IS F (2008-2014) :: RPM Meter Moving Up And Back Down Without Firing Or Even Crank
Oct 6, 2014
I lend my car to my sister after doing the 60 k service a week after she couldn't start the car . She recorded the problem and later showed it to me , I Only see the rpm meter moving up and back down without firing or even crank. I asked her how did she get it to star?t she reply " I kept trying until it start it took about 10 minutes ". I had it drop off at the dealer and they couldn't find anything, but assume that it's the starter , which I doubt it , if its the starter then it would have been clicking . All terminal are tighten nothing is lose.
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Been battling this for several months. Sometimes, the truck will crank but not fire. Several attempts, then apply gas pedal, eventually will start. I have read through and searched much of this forum. Let me start with this, every part I have replaced has been with Motorcraft parts. I have done the following:
1. Replaced IAC. Ports are very clean.
2. Replaced fuel pump & filter.
2. 5 Voltage at pump connector is good AND it lights a heavy bulb. Not losing voltage to pump.
3. Replaced MAF sensor. This changed it. Stopped doing the no start for about one month. Then began doing it again.
4. Replaced MAF connector, soldered in a motorcraft connector. Good for 3 days.
5. Have checked connector pin tension and condition at crank sense. Good.
6. No codes.
7. Always shows RPM on scan tool while condition is present.
8. Once it starts, it never dies, not rich, not lean. Fuel trims are great and runs mint.
9. Technician is now in loony bin.
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Had extreme cold weather here and I left my truck unplugged for a couple of weeks. Started fine but stalled once the fuel was used up in the lines. Replaced fuel filer and filled with that anti gel stuff. Truck sounds like it is almost firing up but still cannot get it to run. When I turn the key on it sound like the fuel pump is working for about one minute and then turns off. Made sure the fuel filter was overfilled with deiseal. Turned it over so many times the lines should be full by now. I used that quick start stuff and it almost starts every time.
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My wife has been telling me our '01 E-350 (Econoline) with 7.3 is taking several attempts to start in the mornings, like it's not even trying to fire. It will crank like wild but no fire and then it will fire usually and sometimes run a little rough but no always.
Tonight she called me from across town and it won't start at all, cranks like wild but won't start, chug or anything.
The WTS light is working fine, the truck runs great and idles smooth all other times, just been giving grief when starting in the mornings (warm outside 70 degree plus ambient temp). I haven't had the truck do it to me but she has explained it well enough.
I do get a SES light for overboost when I run it hard (PHP tuned) but it always goes away and hasn't caused any issues. Could this be the ICP acting like this? If so, is it true that I can just unplug it and the truck will start by using default pressure?
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1995 aero, 4.0 auto AWD. wouldn't start about a month ago and got parked. got around to working on it and it would start and run a couple seconds then just crank and crank, I tossed another edis module on it that i had with no change, tried it without the MAF plugged in, had consistent spark while cranking. fuel pump would prime just fine. after a while I was experimenting around and held the throttle WOT and got a couple coughs.
after a while of cranking and trying different stuff I had began to get a few backfires (and by this time i had the spout and the octane plug out) and I was actually trying to see if i could see backfires out the tail pipe cause i couldn't determine if they were intake or exhaust side, it finally started. it ran really rough and coughed and sputtered and backfired a few times, then after about 30 seconds it smoothed out and started idling like normal.
I took it for a drive and it ran normal, so i shut it off and reinstalled the spout and octane plug and took it for another drive and it ran better (assuming the ign advance is working, so it must not be in limp home mode)
When I first started I pulled codes 114 and 118, ACT sensor out of range and ECT voltage high (Note: when I got it started the gauge didn't show it as being very "warmed up" even though it idled about 30 minutes before I drove it about 10 miles). I am gonna let it cool for the night and see how it starts in the morning, then try pulling codes again...
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Background - I just got done changing a few things... Exhaust Manifold/gasket, battery cables, valve cover gasket, oil cooler gasket and hoses, power steering pump and hoses, and ball joints. Most of this has nothing to do with the issue that came up as I am driving it back to return it to her.
While out on the freeway, I initially notice subtle power losses and surges. These quickly escalate into almost total power loss with back firing, sputtering and much more noticeable surges in power. The check engine light was turning off then on a few times before pretty much deciding to stay on.
So I nurse it back home on back roads due to its inability to maintain freeway speeds. I proceed to check everything I touched paying special attention to the exhaust manifold and surrounding area. The new manifold came from the j/y and was barely used so I had initially just stuck with the O2 sensor that came with it; I changed this to the one the vehicle had previously been employing as it was not exhibiting these symptoms until after the job was done. I also double checked all the hoses, intake tube, wires and connectors; everything is connected.
From here, I research the method of pulling codes on OBD-1 vehicles by making the check engine light flash. It flashed a 111 and a 172 at the same time; the information I could find said the 111 means everything is normal, and the 172 suggested O2 or MAF. I am reasonably sure the O2 is not the problem so I focused on the MAF. Disconnecting it while running seemed to improve the way it idled so via the process of deduction, which also included the consideration of typical symptoms of MAF sensor failure, I proceeded to replacing the MAF sensor which amounted to little improvement.
At this moment in time the check engine light has not returned but it is clearly not in a drive-able state of being. It actually seems to have ever so slightly improved though.
