Saab - 9-3 :: Intermittent Starting When Car Has Been Driven For Long
Jun 4, 2015
I have a 2003 Saab 9-3 convertible that is having intermittent starting problems. It seems to happen when the car has been driven long distances and the weather is hot or when it is raining. It cranks fine but will not start. When it is hot, I open the hood and it starts after about 10 minutes. When it is wet is starts after being cranked for a white. My mechanic has replaced the ignition cassette and the spark plugs and it has not fixed the problem.
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I am going on vacation in May and am curious how long the C can sit if it's not started or driven? I have read that it can drain or possibly damage the battery from sitting to long, so just how long is o.k.? It seems like a pain to have to find someone to start up or drive the car while on vacation.
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I have a 2005 Mitsubishi Endevour XLS w/23000 miles, when the car has been driven for long distances or especially after sitting in a hot parking lot all day, I cannot remove the ignition key. The car has been serviced by the Mitsubishi dealer three times for this, including the Endevour recall for this problem.
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I'm trying to think of what gets affected on a vehicle which is driven about 20 to 25k miles a year. I'm looking to purchase one with the following description.
2006, 4.7L V8 is bulletproof, but with 165k miles already, what should I look for when inspecting the vehicle?
It's been dealer serviced. Is there anything other than normal wear and tear items that might be negatively impacted by doing so many road trips (lets say 300 miles at a time) That would be around 550 trips of 300 miles in 6 years.
The reason I ask this rather than just looking at the truck is because I'm in Dallas and the truck is at a Houston dealer... So before I drive out there, I wanted to "assume" what affect this kind of usage would do to an engine.
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I have a 1990 Toyota Celica that won't seem to start after I've driven it awhile. After sitting, it takes around 4 or 5 hours for it to start again (although this is highly variable). The first start of the day is always normal. Recently it will stall at idle, then have trouble starting up. The engine seems to "try harder" to start if I press the gas.
The weird thing is that I was able to start it up easily today by popping the clutch. This has been a problem I've been struggling with for a few months, and over that time I have replaced the starter, battery, fuel pump, spark plugs and wires, and EFI/Main Engine relays. It always cranks, just no start.
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I have a 2001 9-5 that has exhibited a problem for maybe two or three years now: It sometimes fails to start (won't even crank) after a short drive and sitting for about an hour.
I drive to a pool almost every morning, swim for about an hour, and then drive back. It always starts fine first thing in the morning, but once in a while it won't start after swimming. When it fails to start, if I wait about 30 minutes, it then starts fine, as if there never was a problem.
It happens maybe once every few weeks. The dealer has never been able to get it to reproduce, nor to find any fault. If I replace the battery anyway, the problem doesn't happen again for 6-12 month. There's never any indication that the battery is at fault (it always tests fine), but replacing it seems to work for a while.
I have a radar detector plugged in to the cigarette lighter, and it displays the voltage. When the car fails to start, the display is generally just below 12v (maybe 11.8 or 11.9). Once it starts, it's well above 12.
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2009 Civic has an intermittent ac during long distance trips. About 1hour into a trip it feels warm I turn the blower up higher. I can turn it to the highest setting and it sounds like it's blowing at full blast but no air is coming out at all. I turn the ac off completely for 45 mins to an hour to "thaw" then it comes back on. Dealer had it 6 times now only once they were able to replicate the problem. The blower motor, expansion valve & termistor have been replaced.
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I have a 2002 v8 lse with 92000. When i go to start it after it has been sitting for 20 minutes or more it cranks for a long tome before starting. When it does start it idles fine but has a strong fuel smell. There are no codes and no problems once it starts. However it starts up right away in cold weather. It seems like a flooding issue. The fuel pressure is within range but it does seem to bleed off quicker than most cars i work on when the engine is no longer running..
Unfortunately I don't have the specs on on fuel pressure runoff. I suspect the fuel pressure sensor/regulator. I don't believe it would be an injector due to the fact it never runs rough or misses once started and if it was the pump it wouldn't give off a fuel smell in the exhaust once started.
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I replaced the battery in my 07 3.6 4mo thinking it was in need due to the cranking time getting longer and longer recently. I began to notice this since the winter. I think it was somewhat there in the summer and fall also but when its super cold or the car has been run in a day or so it seems to be worse. Anyway replaced the battery and it didn't change much at all.
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i dont have to much money right now to buy a new starter but possibly in a week or so. Will this damage anything on my car???
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Went on a long drive today. 800+ miles. Stopped to fill up around 500 in. Attempted to turn the car back on and it would just crank and not start. This has actually been ongoing for the past 2 years, but only when I take long trips like these. Got it to start after putting my foot on the pedal a little bit, but would idle roughly and die shortly after. Got it going again, and it ran fine once I started going after that.
Decided to check my scangauge, and it had a pending code of P2196. From what I understand according to AllData, the O2 sensor is running rich, which seems odd to me as I'm not burning more gas than usual (Achieved 33mpg according to hand calculations).
Starting to bug me that it's doing this. Car has 113k miles. All maintenance is caught up on the car. Battery is 3 years old (Not sure if that's a factor at all in this).
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2003 6.0 will fire within 2 seconds when cold, literally a "bump the key" and she fires up scenario. Recently and only when the engine is hot I'm getting extended crank times and sometimes it takes several attempts for the truck to start. I replaced the HPOP with an upgraded pump after the factory HPOP went out at 311,000 miles. I know this sounds like a standpipe leak scenario but it doesn't act up all the time, sometimes it fires right up even when its hot. my thinking is a leak is a leak and only gets worse.
