Hyundai - Elantra :: 2013 - Thunk Sound And Lurch When Release Foot From Brake Pedal To Go Into Drive
Aug 17, 2014
After driving in the rain and starting the car again after a few hours (as in starting the car again after work, or starting it first thing in the morning) the following happens: As soon as I release my foot from the brake pedal to go into "drive," there is a "thunk" sound from the rear of the car as well as a lurch. A soft "thunk" may have a soft 'thunk" sound, but a louder thunk will have a pronounced lurch/jerkiness from the rear. The car drives OK and has no problem with braking when I apply the brakes.
It happens only after driving in the rain. The dealer says the sound and movement are the normal result with disc brakes wearing off the rust on the rotors. Other wet weather concern (happened once): while driving in a couple inches of snow, the brakes began to grind and eventually failed to bring the car to a stop. Dealer rotated the rear rotors (due to uneven wear, although I had the car only two weeks at the time) and installed new rear brake pads. He said grinding brakes on an Elantra are normal in rainy, snowy, and dusty conditions. Is my car really safe to drive? Is there a problem? I'm considering trading it it as I don't feel safe. It is an otherwise OK car.
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I just bought a 2013 Passat SE 2.5 about a month ago. Since driving it home I have noticed that the brake pedal sort of sticks when I let my foot up off it. It doesn't happen during hard braking, just normal to light, especially when I'm riding the brake in heavy traffic. When I lightly press the pedal in, it feels like something is sticking and again when I let off it has the same feeling and it will sometimes not come up with my foot, but it rather slaps/taps the bottom of my foot while returning to position.
I took the car back to the dealer to check out and of course the service tech didn't feel what I felt. So the let me drive a loaner Passat, same model, and I felt the SAME sensation in its brake pedal. At the time I just chalked it up to "that just must be how these are", but it's kind of annoying and I don't totally feel it's right. What is causing this?
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I have a brand new 2010 Passat. I am unable to achieve a smooth start from stops and the car will lurch forward when I take my foot off the brake. Any small input from the gas pedal produces a jumpy start to the acceleration process. I have about 300 miles on the car. I bought this for my wife and she is very uneasy about driving it.
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When I take my foot off the brake pedal quickly, like after a stoplight has turned green, the brake pedal makes a “clump!” sound. I have looked at the pedal mechanism and it is for sure coming from that area. It sounds as if a rubber bumper should be there, but is not. When I take my foot off more slowly, no sound comes from the area. Is this something I need to put on my 5K checkup list? My car has 1700 miles on it now.
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Is it all the lexus rx350 had that noise? From the day I noticed hissing noise when I gentally press the brake pedal down and release it . And same noise can be heard when drive slowly and release gas pedal.
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Quick background. 1+ years ago I'd sometimes get the "moo" when in reverse. It was intermittent and never enough or a persistent issue to address. Recently, no moo, but I noticed when I'd release the parking brake and move forward there'd be a minor hesitation and an audible thunk, not too pronounced, then it'd roll freely from then forward.
Replaced rear brakes a few weeks ago, noticed the right side parking brake arm doesn't reset as far free as the left. Pushing it 'home' by hand made a little thunk in the cable house up near where it bends towards the vehicle's midline. Brakes installed, and it spun freely by hand with perhaps only a very small amount of 'hiss' but not consistent for a full revolution, only periodically. Lubed both cables from the center console.
Last night installed parking brake return springs, set and released the parking brake a few times to see how it felt. Right side looks like it still does not return home 100% (maybe, 2-3mm away, same as before). Today, made a run to Napa. Got there fine, when leaving, drop the parking brake, and as I'm grabbing reverse I get a yellow dash light and a "check brake pads" warning. I drove about a block, pulled over, shut off engine, got underneath (no parking brake set) and the arm seemed to sit about where it should. I drove a few miles at low speed, pulled over (left engine running, set parking brake), checked temp of all rotors (both sides) with my finger, nothing noticeable. Drove a few more, repeated the above (engine running, brake set) and temps were still cool.
Got home, replaced fans. Started up to test fans, and the error isn't there now.
If it was going to throw an error I'd more likely expect it when leaving home, where I had cycled the parking brake handle multiple times. No error there, or en route to Napa. Leaving Napa, parking brake engaged only once, I got the error. Powering off and restarting, it was still there. Successive stops did not have the engine shut off. Once home, it cleared.
