Honda - Accord :: 1995 - Just Keep Turning But Won't Startup
Sep 8, 2014
I have a 1994 Honda Accord LX station wagon.. The problem is that When I go to turn the car on it cranks but takes a few times times for it to start up (then runs perfect) or even sometimes it won't start up at all but just keeps turning..(this happens every time I turn the car off and go to turn the car on again) I have just recently taken it to a local mechanic and got the fuel injectors changed.. But still the same problem arises.. One day I also went to turn the car off and i took out the key an the car kept running, i had to put the key back in and switch the key back and forth once again for it to finally turn off).
1. Main fuel relay
2. Fuel pump
3. Clogged fuel line or
4. Ignition switch
This car is my main source of transportation as of now!!
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Here is the issue with my car. It's a 1995 Honda Accord sedan, automatic transmission, inline 4. For the past 6 years or so, when you take a turn at a certain angle and a certain amount of acceleration and a certain amount of speed, it'll make something like a rhythmic grinding sound until you straighten the wheel and escape the turn. It happens far more often on left turns than right turns.
Adding to the oddity, say you are getting ready to take a left turn. Now if you are at a turn where the angle, acceleration and speed necessary to make the sound -- the sound can be completely avoided if you accelerate straight, let go of the accelerator, then use the momentum to turn, let the wheel straighten out to complete the turn, then begin to accelerate again.
A while ago I took it to a major repair center and they took out all the axles and some how concluded that it was the transmission. I really don't understand how it could be that, as the car shifts fine, and the sound never occurs when going straight. This past week, I took it to another mechanic, and he concluded that it was the axle shaft on the left side, maybe the axle shaft on the right.
So I had the left axle shaft replaced. I drove it home and didn't notice it, thought it worked; the mechanic himself drove the car around for hours after and didn't notice anything. Just to be sure, I take the car into a cul-de-sac that has the perfect turn angle to make the sound. Guess what, it's still there, albeit muted a little bit.
I am wondering if it's worth it to fix the other axle shaft, how it's possible that it could be the transmission, or if it's anything else that's possibly wrong. Again, this sound has been going on for years. I am completely frustrated and want it gone. I am thinking about making a video with the sound...
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My 95 Accord loses about a qt every 1,000 miles from a loose oil pan. I leave a little mess everywhere I park. I want to replace the pan gasket but can't reach the heads of two 10mm bolts that are partially covered by part of the transmission. How do I get them off? Are those babies actually holding on the pan, or are they not related?
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In the last 2 weeks my 98 Honda Accord has started to hesitate when you start it up in the morning (or the first time for the day). It only hesitates for 2-3 seconds and catches and starts up fine the rest of the day. I know it's not the battery the battery is less than 2 years old and the battery plugs have been replaced recently as well. There is no check engine light flashing or anything saying there is a problem. What it might be? I can clarify that it isn't making the noise you'd associate with the battery being dead (trust me, I've been in the car with a dead battery and will never forget it!).
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My Accord has recently been stalling on start-up, and I'm trying to figure out if it's something I need to worry about. Here are more details:
It only happens sporadically (though more frequently recently), and only after the car is warmed up. The car starts up fine, but then a few seconds later the engine sputters and stalls. Second and third tries at starting it up are no different (still stalls). If I can get the car into gear and moving quickly enough (before it has a chance to stall), the car runs absolutely fine.
I took it to my regular mechanic and they, of course, were unable to reproduce the problem. They checked "everything" (including starter and fuel pump) and said it all tested "normal". It's otherwise running perfectly well.
My observation: the times when it stalls, it sounds/feels like the engine doesn't rev up enough to "catch" (non-technical explanation). I don't know a whole lot about cars, but this seems like a fuel pump issue, right? Maybe it's only acting up sporadically, which is why it tested normal at the shop?
An added mystery that probably doesn't have much to do with the problem, but that I find intriguing and would be perfect for Tom and Ray! 98% of the time, this happens when the car is parked in a parking garage. I can only remember 2 times that it's happened after being parked outside.
