I have a 99 Grand Am GT 3400. Just starting doing this, when you start the engine, it starts surging rhythmically as if you are pushing on the accelerator and letting off. When I put it in gear, I have to have the brake firmly pushed down as it lurches forward severely. I haven't driven it far, but it seems once you get going it runs fine.
View 3 RepliesDrove 28mi out to dinner and when leaving after, she wouldn't start. Took it to work in the morning, and it ran fine prior to that. It was 15degrees outside, added heat to the gastank thinking the fuel line was frozen. Tryed to fire on, but it would only idle briefly surging while doing so and die, like not enough gas. It did start after I held the key down during this surging process grinding the starter also, should have driven home, but I shut it off like a idiot, as a result, had to tow home. Noticed TCS OFF light was lite up while it was running, then I shut it off, TCS OFF LIGHT went away when I turned key back on to attempt a 2nd restart. After i did that, it wouldn't fire on again. Towed to my house, I do not hear the fuel pump trying to kick on when i turn on the key. Fuel system is dry. Cranked over next day and definitely no gas in the lines. Bled the fuel system, no fuel shot out. Have checked the fuse box and the one under the hood too. Replaced the fuel pump relay but still no go just (this blows)...
View 7 RepliesToday after driving my roadtrip to work my car started surging! It happened leaving the light after i had gotten of the exit! Around 5500-6000 rpms and the engine light came on and started flashing. This went on for about 10 sec then the engine light went off and no more surging. Car had a half tank of gas also. Just a note i also have EVOMS intake.
View 8 RepliesOne evening, I started my car but it shut off right after 2 3 seconds, then check engine light and battery light came ON.
Started again, it ran like normal with check engine light ON. After 2 3 miles, car started chugging & surging before the engine shut off completely. Started again, it ran just fine.
Next day, I took my car to the shop. They found out that P0351, 0352, 0353, 0355, 0356 codes. Then, they replaced 5 ignition coils for $600. But the problem was still there.
I took my car to the shop again, they replaced 2 variable timing valves. Cost $400. Unfortunately, it would not solve the problem. Third solution, they replaced my timing belt. Problem remained unsolved.
However, the check engine light turned itself off when my car ran fine. It turned back on again when my car started chugging & surging and stopped. It has been happening for 1 month. 2 3 times a day, especially in the early morning when the weather is cold and the evening.
At noon, my car just runs fine without any problems, even the check engine light turned itself OFF.
99 grand am,v-6 SE-2.my car has recently started to stall at times. Mostly in the afternoon when it is hotter. Runs for about 20 min. and then looses power and stalls. Will not restart unless I turn the key off and back on. Sometimes I have to do this about 10 times before it stays running. Each time I turn it back on the fuel pump pumps up within seconds. Stalls at idle and at part throttle. When it starts to stall you can here it sucking air big time. When it runs it runs great.there are no codes. Once it starts to stall it never recovers, just takes longer sometimes.
View 4 RepliesA few weeks ago I got in my 2005 EX and started for work. As I idled in traffic, the engine started surging (it had never done this before). So I took it right to Ford and dropped it off before it got worse. Of course, they couldnt look at it until Monday (this was a Thursday), so I had to get a rental.
I get the call on Monday that the surging problem was an injector, but covered by my warranty. But, it seems that my EGR cooler was bad, but even more important was my blown head gasket.
WHAT?! My truck did NOT have a blown head gasket when I dropped it off. But thats besides the point. There was much back and forth between Ford and my warranty company, but finally I got them to cover the head gasket.
But, I had to pay for the EGR cooler. So I asked the Ford mechanic if I could supply him with an upgraded cooler, so I wouldn't have this issue in the future. He said no problem. I then told him I was going to buy a Bulletproof and he said no, get a delete kit. He said "I've done a number of these, and its really the best solution.". He even HEAVILY recommended the ADT Delete kit. He even said that since I have a 2005, we can just leave the EGR valve hooked up and I wouldn't have a CEL issue.
Fast forward several days. I picked up my EX last night and... CEL is on. I called and spoke to the mechanic and he told me that I must have an upgraded program, and that my only option is a tuner to turn off the EGR completely. He also told me that I don't need an expensive SCT or Bullydog just for the EGR.
