LS / MKZ :: 2002 3.9l LSE Cranks For A Long Time Before Starting
Mar 9, 2009
I have a 2002 v8 lse with 92000. When i go to start it after it has been sitting for 20 minutes or more it cranks for a long tome before starting. When it does start it idles fine but has a strong fuel smell. There are no codes and no problems once it starts. However it starts up right away in cold weather. It seems like a flooding issue. The fuel pressure is within range but it does seem to bleed off quicker than most cars i work on when the engine is no longer running..
Unfortunately I don't have the specs on on fuel pressure runoff. I suspect the fuel pressure sensor/regulator. I don't believe it would be an injector due to the fact it never runs rough or misses once started and if it was the pump it wouldn't give off a fuel smell in the exhaust once started.
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Tried to start it, it just cranks for a long time, it can't even hold an idle. After 5 minutes of cranking and trying to get it running, it starts up just fine like there isn't even a problem. It just started to happen today. I have a 2004 v6 2.6 glx, completely stock.
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My 2005 Honda Accord EX V6 with 118,000 miles cranks a bit too long. The issue was due to corroded battery terminals. I cleaned the positive terminal of its snow but it seemed to be the same. Yesterday I also cleaned the negative side. It starts better, but I had hoped that after a day of driving, it would have returned to normal. How long should I drive it before I pull the battery and get it tested? There seems to be plenty of cranking going on. It just hesitates and eventually starts. I drove about 40 minutes to work this morning and the same coming home, all on the highway. If I restart shortly after shutting down, it starts just as quickly as it used to.
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I have a 2009 Toyota Corolla (It has a 1ZZFE engine). The car for a long time was a little problem when starting (long cranks and several tries before starting, but no check engine light at all), then, after adjusting the PVC hose for 3 days the car worked perfectly, but one week ago, in the morning when trying starting, it was impossible. I scanned and got a U0100 code, tested crankshaft position sensor and it is ok, tried with the other key but same result, only cranks, no start at all. After scanning, it started briefly and suddenly went off, tried again, and only cranks.
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2005 5.4L She would have a hard time starting before but after I replaced and fixed everything below she was running really good. Now back to sputtering, taking a long time to start and now not starting at all.
I have replaced; Fuel Pump, Fuel Filter, FPDM, Plugs and COP's, FRP Sensor, followed the power wire from the FDPM and found it corroded bad so I replaced it, also changed the ground location on the FDPM, I have checked all the wires from the FDPM to the drivers seat, checked all fuses.
I have power to FPDM and I have the diagram for the plug but how can I test (hotwire) the Fuel Pump without lowering the fuel tank? What should be the voltage coming from the FPDM plug? not sure about pin 1 & 6.
How can I test the FRP sensor? what are the specs for voltage?
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So my 2002 ford explorer with the 4.0 L V6, has been cranking along time before it starts. I thought i had this figured out already, i put a brand new fuel pump in it from the ford dealer. That seemed to work, but the problem came back.
Especially when it is cold, it cranks a lot longer than normal to start. and when it does start RMPS go way up briefly and come back down. Seems to only act up when its cold out, say 35 degrees and lower.
So the remote start wont work because it only cranks for a few seconds and then stops. it tries this three times and it gives up. i go out there to start it and cranks for 10 seconds it seems like, sometimes i have to feather the fuel pedal.
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My Focus has 102,000 miles. It has thrown a p0171 code and I have been attempting to fix it. So far this is what I have done:Changed MAF, air filter, PCV Valve, plugs, Valve cover gaskets, Bank 1 O2 sensor and fuel filter. All new. I have cleaned the throttle body, fuel rail intake manifold. Cannot hear vacuum leaks and tested for leaks with carb cleaner.
Symptoms: engine cranks but has a hard time starting, usually on second try. When tank is about half full I get Rough acceleration, higher RPMs (doesn't change gear) and engine stalls on hard left turns. Idle gets rough at times but usually stabilizes at around 700 rpms.
At the beginning, #1 spark plug chamber had a lot of oil in it. It's been a few months and no oil after Valve cover gasket and PCV change. Tested coils and the plugs get a spark. Before I start messing with the fuel pump, am I missing something else that I can do?
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My wife's Pathfinder (a 2002) has developed a problem with slow starting. The car cranks well (even at -20F, so it's not a weak battery) but takes a long time to start. It might crank for 5 seconds before sputtering to life. After being driven and shut off, most of the time, it will start up instantly again, just like it used to before the problem started. The problem is intermittent in that it sometimes starts pretty quickly in the morning, although it's not the instant start that it used to be, it might only crank for 1 second or less. I know that sounds like a normal time for a car to crank before starting, but the Pathfinder used to start, almost literally, instantly after the key was turned. So, even 1 second is an uncharacteristically long time.
What I've done:
-- Replaced spark plugs
-- Swapped the starter relays with identical relays under hood
-- Replaced fuel filter
What I haven't done:
--Replaced fuel pump
--Replaced fuel pressure regulator
Both of these are somewhat big jobs (I think I can handle both of them) and more expensive than what I've already done, so I'd like to get some input on where the fault could lie before picking one. Or, am I completely off base thinking it's fuel system?
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I have a 2002 Ford Windstar that only in the fall and winter it has a longer crank time of at least 10 seconds. In the summer it starts as it should within 3-4 seconds. I did notice that the times it did start normally in the colder air is when I turned the key on and listened to the fuel pump prime the system. All other times it doesn't do that and that's when I get the long crank time. Once it is started it runs as normal. Am I looking at a possible fuel filter or pump? I am due to replace the filter as the van has 83,000 miles on it. If this is the possible culprit, is this something that is easily replaced at home?
