Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2002 F450 - Starter Motor Fuse Kept Blowing / No Crank No Start
Oct 3, 2013
2002 F450 7.3 Turbo
Ok first problem : Starter Motor fuse kept blowing and I spent weeks trying to figure it out. No luck. so wired up a push button just to get the truck started, its a work truck so it was needed asap.
2nd problem : he truck stopped starting completely. Wont start in Park or neutral and after a NEW STARTER (because I thought the solenoid on the starter was bad I replaced it) Everything work correctly for one start with the key. After the second time trying to start it blew the starter fuse again. So I tried the straight wiring to starter. still nothing. I was wondering if there are any shims or anything at the transmission housing to correctly position the starter. I am thinking that maybe the gear is stuck or gets stuck sometimes. when I straight wire the starter it does nothing but the wire gets hot so I know its pulling.
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I have a F450 that I bought a few months ago and have been having trouble with Fuse location 35 blowing. When I purchased the truck the 4x4, tow/haul, and reverse sensing system worked because I had to use it loading and unloading my boat this fall. Since then the snow fell and when I tried to put it into 4x4 I noticed it would not. I checked the passenger compartment fuse (loc. 35) and it was blown.
So I figured it was an easy fix, changed fuse, and it immediately blew again, and again. So then I started checking components related to fuse 35. First i checked the tow/haul switch in the shift lever and thought it was that, so I replaced it, and it still blew fuses. Next, I unplugged the reverse sensing systems and still blew the fuse. Next, I turned my attention to the transfer case shift motor. I replaced it and still blew fuse. So at this point I am stumped.
It is probably worth mentioning that when I replace the fuse initially and turn the key over, all systems work. I can switch the dash switch to 4x4 and it will shift, also the illumination light on the dash comes on. I can also toggle the tow/haul switch and the illumination light on the dash comes on as well. The reverse sensing system also works as well and the light in the switch works as well.
Now and important thing to note is that it seems to hold the fuse for a minute or more with the engine off/ key on, when I start the engine, it works briefly but then the fuse blows. I am not a service tech. by any means but am very comfortable under the hood and have a fairly good understanding of electrical components and their operation. It seems to me that somewhere in the circuit that there is a short to ground or a faulty component(module) or something completely different.
The fact that it takes a minute or so to blow the fuse as compared to an immediate blow when the key is cycled to power on. I would like to fix this myself as with anything I do, I like to educate myself through diagnosis/repair. The last piece of information with mentioning is that before I purchased the truck(30,000 miles ago) it had a factory reman engine installed at a ford dealer. If worse comes to worse I will have to take it to a Ford dealership for service but would like to keep it in house if I could!
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Just bought a used 15 F-250 with 57,000 miles, yesterday tried to start it and nothing happened. Checked the starter fuse and it was blown, replaced it and it immediately blew when i tried to start the truck. Pulled the starter and had it tested and it was good, replaced the relay and still blowing fuses. I have got it to start a couple of times but as soon as you kill the engine and try to restart it blows the fuse. What was the fix? Truck had no problems trying to start before this problem started.....
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My truck keeps blowing fuse 28 in the inside fuse box. This fuse belongs to the ignition relay, and only blows when I go to start the truck. It is intermittent
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I have a 2002 f350 7.3 PS that every time I touch the brake pedal it blows the #6 fuse(trailer tow brake/turn signal). I need to use my trailer.
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Windshield wipers, and washer were suddenly not working the other day, so I discovered a blown fuse. Put a new one in, and it immediately blew again. So there is definitely something grounding out, and I am suspecting the wiper motor itself because so far I have not been able to find any wires shorting out, but before I go to the trouble of pulling the motor out and testing it, or replacing it.
Truck is a 2002 F350CC 7.3 TD. Wipers were working fine the other day before I pressure washed it, which is why I really suspect the wiper motor itself.
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Here's what's happening:
I can have it on hot and be driving along, then it will start blowing cold air. I can move the temperature switch to cold then back to hot, and it'll start blowing hot air again.
Need to know if that would be temp or the motor? I don't want to just change parts randomly.
