My rear brakes developed a squeal when the brake pedal was released. My dealer replaced the rear brakes & disks at about 57000 miles. I had taken a salesman from the dealer to get an appraisal & he told me that it sounded like a simple adjustment would fix it. 2005 Elantra
View 1 RepliesUsing mobile phone, Wife has an '06 Tucson. Noise like brakes squealing, but it occurs when you're NOT pressing the pedal.
The noise gets louder as the car goes faster, but the pitch of the squeal doesn't go up.
Working on a 2002 Hyundai Elantra GT. 4 disc, no ABS. Problem is the brake pedal goes to the floor without much force. I bled all 4 lines, but no improvement. Rigid lines from the brake master cylinder to the rear wheels were very corroded, so I ran new lines. The old ones pretty much fell apart when I took them off the car. I also replaced the brake master cylinder. I tried to bleed the brakes again, but couldn't get much (if any) fluid pressure at any of the wheels. Yes, I found a couple leaks at the junction points for the rigid lines, but I re-flanged those connections and got rid of all the leaks. Still no real pressure when trying to bleed.
So, I tried a second, then a third master cylinder with a new attached resevoir. No improvement. I bench bled the snot out of this third master cylinder because the symptoms clearly suggest air was likely trapped somewhere in the system. I used a wood dowel to fully actuate the cylinder many times after all the air had been released while I had short clear hoses running from the master cylinder outlets into a little plastic cup filled with clean brake fluid. I wanted to make sure there was no way air could be in the MC, and no air drawn back in when I released the wood dowel.
Next, I quickly capped off the MC outlets and connected a hose to each brake line individually where they normally screw into the MC. I then let clear fluid drain through each line until it was spilling out clear of each caliper bleeder with no air bubbles. So, no lines are kinked, clogged, or contain air.
I took every precaution to keep air out of the system, yet when I push the brake pedal, there is still virtually no real pressure generated by the MC. The power booster rod is shoving the master cylinder in as it should. I don't think there's any problem with the power booster.
I've used gravity bleeding, manual "push & hold the brake pedal" bleeding, vacuum bleeding, and I'm certain there is no air in the lines or calipers. Still no significant pressure coming from the MC when I push & hold the brake pedal to the floor. It takes maybe 20-25 pounds of foot pressure, but always goes completely to the floor with all the bleeders closed. If the pedal is held to the floor, fluid slowly seeps from the bleeders. I'm used to it spraying when doing this on a healthy brake system.
On my daily commute in stop-and-go traffic, on a bridge, headed downhill, suddenly neither the accelerator nor the brake pedal would engage in my 2008 Elantra. Cars in front of me had sped up, then ground to a halt, and I was coasting downhill toward them, at a pace too fast for the handbrake to stop me. I couldn't downshift either (the car has automatic transmission, but shifting to low lets the engine slow you down). With nothing else to try, I shut off the ignition and then turned it on and, amazingly, all was back to normal. The dealer didn't find any trouble codes in the computer so they say the car must be OK to drive. But I don't feel safe driving the car. This might have happened and what I can do to fix it?
View 16 RepliesAfter driving in the rain and starting the car again after a few hours (as in starting the car again after work, or starting it first thing in the morning) the following happens: As soon as I release my foot from the brake pedal to go into "drive," there is a "thunk" sound from the rear of the car as well as a lurch. A soft "thunk" may have a soft 'thunk" sound, but a louder thunk will have a pronounced lurch/jerkiness from the rear. The car drives OK and has no problem with braking when I apply the brakes.
It happens only after driving in the rain. The dealer says the sound and movement are the normal result with disc brakes wearing off the rust on the rotors. Other wet weather concern (happened once): while driving in a couple inches of snow, the brakes began to grind and eventually failed to bring the car to a stop. Dealer rotated the rear rotors (due to uneven wear, although I had the car only two weeks at the time) and installed new rear brake pads. He said grinding brakes on an Elantra are normal in rainy, snowy, and dusty conditions. Is my car really safe to drive? Is there a problem? I'm considering trading it it as I don't feel safe. It is an otherwise OK car.
