2006 Honda Element 2.4 ... I developed an unknown bad oil leak. Low oil indicator light did not come on. Highway drove it down to one qt. Now blowing blue smoke and lost power. Why my oil light did not come on?
Also, I have needed a purge control valve for quite some time. Could this of caused the oil leak?
My 06 accent GLS has become difficult to start only after refueling, which I'm guessing is related to a bad purge control valve from what I've read. Where exactly is the valve located, and is this something that someone with relatively little automotive repair experience could do on their own? I think I've located it on the backside of the engine near the air intake.
View 2 RepliesThe purge valve keep clicking means it is fail?
View 2 RepliesI need the PCM pinout for a 2002 F150 4.6 For the Purge Control Valve Circuit. If possible the wire schematic would be nice also. Getting code PO443 (( hard code )) I have checked battery voltage at valve connector with key on (( 12.2 volts )) valve resistance is at be 35 ohms so I'm thinking I may have a bad wire or a bad PCM .
View 2 RepliesI recently got a check engine light. I went and got it checked, the person said its the canister purge valve that needs to be replaced. Where it is located and the difficulty replacing it. The part is cheap and I want to replace it this weekend. 2007 elantra
View 2 RepliesWhere are the canister and solenoid valve located, above the tank? 2009 Sonata 2.4L ....
View 1 RepliesCylinder 2 Change plugs, change injector, change Cat and Change OX senor, check compression 165 psi Still can't get this misfire engine light problem to go a way.
View 5 RepliesHow do I remove my Honda Element's crankshaft pulley so I can replace the water pump? How hard is this job?
Another question. After removing the wheel and some plastic and looking at the pump I wondered why my Honda manual says I need to remove the crankshaft pulley at all?
My 2006 honda element was taken into a national tire and repair service that I use often . Told them to check my brakes for grinding sound. They concluded that the brakes were safe but could remove a rust or glazing for x dollars. I refused after they said again they were safe. 9 days and 400 miles later ( going to pick a cemetery plot for my dad ). I felt something funny on my front end .
(Out of nowhere ) at driving slow to make my appt . BANG, my front tire flies off across 4 lanes of traffic . Luckily I was nearly in front of a repair shop. They took it, I and told them to repair it and got a ride to my appt. The next day it was done for 400.00 .. It needed a new wheel because the holes were elongated and various parts . Upon returning to my initial repair shop to get a wheel alignment. They feel it could not be their fault when they removed my tires initially because of the 400 miles since they checked my brakes .
About a month ago the "Check VSC" warning came on in my 2006 GS300 AWD. This happened after the car was in the garage all night and when I started the car in the morning. The car was at the dealer for 2 days and the saved codes showed multiple errors for the evap system, but they couldn't find anything specifically wrong and the light warning went off after all the systems checked out.
A week later the warning came on again, and the codes indicated incorrect purge flow and a gross leak. After 3 days in the shop they decided that the problem was caused by a faulty gas cap, which was replaced. You guessed it! A week later the warning came on AGAIN! I'm taking the car to the shop on Thursday. I'm really getting tired of driving my car 40 miles to the dealer just to have the warning show up again in another week!
I have difficulty starting after I fill the tank (usually to about 3/4 fill, not topping off.)
I searched the forums and noticed the evap. system N-80 purge valve may be the culprit. Other VW's have the issue including one thread on a Touareg.
I think I'm the first with this issue on a Phaeton. Sometimes getting loose gas cap faults too and on occasion a CEL. I had a fuel pump replaced last week, but this problem predates the pump failure.
Does this sound like the issue here? Doesn't it throw a code? I'm wondering why they didn't discover it when the diag'ed the bad fuel pump.
I have a 2001 saturn l200 2.2... Well I put the new EVAP Purge Valve in last night.. Today I start the car and started to clicking so I unplug the new EVAP Purge Valve and it stop clicking and i plug it back in and started clicking..
View 6 RepliesLooking for the location of purge valve on a 2003 aviator ?
View 8 RepliesI only have 2200 miles on my new 2012 Passat SE V6 and the check engine light came on the other morning. I took it in to the dealer and they found codes P0442 (EVAP Emission Control System Small Leak Detected) and P0456 (EVAP Emission Control System Very Small Leak Detected). The tech says on the work order that he removed and tested the EVAP Purge Valve with a vacuum pump and the valve would not hold a vacuum. The dealer replaced the EVAP Purge Valve under warranty. They say this is the first 2012 passat V6 they've seen with this issue. I've only had the car for 4 weeks.
View 5 RepliesI just had my 3rd Canister purge valve installed a month and a half ago, and it's already dead.
I noticed while I was driving that it was constantly pulsing after the engine warmed up, and continued to do so as long as I was driving.** This did not seem normal to me (I can hear it in the cab).
The solenoid is burning up and measures open circuit. No codes are thrown during the time it continues to pulse, but when it burned up again, the 3 codes (P0441 Incorrect Purge Flow, P0440 Solenoid Failure, P0443 Purge Valve Circuit Trouble) are immediately thrown? indicating the solenoid is fried.
The system runs a series of tests during normal operation, so if there was a problem with an actual leak or clog, it should show up as a test failure code, but does not. My inclination is that the problem is a sensor.
Engine light came on a week ago, finally made it in to get the code pulled yesterday : P0441
From reading on this site, thinking its a faulty purge valve.
I have found pics of its location on an 04, but cant seem to find it on my 08 2.7L.
So sometime last week my check engine light came on. Took my 13 Accent to the dealership and they said the purge valve is to be replaced. Now my Accent pings when running 87 gas and I read that others (not necessarily Accent owners) who changed their purge valve noticed the pinging go away.
View 5 RepliesReplacing part 9C915 ?
"CODE P0443 canister purge fault" diagnosed....
Found: EVAP PURGE FLOW VALVE STICKING
Recommending: "Diag, Replace sensor then retest" ....
They want to install a new 9C915 which they called in hand writing a Canister purge sensor but I've seen it called a canister purge valve on another thread by FIREME who puts 9C915 as "toward the driver's headlight assembly, near the radiator. You'll need an 8mm socket to remove it"...
3.0L DURATEC FFV V6 ENGINE
From the "newly washed ashore" who's now double posting after being flogged for trying to keep this info in a single thread rather than spreading it all over the place...
Have a 2012 gas powered Escape XLT, 2.5L 4 cylinder.
I need to replace the evap purge valve. Looking at youtube videos and from other posts it seems easy to replace. My problem is where is it located on this Escape?
Is it under the hood or underneath the driver's side? This is just the valve mind you, not the canister in the back.
My Ex is throwing a P1451 Canister Vent Purge valve issue. Is the canister for the Ex hidden on the frame above the gas tank? I looked around the frame in the back of the truck but am having no luck finding it so I'm guessing ill have to drop the tank to get to it. I've read that wire chafing for this valve could be the problem.
View 3 RepliesMy car does not start (cranks only) after I clean the fuel injector and intake manifold.
so I check the spark with tester and it is fine.then I check the fuel pressure with tester and the pressure shoots to over 42 psi without starting (normal between 38 and 46 psi) and slowly drops to 10 psi. I install fuel injector (FI) with new o-ring and gasket and there is no leakage aroung them. the fuel pressure regulator is ok. I got one from junk yard and the test show the same.
I notice there is some gas inside TB and only way to leak the gas is the FI body valve. I took all FI out and notice #2 and #3 are wet on the FI nozzle tip and use small string to push air through and can see some fluid coming out from the nozzle tip.
I thought I clean it well and do not know if this can be fixed by more cleaning. the resistance is all the same at 12.6 ohms under room temp at night in north CA.