03 F250
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I have a 96 f350 that I just replaced the batteries on and now when I go to start it does not hardly turn over. Starter just barely turns motor over and definitely not fast enough to start truck. Battery connections are tight and starter was replaced about 4 months ago.
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Let me start out by saying that I have exhausted every option that I have read on every thread that I could find on the internet regarding my son's 2002 7.3L not starting. What I have is no 12v power to the starter solenoid at the starter when I crank the key. What we have done so far, had the starter and both batteries tested, all good. Swapped out the starter motor fuse and the starter relay. Tried a new ignition switch and a new trans position sensor. Found major corrosion in the fusible link junction box on the drivers inner fender so we cut out the fusible links and put in a temporary jumper wire, still no crank. I have power to the dash, power on the power cable at the starter. I can jump the terminals on the starter and the starter engages. I found the shifter linkage bolts loose under the dash and tightened them up also. We have been struggling with this for 3 days, out in the lovely Michigan weather, since it couldn't have died in his parking spot in our heated shop, and I am completely frustrated. Are we overlooking something glaringly obvious?
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2002 F250 V10....
Ambient temp is 4-9 degrees
Step-son borrowed truck. I started it at 9 in the morn and moved it to a different parking spot on street. No problem starting.
Step-son came at 11 and took truck. It started no problem.
He drove it to work. At 5 p.m. would crank, but not start. A jump got it running.
On charger all night. Would not crank this morn. Would not crank even when jumped.
Are we looking at a bad battery or something else?
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We have an 1999 f-450 super duty with a cube van box that we use for pickup. About a month ago the radio and lights started to stay on, various other electronics did the same.
we found mostly it points to the gem module...was unable to obtain a new one so we found a use one. For the time being we started disconnecting the battery ( would kill both overnight ) and magically....everything was working again so we didn't bother installed the used GEM.
Now....its given Chirstine a run for her money and auditioning for a maximum overdrive reboot The starter started to turn. Took the keys outa the ignition but a few moments later it started again. Got to the point the starter wouldn't stop and we were running around the shop looking for tools to disconnect the batteries.
Its not starting the engine so the ignition should be ok, its just powering the starter motor. checked the relay and it seems to be working fine. We tried to install the GEM we bought however, it seems its not the right part and its too late to return it now so, we are trying to find a new one ( not used ) from somewhere. so the gem is bad as the radio, blower motor etc comes on and off at will but here's the kicker.... with the GEM removed...the starter is still powering itself....
Thought maybe the fuse box got moisture or something, put a heater on it to dry it out. Pulled the starter fuse, turned off...pulled radio fuse samething
so i think the fuse box is ok.
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My problem had been intermittent for last few days. I have a Ford Crew Cab - 7.3 Powerstroke Diesel. The ford store told me it would cost hundreds of dollars to chase this short- to wait til it finally burns out then - bring truck to them.?
My fuse # 45 a 10 AMP fuse . Keeps blowing out. This fuse controls the gauges on dashboard and fuel peddle. I can start engine and if gauges come up like they should- I can place into driver - and give engine fuel from peddle- gauges down dead and no fuel go to motor. It just idles and still runs and will still move forward or backward. But only at idle speed.
I could replace blown fuse - #45 - 10 amp and it would a the first few times would go and work normally.
Now everytime I replace fuse it blows fuse - sometimes after putting 10 or more fuses in- one might work until I stop or put into park. Then fuse blows again??
Last night and today it took no less than 20 - 10amp fuses to get close to home and end up straight wiring with a small piece of electrical wire - severing as a jumper- it ran great - til I stop at mail box and got mail - saw slight smoke and pulled wire quickly out and idled down driveway to house..
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I have an 02 F450 with a dump bed an just under 45,000 miles (was barley used by the first owner). This maybe unrelated to my problem but is worth mentioning. This past week I noticed a small puddle where I had previously parked at a customers house so I checked the oil. I was about 2 quarts low. I followed the oil trail up and found a pool in the valley. One of the high pressure lines were loose and the seal was chewed up so I replaced it and tightened it. No more oil leak.
