Lexus GX 2004-09 :: Transmission Started Surging In 3rd Gear
Nov 11, 2014
I just bought my 2007 GX470 last Friday. Last night I drove it home in the season's first snowstorm. I've got plenty of experience with winter driving and Toyotas, so I thought I knew what to expect.
I dropped down to 3rd gear for a long hill and the transmission or engine started surging. It would hold at 1100 rpm, then suddenly jump to 1400rpm when my foot was not even on the gas. Then it would drop back to 1100 again.
The car has 78000 miles on it.
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My girlfriend has a 2008 with around 120k miles on it. It's been pretty flawless but yesterday the RPMs started surging while idle and made kind of a high pitch humming noise when accelerating.
Today on her way to work she said the radio was going in and out, the battery light lit up and then the rest of the dash lights came on, and the speedometer stopped working.
What could be the problem? Could it just be the battery?
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A month ago I had the Lexus dealer do a 50k mile service (although I have 68k). I work from home and rarely go anywhere. The miles are highway miles to North Carolina Mtns. I have a 2007 GX470 that I bought new. Tried going out last night to dinner and the car would not go into gear. The shifter would move freely but would not engage. When I tried putting it back into Park, there was a grinding noise, not bad but it was there. The car is UN-drivable. Before I have it towed to Lexus, is there anything simple I could check? The car drove perfectly the day before.
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I have a 2013 ES350 with 8K miles. Since car has been new, experienced intermittent surging and uneven driving at speeds between 25-40mph. At times the RPM gauge will spike and other times RPM stays stable. It seems like it is searching for the right gear and very noticeable when it does this. I have tried different grades of gas, different driving modes. Nothing works. Problem is inconsistent but persistent.
Also, experiencing cruise control issues going up and down hills where vehicle feels like it trying slow itself down and then shifting hard to maintain speed.
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I have a 2004 RX 330 and the transmission kicked out of 3rd gear going around a turn. It felt like something gave way and broke. Now the transmission only works when the selector is in 1 or 2. It will not shift above 2nd gear reverse works fine. I have not experienced any transmission issues with this vehicle till now. The car has 215k miles so its higher mileage. The transmission doesn't make any strange noises while running in this limp mode. There was no check engine code flashed when the incident happened. I read a couple of message threads and saw some mention of limp home mode from the knock sensor. I think that this should have generated a dash code at least. I tried resetting the any codes that were generated with disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes. This made the problem worse and the car will barely idle now. The resetting of the codes did not fix the shift issue.
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I have 142k miles on my 2005 RX330 AWD. This week I can feel the transmission slip/shudder when shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear.
My local transmission guy is pretty reasonable but like most salesmen he's going to say rebuild it the entire transmission in lou of something less invasive.
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Like the title says, I sometimes experience a long shift from 1st to 2nd. When the transmission is cold, it seems to shift fine from 1st to 2nd. It isn't until it is warmed up that I get a looong shift. It winds up,,,,, then it shifts. I have no problems in other gears.
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My car is 7k short of its drive train warranty expiring. I noticed a rumbling vibration when the transmission shifted between 3-4 gear at approximately 20-25 mph. Took it into the dealer, and their expert rode with me and verified that it indeed was vibrating, but that he had never seen this issue on the 2007 GS350 AWD. He said he would have to check around the country to see if others had this problem. Four days later, he advised me that he was told to flush the transmission 2-3 times and for me to drive it about 1k miles to see if that fixed it. Well, it doesn't do it anymore, but I'm not sure why, or that it won't do it again just after the warranty expires at 70k miles. I certainly don't want to look at a 4-6,000.00 transmission replacement after the warranty expires. The dealer obviously doesn't want to incur the expense either, under warranty. Even though the transmission does not rumble or vibrate anymore, should I ask for the replacement anyway?
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I have a 98 GS4 and a 04 RX330 and one major issue I have with the RX, is the poor downshift response when slowing down, to say 5-10 mph and give it gas, the transmission takes FOREVER to realize I want first gear. If I am giving it 50% throttle at 5-10 mph after slowing and needing to get a move on, the throttle seems like it is there, but the transmission takes an eternity to realize "oh, you want first? hang on while I think about it", then it grabs first and LURCHES forward, giving everyone a very uncomfortable jerk.
My GS however, when down to those speeds is always spot on the right gear. Yeah, I know its comparing a GS to a RX, but wouldn't you think that Lexus would figure that one out?
Is the 04 worse than 05 or 06? Can I use an 05 or 06 trans controller and get some improved transmission response?
You can tell by the lurch, the throttle is responding to the driver's throttle pedal input, but the transmission isn't figuring it out till way too late. I don't get the lurch like at slower speeds and higher throttle input, but it sure makes for a poorly driving car.
I see the same problem when taking slower corners, get it down to 10-20 mph for a corner and the transmission won't downshift till AFTER the apex of the corner, despite what throttle pedal is pressed.
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I have a 2000 Lexus RX300 with 210,000 miles on it. We recently started to have some transmission issues. It sporadically drops into 1st gear while driving. We had the transmission fluid changed, and it did work for a short time, but it has recently started again. Is my transmission going to completely fail or is this something that is serviceable? We are trying to decide whether it's worth it to keep the car and fix it and drive it for another 100,000 miles or sell it. It looks great and drives great, otherwise.
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I have a 1999 Passat Sedan, V6 with automatic transmission, 62K miles. The Transmission has started slipping from 1st > 2nd, particularly up hills. Took it to my local mechanic who referred me to the AAMCO next door. They changed out the fluid and filter. No luck; still slipping. They want to do a transmission repair (soft parts) for $1650 with a 12-month warranty. For what it's worth, the TCU was replaced last spring (sunroof drain clog > flood > destroyed TCU and a lot more). Everything was working OK this spring after the repairs.