Anyways, with all of the above setting of the stage complete, just wondering what my best option is here... Is there a simple/cheaper tuner I can use to just disable the EGR? Is it worth the money to get a more expensive tuner? For the most part, this is my daily driver and I don't need a performance or towing tune. I wouldn't mind better mileage, though
Recently since the weather has been cold. between 0-30 degrees or so. My 2002 7.3 with 161k on it is smoking a decent amount i think. far more than i ever remember it smoking thats for sure! anyways its a combination of blue and white smoke and it doesnt last long when the truck starts maybe 1 minute and the smoke stops.
But I also notice when i rev the truck maybe around 1200 rpms the engine shakes very bad. so i was thinking maybe a glow plug went bad making the engine seem like its missing. but even when its warm i rev it up to 1200 and i still feel the engine shake slightly. Maybe im just being picky when its warm? I need to test the glow plugs and go from there but i want opinions about that issue. the truck sits for 4 hour periods and every time i start it i have smoke. I will pay attention tomorrow morning if it smokes after being plugged in all night and post my findings.
My other issue and this typically happens when its below 20. sometimes i will go to accelerate after coming to a complete stop and the truck kinda has a very weak rev to it then just takes off like the tps took a break on me. sometimes i have had it jerk the truck when the throttle catches and other times it creeps at first then takes off like a boost of power.
lastly and this little issue happens most noticeable at 35 mph. i feel a surging im thinking this is related to the tps but i put the truck on cruise control and i still feel the surging. maybe this ties into my second issue? bad TC? ive plugged in my scanner and the only thing jumping out at me is the icp hunts about 100 psi or more at idle. i plan on doing a WOT test on the HPOP, ICP and IPR tomorrow and see if maybe this is just a weak hpop causing my issues.
Repairs i have done:
new 8th injector and all new injector seals about 25k miles ago.
new ipr
new icp
have CCV mod done and 4 inch turbo back exhaust
new map sensor
cleaned out the EBP sensor and tube but that was probably 40 or 50k ago now.
gray cps and i cant remember when i put that on.
gutted the EBPV
bellowed up pipes
no tunes the truck is factory as far as that goes.
I just bought my 2007 GX470 last Friday. Last night I drove it home in the season's first snowstorm. I've got plenty of experience with winter driving and Toyotas, so I thought I knew what to expect.
I dropped down to 3rd gear for a long hill and the transmission or engine started surging. It would hold at 1100 rpm, then suddenly jump to 1400rpm when my foot was not even on the gas. Then it would drop back to 1100 again.
The car has 78000 miles on it.
2002 santafe 4x4 v6. about week earlier I had a cel for temp sensor voltage high. so I replaced it. then... my power steering cooling loop by radiator started to leak from corrosion and for some reason my coolant gauge was reading about a needle with from the red. (maybe from getting ps fluid on it? idk) so I went to investigate why it was leaking and I thought the cooling loop pluged into a cooler on radiator so I removed my lower front engine mound and motor mount by the timing belt so I could raise engine up a2" to get a better look. when I saw it was just a loop and that was my leak I ordered replacement. It came in I swapped it out. Pretty easy . Decided to do a radiator flush and replace thermostat. Why I was at it. I drained radiator and took the old thermostat out. was gonna leave it out for the flush to cycle better. When I started it up it was idling around 4k rpms. I figured it might be because of thermostat so I put the new one in.
Started it up and same thing.... I check all the vac lines I could find all were tight. I unplugged them one at a time at throttle body/intake tube and blocked it off with my finger and it was still idling high. It also started surging. going from 2k to 4k and going back and forth. I checked the maf and it was clean as a whistle. No leaks on intake pipe. If I put my hand over maf it sucks the tube towards the throttle body. no air leaks anywhere. Took off iac valve its clean. I plugged the holes where it is on tb and started it up and no change in what its doing. also the throttle body flap is closed the hole time. Iac seems to be properly opening and closing. when I watched it after I unbolted it. I sprayed brake cleaner all over manifold to check for air leaks no change in high idle. I also took off the evap valve hose to tb and plugged it at tbody and no success.
