Intrigue :: 2002 Car Refused To Crank / No Starter Function
Jan 21, 2014
2002 Oldsmobile Intrigue 3.5L 224,XXX Miles. About a month ago, the car refused to crank, while out but was able to be jumped and started twice. After it was jumped, the analog gauges refused to work and the transmission shifted hard for about 5mins, then returned to normal. Once it was back in the driveway, it hasn't cranked since, no starter function.
The very first thing I replaced was the Ignition Switch, after replacing, nothing changed, no crank. I then had the battery replaced and the starter bench tested, it tested good. I then tore into the engine bay and cleaned every ground. I found that grounds G113 had the insulation rubbed away but the wire was still connected. I then removed the tape, inspected the harness as far as I could aether way and only found that. The wire and ring terminals where replaced about 6inches into the harness. (NOTE: when I had the pcm disconnected, G113, G117, G119 the key functions function normally, ((I'll explain later)). I then reinstalled everything, reinstalled all grounds after cleaning them and using dielectric grease. No change.
Things I've observed wrong: when the key is in "ACC" the cluster blinks and relays click at a high speed. The fuel pump also works the same way. You can make it stop by using the left or right blinker, then the "PRND123" indicator will light. With key "on" the ipc functions normally but there is no "PRND123" indicators, no fuel gauge reading. With key on "CRANK" the relays behind the radio area click once, the dash goes dark, but the radio and climate controls stay on.
I've DVOM'd a lot of fuses and most check out except: dashboard fuse labeled "crank" has ~3V when the key is on acc/on but 12V when on Crank. Under hood fuse box checks out except the IGN MAIN relay and its fuses "ABS/FIJN/OXN.." they only read 7-8V, with the relay removed, the relay reads same voltage too. No other fuses affected. I checked the "Crank voltage C2, pin 23" at the PCM and only got ~3V with key on crank, but 9V with key "on". I CANNOT jump the "crank" relay, it does nothing.
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I have an 02 f150 5.4 4x4, drowned it a while back, thought i had hydro lock, crank can be turned by hand though as far as i can with a wrench, so internals seem to be fine, no bent or broken rods that i could tell, ripped everything apart cleaned it up put it back together, new fuses, new ignition relay, new starter, alternator and battery as well, turned the key to on and got all my electronic stuff back up, turned to start and it all goes dark, which i assume is because at that point its sending power to the starter, but the starter didn't turn or crank the engine...
So question being when i put my new starter on is it possible that i might have crossed a wire or something that would cause it to not crank? and due to the fact that I had water in it, and had hydro locked it, all my plugs are out, now I know that spark is needed for the engine to run, but shouldn't be needed just for the crank to turn right? question being is that once i fix the wires on my starter, I am looking for initial crank before start up, so do i need to put a plug or two back in and hook them up to make it crank? or will it crank without them? and yes I did replace all my fluids as well.
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Camry 2002 LE (4 cyl Auto), 140K mi
This morning, for the first time I can recall, the car would not start right away. Had been sitting in the garage for 2+ days. Starter would crank just fine, but engine would not fire. No lites were left on overnite. Finally (after about 6+ attempts), engine started -- runs fine now.
Took it to TOY dealer. Their diagnosis: weak battery, alternator low output.Happy, had recently (6 mos) replaced battery after 4 years of use, so got a new battery N/C.TOY ran a charging system check and it shows "Alternator Condition: OK" (midway between shitty and great I recall).
Funny, but my first thought when it would not start was the fuel system (fuel pump) or dirty ignitors. I did ask my regular mechanic for an opinion, and he thinks it might indeed be the fuel pump -- perhaps a clogged filter.
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2002 F450 7.3 Turbo
Ok first problem : Starter Motor fuse kept blowing and I spent weeks trying to figure it out. No luck. so wired up a push button just to get the truck started, its a work truck so it was needed asap.
2nd problem : he truck stopped starting completely. Wont start in Park or neutral and after a NEW STARTER (because I thought the solenoid on the starter was bad I replaced it) Everything work correctly for one start with the key. After the second time trying to start it blew the starter fuse again. So I tried the straight wiring to starter. still nothing. I was wondering if there are any shims or anything at the transmission housing to correctly position the starter. I am thinking that maybe the gear is stuck or gets stuck sometimes. when I straight wire the starter it does nothing but the wire gets hot so I know its pulling.
