IS F (2008-2014) :: Steering Linkage Rubbing / Binding On Right Hand Turns
Jan 23, 2015
I just put on headers and after running into the infamous rattle sound I found an additional issue. The steering linkage seems to be rubbing or binding on right hand turns. Any normal 90 degree right hand turn will prevent me from taking the wheel beyond a certain point. I have had to make wide swooping turns. I feel the steering wheel stop further progress turning to the right and it gets a heavy rattle feel in the steering wheel.
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I have noticed on our 2009 F-150 there is an audible "click" (and you can feel it in the steering wheel) in left hand turns at about 1/4 revolution. You can also hear/feel the same thing coming out of right hand turns. It doesn't happen EVERY time, but pretty often. My wife had the service guy drive it when it was in for an oil change, and of course he didn't experience the same thing. What it might be or where to start?
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2011 ISF with clunking and rubbing noises coming from the passenger front side, especially when making right turns or hitting a pot hole. It really does sound like something is loose and bouncing around when hitting a pot hole, and its the same noise when taking a right turn at any speed. It doesn't make any sense!!! Could be engine bay or could be in the tire well, unsure. We took the tire off today and found nothing wrong and no rubbing points around. We checked the control arm, strut, sway bar, backing plate, wheel bearing for looseness. Cant find anything wrong at all...
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I had my local race shop install my new PPE headers and how I have a rubbing and grinding sound while taking right turns. They have had the car for a few extra days and they say they cant seem to find the cause of the problem. It rattles on a pot hole, it grinds on right turns and sometimes vibrates on highway cruise control driving.
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My truck has developed a bad habit when it is cold (as in outside air below freezing and engine cold): The accelerator pump arm rubs against the throttle arm hard enough to bind the throttle partially open (NEVER a good situation!). I've removed the carb and verified that everything "looks" right:
1) The throttle shaft is in the right location and doesn't have any side to side movement.
2) The accelerator pump arm pivot is straight
3) The accelerator pump arm is straight (It's design makes it a bit difficult to just "bend" the arm side to side and I shouldn't have to do that anyway...)
4) The throttle arm is straight
After taking the arm off and straightening it out (repairing my attempts at a "field" repair...), verifying the linkage and then reinstalling and adjusting the AP, everything was working perfectly on the bench (kitchen table...), so I went ahead and reinstalled the carb (always fun at 10:30pm when it is 7F outside and the freaking wind is blowing at 30mph!).
By the time I got everything bolted down and hooked back up, the carb had cooled off a LOT, and the linkage was once more binding. I have no doubt that if I bring it in and let it warm back up, it will work perfectly.
So, what could be the problem? Do I just need to say the heck with it and hit the side of that lever with a file to get the cold clearance it just doesn't have? I can't imagine that this is a common problem with Holley 4160 carbs...
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Just replaced a badly worn Hub on my 98 AWD Explorer. The grinding noise is gone but now the steering is binding/shaking during stopped or low speed turns. What is going on or what I might have done wrong?
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While looking in the engine compartment, I noticed that the steering linkage behind the engine where it comes out of the firewall and connects to the steering box is rusting... Bad. The car is only a year old, but the linkage looks like it's 10 years old. Should I be concerned?
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Ok. I wanted to pick the minds to make it easier. In the photos the lower steering linkage is loose (bottom bar with ring on the end connected to knuckle) and needs replacement. To fix this is it just a bushing inside? Is it unscrewing the end like replacing a tie rod?
2008 F350 CC DRW
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I have a 2008 Elantra with 59,000 miles. When it is warm out (70 F+), the sterering wheel makes a binding noise (squeeking noise - it is hard to describe) when turning. It doesn't do this all the time and it is much more noticeable when it is warm out. The temps are usually mild. This is a recent problem as I haven't noticed it before.
Should I be concerned about this? I want to get it checked before the 60,000 mile mark in case this is a serious issue such as rack and pinion steering problems.
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I have a noise coming from the right hand side of my truck. It sounds like something is rubbing against something. Its not a squeak, but its close to it and only happens when i am coasting. It seems to slow down a bit when I apply the brakes and when I accelerate it does not make that sound.
I checked under the car and in the wheel hole; its nothing visible i don't think. I also know that its not the dashboard and not the AC. It just happened all of a sudden, I'm at about 11,000 miles.
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I recently purchased a 2003 Eddie with V8 and AWD. On turns everything was binding making the turn almost impossible to take. The front hubs have been replaced and it now has four new tires. This is a great deal as the Anti-lock sensors in the hubs were throwing a code and the bearings were shot. This made a difference but there is still some binding taking place. This truck is a daily driver so need to know where to go from here. I pulled two fuses that were listed as "4wd v-batt" but this made no difference so I put the fuses back. My mechanics Snap-on modis computer doesn't find any codes at present, so we are confused. Nice vehicle, but this is driving me crazy.