I checked my sensor connectors and there tight and no wires are pulled out. I have yet to check cam sensor connection. (does it have a cam sensor?) I unplugged battery over night. this morning it ran at 2k rpm for two mins then surged to 4k. could it be my throttle position sensor? is there a way I can check with multi meter? Ive done a lot of research and it seems like a common problem with Hyundai but people don't leave a what fixed it post after they figure it out. they just leave the threads hanging. I hope I can figure this out.
When I get home tonight Ill plug where the brake booster vac line goes in. I looked at the hose and it was super tight and didn't seem to be leaking but maybe booster is idk. Ill also check wires to all 02 sensors. but if o2 sensor wire was broke wouldn't it throw a cel? Also no check engine light. but id did have an abs light come on the other day. was thinking maybe an abs sensor at the wheel but I am not sure. That light was on for a week before this issue started. It was never revving up until I started working on the other issues from my research I am guessing throttle position sensor. I am going to multimeter it tonight.
1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0. Check engine light will not go out. Took to Autozone , Orileys ,and Jeep Dealer. No codes found. Replaced cooling fan relay, when light first came on. Everything works fine now. Have tried myself to shut light off, disconnect batt. cables 10 min, 30 min. and other methods, no luck , still, on ? I have even traced the cooling fan relay wire to PCM, all OK.
View 3 RepliesLast night pulled in at rest stop and truck started surging then stalled put dieselkleen in and topped off tank but no luck eventually would not run at all. Had it towed to ford and this morning started right up running fine. Having them change fuel filters. Not sure what to do got to get back to drive?
View 11 RepliesMy wifes car AC just started blowing warm. I figured it was getting a little low on refrigerant. So I went and bought a can with the gauge on top, and I connected it and it was reading half way into the red zone....way overcharged. But nobody has put any in the system since we bought the car over a year ago. The AC has been great for all this time. So how can it be blowing warm and be overcharged that much without overheating the cars engine ? The clutch is coming on with the compressor?
View 4 RepliesJust bought a 2006 F250 with 6.0. A week or so ago, it surged once at idle at a light. Sort of felt like someone bumped into your rear. It has gotten more frequent over the last week or so. Now it does it often. It tends to rev up and then back down again over and over. Then it will clear up again. My brother said his 7.3 used to have a similar problem (as did quite a few others apprently) and it was the Cam positioning sensor (CPS). Where is it located?
View 14 RepliesI have a 98 Grand am with the 2.5 and recently noticed first that the a/c compressor wasn't coming on. It had freon added recently and did okay for a few days,then no compressor coming on again. (It still has freon) Then I noticed that the engine cooling fan was running as long as the engine is running on cold or hot engine with heat controls off (I know the compressor runs when on on defrost position as well as a/c). I thought the 2 problems may be related? I found 5 relays at R/F strut tower and the 3rd relay cut off the fan,so I swapped some of the relays, but made no difference.The fan only quits when I turn the engine off, and I can't get the a/c compressor to come. I don't if I have 2 seperate problems or not. Could it be the PCM?
View 1 RepliesI just purchased a 99 GA SE, 130K, 3.4L and when we test drove it the horn did not work. Salesman said previous owner disconnected it because it "had a mind of its own". Dealer reconnected horn, I brought it home, parked it in the garage and was startled out of my sleep at 4:30 am by the distinct sound of a car horn...full blast and steady.
After a short and panicked look for the horn (couldn't locate it) I opened the driver's door and smacked, hard, the center of steering wheel. Horn stopped immediately. So, I quickly disconnected the battery to avoid further embarrassment and early morning wake-ups, and that's where I'm at.
I noticed when I tried the horn after picking up the vehicle it didn't take much pressure to activate the horn.
I have a 2000 Excursion with the 7.3L. We bought it in February of last year with 81,000 miles on it, and it has 111,000 miles on it now.
First problem:
It threw a code today: P0683 indicating a communication issue between the Glow Plug Control Module and PCM Communication Circuit. Other than the code, the truck isn't doing anything out of the ordinary today. Drove it about 40 miles, up to 80 MPH, problem three below did show it's head once, but other than that it ran great.
Second problem:
Ever since we've owned the vehicle it has done a strange surging/near-stalling thing (for lack of a better word) when it's started up. It only does it occasionally, and the problem seems to appear, and then go away for several weeks or months only to reappear. Here's how it goes:
- Start truck
- After starting the truck immediately begins to surge (rev?) and then nearly stall.