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Working on a 2002 Hyundai Elantra GT. 4 disc, no ABS. Problem is the brake pedal goes to the floor without much force. I bled all 4 lines, but no improvement. Rigid lines from the brake master cylinder to the rear wheels were very corroded, so I ran new lines. The old ones pretty much fell apart when I took them off the car. I also replaced the brake master cylinder. I tried to bleed the brakes again, but couldn't get much (if any) fluid pressure at any of the wheels. Yes, I found a couple leaks at the junction points for the rigid lines, but I re-flanged those connections and got rid of all the leaks. Still no real pressure when trying to bleed.
So, I tried a second, then a third master cylinder with a new attached resevoir. No improvement. I bench bled the snot out of this third master cylinder because the symptoms clearly suggest air was likely trapped somewhere in the system. I used a wood dowel to fully actuate the cylinder many times after all the air had been released while I had short clear hoses running from the master cylinder outlets into a little plastic cup filled with clean brake fluid. I wanted to make sure there was no way air could be in the MC, and no air drawn back in when I released the wood dowel.
Next, I quickly capped off the MC outlets and connected a hose to each brake line individually where they normally screw into the MC. I then let clear fluid drain through each line until it was spilling out clear of each caliper bleeder with no air bubbles. So, no lines are kinked, clogged, or contain air.
I took every precaution to keep air out of the system, yet when I push the brake pedal, there is still virtually no real pressure generated by the MC. The power booster rod is shoving the master cylinder in as it should. I don't think there's any problem with the power booster.
I've used gravity bleeding, manual "push & hold the brake pedal" bleeding, vacuum bleeding, and I'm certain there is no air in the lines or calipers. Still no significant pressure coming from the MC when I push & hold the brake pedal to the floor. It takes maybe 20-25 pounds of foot pressure, but always goes completely to the floor with all the bleeders closed. If the pedal is held to the floor, fluid slowly seeps from the bleeders. I'm used to it spraying when doing this on a healthy brake system.
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My rear brakes developed a squeal when the brake pedal was released. My dealer replaced the rear brakes & disks at about 57000 miles. I had taken a salesman from the dealer to get an appraisal & he told me that it sounded like a simple adjustment would fix it. 2005 Elantra
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I have a 2008 elantra. It has 71600 miles on it. New brakes, & tires. 2 tires were changed year and 2 more the previous year. I have been hearing a constant sound and starting to feel a mild vibration on the pedal. First I went to a mechanic and he said I need to change the belts. Got that done, no respite. Next went to another, he said i probably need to get the wheel alignment done as the tires seem 'cupped' on the inside.
Went to the dealership, they looked at it said the same abt needing wheel alignment and asked me to change the timing belt!. Still same sound. Went to Sams club to look at the tires & they said check the brakes, tires are fine, it cannot wear out so soon and its not covered under warranty. Brakes got checked out as fine. Went back to Sams again and was told to check Suspension and Struts this time. Went to a mechanic and he gave me an all clear this morning! I am going on a road trip and don't want to be in an accident!
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On my daily commute in stop-and-go traffic, on a bridge, headed downhill, suddenly neither the accelerator nor the brake pedal would engage in my 2008 Elantra. Cars in front of me had sped up, then ground to a halt, and I was coasting downhill toward them, at a pace too fast for the handbrake to stop me. I couldn't downshift either (the car has automatic transmission, but shifting to low lets the engine slow you down). With nothing else to try, I shut off the ignition and then turned it on and, amazingly, all was back to normal. The dealer didn't find any trouble codes in the computer so they say the car must be OK to drive. But I don't feel safe driving the car. This might have happened and what I can do to fix it?
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My car is a 2003 Hyundai Elantra. When I turn on my air conditioner it does not turn on and the vents release a bad odor (not like the mildew smell that could come from there, I don't know how to describe it but it was making me sick). When I turn on my air conditioner I can hear a fan turn on but no air comes from the vents; but air does come out of the defrost vents only. The smell is not as strong as it was when this first started happening, but it is still there.
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New 2013 Elantra owner here.. When initially depressing the brake pedal lightly (before the brake pads engage, usually in stop-and-go traffic), I can feel a rubbing sensation coming from somewhere in the pedal assembly. If it's quiet, I can also hear a groaning sound. This definitely isn't a pad/rotor issue, rather something closer to the pedal itself and inside or near the cabin.
