Honda Civic :: 1999 - Brakes Failed After Rear Brake Replacement
Jul 28, 2016
My car is a 1999 Honda Civic.
This morning I went in for a state inspection, oil change and rear brake replacement. Driving home while going downhill on the highway, I hit the brakes - and they failed completely. At first it felt like the car actually bucked forward. I tried flooring the brake, but felt no resistance and the car didn't stop. I kept my foot off the gas and coasted to a stop.
The tow truck driver told me he could feel a problem just getting the car onto the tow truck, and again when he took it off.
The Honda place checked it and did a test drive, found nothing.They said it couldn't be air in the brakes be took me for a short test drive and assured me I'd be fine. The
I headed home again and the brakes failed again at almost the same spot. This time it wasn't a complete failure. After no resistance at first, the brakes "caught" though somewhat mushily. I put on my flashers and kept going, at about 45 mph. Got off the highway and had to crawl because braking wasn't taking effect immediately. But as I drove on at 10 mph, they began working again. Not as well as they should, but enough to get me home.
It seems the brakes fail after 15 - 20 minutes of driving at 65 mph. They work better after a rest and at slower speeds.
If it makes a difference, my compressor is gone, so the car doesn't have a/c, and it is hot out so I'm wondering if the heat is affecting something. However, I haven't had these brake problems until today.
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The parking brake on my 99 honda civic won't fully disengage. If you use it when you go to put the lever down it pops back up slightly. Just barely one click and sometimes not even that. I just replaced the rear brake drums, shoes, wheel cylinders, and it was badly needed. I thought that this would solve my parking brake problem as well, but after I got everything back together and the car on the road the problem persisted.
I saw in the Hayne's manual for the car the parking brake can be adjusted from underneath the armrest. So would an adjustment fix my problem? If loosened would the brake stay down when not in use and still work when I need it? I also saw as part of the procedure the manual has you put the rear end on jack stands. If you are just tightening or loosening a cable why would the back wheels need to be off the ground? Is this absolutely necessary?
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I have a 2002 Honda Civic EX 1.7L. Recently the brake pedal would sometimes go to the floor when I'd apply the brakes. The car would still stop, but not as quickly as normally. If I apply the brake and it goes to the floor I would release the pedal and reapply the brake and it would stop at it's normal position and the brakes felt firm and the car would stop fine. I was told my problem was the master cylinder so I bought one on Sunday and replaced it. I bled the lines and it seemed like all the air was out. The brakes worked great and the pedal stopped in the same place and was firm.
Now today on my way to work the pedal went down a little farther than normal during one stop. On the way home it stopped in different places. The brakes would always grab and the pedal felt fairly firm wherever it stopped. I drove it this evening again and the pedal went to the floor like with the old master cylinder. One pump and they grabbed in the normal spot. What is going on? Did I not bleed the lines well enough? Is the new master cylinder just junk? I saw in the manual that air can get trapped in the ABS sensor, but an air bubble problem should just make the pedal squishy, not change where it grabs, right? I'm stumped and I really don't want to take my car in if I can fix it.
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My car, a 2009 Civic, has started sounding like an airplane when I brake, just in the last day or so. Sometimes the noise continues for a little bit after I'm off the brake and moving again, but mostly not. Obviously, I'm going to get it in to the shop, but my question is do I need to take off work and do it today / tomorrow (Tuesday / Wednesday), or will it probably be OK if I wait until Saturday morning?
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What size sockets do I need in order to complete a brake pad replacement for my rear brakes?
Also, what are the torque specs for each bolt I will be refastening?
And just in case a bolt breaks... what size bolts are used on the calipers?
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How much should it cost to have it replaced? car seems to be running just fine but leaking oil.
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I took my 2009 F150 XLT 4.6 into the dealership to have front and rear brakes replaced at 77,000 miles. Brakes were down to 3mm. They also did a complete brake flush. They called after the brake job was done and said the ABS system failed and needed to replace ABS module. Given I didn't have any problems with ABS before bringing it into the dealership, what is the chance the brake repair screwed up something with the ABS that they caused?
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I replaced the master cylinder 2 months ago and now every now and then the rear lock up for a second. its only happened a couple of times. Pulled the wheels and everything is in place with nominal wear with clean drums and rotors. Am at a loss as to why this is happening.
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Today, for the first time, my 2007 CRV suddenly failed to respond to an acceleration attempt after I had to suddenly press on the brake on a highway. Both meters seemed to respond and moved in some way but the car was either non-responsive or was slowing down. It all took 30-60 seconds until the car went back to normal on its own without even stopping. What could have caused it? Normally, I would probably wait until it happens again to start worrying but since I drive with my child most of the time, I don't want to take any chances.
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A few years ago I (for him) replaced all 4 calipers, rotors, pads, etc....things were good. Just recently he replaced his Brake Booster and Master Cylinder (not sure what led to this), but long story short everything is back together and he doesn't have brakes.
My GUESS is that the system needs a good flush, new fluid, etc....
My problem is I'm unsure how to bleed the ABS system. A few google searched indicate I need a scan tool, but is there another way? Can I jump something.
So my question, how do I completely bleed the brake system on this truck?
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I had the oil changed on my 2002 Civic at the Honda garage. They said the pan was badly rusted out and beginning to leak and that the pipe (exhaust pipe?) would also fall apart from rust when they went to change the oil pan. They said it was unsafe to drive in the meantime because the pan is so soft. If the pan springs a leak, I can just pull over and get a tow, right? I hadn't even noticed the leakage, it's minor. I'll take it to an independent garage for an estimate, but what should I be expecting for something like this?And can I safely drive it around town in the meantime?
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Any way to detect if I could be facing bigger issues like failed bearings? I am OK to do the head replacement but an engine replacement starts to get into the realm of what it would cost to get another car of the same age.
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Is this a wheel bearing/brake issue? Would needing new spark plugs have any impact on this?
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