Honda - Accord :: 2000 - Shaking And Sometimes Stalls Out / Cylinder 2 Misfire
Aug 16, 2014
I have a 4cl- 2000 Honda Accord about 160,000 miles on it. I have been having a shaking problem with my engine when it starts up after warm. If I drive more then 20 minutes, stop my car, to say go run an errand, and then come back and turn it on, it shakes and sometimes stalls out. I notice that the RPMs don't go above 1000 and waiver below that. When I do get it going, I have to tap on the gas a bit to get it to regulate. On longer drives after I stop it, it won't start and have to leave it sit for about 20 min. and then get it started by tapping the gas.
The check engine light that did come on has been checked as a cylinder 2 misfire. Sometimes it will flash and sometimes it will not come on.
I have new wires and spark plugs. A 3 year old timing belt. No vacuum leaks or gas line leaks. (all been checked by a mechanic).
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Well, I have been through the tech folder and all over the forum reading but cant seem to come up with a good first step. When i accelerate the truck shakes, by the sound it seems that its missing a cylinder. I guess it could also be the motor mounts. Besides replacing the plugs and coils, is there something else that could remedy a misfires or dead cylinder?
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I have a 2000 honda v7 coupe and recently I've been having problems starting it. Generally when I drive to work in the morning it's fine. However if I am running errands and make many stops then it isn't. After stopping at one place I start my car like usual, then the RPMs rise, the car rumble, and then it stops. However if i pump the gas then it is fine. When I am driving then I have no issues and the car runs smoothly. I recently had a major maintenance and also told them about this problem. They said that they couldn't diagnose it since I didn't bring it in with the problem.
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My car shakes when I start the engine, and continues to shake, it doesn't matter what gear I'm in. It also smells like gas when I get out of the car. Since my check engine light is blinking, and with all I've heard on the show, next step is to to take it to a mechanic. My question is, would it be okay to drive it 5 miles to a mechanic, or should I have it towed? Someone said it may be a misfire, and to change the spark plugs?
2000 Honda Accord Ex 6 Cylinder 163K on the mileage....
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I just felt that my 2005 Santa fe shakes when idle in front of a traffic light today, later on the check engine light illuminated. Drove to a Monro shop right way and diagnosis using their professional OBD reader, it turns out that the Cylinder 3 and Cylinder 6 are misfiring according to the OBD scan result.
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Ford F150 1999 5.4 XLT... I've had this truck since may 2013 from the 2nd owner who only drove it
occasionally to make sure it ran. For the last 5 weeks there have been two occasions where my service engine light appeared...once on 12/28/15 and again today. Both read cylinder 4 misfire. Upon searching this piece which I'm assuming is the boot that covers or houses the spark plug is very unsecure and causes a shaking feeling as I accelerate or idle. Being so far back I can't reach it with extensions on a ratchet and barely fit my hand back there. Having to consider taking it into a shop for further analysis and repair but I'm trying to save as much money as possible as I am in between jobs since mid January. I have a picture attached...
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I have a honda accord 2003 ex. I bought the car over a year ago. A couple months in with the car i started to feel that the car vibrates while in idle. I replace the motor mounts and the shaking is still there. When i drive the car at night with the headlights on the shaking gets worse. If i put it in neutral sometimes there is no shaking and sometimes you can feel it a little bit. Also, in the summer when i turn on the ac the shaking gets so much worse, even if i put it in neutral the shaking is still pretty bad. One more thing, when i turn on the heat and put the car in neutral there is not too much shaking. I just don't know what to do anymore.
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So I have been unable to figure this problem out and so had my mechanic, I am starting to think this car is cursed. I have an 07 outback with about 54000 miles on it, a few weeks ago it through a P0303 for a misfire in the third cylinder, thought nothing of it, light went off in the next couple starts and the car was running great. Had this happen a couple more times but only after the car had been out in the rain. Each time the problem went away. Now the car has sat in my garage for four days, I got out to start it and get an extremely long crank but no turn over. Try again and after 5-6 seconds car turns over but is running really rough and stalls out. Disconnected the battery checked hoses, everything looked normal, reconnected the battery and now the car is running fine.
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I recently purchased 4 brand new michelin tires. They are approximately 3 months old now. Beginning a couple weeks ago, my car started shaking profusely at 60mph when accelerating. When I let off the gas, it would stop. I went and got a tire balance thinking that was the problem... but it's still happening, and now it starts at about 55mph. I have no clicking sounds when turning the wheel, and my car runs great besides this! What this could be?
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My 1990 Honda Accord just recently started sputtering and shaking a bit when I reach 1500 rpms, if I'm under that she's fine and if I accelerate passed that she is fine.
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My 1989 Honda Accord LX, with 135,000 miles on it, stalls after a few minutes of driving. Then, after re-starting, it stalls before I even have a chance to put it into drive. My mechanic replaced an electric base plate gasket in the carburetor but warned me that this repair might not fix the problem. If it didn't, I probably would need to replace the carburetor -- if one could be found for a 1989 model. Well, I still have the problem. My question: Is it worth it to invest $1,500, more or less, for a carburetor for a 22-year-old car? I've been using it strictly as a second car for the last 11 or 12 years. It seems to be in good shape otherwise.
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Why my 92Honda accord lx stalls when the d4 light flashes
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My car keeps on shaking at times, sometimes it is perfect all day. If it is shaking and I come to a light it stops. I have been to several mechanics and they all say something different.
