IS F (2008-2014) :: Brake Pedal Requires A Lot Of Force To Start The Car
Oct 2, 2014
I went to start my car this morning after not driving it for about three days and nothing happened when I pushed the start button. So I double checked to make sure it was in park, had my foot on the brake and again the car wouldn't start. The only thing that would happen is it would engage the accessories same as if I pushed the start button without having my foot on the brake pedal. I did notice that the brake pedal felt unusually hard as in, it would not depress more than a few millimeters. I decided to push on the brake pedal with considerable amount of force which resulted in it depressing maybe a few millimeters more. Then when I pushed the start button the car started up and the braked pedal sank a few inches like normal when the car first starts up. Everything was normal after this. Made a few pit stops on the way to work and the brakes felt fine and the car started perfectly normally.
I have had the car for only a week and a half. It's a 2012 isf.
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Working on a 2002 Hyundai Elantra GT. 4 disc, no ABS. Problem is the brake pedal goes to the floor without much force. I bled all 4 lines, but no improvement. Rigid lines from the brake master cylinder to the rear wheels were very corroded, so I ran new lines. The old ones pretty much fell apart when I took them off the car. I also replaced the brake master cylinder. I tried to bleed the brakes again, but couldn't get much (if any) fluid pressure at any of the wheels. Yes, I found a couple leaks at the junction points for the rigid lines, but I re-flanged those connections and got rid of all the leaks. Still no real pressure when trying to bleed.
So, I tried a second, then a third master cylinder with a new attached resevoir. No improvement. I bench bled the snot out of this third master cylinder because the symptoms clearly suggest air was likely trapped somewhere in the system. I used a wood dowel to fully actuate the cylinder many times after all the air had been released while I had short clear hoses running from the master cylinder outlets into a little plastic cup filled with clean brake fluid. I wanted to make sure there was no way air could be in the MC, and no air drawn back in when I released the wood dowel.
Next, I quickly capped off the MC outlets and connected a hose to each brake line individually where they normally screw into the MC. I then let clear fluid drain through each line until it was spilling out clear of each caliper bleeder with no air bubbles. So, no lines are kinked, clogged, or contain air.
I took every precaution to keep air out of the system, yet when I push the brake pedal, there is still virtually no real pressure generated by the MC. The power booster rod is shoving the master cylinder in as it should. I don't think there's any problem with the power booster.
I've used gravity bleeding, manual "push & hold the brake pedal" bleeding, vacuum bleeding, and I'm certain there is no air in the lines or calipers. Still no significant pressure coming from the MC when I push & hold the brake pedal to the floor. It takes maybe 20-25 pounds of foot pressure, but always goes completely to the floor with all the bleeders closed. If the pedal is held to the floor, fluid slowly seeps from the bleeders. I'm used to it spraying when doing this on a healthy brake system.
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What updates were done to the 3.6 engine for 2008? So far in 100 or so miles I've noticed that the 2008 3.6 is:
Much easier to start. (06/07 requires cranking much longer to start)
idles smoother (06/07 shook a little when sitting at idle)
accelerates smoother
then the 2007.5 3.6 I had, and the 2006 3.6 in my friends Passat.
Both of those did have the OJ update done. The only visual difference is the plastic engine cover. On the 06 and 07 it has a silver colored cover. the 08 has a black cover that is different in shape.
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just recently installed the new X force exhaust system on my 2008 ISF with 72,000 miles on it. I've had the exhaust on the car for about 300 miles it when I was driving home from work today the vsc and check engine light pops up. I turn the car off when I got home and then turned it back on the check engine light was off but the stored Code was still there when I read it with the scanner P0420. I'm thinking maybe there's an exhaust leak even though it sounds fine.
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Upon start up my car totally shutdown and reset itself. While the car was shut down the brake pedal locked up and the car would not start it was completely dead.
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When coming to a hard stop and downshifting using engine braking, is it normal to have the brake pedal feel like it loses pressure to where the brake pedal pushes down further towards the floor for a split second? What causes that to occur?
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I went driving today and for a moment I could engage/disengage the clutch pedal with little to no effort. It goes back to the normal force after 3-4 shifts.
It's the exact opposite of what's happening in this thread. [URL] ....
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Getting a clunk feel and sound while pressing the brake pedal? If I press harder, another clunk or two occurs. Felt and hear especially at low speed or stopped. No issues braking, but the clunk has slowly gotten worse since I dropped the car on RSR Downs which could be a coincidence.
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I just purchased a 2011 F-150 XTR and i noticed the pedals very close to me and i know it does not have electric positioning and it appears that looking at it, it can be adjusted manually..
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I tried to get emission test on a 2006 f150 5.4 and they cant do the test as " OBD monitor not ready, how to do a force test or what to do.
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I have a 2014 RX350 and the brake pedal rattles when I use it. It seems to be loose at the pivot point way up under that dash but I can't get to it. It seems to have excessive movement side to side otherwise it works as it should.