- It will do this over and over, about one surge/near-stall cycle per second, until I tap the accelerator, at which point it stops immediately. So far it has never stopped on it's own, but has always stopped with a tap of the accelerator.
Up until recently I chalked this up to "huh, that's weird" since the truck has otherwise run fine.
Third Problem:
Every once in a while the truck will hiccup while it's up to speed. It only seems to do it at highway speeds, typically between 55-70, and the hiccup typically only occurs once.
The first time I distinctly remember it happening was right after I had replaced the Camshaft Position Sensor (approximately 5-6 weeks ago).
While digging around online I found one other guy say his truck started doing the same thing after replacing the CMP in his F250 with the same little plastic gray one I used. So that problem might be caused by that part.
My Thoughts:
It seems like the run-away favorite for fixing problem one is to replace the GPCM. I've dug through a couple hours of forums this afternoon/evening, and it looks to me like the GPCM is the culprit the vast majority of the time when code P0683 comes up.
I'm thinking problem 2 might be an ICP issue. I can't find any previous forums anywhere that describe the exact issue I'm having - or really anything very close. Maybe it's out there, but I couldn't find it. So I'm really grasping at straws.
Problem 3 could either be related to the ICP (if problem 2 is an ICP problem) or it could be due to the new CMP I installed (the cheap gray plastic one from Autozone). It's possible the hiccup has been around longer than I think. Half the time when it happens (or does it?) I can't decide if it was a hiccup or a bump on the road I didn't see. I am sure it's happening at times, but there are other times I'm not sure if it was a hiccup or a bump I just didn't see. So I think it's possible it's been going on longer than I realize, and I noticed it that first time because I had JUST been under the hood and pretty finely attuned to how the truck was running as a result.
I'm about to hitch my 35' camper to this truck and haul it a few hours and I'm not feeling real confident right now. Problem 1 hit today, problem 2 is more prevalent than every right now, and problem 3 has been hiccupping for 5 or 6 weeks. I'd like to get at least problems 1 and 3 sorted out before hauling 8,000 lbs if possible.
I have a 93 pontiac grand am 3300 V6 with auto tranny. My problem is cooling fan starts running as soon as car is started. AC not on or defrost. In turn doesn't allow engine to reach normal operating temp. I have replaced both the ect sensor & gauge sending unit. I've noticed there's a red light with temp symbol in lower left hand corner of instrument panel that stays on & won't allow ac to come on. Also if I unplug fan relay & allow engine to come up to operating temp the light hoes off. Until the engine drops below 200degrees then it'll come on again. It has just the one fan & I have ruled out the fan relay cause I replaced with a new one. Also, looking for wiring diagram for the rest of relays on firewall & as to what they control.
View 6 RepliesI have a '98 GPGT 2 door and just over this past winter the doors started to bind with the fenders. Is there a fix to this? I am afraid soon it will get so bad that it will bend the fender in. ( that happened to my wives '01 GP ).....
View 4 RepliesMy girlfriend has a 2008 with around 120k miles on it. It's been pretty flawless but yesterday the RPMs started surging while idle and made kind of a high pitch humming noise when accelerating.
Today on her way to work she said the radio was going in and out, the battery light lit up and then the rest of the dash lights came on, and the speedometer stopped working.
What could be the problem? Could it just be the battery?
Having an issue with my 2002 GP GT. I started it, but then it died after a couple of seconds while the "Security" light was flashing.
I actually had both original keys with and tried each to no avail (same thing: starts, but engine kills after a few seconds). I checked the PassKey III fuse and even replaced it - still no luck.
Called two different dealer service departments and they suggested turning the key to the "ON" position and leaving it for 15 minutes. I tried this 3 times and still the same issue.
I understand this can be a VERY expensive repair as I've read it requires replacing the ignition module and perhaps the Theft Deterrent Module. How to at least temporarily by-pass or reset the system so I don't have to get it towed (of course it's no where near my place).
My mechanic tells me I need the intake manifold gasket replaced (check engine light on, engine surging, running very rough). How much damage can I do to the car by doing this repair myself and screwing it up? I've done lots of repairs on my car before -- brake pads, rotors, replace oil pan. I also have a copy of the manufacturer's shop manual.
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