the pan gasket but can't reach the heads of two 10mm bolts that are partially covered by part of the transmission. How do I get them off? Are those babies actually holding on the pan, or are they not related?
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I bought a new Honda Accord v6. I drove it off the lot with 40 miles on it. The acceleration was fine when I bought it.
It now has over 500 miles on it, and the acceleration is terrible. When I'm at a stop light and the light turns green, it takes forever to get to 40mph unless I floor it. Honda Civics pass me at every light.
What could be the problem? I'm very concerned.
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We have a 2000 Honda Accord, standard shift, with 105,000 miles on it. The clutch has been sticking at the floor on random occasions (especially on hot days). Our mechanic (Honda Dealer) has not been able to correct the problem. Last summer he changed the clutch fluid and said that looked like the problem as it was vey dark. It corrected the problem for a few months but now it is happening again in the cold weather. It can happen at any time you depress the clutch, even while shifting when moving. Of course, then it is very difficult to get the car in gear. Our only solution is to manually pick up the clutch with hand or foot and this is dangerous in traffic.
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I have a 1995 Honda Accord EX with around 200k on it's odometer. I recently purchased two new tires. Today, I went to have the front end aligned. I was told that the alignment was so out of whack, that I needed to purchase some sort of "Alignment kit" for them to use. That in itself is going to set me back about $300. Something really seems fishy here. I've never had to have this done before at all on any of my vehicles. So what's the deal? Is this guy trying to rip me a new one? Or is this something I really have to purchase?
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It usually takes three times of trying to start before it actually completely starts,it starts then immediately stalls usually twice and on the third try it starts right up.
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I have a 1994 Honda Accord LX station wagon.. The problem is that When I go to turn the car on it cranks but takes a few times times for it to start up (then runs perfect) or even sometimes it won't start up at all but just keeps turning..(this happens every time I turn the car off and go to turn the car on again) I have just recently taken it to a local mechanic and got the fuel injectors changed.. But still the same problem arises.. One day I also went to turn the car off and i took out the key an the car kept running, i had to put the key back in and switch the key back and forth once again for it to finally turn off).
1. Main fuel relay
2. Fuel pump
3. Clogged fuel line or
4. Ignition switch
This car is my main source of transportation as of now!!
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I have a 1991 Accord LX wagon that is leaking coolant. I figured it out b/c there is a green fluid pooled on the floor behind the passenger's seat. Why would coolant be leaking there? I bought this car in February and have been nickeled and dimed ever since. I want to sell it and get something else but I want to get the coolant problem fixed first and need to know if this is going to be expensive.
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water leaks in under the rear seat when driving in the rain ,no rust spots but allso noticed thair is no mud flaps or any water gards around rear tires?
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My 95 Honda accord with 2.2 v tech suddenly started to SOMETIMES for periods of minuets to many hours, or days, start perfectly and die in 1/2 second. Later it will work fine for a while.
Car ran perfectly until one day it would not start.Turn key on, here fuel pump prime, CEL goes out after a second, then I turn over car and it starts...check engine light goes out... then comes back on a half to a 1/4 second later and car at same time light comes on, stops firing and dies. Dash lights stay on. Restart attempt will NOT give any start at all!..UNTIL you turn key off a second, then try again and it does start and die just as above. Key must be turned to off to get another restart and die. Sequential repeated attempts bring the same result. Walk away, for 15 minuets, or sometimes for hours, or days, and it starts and is fine again, and will restart multiple times in a row,... until you walk away again and come back...at which time it may again do the start and die pattern again. If it is in a start mood, you can drive it hours and it keeps running fine... if you turn it off... it is luck of the draw if it does the no start thing or will start for you and go.
- Main relay clicks in each time, fuel pump primes each time key turned off and back on.
- Keeping key in start does NOT cause motor to continue to fire or check engine light to stay off. Engine still dies in 1/2 second even as starter continues to crank.
- Check engine light is giving a code 15 for electrical issue when check is done.
- Took out main relay and re-soldered the connections on it.... it seems fine.
- Does not seem to be key contacts related to me, wiggle key, mess with key, etc. all you want has no effect. Holding key in start does not keep it running.
- It is almost like the computer kills the car after 1/2 second as it turns on check engine light.
I have seen other threads about this, but no clear answer, often people stop posting before telling what finally fixed it. One example is here:
car starts and dies immediately, then only cranks.
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Here is the issue with my car. It's a 1995 Honda Accord sedan, automatic transmission, inline 4. For the past 6 years or so, when you take a turn at a certain angle and a certain amount of acceleration and a certain amount of speed, it'll make something like a rhythmic grinding sound until you straighten the wheel and escape the turn. It happens far more often on left turns than right turns.
Adding to the oddity, say you are getting ready to take a left turn. Now if you are at a turn where the angle, acceleration and speed necessary to make the sound -- the sound can be completely avoided if you accelerate straight, let go of the accelerator, then use the momentum to turn, let the wheel straighten out to complete the turn, then begin to accelerate again.
A while ago I took it to a major repair center and they took out all the axles and some how concluded that it was the transmission. I really don't understand how it could be that, as the car shifts fine, and the sound never occurs when going straight. This past week, I took it to another mechanic, and he concluded that it was the axle shaft on the left side, maybe the axle shaft on the right.
So I had the left axle shaft replaced. I drove it home and didn't notice it, thought it worked; the mechanic himself drove the car around for hours after and didn't notice anything. Just to be sure, I take the car into a cul-de-sac that has the perfect turn angle to make the sound. Guess what, it's still there, albeit muted a little bit.
I am wondering if it's worth it to fix the other axle shaft, how it's possible that it could be the transmission, or if it's anything else that's possibly wrong. Again, this sound has been going on for years. I am completely frustrated and want it gone. I am thinking about making a video with the sound...
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