LS / MKZ :: Advance Trac Control Light Intermittent And Big Thunk Sound In Rear End
Dec 14, 2012
I own a 2005 Lincoln LS V8 with 111,000 miles on it.
Recently the Advance Trac-traction control light will come on for no reason. When I push the console button-to disengage the Advance trac-nothing happens.
However, if I shut the car off, and restart it, the light goes out. Most often the light will stay out for a few days. Once in a while it will light up in a mile or so. Again, this is intermittent.
I did hear a big thunking sound from the rear end the other evening upon a hard acceleration. I do not know if this is related.
Both the loud thunk-almost like someone has hit the back of the car- and the advance trac light have occurred before; never together though. What may be causing the advance trac light to act this way? And what the thunk is from? !!
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My 2005 Lincoln LS V8 has 126,000 miles on it. The advance trac light (the little car with the skid marks trailing it) has been on and off intermittently for the past 15,000 miles.
Today, the light began flashing constantly after my mechanic plugged the code machine into the car to diagnose the Check Advance Trac message. From this, I know that I need a $900 sensor or module for the permanent repair. The "Check Advance Trac" message still is intermittent, but the little car is flashing now constantly.
Is there a way to have the light stop flashing and return to being on intermittently or on solidly all the time-without replacing the unit? Did the mechanic do something or not reset something correctly?
Also, can a used unit be used to replace mine? My goal is to get another 14 months and 30,000 miles out of my car so I can replace it with a CPO 2013 MKZ.
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I have a 2011 Fx4 super crew and my advance trac warning light comes on and off periodically while driving, I have taken my truck to the dealership about 6 times to have the problem fixed. For some reason they can't fix it, I have tried everything I can to get it fixed but still having the issue.
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My F250 is displaying error messages for the hill descent/advance trac yet again. My truck was in the shop over 7 times about 6 months ago when my instrument cluster would go crazy. Every warning possible on the display, and once you killed the engine it wouldn't start until the dealer cleared the codes...once they flew in an engineer he fixed it within a couple hour timeframe, and I thought that nightmare was over.
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My 06 Sonata LX 3.3 has me smiling except for two items, MPG, which I hope will improve after break-in, and a "k-thump" sound from the area of both rear tires. It occurs as I pass over fairly small bumps and ridges in the pavement, and remind me of the sound that is made by a bad shock. I took it to the dealer at 900 miles. They drove it and inspected the rear end and proclaimed all was OK. They claim it is caused by the low profile tires. I have never had low profile tires before, but it seems to me if that were the cause, the front tires would make the same sound, but they don't. The front end is sooo quiet. All tires have the recommended 30 PSI.
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So I know the 2013 GS (or many GS in general) have had complaints of squeaks and rattles. My GS has a couple but are very minor and only occasional.
I do have one noise that seems unusual though. When I am driving and drive over moderate bumps in the road, I hear a muffled clunk or thunk type of noise only from the rear passenger area and never anywhere else.
My car is a stock CPO 2013 F sport and not lowered or anything. Stock rims and tires. The shock does not seem to be leaking.
The noise happens regardless of if I am in regular or sport+ modes. Was going to mention it to the dealer at my next oil change and door trim replacement appointment I need to make Ina couple months.
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My completely un-modified fully-loaded V6 Camry SE is currently in the shop getting the brake actuator assembly changed after almost a YEAR of these lights randomly coming on. There was no rhyme or reason. I'm a tad OCD so if there was a pattern,I'd have found it. Never came on to where they could test it. Said they could do nothing until they saw them. I took photos, but they acted like they'd never seen it before. Finally, as I was just ready to pass the dealership, they came on. I pulled in and they checked and said the lights came on right when I "was going 4mph, on an angled curve with my foot on the brake!"
And after an hour and a half said I needed to leave the car, gave me a warranty rental, and said they'd call me. I called them to learn it was the actuator assembly that was going to be replaced and one would be overnighted in. So I have a 4-cyl rental without all of my perks, like the moonroof, the heated seats, the automatic rear view mirror, back up camera.....what a difference! I'm spoiled after 19 months of my Camry! Oh, and when I first got it, there was a bad musty odor from the a/c vents every time I turned it on. I bought it with 55 miles on it...they said "all Toyotas do that."
