Jeep - CJ-7 :: 1976 - Lurching When Go Down The Road As If Gas Is Not Flowing Completely
Apr 19, 2013
I have a 76 Jeep CJ 7 with a 258, straight six with a 2 barrel carb. If the jeep sits for a long time, it takes a while to warm up and it lurches as i go down the road as if the gas is not flowing completely or the fuel pump is not working properly. Once warmed up, it runs fine. However, the lurching is becoming more frequent and seems to become more consistent at higher speeds. It seems like a gas flow issue, although i have not done any diagnostics to check other issues.
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I have a 2000 Jeep Wrangler, manual transmission, 6-cylinder. I accidentally let the battery die in September. I got a jump, and it was fine until we got a cold snap. (We live in NJ.) On the first cold day (October), the battery was dead again. The battery is about 4 years old. I got it jumped, and it was fine, but the CE light came on. I have been dealing with the CE light and generally lousy engine performance ever since. (The car is lurching and hiccuping.) I have had it to the shop four times since the initial dead battery in September.
I bring it to the shop, they hook it up to the computer, and each time it indicates a sensor problem. They have replaced the 02 sensor, the TPS sensor, cleaned the throttle body, replaced several spark plugs, and swapped out the clockspring. It has been to the shop four times in the past 5 weeks. I even switched mechanics after the first one said he was going to replace the 02 sensor and I looked at my records and pointed out that he had already done that back in June. (At that point, they said "Oh"" and tried replacing the TPS sensor.) The 2nd mechanic also got the TPS sensor code and I told him that the previous mechanic had already replaced that one, as well.
He went to a discussion website for mechanics and discovered a "design flaw" that a majority of mechanics said could be rectified by replacing the clockspring. So he tried that. Every time one of these guys does something, the CE light goes off and they test-drive it and it seems fine. Then I come to pick it up, after hours, hours later, when the car has completely cooled off, and the CE light is back on. Yesterday I picked it up and the CE light was on but at least it was running better. Then I drove it 90 miles and it was hiccuping badly by the end of the trip. Also, I filled up my gas tank at the beginning of the trip, and the tank is now between 1/2 and 3/4 full. Horrible mileage. My husband made the same trip in a different car, also a Jeep, and also filled up at the beginning, and his tank is more than 3/4 full.
I know I can take it to Auto Zone and get the code, but I'm not hopeful that the code will say anything other than what it has already said, i.e. O2 or TPS sensor.
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I have a 97 Wrangler 4 liter that lurches violently. It runs fine until the engine is warmed up. After the engine warms up it it begins lurching. When I put the clutch in, the lurching stops. When I let the clutch out, it is okay for 1-2 seconds (i can get power and advance the vehicle), then I put the clutch in and repeat that process. When I give it a little gas with the clutch in, the engine runs smooth - so it doesn't appear to be a gas problem. When I give it gas with the clutch out it lurches violently.
After pulling it into my garage I let it idle to about 5 minutes. It idles rough and is about to stall, when it apparently shoots a little more gas preventing it from stalling.The check engine light has come on. I took it to my local mechanic who cannot find the problem. The "computer code" indicates a faulty oxygen sensor. He also checked the fuel pressure which is okay.It has 120K miles and otherwise has been a great vehicle. It has been well maintained.
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I have a 1999 Jeep Cherokee Sport, 4.0L (6 cylinder) that has 128,000 miles on it. Within the last two months it has started lurching 1 to 3 times per week. It only lurches once but always when the engine is hot and when accelerating. The engine light does not come on. It also loses power for several seconds at other times. Lastly, it has stalled two times in three weeks when I am coming to a stop. The spark plugs and air filter were changed last week. The injectors were also cleaned.
I do not have the skills to fix it and am taking it to the dealership which is very expensive - thus the money drain. Any thoughts on what might be going on? Or is it better to just cut my losses and look for another car. I would really like to keep this car for another year because I am in graduate school but am not willing to continue with the money drain.
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A few weeks ago, my employees were driving home one of my work trucks, a 2001 F350 7.3 4x4 Crew w. 130K miles. They were on a straight road in a small town when the steering went completely out. The truck veered into a telephone pole. No one was injured. The truck has major damage to the front passenger's side.
I finally got the truck back to my shop today. It is quite evident what caused the problem. The gear/splined shaft that protrudes from the steering box and is connected to the pitman arm sheared completely off.