My IPR is reading in the 26% range, FICM is steady in the 47.5 to 48 volt range and at idle 585 to 600 psi on the ICP with a good FICM sync. I'm going to to use my scan gauge and see if I can catch an extended crank scenario to see if the ICP is reaching 500 psi but is there somewhere else I should be looking? FICM relays possibly? I've noticed when i turn the key on I'll hear the fuel pump,vacuum pump but the clicking sound is very brief or nonexistent (not sure what the clicking noise is from I assumed glow plugs but its absence is noticed)...
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My stereo fuse had blown off and while trying to find it, i removed all the fuses one by one to see which one was blown. I found the fuse, changed it, stereo was back to life. Only problem is that right before removing the fuses the car was driving normal. After checking the fuses the car seems to take longer to start; starter keeps turning for twice the time it did before. Also it seems as if the turbo is not even there. Btw the car is a golf mk4 tdi 150 bhp 2001 model
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My 2005 Honda Accord EX V6 with 118,000 miles cranks a bit too long. The issue was due to corroded battery terminals. I cleaned the positive terminal of its snow but it seemed to be the same. Yesterday I also cleaned the negative side. It starts better, but I had hoped that after a day of driving, it would have returned to normal. How long should I drive it before I pull the battery and get it tested? There seems to be plenty of cranking going on. It just hesitates and eventually starts. I drove about 40 minutes to work this morning and the same coming home, all on the highway. If I restart shortly after shutting down, it starts just as quickly as it used to.
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I have a 2009 Toyota Corolla (It has a 1ZZFE engine). The car for a long time was a little problem when starting (long cranks and several tries before starting, but no check engine light at all), then, after adjusting the PVC hose for 3 days the car worked perfectly, but one week ago, in the morning when trying starting, it was impossible. I scanned and got a U0100 code, tested crankshaft position sensor and it is ok, tried with the other key but same result, only cranks, no start at all. After scanning, it started briefly and suddenly went off, tried again, and only cranks.
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I have a 2001 E-350 w/7.3. When I start the truck first thing or when engine is cooled down it starts fine. I checked the high pressure pump pressure and it is 500 - 600 psi start up great. But when engine warms and try to start it it has long crank before starting. I checked pressure and it is between 425 to0 450 and takes awhile for it to get to 500 or better. Is this a cause of the high pressure oil pump ? I changed the oil and still does same thing. Also I noticed that after engine is hot and I try to start it, while cranking the engine the oil gauge does not move. I don't know if it supposed to when you crank it or not. I thought on other 7.3's I've worked on that the gauge builds up pressure....
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2005 5.4L She would have a hard time starting before but after I replaced and fixed everything below she was running really good. Now back to sputtering, taking a long time to start and now not starting at all.
I have replaced; Fuel Pump, Fuel Filter, FPDM, Plugs and COP's, FRP Sensor, followed the power wire from the FDPM and found it corroded bad so I replaced it, also changed the ground location on the FDPM, I have checked all the wires from the FDPM to the drivers seat, checked all fuses.
I have power to FPDM and I have the diagram for the plug but how can I test (hotwire) the Fuel Pump without lowering the fuel tank? What should be the voltage coming from the FPDM plug? not sure about pin 1 & 6.
How can I test the FRP sensor? what are the specs for voltage?
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My 2004 toyota rav4, manual transmission, 70,000 miles has been problem free. Now when i turn the key , nothing, no sound , dead. sometimes the 2nd or 3rd try 'it'll start right up, and run like nothing's wrong. other times will not start at all. 2 hrs later , try it and starts right up,. the battery has been replaced and it changed nothing. The mechanics are stumped and say they can't do anything till the problem repeats itself, and it starts fine, at their garage. I've been stranded and don't want that to happen again. What's wrong? The clutch switch?
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2004 Lexus GX470, for the last month experienced intermittent starting problems. Turn the key, one slight click first try,nothing after. Disconnect battery cable and reconnect, starts every time.
Then while driving a week ago the vehicle died, all electrical seemed fine, more like fuel cutoff. Now every attempt to start is the same sequence of events, first try one click. Second car turns over and won't start or if it does runs rough for a few minutes and dies.
Third try, the starter won't disengage until key is turned to off position.
Possibly the ECM? Immobilizer? It's obviously not a starter problem as disconnecting the battery caused it to start and now when it does start it runs rough and then dies.
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I have just joined, and posted as below, not sure where it went though so here it is again. As I suspect with many others newbies I am posting to try and solve a problem. I have a 2005 Hyundai Accent diesel (with only 54000 on the clock) which worked OK for over a year. I now has an intermittent starting fault. It played up in the winter, fiddled with the fuel filter and was OK for months, also had it serviced beginning of year. It then played up again a few times recently so had the fuel filter changed. Now worse than ever! This model does not have glow plugs, apparently a fuel heater. If starts 1st time works perfectly. Otherwise it can take up to 10 times to start. Seems no particular circumstances. Usually starts from cold but I do a lot of stop start driving. Took back to local garage and they couldn't get it not to start! Started ok 3 times this morning only to stop on the 4th. I fiddle with the fuel filter and connections and it goes, but this could be pure co-incidence?
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I am working on a 1995 S10 Blazer. it has a 4.3l vortex. The vehicle runs good. The problem is when it is shut off at end of day. Then the next morning it will not start. Then at a different time in the same morning it will start and run all day. I have fiddled with it when it will not start. It acts like it wants to fire but will not start. If I am persistent with it and crank and pump the hell out of it eventually it will start. I have checked the fuel pressure when it will not start and it is good. There is also spark. I don't know what to check next. I has been cold when it does this. What to look at?
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