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My transmission has started slipping as car shifts into 2 and sometimes 3rd gear. It races and is not engaged, so there is no power for the few seconds (sometimes longer) when this happens. Car has about 216,000 miles - and it's time to also replace tires. As I look at the estimated bill, I'm having to decide if it's still a good investment to do the work on the car. I love the car and there is no rust or other problems.
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I recently had the transmission fluid changed in my 2009 Sonata NF 4 cyl. Current mileage is 60,000 miles. Directly afterwards, the transmission started "sliding" into 4th gear from 3rd gear. I assume that fluid contamination has caused a clog somewhere in the transmission. I have had the tsb done on the car for the transmission and the fluid had been exchanged @ 30,000 miles prior to this service.
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I have a 99 Grand Am GT 3400. Just starting doing this, when you start the engine, it starts surging rhythmically as if you are pushing on the accelerator and letting off. When I put it in gear, I have to have the brake firmly pushed down as it lurches forward severely. I haven't driven it far, but it seems once you get going it runs fine.
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Just put the 6.0 back in the truck, engine working good now. Went to take it for a test drive and the transmission will not engage in any gear. I don't have any codes coming up on my scanner. Can not figure out why the transmission is not working from engine R&R.
- Fluid level is good
- Swapped wiring harness from my other truck and still nothing
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My son changed the oil in our 97 Lexus. (It has about 185K miles) The transmission started slipping same day.
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Today after driving my roadtrip to work my car started surging! It happened leaving the light after i had gotten of the exit! Around 5500-6000 rpms and the engine light came on and started flashing. This went on for about 10 sec then the engine light went off and no more surging. Car had a half tank of gas also. Just a note i also have EVOMS intake.
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2002 santafe 4x4 v6. about week earlier I had a cel for temp sensor voltage high. so I replaced it. then... my power steering cooling loop by radiator started to leak from corrosion and for some reason my coolant gauge was reading about a needle with from the red. (maybe from getting ps fluid on it? idk) so I went to investigate why it was leaking and I thought the cooling loop pluged into a cooler on radiator so I removed my lower front engine mound and motor mount by the timing belt so I could raise engine up a2" to get a better look. when I saw it was just a loop and that was my leak I ordered replacement. It came in I swapped it out. Pretty easy . Decided to do a radiator flush and replace thermostat. Why I was at it. I drained radiator and took the old thermostat out. was gonna leave it out for the flush to cycle better. When I started it up it was idling around 4k rpms. I figured it might be because of thermostat so I put the new one in.
Started it up and same thing.... I check all the vac lines I could find all were tight. I unplugged them one at a time at throttle body/intake tube and blocked it off with my finger and it was still idling high. It also started surging. going from 2k to 4k and going back and forth. I checked the maf and it was clean as a whistle. No leaks on intake pipe. If I put my hand over maf it sucks the tube towards the throttle body. no air leaks anywhere. Took off iac valve its clean. I plugged the holes where it is on tb and started it up and no change in what its doing. also the throttle body flap is closed the hole time. Iac seems to be properly opening and closing. when I watched it after I unbolted it. I sprayed brake cleaner all over manifold to check for air leaks no change in high idle. I also took off the evap valve hose to tb and plugged it at tbody and no success.
I checked my sensor connectors and there tight and no wires are pulled out. I have yet to check cam sensor connection. (does it have a cam sensor?) I unplugged battery over night. this morning it ran at 2k rpm for two mins then surged to 4k. could it be my throttle position sensor? is there a way I can check with multi meter? Ive done a lot of research and it seems like a common problem with Hyundai but people don't leave a what fixed it post after they figure it out. they just leave the threads hanging. I hope I can figure this out.
When I get home tonight Ill plug where the brake booster vac line goes in. I looked at the hose and it was super tight and didn't seem to be leaking but maybe booster is idk. Ill also check wires to all 02 sensors. but if o2 sensor wire was broke wouldn't it throw a cel? Also no check engine light. but id did have an abs light come on the other day. was thinking maybe an abs sensor at the wheel but I am not sure. That light was on for a week before this issue started. It was never revving up until I started working on the other issues from my research I am guessing throttle position sensor. I am going to multimeter it tonight.
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One evening, I started my car but it shut off right after 2 3 seconds, then check engine light and battery light came ON.
Started again, it ran like normal with check engine light ON. After 2 3 miles, car started chugging & surging before the engine shut off completely. Started again, it ran just fine.
Next day, I took my car to the shop. They found out that P0351, 0352, 0353, 0355, 0356 codes. Then, they replaced 5 ignition coils for $600. But the problem was still there.
I took my car to the shop again, they replaced 2 variable timing valves. Cost $400. Unfortunately, it would not solve the problem. Third solution, they replaced my timing belt. Problem remained unsolved.
However, the check engine light turned itself off when my car ran fine. It turned back on again when my car started chugging & surging and stopped. It has been happening for 1 month. 2 3 times a day, especially in the early morning when the weather is cold and the evening.
At noon, my car just runs fine without any problems, even the check engine light turned itself OFF.
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Last night pulled in at rest stop and truck started surging then stalled put dieselkleen in and topped off tank but no luck eventually would not run at all. Had it towed to ford and this morning started right up running fine. Having them change fuel filters. Not sure what to do got to get back to drive?
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Just bought a 2006 F250 with 6.0. A week or so ago, it surged once at idle at a light. Sort of felt like someone bumped into your rear. It has gotten more frequent over the last week or so. Now it does it often. It tends to rev up and then back down again over and over. Then it will clear up again. My brother said his 7.3 used to have a similar problem (as did quite a few others apprently) and it was the Cam positioning sensor (CPS). Where is it located?
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