Now my new problem. Two days later, after about 45 minutes on the interstate driving about 75 mph the truck started to rapidly lose power as if it was running out of fuel. I heard a loud ticking sound coming from the engine and the more I tried to accelerate the worse it got. I pulled over and the truck stalled. I thought that maybe my fuel gauge had crapped the bed on me because it still read a little over 1/4 tank. I called a buddy and got more deisal in it and it started right up. We'll after about 5 minutes of 60 mph it started to happen again. So to fast forward... I opened up the tank and found the the strainer had crumbled in the bottom of the tank.
So I cleaned out the screens in the sending unit and replaced the strainer, replaced the fuel filter, and reverse blew out the lines. I read about checking the hpop reservoir for oil and it is present. So to sum up, as long as I stay under 60mph or so I can get about 5 minutes of run time before the truck starts to stutter and stumble. If I shut it off for about 5minutes I can go back up to 60 again but it the cycle continues. 5 on and 5 off. If I start the truck after say 30 seconds after shutting it off it sounds like it's going to die and has no power at all. I have worked on a lot of vehicles but none with anything like this and this is my first deisal. What do I do to get this beast back to normal?
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I have a 1999 f350 7.3. Turn the key lights and fuel pump come on but the starter wont crank. I replaced the starter and checked all the fuses i could find. The only way i can get the truck to crank is by jumping the relay under the hood .
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Started my truck the other day no problems,minute into the start truck shuts right off like someone turned key. Checked fuses , #30 fuse under the column was blown, replaced it and tried to start truck. No luck fuse keeps popping. After changing again i was able to get truck started for a second and POP goes the fuse?
1999 F550 superduty 7.3....
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1999 ford superduty keep blowing the 30 amp fuse under the dash, want let it start, why this is happening and the cause of it.
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Why I"am blowing #19 fuse it is a 10 amp fuse. It is in the passenger compartment fuse panel. It controls the auxiliary powertrain control module (diesel only),Instrument Cluster, GEM Module, Overdrive Cancel Switch, Idel Validation (Diesel only), Overhead Console and Diesel PCM via Clutch. I would like to know where to start looking to solve this problom.
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2015 F350 6.2, 4 door 8' bed FX4...... 17,200 miles.
This morning when outside to start it (nice sunny morning) and turned the key and all the dash lights went on and also went crazy. Said it had all kind of problems on the dash, Trac system, Over heating and so on. The starter did not crank over at all. Tried this about 8 times in 45 minutes, no worky. Call Ford, they towed it to the dealer. I last drove it 2 days ago. All stock, no programmer.
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I have 1999 ford f250 superduty 5.4 v8 I noticed that my tail lights were not working I replaced the fuse as it was blown break lights worked until i cranked up and applied brakes. I replaced fuse again an checked brake lights they worked fine until i cranked truck and applied the brakes i did notice the wires were hot at brake pedal switch when they worked while not cranked. I replaced the cruise control release switch I was told that may be the problem since cruise didn't work. it fixed the cruise control but as soon as i pressed the brakes fuse blew again.I replaced brake pedal switch didnt fix it.
I then noticed a little smoke under tailgate i looked and the wire coming out of connector was hot while brakes applied and not cranked. i disconnected that wire put a new fuse in and brake lights worked in center light and passenger side without blowing fuse driver side however does not work. Because I disconnected the brake light wire to driver side green wire. When I reconnected the driver side brake light wire fuse blew.
So I have it narrowed down to driver side brake light. here is my problem. I have checked all the wires that i can see for bad or frayed /worn naked places i have found none I can get to the wires beside gas tank running the rail to check but it is doubtful that it is spot as nothing is rubbing along there. Could it be a relay somewhere? can i just run a new wire from brake light? if so where to i connect to? Is there a wiring harness i can just buy and replace the brake light wires from brake light to power source I have ran out of things to check on my own...
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I keep blowing the fuse to the headlights. When low beam is on, the right blinker flashes the low lights. When high beam is on, the blinker works. when I turn on the low lights, my cluster light indicators show the right blinker dim and the high beam indicator light is also dim.
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I blew 2 fuses the other night, one in my power point and one in my lighter. I was using my ipod in the lighter and my beacon light outta the powerpoint. i changed them both (20 amp) and the lighter is fine but the power point keeps popping. What the problem might be? I would take it right to ford but unfortunately my warranty expired 9 days ago...
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