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I have a 1995 Honda Accord EX with around 200k on it's odometer. I recently purchased two new tires. Today, I went to have the front end aligned. I was told that the alignment was so out of whack, that I needed to purchase some sort of "Alignment kit" for them to use. That in itself is going to set me back about $300. Something really seems fishy here. I've never had to have this done before at all on any of my vehicles. So what's the deal? Is this guy trying to rip me a new one? Or is this something I really have to purchase?
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It usually takes three times of trying to start before it actually completely starts,it starts then immediately stalls usually twice and on the third try it starts right up.
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I changed the transmission (automatic) in a 94 Honda accord EX 4 cylinder and now it delays when starting. What I mean is if you stick the key in and try to start it normally it will just keep turning over. However if you wait about three seconds with the key in the ON posssition it will start right up like normal. Otherwise it drivers normally. I noticed the fuel pump isn't kicking on right away to prime the rail, but I didn't touch the fuel system when I changed the tranny out.
Transmission has the proper amount of OEM Honda fluid. CEL is on but I don't know how to check the codes on this OBD1 vehicle.
I am suspecting either a weak fuel pump or I missed something during installation. I double checked to make sure everything was plugged in properly on tranny.
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I've had my 2000 Honda Accord V6 for about 3 years now and have had an idling issue pretty much since I purchased it. After driving for at least 50+ miles, and if its hot out it can easily have this issue as well, and leaving the car be for around 15 to 30 minutes, on start up the car drops RPMs immediately and dies. Multiple tries and it will do the exact same thing. Recently I found out a trick to make it work correctly which is revving the engine to 2000RPM for about 3-4 minutes, slowly dropping it down to 1500 RMP for around the same 3-4 minutes and finally down to 1000 RPM for an additional 3-4 minutes and letting off the gas. Usually after doing this the engine idles fine, car drives great. However, it must be noted that on Summer days with temperatures in the 85+ range, if I'm climbing (going up a hill for a long distance) the car might bog down on me, will not go above 50MPH and I have to pull off the side of the road for 45+ minutes before the car will run correctly again. This has happened about 3 or 4 times in the 3 years I've owned the car.
I would rather not have to rev the engine in hopes this fixes the issue each time so I'm wondering what could be the cause in the first place? I've replaced so many things including spark plugs, ignition coils, battery, idle air control valve, gasket, fuel pump, fuel pump relay and on. I gas the car up with Chevron gasoline, I've dumped in I don't know how many different fuel injector cleaners and have also tried Heet as well as Sea Foam cleaner. I've also had the car checked for vacuum leaks.
I've asked multiple mechanics if this could possibly be a vapor lock issue, but they all turn that idea down. They tell me that since the car is fuel injected this can't be the issue..but, I don't know, could it be the issue?
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water leaks in under the rear seat when driving in the rain ,no rust spots but allso noticed thair is no mud flaps or any water gards around rear tires?
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Have 1995 Honda Accord with apx. 231,000 miles and needs all new break lines under the car. Honda Dealer states 12 hours of labor at $100 per hour. Should I go elsewhere or sell the car for $600 to the parts guy at the dealership offering to buy it since I wont pay the cost at this point to fix the car? Gas lines are all fine underneath by the way - I asked them to look since they could go next I would assume.
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My 95 Honda accord with 2.2 v tech suddenly started to SOMETIMES for periods of minuets to many hours, or days, start perfectly and die in 1/2 second. Later it will work fine for a while.
Car ran perfectly until one day it would not start.Turn key on, here fuel pump prime, CEL goes out after a second, then I turn over car and it starts...check engine light goes out... then comes back on a half to a 1/4 second later and car at same time light comes on, stops firing and dies. Dash lights stay on. Restart attempt will NOT give any start at all!..UNTIL you turn key off a second, then try again and it does start and die just as above. Key must be turned to off to get another restart and die. Sequential repeated attempts bring the same result. Walk away, for 15 minuets, or sometimes for hours, or days, and it starts and is fine again, and will restart multiple times in a row,... until you walk away again and come back...at which time it may again do the start and die pattern again. If it is in a start mood, you can drive it hours and it keeps running fine... if you turn it off... it is luck of the draw if it does the no start thing or will start for you and go.