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I have a 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. I took it to the dealership on June 30, for a routine oil change and other maintenance that was due. They did a cooling system flush, and oil change, a power steering flush, and a brake system flush, along with a multipoint inspection, and replaced the belt and tensioner. On July 18 on my way to work in traffic, the vehicle completely shut down with no warning signals. Shortly after the check engine light, the oil light came on. Until then, I had not noticed any warning lights.
At this time I reached down to get a bottle of tea from the passenger front floor board and noticed a slightly oily pink brown liquid on the plastic floor mat. When it was towed to the dealership, they tore the engine apart and reported that the engine overheated, the valve seats came off, the valves hit the pistons splashing metal onto the cylinder walls and requiring an engine rebuild. Is the dealership responsible for not having discovered whatever problem caused the engine to break down? Or causing it somehow during the maintenance on June 30? They feel it is not related.
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My dad has a Jeep Liberty that has been having some trouble while on the road. It's a 2007 and it's got close to 300,000 miles on it. Now, I'm not great with cars - I can change a tire and probably tell you how my oil looks, but even I know 300,000 is a solid amount of mileage for any car to have. A while ago, the Liberty broke down while my dad was out and he had to have it towed to the mechanic. Mechanic said he thought a plate within the battery had shifted and so he replaced the battery. Not long after that, the car died on my dad again. He describes the car as going haywire right before he has to pull over. Indicator lights starting going on, dials (such as the tachometer) would jump back and forth and the engine would rev without hitting the accelerator. And after he stops the car, it doesn't start up again.
When my dad was able to get it back to the mechanic after that second instance, the mechanic said he thought the Electronic Control Unit (ECU?) might have been fried by the battery and had it sent to the dealer to have the unit replaced. They replaced the control unit and the car ran for a while, but sure enough while my dad was out one day, the check engine light came on and it appeared that the car was once again going to freak out and die on him. He was able to make it back home, yet the car has been sitting in the driveway ever since. I turned the Liberty on today and just moved it around the driveway and I noticed the check engine light is still on and a "Part-Time" indicator light that is on, but flickered while I had the car running.
From what I understand, the Check Engine light has been perpetually lit at many times during the life of the car even after tune-ups and inspections. Could this be an electrical problem or mechanical? My dad thinks it might have something to do with the transmission, since it has been replaced before. Now, my dad and I are both aware that the Liberty is close to being laid to rest, but we also both think that it's still got some life in it worth trying to save. I had a problem with my motorcycle that seemed similar to this problem, between the haywire tachometer, the engine revving without hitting the gas, and not starting up after stopping the engine. Turned out that it was a short that caused that problem and it was quickly fixed by a mechanic. I know that does not mean it will be the same diagnosis, but that is what the Liberty problem sounds like to me.
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I've noticed a couple times since I've filled my tank up that it over flows before the gas pump clicks off, this has been at two separate gas stations. I've always put the nozzle back as soon as it clicks off, not one of those retarded people that fill go CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK until it over flow or because they want to round it off. I've never changed that fuel breather filter, or what ever it's called. I didn't think it's needed. 107k here.
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It is a 2002 Camry XLE 4 cyl with 175000 miles. I have been using this car since 2002.
When I turn on the car in the morning, I hear gurgling sound somewhere in the front. Also when I stop and then accelerate the car I hear the sound like water flowing. What is it?
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I have an 09 Camry SE. My right windshield spray nozzle is not spraying, it's just flowing out. I ran a small wire down it and nothing changed. I called 2 dealers and looked up the part and there are 5 different angles listed the dealers said I had to remove it so they could match the angle for the pitch of the windshield. Seems ridiculous that they would not know,but the parts breakdown lists all 5.
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My 1976 Chevy Blazer K5, runs and drives excellent. But when I take it up into the mountains 4 wheeling, there is a problem. Any time that one or the other of the front tires goes up on a hill and there is any twist to the frame, I get this constant grinding noise. If I stop and put it in park, it still grinds and wont stop until the front tires on the same plane. What could this be?
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I bought a truck recently and I am attempting to get the alternator to charge. A previous owner hacked up the wiring pretty badly. We found that they had connected the voltage regulator to the horn relay for some reason. Anyway, I am trying to get it rewired and have searched existing threads for info and I thought that I had the wiring sorted out, however it is still not charging the battery.
The alternator has been tested and works. The voltage regulator is new. This is how it is currently wired.