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I have an 2002 Oldsmobile Intrigue. I started having a problem about a year back where when I first start the engine, if there is 1/4 tank or less left in the gas tank, the gauge will at first show the proper level. However, after driving for a few minutes the gauge will creep up to anywhere from 1/2 to 3/4 fill. I know that the original reading of 1/4 or less is the correct one because of the amount of gas needed to fill the tank. This problem is especially problematic when the tank is almost empty.
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So months ago, my wife reported the starter wouldn't crank, but after a few tries it did and the car started right up, no issues since then. I figured she didn't push the clutch in far enough.
Two weeks ago, the car threw a code for the Cam position sensor and was making some funky noises (hard to describe, almost like a rattle inside/beneath the engine) and started bouncing at idle. I replaced that within a few days and cleared the code, but the noise persisted as well as the idle (but not all the time).
Then last week it was still ratting around with no codes, but died on the highway and had to get it towed home. It would turn over, but wouldn't start. After fiddling a while and trying to start it a bunch, it would no longer turn over, so I figured the battery didn't have enough juice. Trying to jump it, I got sparks like you wouldn't believe. I actually started a small fire, and I hooked up the cables correctly too! I checked all the cables, made sure I was doing it correctly and tried again, same thing. So then I researched and saw that can be caused by a failing battery. Sure enough, the battery was 7 years old, so I went and replaced it. Still no start.
A few days later, checking more at home, it had spark, I can hear the fuel pump turn on, timing belt is in good shape, and the throttle is opening (electronically controlled). Still confused I bought a HEX+CAN and here's the results for Engine:
3 Faults Found:
16497 - Intake Air Temp. Sensor (G42): Signal too High
P0113 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17951 - Angle Sensor 1 for Throttle Actuator (G187): Signal too Small
P1543 - 35-00 - -
17580 - Angle Sensor 2 for Throttle Actuator (G188) Signal too Low
P1172 - 35-00 - -
Readiness: 0110 1101
So after taking apart the throttle to check it to make sure that it indeed was opening like the vag-com said it was, I put it back together and now the car won't crank. Well, I've been testing it for a while, so I figured the new battery was starting to get low, so I went to jump it and I almost started another little fire. The jumper wires heat up like crazy too. Their is no continuity between the negative and positive terminals on the battery, so I'm not sure what's going on.
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I have a 1996 Dodge Ram 1500. The starter does not crank at all. I put the key in and turn it and nothing, just a click. I have replaced the starter/solenoid with a new one and I have charged the battery and it is good (battery is only 8 months old). It still does not crank, nothing.
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I've been fighting with these vehicle for months, and I've only been able to narrow down the list of possible issues. Tried replacing the ignition switch, battery terminals and cables, starter, and even a PCM since according to the dealership it was bad. I've checked all the fuses and relays, and they're all ok.
I'm getting fuel and spark, but no crank from the starter. The voltage going to the hot post on the starter is 12.7, but the voltage from the igniton wire is only reading around .5-.6, fluctuating a bit. Before I spend the money on taking it to a mechanic I wanted to know what your opinions were on what the next step is. I know a bit about electrical systems in cars but I'm no expert.
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Removed battery cables and held together to clear ECU ... Re-attached and no crank not even a click ...
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I have a '99 Passat with the 1.8T and auto trans. that does not always crank over, when you go to start it. Most of the time it cranks over and starts just fine, but there are times when you turn the key to the "start" position and nothing happens. Sometimes you have to turn the key back and forth a few times to get it to start and other times just holding the key in the "start" position for a few seconds and it will start.
I've checked the starter and every time that I applied 12 volts to the terminal 50 at the starter, it worked, but if I go back to start it with the key it goes back to random cranking. I removed the ignition switch and bench tested that with an ohmmeter and it works every time. Do I have something going on with the Starter Interlock Relay?
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Starter clicks wont crank...
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Replaced battery with good battery, terminal post, tested starter (twice), verified that 12V is switched to solenoid by ignition switch, cleaned all contact surfaces, etc. but starter still will not crank.