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2002 7.3 Power Stroke... I bought the truck about 4 months ago and I absolutely love it but over the last few weeks is has been acting funny at times, it doesn't do it all the time but it has been getting progressively worse, ill drive the truck all day and no problems when I shut it off and go to start it again it just cranks but won't fire.
* Batteries are charged and in good condition, oil is a little dirty but full, I have no codes or check engine light on, and my wait to start light seems to be working fine!
* If I supply a fuel source(starting fluid) the truck will fire but not stay running
* And let it sit for 15 to 45 minutes fires right up like there was never an issue.
* There are no blown fuses
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Need to diagnose my truck issues. On my 2002 F250 V10, when I try to start it, the engine just cranks and cranks and cranks with no fire or even hint if starting. I am not sure if it has no spark or isn't getting any fuel. I just replaced all ten spark plugs and coils less than 500 miles ago. I want to perform the fix myself, but I need to get the problem diagnose the issue first.
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Truck stalls out and cranks hard for 7-10 seconds before starting if I don't let it warm up adequately before I start driving. Transmission is hesitant to shift. Also, white smoke comes out exhaust if it's cold and I get in the throttle too much or if I hit 70+mph.
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My 2002 Ford F-150 4x4 4.6L 5speed strangely has a time delay in starting now. A delay in TIME and not the usually chucking along waiting to start. Or simply I turn the key and a second or two passes before anything starts to happen and it fires right up. Was wondering a few months ago, if my clutch sensor was going out but then it cleared up once I put a new battery in it although at the same time the weather warmed also. Bad connection somewhere, bad ignition switch, or bad clutch position sensor – I could go in each of these directions. Thought maybe the security in the key was doing it too but both keys have the same problem. No codes also.
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Code P0322 Mod10 Ignition/Dist Engine Speed Input Circuit no signal. Car had a hard time starting, then stalling, now it has been fine since the weekend.
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So it often just cranks for 15 seconds before it fires. I put the fuel pressure guage on it and you turn the key on but don't engage the starter it goes to 30 psi then back to 0 in a 2 second time frame. It then stays at zero. when you engage the starter pressure slowly goes up and it starts running while running its a consistent 60 psi.
I presume its the fuel regulator but why does it not go up to 60 psi and why does it just stop with the KOEO? Is it reasonable to just replace the regulator? or should I be replacing the fuel pump to at the same time? I will be doing this from under the truck since there is a lot of hard mounted equipment in the bed.
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So ive had a starting issue in the R32 for quite some time now. With waterfest approaching and the new S3 going into production that i ordered, it has come time to finally fix it. I have taken in to many dealerships and very talented techs, and no one has any idea. The car seems to crank for a very long time or start right up and then just completely stall and die. The second time i start it, it starts completely fine like nothing ever happened. This only happens when the car sits for a few hours. It has never done it if the car has sit overnight or during the cold months. It has to be warm and sit for a specific amount of time. Its like it catches the car transferring into a cold start but not fully cold yet, if that makes sense. Also i am now noticing a small squeak each time it starts, like a belt. I have replaced the fuel pump/spark plugs/coil packs. Nothing has changed. We thought maybe a stuck injector but were doubtful as its not constant. Im debating a cam position sensor just to see if thats the issue. There is no CEL or any codes.
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I replaced the battery in my 07 3.6 4mo thinking it was in need due to the cranking time getting longer and longer recently. I began to notice this since the winter. I think it was somewhat there in the summer and fall also but when its super cold or the car has been run in a day or so it seems to be worse. Anyway replaced the battery and it didn't change much at all.
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I have a 2003 Saab 9-3 convertible that is having intermittent starting problems. It seems to happen when the car has been driven long distances and the weather is hot or when it is raining. It cranks fine but will not start. When it is hot, I open the hood and it starts after about 10 minutes. When it is wet is starts after being cranked for a white. My mechanic has replaced the ignition cassette and the spark plugs and it has not fixed the problem.
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i dont have to much money right now to buy a new starter but possibly in a week or so. Will this damage anything on my car???
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I have a 2006 Sonata GLS with the 3.3L V6 and close to 230,000 miles. A few months ago I noticed that my crank time at starting was longer than typically - it has steadily gotten worse.
Now the crank time is close to 8 - 10 seconds. (Which might not seem like much but trust me, it is).
I suspected that the fuel pump was faulty, however, once started - it runs great.
I put a pressure gauge on the fuel pump outlet and found that it only kicks the pump on when the car is cranking, the fuel pump does not kick on when the key is in the "on" position. Once the vehicle starts, it seems to be drawing fuel.
The pump has all sorts of pressure, I am not worried about that.
I decided to change the Fuel pressure regulator valve thinking that maybe it wasn't holding pressure - That didn't seem to do anything.
Do I need to change the entire Fuel Pump Assembly?
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My car has been throwing an ABS code for a long time now and I've finally decided to actually deal with it.
The code is: 00285 - ABS Wheel Speed Sensor Front Right (G45): Electrical Fault in Circuit
After reading that this could be due to a bad sensor, I replaced the front right sensor, but I am still getting the exact same code. I used measuring blocks in VCDS-Lite to check out what was going on with the wheel speeds and found that at speeds less than 20 km/h, the front right sensor reads 0 km/h, while all the others continue to read the proper speed.
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