Lexus ES 2007-12 :: Disable Automatic Door Locking / Unlocking
Mar 6, 2007
I'm slowly reading through the ES-350 manual, picking and choosing parts to read. There are several 'Personalized Preferences' that I've noted down and will have addressed at my 1st month service.
I noticed on pg. 21 of the manual that there are settings to set and cancel the door-locking/unlocking functions. These functions are also mentioned in the 'Personalized Preferences' section, so there is overlap here (on paper anyways).
Anyways I tried a couple of times to follow the instructions on pg. 21 to disable the door locking and unlocking when the car is placed in Park and Neutral.
It didn't work for me. The instructions aren't all that clear to me, nor of what they are supposed to accomplish. I'd like to not have the doors lock when I place the shift out of Park and not have the doors unlock when I place the shift into Park.
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Is it possible to disable the automatic door locking when the car reaches speed via VCDS. So the actuators don't wear out so quickly.
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I was told by the Lexus service dept. that they could do it for $30, so I was wondering if there was a way to do it for less money or no money at all. It's for a 2004 RX 330.
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My wife said that her keys stopped locking/unlocking doors. I checked the keys and replaced the battery just to be sure. No change. Older keys also couldn't unlock/lock the car.
Both keys can start the car and has blinking red LED flushing when any buttons pushed. Is there a "Remote" button somewhere in a car to allow remote operation?
2007 RX400h 110k mi.
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I would like to know if there is a way to activate the automatic door locking when leaving the car, my car is oiut of warranty and i remember that i had that option on my car, but for some reason, i doesn't now. I've tried leaving the fob far from the car, but the doors does not locking automatically for any reason.
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My FOB is only unlocking my door. It's not locking doors. Thought it might be the FOB battery. I changed it and still no locking, just unlocking.
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I have a 2005 GLI which seems to have an issue with intermittent door locks. Sometimes when I press the unlock/lock button they will unlock/lock, other times they won't. It also seems to be random as to which doors will unlock/lock. Opening them from inside works just fine.
The dealer said that the door lock control modules probably need to be replaced. I remember seeing a while back that there was a way to fix these as the problem really was some solder within the control module.
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My drivers door won't unlock and lock sometimes. It goes off and on. And it's starting to do it more often. Sometimes the beep won't make a sound too when I lock it. Only locks with manually putting the key in. I've tried to use my other key but it didn't work.
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Renee said her barn door lock stopped locking and unlocking with the key, so I checked the connecting rod from the cylinder to the actuator and found it had broke off the cylinder. I also found a small metal clip of some sort laying loose in the area beneath the actuator.
I checked the 'net and couldn't find any good, close up pics of each end of the rod to see how it's attached. I did find a YouTube vid of the actuator area, but when the goombah in the vid started talking, I thought to myself, that voice sounds familiar! So I scrolled down the page and what do I see? Apocs pic and name, showing it was uploaded by Jon, LOL.
Anyway, can someone remove that back plastic panel on the rear hatch and take a few pictures of the connecting rod and how it connects to the actuator? I know I have to replace the plastic/metal tab that connects the rod to the cylinder, but that opposite end, the actuator end, has me a bit perplexed.
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Well, it seems like it. Bought new, now has under 20k miles. Car starts and runs great to a destination. Stop, shop, start up and drive off. Then, while in traffic, the door locks (4) start locking and unlocking rapidly on their own, then the car will bog down and is unresponsive to the gas pedal. Seconds later, the engine will rev to high rmps momentarily and then lurch forward to a normal speed and it will seem fine for 10 or 20 seconds. Then it repeats the process. It has happened 3 times in the past year. Wife is terrified to drive the car. All three times we took it immediately to the dealer. The second time, it happened there, as they were taking out back. As of this date, the dealer is unable to identify the problem...no codes. It was in for recall in 2014 for the BCM connection repair. It has gotten a new battery 2 yrs ago, and a new key. It has always been dealer serviced. Since it happens in traffic, and my wife is driving we do not know what dash lights indicators pop up, she is trying to keep safe. It's now been in the dealer, this time, for 5 days, nothing!
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My driver door on my 06 F150 crew cab stopped locking/unlocking recently. I purchased a new actuator and installed and it worked great. About a week later it stopped working again. But then in order to unlock the door from outside you had to turn key and pull on handle while the key was still turned. I was about to break open door again when it made a strange electronic type sound when I was leaving for work (when auto lock activated). After that it started working again - for 3-4 days. Now it stopped working again. I can open door fine from inside but lock won't stay unlocked. As soon as I release handle it locks again.
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117,000+ mi. on my '07 Camry LE and it's started locking itself two to three minutes after I've just unlocked it with the keyless remote.