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1997 Toyota Camry V6. The car won't start, the engine won't crank. I've checked for 12v constant at the starter and that's good. Next I checked for a 12v trigger at the starter. That wasn't present at the starter.
I went to the starter relay. Pulled the starter relay and tested it by applying 12v across two terminals and checked for continuity across the other two. It checked fine.
So I checked for constant 12v into the starter relay, that's present. Checked for 12v trigger into starter relay, that was present also. Next I jumped 12v through starter relay terminal into the starter and the starter cranked the engine. Next I checked for ground into the starter relay, I didn't have continuity.
So I'm guessing it's either a bad ground wire coming into the fuse box or maybe even a bad fuse box? Is my thinking correct? Or is there something else that it could be? Maybe a main fuse or something, IDK, this is the first time I've encountered a problem like this.
What wire is the ground source for the starter relay? I found a wiring diagram from Chiltons (which I've attached to this post for reference) but I'm not really sure which wire is the ground for the starter relay. I don't have the car or relay in front of me to look at the terminal numbers.
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Well I dunno what to do. I tried to start the car many times. The starter (or what ever part it is) seems to crank over and over for about five seconds and then stops. Nothing. Battery is fine. Everything electrical powers up. Just not the engine.
I just recently had the complete timing belt service done and oil change about two weeks ago. That's about it. Now I am a sitting duck tonight....
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I drove to work yesterday, all was fine. Got in the car at lunch time and NO START!! No "parallel" start!!! the car "wakes up", the wheel and tranny unlock, all the dash lights activate but the starter will not crank!!. I did hear 4 or 5 clicks coming from under the car on the first attempt but none after, this morning I heard the same clicks in the first start attempt then nothing after. Here is a scan:
Code:
Thursday,10,July,2014,14:01:01:08208
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator
VCDS Version: 12.12.2.0
Data version: 20140212
[Code] .....
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Already replaced the starter relay will not crank from the key but even when I jump the starter the car still wont start and the switch is in the on position I checked all the fuses and replaced the ecm ....
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Random issue that has progressively been getting worse. I'm assuming it's one of those Sonata quirks that we all deal with.
When you turn the key the starter doesn't try to crank the engine. AC stuff all works properly. I just keep turning and eventually it will turn on.
[URL]...................
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My RC just hit 22k miles a couple of days ago. This morning when I went to turn on my car, it took a couple of extra cranks for the car to turn on. I am dropping the car off tomorrow at Lexus.
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A few weeks ago, I had to replace the starter in my 2002 Camry V6. On its way out, it also fried my AM1 fuse. Well, I bought a starter at Advance (admittedly the cheapest one they had). Now the cars runs great. But every so often the starter either will not crank or it will sound like someone is rapidly turning the it on and off.
Anyway, It's only done that 3 times since I replaced the starter. Here's the weird part. Every time it does that, the stereo and the clock get reset.
I took it to a shop to get diagnosed, but it was acting fine at the time, so the mechanic wasn't able to find anything. He suggested that it was probably the cheap starter, though.
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Problem started within the last 2 days. Get in the car, insert key, turn to start car but the starter doesn't crank. All dash lights are on and I hear a clik when I turn the ignition key. Try it a couple of times and it finally starts. Here are the things I've tested:
1. Battery voltage reads 12.86V. Terminals clean.
2. I disconnected the ignition lead on the starter and connected a voltmeter between the ignition terminal and ground. Turned the key a dozen times and every time it read 12.4V. I'm thinking it may be the starter.
3. Remover starter and took it to a local auto part shop for testing. They say it works fine.
Now I am kinda stuck. I don't think it is the neutral safety switch as I saw 12V each time I turned the ignition. Nothing is completely ruled out yet. I suppose it still could be the safety switch
So I bought a new starter but I'm hesitant to put it in as I'm not sure that is the problem and want to be able to return it if necessary.
Put the old starter back in as I don't completely trust the part store testing. After everything assembled, I turned the ignition and no joy. Tried it a couple of more times and it started.
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I have a 97 chev c/k. 305 vortec 5 spd manual with starting problem. If I turn key to crank it will crank with normal starter sounds but not fire. If I crank for less than 2 sec and release key it starts. Found this when cycling fuel pump to build pressure. Has spark when cranking but not starting. Runs great once started. Truck has 58k (low) miles, all orig.
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