- Main relay clicks in each time, fuel pump primes each time key turned off and back on.
- Keeping key in start does NOT cause motor to continue to fire or check engine light to stay off. Engine still dies in 1/2 second even as starter continues to crank.
- Check engine light is giving a code 15 for electrical issue when check is done.
- Took out main relay and re-soldered the connections on it.... it seems fine.
- Does not seem to be key contacts related to me, wiggle key, mess with key, etc. all you want has no effect. Holding key in start does not keep it running.
- It is almost like the computer kills the car after 1/2 second as it turns on check engine light.
I have seen other threads about this, but no clear answer, often people stop posting before telling what finally fixed it. One example is here:
car starts and dies immediately, then only cranks.
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My friend has a question about his 2001 Honda 2 dr. Accord, V6. After he first starts the car and backs straight or turns, there is a bad sound near the passenger front side, maybe in near the wheel. Once the car has been started, say, and he goes forward and then backs up there is no noise. But the first time out of the parked position, it is very noticeable. He said he has noticed it almost a year. Is the transaxle a problem? Is it dangerous.. only on the first startup and back up and it ends shortly, but sounds bad. It is not with brake application either, so not a brake pad I don't think and he has those checked and replaced, so don't know what to think.
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I have a 95 Accord EX, 4 cylinder with ABS. The brake pedal goes to the floor about once a month, all times of year (I'm in Minnesota). I had the brakes bled last summer, but that didn't work. The ABS light has been on for probably 10 years. When I talked to my mechanic he said the ABS system, even though it's not working, could be a cause of the problem because fluid is still traveling through that system. He said most likely a master cylinder, but no guarantees. He said it could also be one of the brake lines. About 120k miles on it. What are the odds that it's the master cylinder?
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Every time I try to start my 95 Honda Accord, there is a fast clicking sound and the car will not start. All of the interior lights come on, and the car is full of gas, so I'm not quite sure what the problem might be. My car did start before we were hit with all of this snow in MA, but now it's not.Why my car will not start?
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My right upper ball joint on my 1995 Honda Accord Wagon is squeaking loudly. How long can I go before I have to replace it, especially when winter averages in the teens. I drive 250 miles a month in a small town. Can squeak when I go around turns, over bumps.
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I have a 95 honda accord 2.2L, 135,000 miles. One day while sitting at a light the car started vibrating due to a rough idle problem. The idle speed is ok at about 750 rpm.
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I have a 95 Honda Accord V6, the D4 light is flashing and the speedometer needle does not work. When in stop and go traffic, the needle bounces around and makes the car stall and downshift and rev up. I replaced the speed sensor with no change.
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On my 95 Honda Accord 4-door (>400K miles), every time the doors are locked, the servos click 25 to 60 times about once a second. Like a loud ticking clock. The doors are locked OK, but the clicks sound like the mechanism is wearing itself out. Is there an easy fix? It may be related to installation a few weeks ago of a new alarm system that included a remote control lock. I haven't had time to have the alarm company look at it.
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I recently had my radiator replaced on my 1992 accord lx. Now I have notice that my temp. gage starts to climb up. All of the hoses are not leaking. I was wondering could this be a relay problem or a switch or motor fan. The a/c fan does come on when it is engaged.
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Right now, 1 out of every 3 attempts at starting this car results in the starter motor not turning over. When it does turn over, the engine fires up just fine. Tried putting the transmission range switch in Neutral and it makes no difference. In neutral or park, when the starter does not run and with the volt meter on the starter solenoid terminal there is no 12 volts . Looking at the electrical diagram of the starting system, it appears that I have a bad ignition switch or bad starter cut relay.
I think I will opt for the starter cut relay first because the ignition switch seems like a daunting task. But I don't know where this relay is located. Did some research on the web and it seems it should be near the fuse block which is located under the dash on the left hand side of the drivers position. I see the fuse block and above it is a 1 x 2 inch gray block that looks like it could be the relay in question. I can just reach it but can't seem to pull it out. Need toconfirm that this is indeed the relay, how to get it out, I can bench test it.
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