In every other manual transmission vehicle I have ever driven, the clutch pedal engages/disengages within an inch of the floor. Is it normal that the clutch in my 2002 Hyundai Elantra engages when the pedal is so far away from the floor? When I say far away from the floor I mean within an inch of the pedal being fully released.
View 21 RepliesMy brake pedal squeaks when I release it, for the last two weeks. Does this mean I need maintenance, repair, or some oil?
View 6 RepliesI traded my 2007 Prius for the 2010 III Prius on 5/30. I had 5 wonderful days with it and on the 6th day, it started.
There is a loud creaking noise when the brake pedal is pushed and released.
The dealership contacted Toyota and did everything that was suggested to correct the problem and no luck.
My aunt recently purchased a new 2016 sonata trim is se, I believe its the base model version, I test drove her car after she bought it home from the dealer and noticed right away that when I release the brake pedal from a dead stop, foot off the brake but not on the gas pedal yet, the engine hesitates / shakes. This happens most of the time but not all of the time. I noticed this when the car had only 100 miles on it...is this a Hyundai feature?
View 49 RepliesA mechanic recently replaced the pads of the front brakes. After the service, the break makes squeaking noise when I release the break pedal. According to the mechanic, it is normal, and I better ignore the noise. Is it true?
View 1 RepliesWhen I release the brake pedal too fast, the brake pedal bounces back with sound which is a little bit loud to me. I feel the sound is from the spring if there's one. It's annoying so I have to remove my foot from the brake very slowly. Is it normal?
View 20 RepliesMy father purchased the 2015 GX460 this past January and the car currently has 4,500 miles. The first complementary oil change was completed in July. I feel that the brake of his GX460 is not sensitive enough, and I have to step on the brake very hard to feel the truck stopping. Does every GX460 owner feel the same way? I told my father about this, and he said I'm just not used to it. I'm thinking about taking his truck back to Lexus to check it out.
The dashboard so far doesn't indicate any ABS problem. By the way, I'm an owner of a 2014 IS350 F-Sports, and my 350's brakes are much better in my opinion. I'm not sure whether my experience of my 350, which has larger brake calipers for its size, has influenced me to draw such conclusion about the GX460 brakes.
Also, I notice that when I step on/release the GX460 pedals, I hear some noise that sounds like air. Did some research about this on the forum, and some of you have that too. I still don't understand this issue.
We have a new 2015 Prius with 6k on it and we are noticing one solid brief single click when the brake pedal is pressed and/or released. It doesn't happen every time (just some of the time) but it is only noticeable at slow speeds.
View 19 RepliesI have a 2005 Murano, 96K.
In Aug 2011, I had the rear disc brakes/rotors replaced. Front ones were replaced in Feb of this year.
For the past month, whenever I release the brake, I hear squealing (no sound when I press the brake to stop). Last about 5 secs, or until I hit about 15-20 MPH. Seems to happen only after the brakes heat up. I've tried to "Google" the answer, but the answers are mostly for drum brakes.
So I purchased my 2015 Lexus IS 350 AWD F-Sport back in October and experienced the following issues:
1. Brake squeal
- seems to occur when reversing out of a parking spot for example, so annoying and extremely loud, makes it sound like my brakes need changing
2. Bluetooth Radio
- there are times where my phone connects to the radio, plays music off my iPhone but then it sounds like the singer is slowly dying i.e.: the type of sound you used to hear when a walkman's batteries would be dying and needed changing. Happens sporadically
3. Gas tank lid on side of car won't close fully
- this happened just this week. I couldn't close my gas lid, no matter what I did. I managed to get it closed today after starting my car, wonder if its related at all to power/engine being on etc?