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I got the car running again, so no need to go into details on that (I used the physical key on the keyfob, you really do have to turn it further than you'd think, but that got me into the car, after several tries was able to get it to stop cycling through the locking/unlocking and was able to jump it).
Got the 12v battery in my Prius replaced by the dealership in the last 2 years. Last winter, one day my Prius refused to start even though it had been running fine earlier that day and was parked in a semi-heated garage. Jumped it and got it working.
Last Friday I went to get out of my car and my Prius kept beeping at my any time I had the door open, and the clock on the dash seemed to be a little dim. I doubled checked that the keyfob was in my pocket (and not in the holder thingy), eventually the car seemed to lock fine and I went up to my apartment. Didn't drive the car until this morning.
This morning I come down to find that keyless entry does not work, nor does pressing the unlock button on the keyfob. (The car is parked in heated underground parking fyi.) About every 1 second on repeat, the car is making this sound like it makes when you hit the lock/unlock button from the inside of the car, so it seemed like it was stuck in an endless loop of locking or unlocking. I go back upstairs, leave my key fob in my apartment (which is around 300 meters away or so), come back down - it's still on the loop making that sound.
I get into the car with the physical door key, try starting it - the lights will come on but the car doesn't seem to actually start. And the endless lock/unlock loop starts up against once I turn the car "off". I got upstairs and switch to my other backup keyfob. Come back down. Car is still in the endless loop. Try to start it again, car still doesn't seem to start, but this time when I turn it "off" the endless lock/unlock cycle finally stops. Do finally get it running by jumping the battery, then it seems to run fine.
So I bring it to the dealer, and the guy their rather vehemently insist there must be something wrong with my keyfob. First he immediately confidently assures me that I just need to replace the battery in the keyfob, which makes no sense. Then he changes to saying he thinks the lock button on the keyfob was stuck down, which doesn't make sense either as like I said it continued doing it even when I removed any keyfob from being anywhere near the car.
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I have a 2000 ford windstar LX. When i drive it, the door chime sensor comes on and off randomly and door starts locking unlocking. Happens more often when the road is bumpy or when i brake hard.
Per the local dealer I changed all four door actuators (the front one had stopped working) . All four door actuators are brand new and working but the issue still exists.
What should be my next steps in troubleshooting? Is there a way to simply disconnect these door chime sensor?
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My mom has a 2001 f150 with a 5.0. Had never had any problems with it till this week. She says it wont click or anything. When she tries to start it, the power door locks go to locking & unlocking. She said the battery is good. I figured probably the starter. She lives about 2 1/2 hours from me. I figured I would go down there and take the starter off and have it checked or rebuilt. Anybody ever had their power locks to go to moving when you try to start the truck. Also, when she turns the key on, her dash lights come on just like normal. Just won't turn over or click or anything.
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I'm having a problem with my remote lock/alarm system in my 2010 Corolla LE. The driver door suddenly stopped locking and unlocking with the remote. The other 3 doors work fine, but the driver door won't work. When I lock the driver door with the key and press the lock button, everything locks and unlocks like normal. If I wait awhile and try to unlock the doors again, the driver door lock again won't work.
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Everytime I open the door to get out of my 08 LS460 the warning bell rings incessantly.
The only thing I can think of is that I'm usually in a parking garage and the lights are on due to the auto-feature on the lights. But, I think sometimes it rings even though the lights aren't on.
Sometimes you open the door but don't jump right out of the car. Is there anyway to disable this ringing bell?
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Automatically lock doors 30 seconds after exiting car. I have found a maker of a simple module that can be easily added under the dash with five wires. easy to install and does NOT require integration into the databus (CANbus) system. Installed on 2011 GenIII currently.
The processor looks for the (+) ignition to be turned on, then waits for it to go back off. It then looks at the (-) door pin input and waits for the door to open then close again. At that point, there is an LED output that starts flashing slowly for 20 seconds. During this 20 second period the processor is monitoring both the ignition input and the door pin input - if either of them toggle their state the timer pauses, then starts over once both signals are clear.
After 20 seconds the module outputs a short beep through an external hood mounted beeper and then the LED starts flashing quickly for 10 seconds, while the processor continues to monitor the inputs (and resets to the very beginning if something changes). At the end of this 10 second period the module outputs a (-) door lock signal. Finally, the LED output flashes at a slow rate to simulate an aftermarket security system.
LED and beeper optional when installing.
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I have experienced a problem with the driver's side door locking and not opening. It just happened to me with my 2008 LS460 so I can't get in or out of the car from the driver's side.
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Can I disable unlocking of all the doors when I open the rear hatch from the outside? I figured out that if I use my fob, the doors does not unlock.
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Is there a programming sequence that will keep my 2002 Camry from locking all doors when the vehicle is put in drive/reverse. I realize this is considered a safety feature but I prefer to lock them myself.
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