I said this is my 3rd Toyota in a row, and I ah do one in the past. Oh, "brand new Toyotas," they said. My corolla was 6months old when I bought it. After 2 years, I traded it in for a brand new FJ Cruiser, then traded that in 6 years later for this brand new Camry. Nothing! Finally, I get a notice in the mail from Toyota re: a/c condenser pan overfills, not draining, and can cause airbag problem! was that stench water in the pan, seeping in through the vents smelling like a dirty rag not enough of an explanation that something was wrong. We had to wait until it could have been an airbag issue? Yikes! Happy that took care of the problem and my new car smell was back in no time. How it goes with the lights!
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There is an intermittent “Thunk Ah” noise coming from what appears to be the front passenger side of my ’97 CRV. Occurs while driving slow or fast, on turns or while driving straight. No vibrations felt, no shaking or movement of steering wheel, CRV drives straight even when hands are off steering wheel. Noise can happen on smooth or bumpy road but bumps will not always create the noise. When CRV was on the lift the mechanic found problems with right strut and left tie rod end – both front struts were replaced along with the left tie rod end and then an alignment was done.
After this CRV continues to make the noise. I always back into my driveway, which is on a slight incline, and park level in my carport with the wheels turned to the left. Twice, within the last week, I parked with the wheels turned to the right. I found that when I parked this way with the wheels turned to the right, I couldn’t get the CRV to produce the “Thunk Ah” noise until later in the day after driving and then parking at work. Mechanics are stumped and don’t know what else to explore.
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2001 Alero ... I've read about the sensors and wiring on the hub causing the ABS and Trac lights. They come on with the Service Vehicle Soon light, sometimes, when I start rolling.
I had a mechanic look at it, and it was not giving any codes. He tried to turn off the lights with the machine, and they would not turn off. He concluded that it was a computer problem. He said that a ground causes the lights to come on, so it could be a wiring problem.
Why would my lights come on intermittently? Do I have to wait until they come on, then immediately pull over and check the sensor or hub? Is there any way to check this on my schedule?
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For several months now, my 2007 Prius has been making an intermittent buzzing sound from the engine bay. When I first heard it, I thought I had hit the little lines they cut into the road to let you know you've drifted over the center line - the sound is like that, a low-pitched buzzing noise. Today, the check engine light came on as it was making that noise. I put a code reader on the car and got P1121, a bad coolant flow control valve. Wondering if the sound and the faulty control valve are just coincidental or if the valve might make that noise when it fails? And if not the valve, what the sound might be?
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Actually I know how Control Trac works in theory, but I mean in the real world. For example, when going through emissions we put it on the standard, rear wheel only rollers. If I understand it correctly, both driveshafts are always turning and if the system detects the back driveshaft going faster than the front it interprets this is as a loss of traction and can route up to 100%of the power to the front wheels. So how, when it was in auto 4X4 mode, was it able to go on the rear wheel only rollers? I am (assuming) that both driveshafts were turning at the same speed so the system didn't send any power to the front wheels. I know the 4X4 high and low work fine.
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I have FK Highsport coilover and have had them installed for a little under a year. After about 6 months I started hearing this thunk sound coming from the front right suspension. The sound only happens when I turn right, and when I turn from right to straight. I haven't had the time to pull it apart yet. I was thinking that it might be a binding spring.
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I recently got an MK7, coming from a MK5, and I installed the VWR springs 8 days ago. Since then I've noticed an intermittent clunking sound coming from the rear suspension. I installed springs on my MKV without any issues and again on several other cars, soIi'm familiar with the process. Everything was torqued to spec after the install.
My best description of the sound would be a clunk, not any rattling, clicking, or squealing. The sound is greater in the passenger side rear than the drivers side rear. No issues with anything up front. Sometimes it occurs when I'm turning the steering wheel while backing out of parking spots and driving slowly, other times when I hit bumps in the road, but it is not constant nor does it seem dependent on the size of the bump/pot holes in the road.
What may be causing this? My plan was to give it a week for everything to settle before I tore everything apart to look for any culprit.
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2003 Mazda protege with 105,000 miles. Have had an intermittent clunking sound from rear for years. Mechanic says rear sway bar is bent. Already replaced bushings because they were bad. Do I need to spend $289 plus labor to replace the sway bar?
