My wife called and said her ES350 couldn't start. I told her to wait 5 minutes and tried again. It still wouldn't start.
So I went there and tried to start the car. My first try did not work either. I noticed that the brake pedal couldn't be pressed down. It was quite stiff. So I pressed hard on the brake pedal and tried again. This time it started. It has been working fine since then.
Requiring that the brake pedal be depressed in order to start the engine can be a nuisance, say if the driver is out of the vehicle and the passenger wants to start the engine to run the A/C, etc.
There is a workaround though. Press the engine start switch once to go into ACC mode, then press and hold it for 15 seconds and the engine will start without the brake pedal having to be pressed.
To all 2014 and 2015 GX 460 owners, does brake pedal have a slight modulation or vibration while press it. Feels like ABS but not as strong pumping action.
When I step on the brakes the first time feels normal and then I let go of the brakes, then I press it the second time that is when I feel a slight modulation or vibration of the brake pedal.
Tried to start my 2007 es350 this morning. While I was attempting to start I was also adjusting my seat backwards and the car failed to start. The gas pedal is stiff and so is the steering wheel. The Start button turns orange when I try to start , if I really press down hard on the brakes the start button turns green but when i press it there is a flickering noise but she doesn't start. What could it be ....battery is about 9 months old?
View 2 RepliesMy wife's 2010 ES 350 third brake light has an intermittent LED issue. The last 3 LEDs on the pass side flash on/off when the brake is depressed. My understanding is there may be a broken solder joint. My problem is I can't seem to get the assembly out. How the high mount assembly is mounted and how to remove it?
View 2 RepliesQuestion about my mom's 2010 ES350.
This morning, it wouldn't start. She tried it a second time, and it started. But...
Upon every subsequent start-up, the LCD in the gauges displays "CHECK COMPLETED".
Car runs and drives fine, otherwise. The security light does go off like it should.
I have 2013 Elantra ( 20,000 miles) and when I put the brake lights on without the headlights on everything works ok but when the headlights are on the driver's side brake light does not come on when the brake pedal is pressed. I thought it was a bulb problem so I replaced it but I am still having the same issue. What is going on? I know it is still under warranty but I figured I could handle a burnt bulb issue but that was not it. I noticed that the drivers side bulb is not as bright either when brake is pressed without headlights
View 11 RepliesSometimes my 96 Subaru Legacy will not turnover unless the brake pedal is pressed. Other times starts without my foot on the pedal. It seems to need the brake pedal addition more often if it has sat a couple hours or more without being started.
View 5 RepliesWe have a new 2015 Prius with 6k on it and we are noticing one solid brief single click when the brake pedal is pressed and/or released. It doesn't happen every time (just some of the time) but it is only noticeable at slow speeds.
View 19 RepliesWhen lock button on the remote is pressed twice and held for 3rd time , lights flash but car won't start. I just put fresh battery in remote Haven't used remote start since last winter..
View 1 RepliesYesterday my 2008 ES350 would not start. Called AAA out. I believe they tested the starter and the alternator and found both good and suggested charging the battery. We assumed we left some device on and that ran the battery down although we could not think of what it was.
So I charged the battery on maintenance free setting long enough that the needle quit moving towards zero and just quivered (about 4 hours). Removed charger and started engine with no problem. Took it to neighborhood parts store and had battery tested. Tested good.
Wife ran her errands in it, came home, garaged and figured she must have left some electric device on the previous night. This morning engine would not crank, same as before.
Ok, did an intake manifold cleaning on my 99 Accord the other day, and now I have problems...
Long story short, some time ago my car started to have a very rough idle. Took me awhile to find the problem. Turned out the air hose, between the filter and throttle body, had developed a big hole on the underside. So I replaced it and while I was at it used some throttle body cleaner, spraying into the intake manifold chamber. Lot of junk blew out the tailpipe. The car ran much better, but the idle could still be a little rough. I ran it that way for awhile, and finally the other day decided there was probably still some junk in there and it was time to really clean it out. So I took ff the throttle body and intake manifold housing. There was a lot of junk in there! The small intake on the passenger side was completely clogged shut. (I understand this isn't surprising on these cars.) I used a bunch of rags and 2 cans of Valvoline throttle body cleaner and a lot of elbow grease and cleaned it out. I was thinking to myself that whatever I didn't get with the rags flushed through OK, but I didn't want to take the whole intake manifold out.
So I put it all back together. (I took a video before I started, so I'm pretty sure it's all back together right.) But now I have problems. The car starts. It idles fine mostly, but can be a bit rough. But the trouble starts when I put the pedal down. If I do it in Park, well, if I push it quick the engine just dies. If I push it slow, the engine revs then quits, revs and quits, over and over. Similar if it's in gear. If I push it hard, the engine stalls. If I push it gentle, it revs up, but chugs along a bit.