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I own a 1999 Honda Accord w/160K miles. This past summer my car would occasionally stall while driving at slow speeds (when the car, an automatic transmission, was in low gear). Usually I'd be able to start it right back up with no problems. In some cases I'd have to hold the ignition switch for about three seconds. As the weather cooled in the autumn (I live in New England) the problem disappeared. However, in the last couple of weeks the problem has started up again only now I have trouble restarting the car. I have to wait a couple of minutes before it'll start up again. It has the feel of a flooded engine. The car also idles rather low...at around 800 rpm. I don't think it's a battery or alternator because all of the electric apps.(power locks, windows, radio, etc.) work after the car stalls. I'm bringing my car in for regular maintenance but would like to know what to tell my mechanic to look for.
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2005 Honda Accord.
Problem 1: Now that is is finally getting below freezing and I am having to use my heat, and I have noticed that it will all of a sudden blow ice cold air. It does not matter if I am idle / accelerating / decelerating. I must provide a disclaimer... I have not had to use the heat in the car since I purchased it Certified Used from the dealer in South Florida. After moving back to where it actually gets cold I find this issue. I had my trusty mechanic look at it and he flushed the heater core. That is problem 1.
Problem 2: For about 6 months now my car has been doing this odd shaking routine. It happens probably every time I am out driving. When it starts to shake, I can prevent it from dying by revving the engine. It does not matter if I have just started the car, am sitting at idle or if I am driving down the road. No check engine light or malfunction indicator light has come on the entire time. It feels like the car just runs hard, not nice and smooth like it used to. I have brought my car in to the trusty mechanic three times now and he can not find any problems. I did notice this morning that while sitting idle at the stop light, my car had its little epileptic shake and then stopped and the RPM's dropped to 500.
Later when I arrived at my destination, while sitting at idle before getting out of the car, the RPM's were at 2000. I have routinely put in fuel injector cleaner additive when I fill up with gas... maybe once a month. I usually fill up with regular gas, but will occasionally fill up with premium. This whole situation is blowing my mind!
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This is for a 2002 Honda Accord, SE 4 Cyl.
For over a year I have been getting a CEL for a misfire of Cylinders 1 and 2. I did a standard tune up, Changing the spark plugs, wires and distributor cap, but to no avail. Having reached the end of my knowledge, I took it to the Honda dealership to see if they could fix it. They told me it was the ignition coil, so I replaced the coil. That didn't solve the problem so I brought it back to the dealership, which proceeded to tell me that I needed to use Honda spark plug wires and distributor cap. They replaced the wires and cap with Honda parts and told me it was fixed. On the drive home, I noticed the misfire again. Back to the dealership. 2 weeks later I finally get sick of waiting and go pick up my car. Here's the list of things they claim they tried:
Compression Check
Sea Foam
Swapping fuel injectors
Changing the distributor
After none of these things worked, I decided to take the car to another mechanic, who told me that the distrubutor and EGR valve needed replacing. They assured me that that was the problem, but after that didn't work, they still charged me to adjust the valves.
Later I tried changing the PCV valve, now losing hope that anything would work....and no, that didn't work.
Strangely enough, as winter rolled around the CEL went off, and the car misfired much less. Now summer is back, and so is the CEL...
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Cylinder 2 Change plugs, change injector, change Cat and Change OX senor, check compression 165 psi Still can't get this misfire engine light problem to go a way.
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1999 Accord, 110k mi., stalls while driving or stopped a few times a week, then takes a couple of minutes to turn over. Mechanic replaced or cleaned main relay, fuel pump, and ignition module. Could sell it but recently rebuilt tranny and replaced timing belt. Mechanic is stumped.
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1999 Honda Accord LX 4 cylinder 126k milesWhen my car runs, it works very well. Sometimes, though, it stalls - just shuts off. When I try to restart it, it turns over, but immediately stops, almost as if it gets no gas. I keep trying, and eventually it starts, but it can take more than 30 tries. It has happened when the car is cold and when it is fully warmed up. It has happened while traveling at 10 MPH and while going 75 on the Mass Pike. It's happened in warm weather and cold, while the sun shone and during rain storms. The car might run perfectly for 3 days, but then stall 4 times on my way home from work. This has been going on for more than a year, but has become much more frequent in the last couple of months.
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I have a 1983 Honda Accord (manual with nearly 200,000 miles) when rolling to a stop or at a stop rpms drop below 1000 and it stalls out. I can start it back up without hesitation.No hesitation at initial startup or after sitting short or long time, it idles while in park rpms about 1000.When I feel the engine about to stall while rolling to a stop or at stop, if I put my left foot on the brake pedal, slightly step on the gas pedal with my right foot it prevents the engine from stalling. At stop if I put in park, rpms raise and don’t need to give it gas.
I'm unable [& unqualified] to work on my car. Given I drive only about 1,000 mi year; my alternate form of transportation is a bus or kindness of friends, I’m on a limited income, cannot afford to buy/ spend more than 2,000 -- my question if 2-foId, 1. is it possible that something it is nothing major and worth repairing/replacing (ex. air control/idle air bypass valve, a dirty throttle body or even carburetor)?2. Or, as discussed with one mechanic, since the car is 33 years old, during or soon after repair other problems (dried out vacuum hoses or major) will follow. Plus, parts can be difficult if not impossible to replace as a I spoke to mechanic pointed out.Given the car’s age is it worth repairing?
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2002 Honda Accord, 4 cyl., will stall unexpectedly when coming to a stop or slowing down. It will start to shake and hesitate as one is slowing down from 35+ mph, then will stall at the stop. Has some trouble restarting, but when it does, everything seems to be fine. No codes are left, and my mechanic suspects dirt or something similar is contacting the fuel injector(s) on a sporadic basis. I did replace the spark plugs as they were due at the time this first showed up, but it has happened twice since in a 3 month period.
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