Took it to the dealership and after some coaxing and insistence that it wasn't "normal," they finally said it was the brake switch and replaced it. Seemed to alleviate the problem for a week or so, but now it's back!
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I'm getting a "thunk" or "clunk" noise when driving over bumps/patched/uneven roads in my Elantra GT.
It's a hollow noise, I don't hear it unless I hit a bump/patch in the road. Doesn't have to be a large bump.
25k miles, Automatic Transmission. it almost seems to be one side (right) more than the other.
Is this a common issue for this model/year? What was the cause?
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2013 Elantra GT prompted me to join. There is a creaking sound coming from the closed panoramic sunroof when I drive slowly over an uneven surface (e.g. driving over an uneven gravel driveway that has potholes). It is only an issue when the car is subject to a twisting action, and the roof is closed. For example, there is no creak when I drive 90 degrees over a speed bump; but, there is a creak if I drive over the speed bump at a diagonal. The creak disappears when the sunroof is open. I have taken the car back to the dealership several times and they don't know how to address the problem .
How this creak can be eliminated (without use of sledge hammer, which has crossed my mind at few times; also, driving with the sunroof open all the time is not an option for those of us living in the north).
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I have a 2016 Elantra that was bought brand new in October of last year. Since about January, the front end of the car bucks when taking your foot off the accelerator to slow down. The brakes do not need to be applied to cause this to happen. When I say it bucks, it happens repeatedly for 3-5 seconds and everyone in he car can feel it. This happens mainly when going at speeds of 20-30 mph and when going short distances such as stop sign to stop sign or in bumper to bumper traffic. If I put the car in neutral the bucking instantly stops. Unfortunately this doesn't happen every day so the dealer has not been able to replicate it as of yet.
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I just got a used low-milage 2013 LS460, and noticed that every time I tap the break pedal I hear a "clicking" sound coming from under the dash or hood. This seems to happen every time I touch or press on the brakes, at seemingly any speed. It sounds almost like an actuator of some kind... perhaps like the type which allows the transmission to shift out of park. Is this normal, or an indication of a an issue?
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I have just replaced the front pads and discs on my car. a 2000 115 tdi sport. Now I have a problem - the brake light is not always going out when you take your foot off the pedal. And it feels like the brakes are binding, but when you jack it up the wheels are all running freely ...
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I have a Ford Escape 2013. When accelerating to around 60 km/h (40 m/h), it bumps after pedal release (It accelerates right after pedal release, while normally it should decelerates and stays put). This problem only happens at around 60 km/h (40 m/h) and no happen at other speed. But at lower speed transmission is sometimes jerky when accelerating or decelerating. I took car to Ford dealer, and they reloaded (reset) the programming module. It worked better in 1st week, but got worse after that. I notice that transmission jerky problem is worse in hot weather (over 20 degree with sunshine), but is better in cool and cloudy weather and not sure in cold weather.
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So I know the 2013 GS (or many GS in general) have had complaints of squeaks and rattles. My GS has a couple but are very minor and only occasional.
I do have one noise that seems unusual though. When I am driving and drive over moderate bumps in the road, I hear a muffled clunk or thunk type of noise only from the rear passenger area and never anywhere else.
My car is a stock CPO 2013 F sport and not lowered or anything. Stock rims and tires. The shock does not seem to be leaking.
The noise happens regardless of if I am in regular or sport+ modes. Was going to mention it to the dealer at my next oil change and door trim replacement appointment I need to make Ina couple months.
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My friend has a prius and had her brake pedal sawed off modification. Funny cause she says that her foot is always slipping off the brakes now. It was always a bogus fix, to fix nothing caused by errant drivers.
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This morning I drove my car to see my dentist. When I parked I engaged the parking brake as I always do out of habit. However this time when I was done at the dentist and got in my car I tried to disengage the parking brake pedal and it wouldn't release. It kept going lower. Now I think its pretty much floored. I had to leave the car in the parking lot as it started to rain heavily. How to release the brake pedal. ? I think it must just be a stuck lever or gear thats preventing the release mechanism from working. Any pics or have dis-assembled a parking brake pedal on the phaeton before.
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