I've run some seafoam through it, thinking it was clogged up with all that junk, and sure enough, lots of smoke comes out, but nothing is improving so far. What have I done wrong?
So I have a 2008 ES 350 with 53,000 miles on it. In December of 2015, It was starting fine, then it sat for about two weeks without me driving it. When I went to start it, it had to be jumped. It took longer and longer to start (more cranks) until I took it in. Also there was a delay between hitting the lock button on the handle and the car actually locking. The battery was still the original one, and the dealer tested it and it was in fact in need of replacement.
Now here's where things get weird: I replaced the battery with a brand new Interstate 24f 700 CCA battery from Costco. The car starts now, but it is kind of slow (about 4-5 cranks) to start. Also, the car starts faster (two or one crank(s)) if I first put it into accessory mode then start it.
2010 ES350... Was detailing interior of car, and didn't realize headlights were on. Eventually, battery drained and car would not start. Had OEM, original battery installed at the time. No dashboard lights lit prior to this.
From what I recall, shortly after replacing the battery and getting vehicle started, my slip indicator was solidly lit on dashboard. No other lights are illuminated, and vehicle appears to behave the same.
Fast forward to today, my OBD II scanner (Innova) does not pick up any current DTC's. There are readiness codes stored, but I understand that these are merely emmission related. However, there are historical codes stored which I am concerned may be possibly contributing to the dashboard light. The codes are P1604 and B2799. These appear to be related to the immobilizer system on my ES. I've tried to clear these codes, but they won't go away, so I suspect something is still tripping this. Keys are fine, just changed the FOB battery out a couple of times. I may try my second set of keys to see if it fixes this mess.
Since my OBD scanner doesn't support ABS, I'd like to see if AutoZone or something of the like can detect if there are any codes being thrown by the ABS system. Not sure if this is what is tripping the SLIP light.
I finally traded in my car and picked up a black 2010 ES 350, CPO, with 33k miles. However, i feel a vibration inside the vehicle while the car is idling (even when it is fully warmed up) and i was wondering if this is normal on these models? I have owned a is250, and ls460 and I didn't really notice anything like it. It almost feels like my ex's toyota camry when idling (not as loud of course). Is there a recall that fixes it? or is this normal with FWD vehicles?
View 11 RepliesI own a 04 Grand Cherokee and have recently had problems with my passenger side brake light. Now the light itself does work under normal running light conditions, but when I go to press the brake pedal it doesn't engage the bright brake light. Drivers side works fine and so do all my other lights, I replaced the bulb to no avail, and am now currently looking into replacing the bulb socket.
View 1 RepliesI was told that with remote start I would be able to start the car but when I open the door it would shut off and then it would push start. I have a 2011 ES 350. My ls gmc yukon and has no problem but it doesn't have this push button. I want to have a remote installed in my wifes car didn't think it was going to be a problem.
View 14 RepliesI notice a bad smell when I start my 2011 ES350for a short period of time. After that it is fine. Auto has just over 10,000 miles on it. E mail from dealer tells me filter needs changing. Somehow I believe there is more to it.
View 14 RepliesYesterday after coming to a stop and pressing the start/stop button, the vehicle wouldn't turn off. Eventually I got it to turn off (by pressing the button).
After I got it to turn off, I pressed the start button and it does not turn on. I get a message saying "Check VSC" . 1 click from under the hood and that's it. All power is there. Radio/AC/etc all work. Not brand new, but the battery is fully charged.
Trying to diagnose and fix the issue myself before calling for a flatbed to come and pick it up.
I dont think its the starter since I've had issues turning it off. What it might be? Its an '07 with 65k miles.
I was wondering if this problem is the "Barking" noise that keeps coming up the search or is it another problem. I will include a link to the video down below.
To start off, the Prius is 2010 Prius II and has 120k miles on it. Great Car. Only other problem was AC compressor dying at 90k.
The chirping noise happens when the brake pedal is pressed and does not go away until the release the pedal. It makes the noise regardless of whether the car is on or off.
It makes the noise when the car is stopped and or when the mechanical brake engage at between 0 and 6 mph.
Noise does not occur when the brake switch is removed. Not valid solution since the brake lights will stay on. It does not affect the performance of braking.
Here is the link to the video .... .... ....
Today I faced another problem i just try to start my car but, due the dead 12v battery it didn't start so i pressed the BRAKE PEDAL until it reach the bottom, again i tried to press but its not going to the bottom why was that, is it due to dead battery? And last time i called an automobile expertise to jump start my car. They check the voltage with a digital multi-meter and he said me if you jump start even you will get this problem again until u replace the new battery. but i said him it doesn't matter do a jump start and finally it was ok . Now again I faced the same problem and this time i am going to change the battery.
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