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I'm lowered on coils with 20mm spacers in the front and I'm rubbing my liners not a whole lot but still bothers me. There's a lot of people here with dropped and flush "F's" so what have yall done? Or do yall just let it rub away
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Im working on my buddies 2005 F150 FX4. In the midst of buttoning everything up and calling it a day I happen to see fluid dripping. The OEM steel brake line had been rubbing on the steering shaft and while doing the brakes, must of busted through all of the way.
I have been to Advance and Napa at least 4 times trying to match stuff up. Nothing works from either of them.
Called Ford and talked to a parts guy who lacked general automotive knowledge and finally had to pull up there diagram to show him the correct part. He told me that part is discontinued and cannot be ordered.
It is #2264 in this diagram.
2005 Ford F-150 Front Brake Hydraulic Hose | FordParts.com
I have the factory fittings and everything to make a new line. I cannot find tube that is 5.20mm or .20". Everything I find in a roll is either 3/16 or 6mm.
The fitting is a 12mmx1.00 on the ABS brain. The caliper hose appears to be a 3/8x24. A 10mmx1.00 which is standard metric 3/16 tube nut is to big for the OEM caliper hose. A standard 3/16 flare wont seat on the caliper hose.
So it seems like what Ford did here was.... a 12mmx1.00 on a 5.20mm tube to a 3/8x24 to a caliper hose that wont seat with out 5.20mm tube.
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06 sonata v6 standard 16in tires. I do all my maintenance, but i am stumped. A sound that is best described as a rattle crossed with a metal object (bolt/nut) rolling down a rail. Strange i know. Checked for rubbing, nothing. Made sure all bolts and nuts were correctly tight. Does it whether braking or not during any speed. May be dropped object, but neither I or a mechanic could repeat during Right hand turn. I have changed my front pads and dbl checked that is not the cause ( was doing it before change anyway) my fear is I'm missing something and am fearful of a mechanical failure.
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I have a 2005 Saturn Ion stalls when I make left hand turns! The engine light comes on and the car goes into limp mode! I stop the car and wait a minute or two and it starts right back up and after driving it for a while the engine light goes out! I took it to a shop and they replaced the throttle body and ignition coil on two different occasions and my car still does the same thing!
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This is the first winter I'm driving my truck. I put it in in 4x4 HIGH the other night due to the snow (and I wanted to check out everything).
Seemed to work fine until I was backing into a parking spot doing a full lock turn. It didn't seem to move. I gave it a little more throttle and it "released" like it was stuck or going over an obstacle. Happened again when I did a full turn backing into my driveway (this time turning the opposite way).
It seems to work fine going forward with tight turns. Also and it doesn't "bind" in 4x2 mode. I haven't tried 4x4 LOW yet ... I guess I don't want to wreck anything if it's not operating properly. Is this normal?
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I have been getting this weird bumpy feeling when making left hand turns and even sometimes when going strait on the road. It does not seem to effect the breaking for acceleration of the car. This does not happen all the time and will start and stop without any change in driving.
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The car is a 2.8L w/ a manual tranny. The car was making a rhythmic clunking and clicking noise around right hand turns on the left wheel. So when the weight of the vehicle is applied to the left, that's when the noise occurs. The car has been in the shop for 6 days and the technicians have replaced both axle shafts (it was time to do so anyway) but the noise is still there!!! What could possibly be making that noise other than bad CV's? The rhythm of the noise coincides with the rotation of the wheel/shaft which is where they have focused. Could it possibly be bad strut mounts? This is driving me crazy!!! They tell me its perfectly safe to drive (how do they know this when thy don't know whats wrong?) but I can't imagine this can carry on much longer without something breaking.
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My passenger side has been making thud noises on a number of occasions on my 01 Jetta 1.8t:
1. When I go over bumps, the front passenger side will make a loud thud noise.
2. When I take my foot off the brake, there will be a loud thud from the front passenger side as well.
3. When making left hand turns and I begin to turn the wheel back to return it to its original position, there is a thud coming from the front passenger side as well.
It does not continuously click like a bad CV joint would. All these symptoms came at the same time period.
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I have a 2008 Gen II with an increasingly noisy front wiper linkage. It squeaks rather loudly. I know the noise is not the wiper blades on the glass because I've lifted the wiper blades, turned on the wipers, and get exactly the same noise. Any way to lubricate the linkage?
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So I got my 2010 ISF last year around this time.... I never noticed anything a possible heat problem... So basically I've noticed that when ever I stop at red lights or at idle, my heat turns cold?
Temp is at high and the AC light is off too... When ever I drive it warms up again and works like a champ... But at idle or stopped it's completely cold....
It's scaring me.... My car is certified still I believe, this problem should be covered since it's internal?
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