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I have a 2015 IS250 F Sport with brakes that squeak. First time dealer said can't replicate and suggested hard braking to burn off any residue on rotors. Second time, dealer replace rear brake calipers which resulted in mix match colors of the brake caliper and bracket. Not happy.
Well it's starting to squeak again. Not sure if moisture and or cold has anything to do with it. Washed the car yesterday and as I was moving it down the driveway (small incline) the brakes squeaked as soon as I released the brake pedal. I was able to replicate this several times yesterday.
This morning brakes squeaked as soon as I released the brake pedal. Not on an incline driveway today.
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So I purchased my 2015 Lexus IS 350 AWD F-Sport back in October and experienced the following issues:
1. Brake squeal
- seems to occur when reversing out of a parking spot for example, so annoying and extremely loud, makes it sound like my brakes need changing
2. Bluetooth Radio
- there are times where my phone connects to the radio, plays music off my iPhone but then it sounds like the singer is slowly dying i.e.: the type of sound you used to hear when a walkman's batteries would be dying and needed changing. Happens sporadically
3. Gas tank lid on side of car won't close fully
- this happened just this week. I couldn't close my gas lid, no matter what I did. I managed to get it closed today after starting my car, wonder if its related at all to power/engine being on etc?
4. Buzzing in gas pedal resonates through foot
- this one is still driving me insane. Drive my car for 10-15 minutes on the highway and your foot feels like pins/needles from the buzzing sensation from the gas pedal.
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Had a lift done (Rough Country, after reading through these forums) on my 04 F150 Newer Body Style 4x4. Now, sometimes the pedal gets harder to push on until it won't go down at all and the brakes (only the front) start dragging. It goes away after awhile (my rotors are shot and I'm going to have to replace them after I figure out what is going on) but always comes back. The brake lines have been bled and I'm having a shop bleed them again tomorrow (that's what they said the issue was) just in case.
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I have a 2009 F-150 Supercrew. I have noticed that when I am going down a hill and hit a bump with my foot on the brake pedal it depresses and I get a springing sensation from the pedal. It almost feels like I am depressing a spring with my foot and then it comes back to normal ???? Just yesterday I was on an off-ramp of the interstate in a sharp curve and it did it without hitting a bump ???? What is causing this or how to fix it ??
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2008 Hyundai Azera 3.8L V6 .... Purchased in 2009 with 11,000 miles.
In early November 2012, I experienced occasional episodes of a low brake pedal, which did not affect the stopping power of the vehicle. Most of the time, the car stops and behaves normally. However, once in a while, the brake pedal drops/travels farther than usual. (This is accompanied by a heart pumping, "I'm about to blow through this stop sign", moment.) I had a full brake inspection performed at my usual automotive repair shop. Nothing was found to be wrong with the system. Linings were 30% front, 90% rear (rears were done at one year prior, at 48,000 miles). Odometer at the time was 64,850.
I returned to the shop one week later with the same symptoms. Again the system was inspected, and nothing was found to be wrong. Decided to replace the master cylinder as the most logical explanation of the symptoms. Drove car successfully, without symptoms, for approximately 1,600 miles.
Recently, at 66,600 miles, the same problem has returned. Returned to the shop for additional brake inspection. No faults were found in the entire braking system. No stored ABS codes. No visible fluid leaks. Fluid is clean and full. Shop contacted local Hyundai service representative, who claims that this behavior is normal for this particular vehicle. Claims that as the ABS hydraulic pump cycles, the vehicle will feel like is has no brakes (but will stop properly.)
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My 2004 F 150 the rubber piece that goes on my brake pedal keeps on falling off after I put it back on looked it over today and did notice it does have a good size tear in one of the corners....Can I get a replacement one of these? all I need is the rubber that goes on the pedal....Would I have to go to the dealer for it?
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What would cause the brakes on my wife's truck to be stiff and not hold?
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I have two Hyundais - 2011 Sonata SE and a 2008 Santa Fe Limited. here is my problem with the Santa Fe.
Brakes: Changed front rotors and pads - rear had the rotors resurfaced and installed new pads. Still get a lot of pulsation when stepping on brake pedal. Is there anything else I should be checking?
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I have replaced the front rotors, calibers, pads and brake lines. I went through the process of bleeding the brakes by using the following sequence: right rear, left rear, right front and left front.
I did this about 4 times - process was to pump the break until the pedal was hard then my son kept his foot on the pedal while I release the bleeder value. During this process I kept the master cylinder full.
Took the car out and the pedal went right to the floor when applying the brakes. The car did stop but not as I had expected. So what have I done incorrectly here? Is there something else to check?
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I have a 2008 Ranger Sport 4x4. I noticed yesterday that when I stepped on the brake pedal it felt like nothing was there until I step a little harder then it was like full brake application. The truck only has 63000 on it. Then every once in awhile it would be normal ie very light brake application and slows like it should. Then back to same issue... Any thoughts about this??
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