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Alright so my 06 is at about 102,xxx right now and has given me no major issues (knock on wood) besides this stupid noise that I cant pin point to fix. So far I've narrowed it down to this, sounds like its coming from the right rear and usually only happens when I am slowing down and or braking. Ive also taken note that it only happens when its really hot outside , all signs have been pointing to the rotors and brakes but i need some thoughts/opinions on what else it could be before i shell out almost $200 to get my brakes fixed. Here are some more details about the car
Rear pads replaced sometime last year they still have meat on them but i did not replace rotors nor did i get them turned.
I am sure that the noise is coming from the rear, ive been half way in the trunk while my buddy drove and i hear it coming from right rear.
Shocks have been replaced (noise was occurring before replacing them)
Nothing seems loose everything seems to be tightened down right.
Tires are brand new (noise was there before getting tires and after)
Mufflers are secured normal wiggle mounts look good.
Emergency Shoes have never been replaced but look ok.
Wheel hub looked great when i took it apart (Looks new doubt its that)
It happens when I am braking from 35mph below or sometimes 0 to 35 40mph rolling no braking then it goes away.
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So on the 16th I had my Koni FSD kit installed with a set of Driver Gear springs (30mm drop) and used the ECS Tuning install kit for both front and rear.
The issue I'm trying to troubleshoot is a 'thunk' noise coming from the rear but only when going over speed bumps or any other major bumps/dips.
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Sometimes it happens at slow speeds too but it's so random that I know it will never do it at the dealer. I can't say "When I take off fast or stop hard it makes a weird sound" it's a lease and they will probably blame me for whatever is wrong. Sometimes the tranny doesn't feel right either. I had a Jeep Grand Cherokee LTD that made a similar sound and it was bushings but this car has only 4,000 miles on it. What should I do?
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My driver' side window had been making a thunk sound when first lowered from the full closed position for the last 6 months. I opened the door and couldn't see anything wrong. Now it won't go down at all, although I can hear it seem to try when I push the button. The motor is likely shot or some sort of other problem? It is a 20 yr old car and starting to drink oil, so I want to try to fix if possible cheaply.
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I am in the process of tracking down a very intermittent "tick" sound coming from the rear driver side door area. How to remove the door panel.
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After driving in the rain and starting the car again after a few hours (as in starting the car again after work, or starting it first thing in the morning) the following happens: As soon as I release my foot from the brake pedal to go into "drive," there is a "thunk" sound from the rear of the car as well as a lurch. A soft "thunk" may have a soft 'thunk" sound, but a louder thunk will have a pronounced lurch/jerkiness from the rear. The car drives OK and has no problem with braking when I apply the brakes.
It happens only after driving in the rain. The dealer says the sound and movement are the normal result with disc brakes wearing off the rust on the rotors. Other wet weather concern (happened once): while driving in a couple inches of snow, the brakes began to grind and eventually failed to bring the car to a stop. Dealer rotated the rear rotors (due to uneven wear, although I had the car only two weeks at the time) and installed new rear brake pads. He said grinding brakes on an Elantra are normal in rainy, snowy, and dusty conditions. Is my car really safe to drive? Is there a problem? I'm considering trading it it as I don't feel safe. It is an otherwise OK car.
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The Truck: 2011, 250, 4x4, Super Cab, 6' box, 6.2 with 6R140, currently 40K miles. It did have an 8' plow on it. An 80 year old gent plowed his personal 200' driveway with it for 2 winters before I bought it. You can tell the truck was taken care of, or I wouldn't have purchased it. I have all the service records. He had his local dealer do all of it. Plow and all the controls were removed prior to my purchase.
Scenario: Trucks cold (summer ambient). Driveway has a grade down to road. Doesn't matter if I am nosed or backed in. Start up, back/pull out of driveway on to flat road, and very slowly take off. The 1-2 shift produces a lose thunk sound and sensation, very faint not loud. Almost Like a lose motor mount. Only will do it once, only on the first start and 1-2 upshift. Ive tried to reproduce it after the first occurrence, no luck. If you gas it under the same circumstances it wont do it.
It doesn't necessarily feel like an internal trans problem. More of a "somethings just lose enough to shift or move" problem. Sounds like somethings hitting the frame, core support, cab floor on this slow 1-2 up-shift. Its upfront passenger side. I've spent several hours under it looking for lose items witness rub marks etc...to no avail
Again it only does it after it sits or upon the first start in the AM or when leaving work PM. Not when its warm.
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