4. Buzzing in gas pedal resonates through foot
- this one is still driving me insane. Drive my car for 10-15 minutes on the highway and your foot feels like pins/needles from the buzzing sensation from the gas pedal.
I have a 2008 elantra. It has 71600 miles on it. New brakes, & tires. 2 tires were changed year and 2 more the previous year. I have been hearing a constant sound and starting to feel a mild vibration on the pedal. First I went to a mechanic and he said I need to change the belts. Got that done, no respite. Next went to another, he said i probably need to get the wheel alignment done as the tires seem 'cupped' on the inside.
Went to the dealership, they looked at it said the same abt needing wheel alignment and asked me to change the timing belt!. Still same sound. Went to Sams club to look at the tires & they said check the brakes, tires are fine, it cannot wear out so soon and its not covered under warranty. Brakes got checked out as fine. Went back to Sams again and was told to check Suspension and Struts this time. Went to a mechanic and he gave me an all clear this morning! I am going on a road trip and don't want to be in an accident!
I have a 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe with 152,000 miles on it. Last night, when I got in my car after work, I noticed that the brake pedal is now making an audible click when I press down on it. This has never occurred before (including on my way to work yesterday), but is still doing it today.
No lights are present on the dashboard, and I have not noticed any difference in the performance of my brakes. What could cause this, and should I be concerned?
I own a 2000 Hyundai Accent with 85,000 miles on it. I recently took my car into a local shop because the pressure on my brake pedal was extremely low. I was almost pushing it to the floor. On my first trip to the shop, they replaced the rear wheel cylinders because they were leaking. This replacement didn't fix my problem.
On the second trip to the shop, they replaced my master cylinder. I did call around to other shops to do a price comparison and the price was reasonable on both jobs. This work was done about two weeks ago.
At first, this seemed to fix my problem, the pressure was perfect. Since then I've been having an intermittent problem with the brake pedal pressure changing. It would get a little hard during driving, but would correct itself after a few moments. I don't drive that often or very far, so I was waiting to see if the problem would get worse.
Last night it did. I went out and when I tried to drive my car home my pedal was extremely hard. I could barely push it. While I was driving my car home (I was close to home), it felt like I was driving with my brakes on. My car would stop as soon as I took my foot off the gas pedal, I could not coast. When I got out, I could feel heat coming from the front tires, which I didn't even have work done on. There was also a smell that I've never smelled before. It almost smelled like something burning.
I was told I should have my car towed back to the shop on a lifted bed and not rolled there and that they should fix my car at no charge because they did something wrong.
My ultimate question is did the shop do something wrong and should I take it back to them if they did? Should they be responsible for this new repair? I don't want to go demanding anything if it's possible this is a whole new problem and not their fault. Even though it does seem like an awfully big coincidence. My next question is: what could be possibly wrong with my car? I would like to know what I'm getting myself into.
The car is a 2005 Hyundai Elantra with a 5-speed manual transmission. My father and I were replacing a worn out clutch disk on my sisters car. We replaced the clutch disk, pressure plate, and throw out bearing with no problems; however, when we put the transaxles back into the transmission we noticed that they could spin freely despite the transmission being in first gear. The clutch is not engaged even when the clutch pedal isnt being pushed in. We stopped putting the car back together until we could figure out what was wrong with it.
View 12 RepliesAbout two months ago I bought a used 2005 Elantra from a reputable dealership. I had my mechanic friend check it out before I bought it and everything seemed fine. This week the check engine light came on. I took it to a shop, they diagnosed the issue and said I needed a new catalytic converter .....
View 9 RepliesMy 2005 Hyundai Elantra has 85,000 miles and we are having trouble with the gear shift. It will not shift into 1st from neutral but will shift into 1st from 2nd. We recently replaced the clutch (about 3 months ago). We are about to go on a road trip and are wondering whether we should get it checked out before hand.
View 9 Replies