Additionally, the symptoms only exist when the engine is hot and has been driven; it drives normally for 5-10 minutes until it gets to operating temperature then it starts to crap out. After changing the MAF sensor, I let it idle for 20 minutes and it was fine until about 2 minutes into the test drive.
Speculation - I am thinking spark plugs could also be a culprit as its has been forever since a tune-up but the sudden onset of this condition make me doubt this a little; it also has 8 plugs so even if one or two crapped out it should still run better than this I would think.
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I did my 20k service at an independent shop. However, the shop forgot to reset my maintenance meter. What is the procedure?
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Last night when I started my car before heading home from work I noticed that the engine clunked a couple of times, as if it were slowly combustion or back firing in two cylinders. The car started up fine; however, I've never heard the engine do that before. I don't know if it is because it has been cold up here the last few days (-12C (10F) day time highs) or if there's something else wrong. My EGT has just under 60,000km (37,200mi).
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I Have a 93 bronco with a5.8 the truck will start up and run fine for a while and then the engine gets really ruff starts back firing and shuts off it only starts with starting fluid or after it sits for about 30 mins.
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The truck starts up fine. then after a minute or so it starts to spit and sputter and back fire through the intake then dies.
What could cause this? Intake manifold gasket leak?
Will a clogged fuel filter cause this?
5.4 ....
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So when I got my car a couple months ago there was this problem where the backup camera wouldn't come on every now and then when I shifted into reverse so I decided to get it fixed under warranty. the dealership said the problem had to do with the whole infotainment system or something so they gave me a whole new center console and navigation screen for some reason but after I got my car back a couple days ago it was working fine up until today where the back up camera won't even come on at all anymore. I've driven the car about 5 different times today and the backup camera never came on once.
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My 2008 has about 49k miles on her and my Moonroof started acting up the other day. The tilt function works perfectly. It even slides out to max open, however when I attempt to close it, it closes about 2/3 of the way then it acts as if it senses something in the way and opens all the way back up. I didn't take anything apart, but didn't notice anything in the rails. I also didn't hear any sort of grinding or stalling on the motor. If the motor is going bad?
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I have a customer that has the 5.4 litre engine. The right bank is not firing at all. I have heard that they have a spark issue.
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2008 GS460. 100K miles
I have noticed when I accelerate on a entrance ramp to the highway I notice the RPM meter jerks a little like it's trying to suck for gas or something else. I can feel it in the car too. This is the only time I have noticed this. I have replaced the spark plugs about 5K miles ago.
I did bring it into the dealership a few months ago to get the fuel pump replaced as I noticed a hissing noise under the drivers side read door. They said fuel pumps rarely go bad on the Lexus. The mechanic did some fuel pressure tests and said everything looks good. He also said noise is the return line back to the pump.
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I have recently noticed that the ODO meter of the car does not work i.e. it is stuck at the reading (57735 km) it was on when I got the car and does not record/show the increase in mileage. the trip A and B are working perfectly fine. I took the car to the local Toyota dealer but he has no clue what is wrong with it, the guy there suggested that ECU is working fine but the ODO meter is damaged and needs replacement.
I am not sure what the guy at the dealership suggested is correct because what i think is that if ODO gets damaged then the whole speedo meter should mal function.
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Recently my F150 has had issues starting in the mornings. It is in an insulated garage. It takes about 10 cranks before it fires. Then it struggles to run like its not getting fuel for a second or two, then rpm's jump to 1200 and has a slight miss for another second or two, then it smooths out and is fine. Leaving my driveway it will have a miss around 2000rpm for about two seconds then the truck will run perfect the rest of the day. It can sit outside in the cold for 10 hours while i am at work and will fire right up and run great. The issues only happens in the morning.
All the plugs were changed about 6 months ago. Fuel pump and fuel pump drive module were changed about 3 weeks ago. The check engine light has come on twice. The first time I didn't have access to a code reader and since the truck started right away and then died instantly i figured that was why the light came on, so i disconnected the battery and re-connected it. Light didn't come back on for a week. Second time code was for misfire on cylinder 5. I am changing the fuel filter this week. If that doesn't work i was gonna change the #5 coil.
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Just went out to start the truck (2006 4.2L) and no start...turns over but isn't firing.
I checked codes and got a P1299. She was stone cold and ran perfectly last night - never overheated.
I suspect ground or other wiring...where should I start?
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I have a '93 Suburban, Its actually in great shape, except that the fan made some loud whining noises for about 45 minutes and doesnt work at all now. I have heat, but only when Im driving on the highway and only when the heat is actually turned to the "off" postion on the switch and I dont even have heat when slowly driving around town. The rear fan works, but blows cold too. Im not sure that even gets hot when Im moving, as I feel a cold breeze on my neck when I turn on the fan when Im driving. I dont think the ac works at all...just bought this truck, so havent tried it, and its cold out anyway, so I'll have to wait I suppose.
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I am tall 6'5" and was curious if is possible to move the seat rails back to create a bit more leg room.
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Just when I thought I understood how to use all the controls on the 2006 V8 Phaeton I got two weeks ago, the steering wheel has thrown me a curve.
I have pressed the button on the column that makes the wheel move back when I turn off the car so its easier to get out, then it moves back to the set position when I start the car again. But for some reason, it moves back, but no longer moves forward to the set position when I start the car again. Have I done something by accident to change this function?
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The needle is moving up and then back down. This mostly happens while at a stop and simultaneously the ac compressor kicks off.
Recently new radiator and temp gauge, plus coolant flush.
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