Regulator A Terminal --> Battery side of started solenoid --> Alternator Batt Post
Regulator F Terminal --> Alternator Fld Post
Regulator S Terminal --> Alternator Sta Post
Regulator I Terminal --> Empty
Regulator body --> Radiator Support --> Alternator Ground Post --> Neg batt
When running, the battery is showing about 11.8 and slowly dropping as it runs. The truck has an ammeter in the dash, however it looks like it is no longer connected. Does it need to be connected in order for the alternator to charge the battery?
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Does this sound like a choke issue? The car starts up fine and runs like a top. It even drives normally for about a mile, but then as the engine warms up it starts losing compression when I press the gas pedal. The engine runs fine when my foot isn't on the gas, but stutters and won't go anywhere when I'm pressing the gas.
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I bought a great 76' SuperCab with a 390 4 barrel Wednesday (the 30th) and while driving around the neighborhood this evening the truck just lost all power and came to a stop. No lights, no engine, nothing and I cruised to an easy stop (fortunately at the end of my own block). I thought I smelled a bit of electrical burn for a moment after I came to a stop but could not track it down before the smell disappeared.
Some early symptoms - on drive home from purchase, the turn signal light function was in and out. The starter was also turning slowly and sounded tired/weak. The ignition switch was a bit loose and previous owner said you had to make sure the key was not all the way to the right or accessories would not work.
Some early checks/fixes- replaced battery and battery cables and checked grounds. Starter began turning stronger and turn signal lights were back. Thought I had it going well.
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I've got a 76 F-250 4x4 C6 and the transmission has been kind of quirky since I've owned it. I'm starting to tow with it occasionally and I'd like to get this sorted out. It only has issues cold. After 5 minutes at most its good to go, probably more like 2-3 minutes. After that it works 100% as it should.
When cold, reverse is really weak. If I fire it up cold and go for reverse it will hardly move. If I put it in neutral and run it at 2000rpm for about 30 seconds it will pull but still weak. And after getting out on the road 1st and 2nd are great but 3rd gear is basically non-existent, all slip. I just hold it in 2nd for a few minutes then its fine. There are absolutely no issues when it warms up. I was towing my Bronco with it and absolutely no slippage at all. I'm dealing with it for now. Don't back up when cold and hold it in 2nd for a bit when cold only. That or rev it before reverse etc.
I have adjusted the band. I have never changed the fluid. I did buy new fluid for it but have not done it. Who knows that kind of fluid is even in it. The fluid is a little dark but its really not that bad and doesn't smell burnt. I'm in the market for a 4 door super duty so I might just have to limp it along until then.
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I have a significant amount of play in my steering wheel, and I notice a clicking/clunking sound in the steering wheel when the steering actually moves the tires. This makes it very hard to drive in a straight line, and that's kind of important when your car is 19 feet long . Is there anything that could be cheaply/easily fixed to remedy this?
1976 Lincoln Mark IV.....
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So I have 1976 f100. For the last few months I have been dealing with the famous death wobble of solid axle trucks. It seems to randomly appear at speeds over 45mph or after hitting a speed bump or cattle guard. I have tried several things like replace all the bushings in the front. Ive looked for any bars with play and fixed them right away. And I even replaced the ball joints thinking it would work. I actually let another mechanic to solve the problem, I was fine for about 3 days. I am running out of parts to check and its hard to drive it down the road.
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I have a 1976 Ford F100 with a 302 and my problem is sometimes when my engine is running and I try to cut it off, it continues to run and the only way to stop it is to jerk the coil wire off. This is an intermittent problem. Happens about every 6 or 7 times I drive it. I have replaced the ignition switch and still have the same problem. Pretty sure it is some type wiring or ground issue, just need someplace to start.
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I have a 76 f250/460 engine. I have replaced the hoses, belts, water pump, fan clutch, flowed the radiator and it still overheats.
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I've got a 2012 F250 SD and when i go over some bumps in the road or even down a gravel road, the door panel on the driver side vibrates and it's noisy. Is there any way to pull the panel and add some foam padding or something to stop this? I can see the panel vibrate or heck, maybe it the whole door.
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My 2012 RX350 now for over a year and like it a lot.........BUT.
There's seems to be a lot "road noise" that's transmitted back into the cabin, like driving over expansion joints on blacktop or rough road surface, is this normal?
I drove a 2000 RX300 for 100,000 miles and don't remember it being this noisy. Interior noise is great and quiet.
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