Grand AM :: 2001 - AC Just Started Blowing Warm
Sep 28, 2014
My wifes car AC just started blowing warm. I figured it was getting a little low on refrigerant. So I went and bought a can with the gauge on top, and I connected it and it was reading half way into the red zone....way overcharged. But nobody has put any in the system since we bought the car over a year ago. The AC has been great for all this time. So how can it be blowing warm and be overcharged that much without overheating the cars engine ? The clutch is coming on with the compressor?
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I have an 05 prius that has been a great car 193,000 miles with no issues, until now. AC started blowing warm air so took it to mechanic who replaced the compressor. Blew cold for a day and started blowing warm again. Took it back to mechanic replaced the evaporator. Same thing blew cold for a day and then warm air next day.
Mechanic told me to take it to Toyota to get it looked at and they said 3 way coolant valve so we replaced that and still blowing warm air. Took it back to Toyota for the second time and they said it was a bad compressor so we replaced that and still no cold air. No AC in Florida summer is getting old fast need to get this fixed.
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98 e150 - 4.6l, 185k, My air started blowing warm the other day. It worked perfectly fine. I checked the compressor to see if it was turning. Nope! I am wondering if it could be the clutch?
I replaced the alternator and changed the serpentine belt a couple of months ago and noticed a very slight whining sound sometime after I did this. I thought something might be going and just ignored it and said to myself, that's all the new tread in the new belt whining a little. Could be! not sure.
Anyway, where could I possibly start an easy procedure to see why the failure in the compressor not turning? Compressor is a lot harder to get at than an alternator!
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Just the other day my A/C had started to blow hot air, so I looked online and was told to try and re-charge it by a few people so I went and bought a can of that r-134a recharge and as it was on the low port the gauge was not reading like any of the guides I saw, as it did not stay at just one # it would go from 25 then back up to 40+ then slowly back down and just kept going up and down, I am assuming as the compressor was kicking on.
So I did not charge it at all because the PSI said to be in my car at the temp was 45 and if it was doing this but going 25-40 and back I did not want to over fill it.
So then this morning after doing that last night my engine light comes on, but I was told that the a/c will not effect this but I had it checked and I got an error code (P2195) "lack of heated oxygen sensor bank 1 sensor 1 H02S11 switch sensor indicates lean" with a few causes that may be the reason.
Should I go ahead and charge the a/c? will this cel code have anything to do with the a/c? and also why was the gauge changing like that and not at one steady number? Could it be because the car is running hot and maybe I need to check the anti freeze/coolant?
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The A/C on my 2004 Accord has started blowing warm air out of the 2 driver side vents, but still blows cold air out of the 2 passenger side vents. It also occasionally blows condensation out of the 2 cold passenger vents. When this same thing happened last summer, the condenser and compressor were replaced within 3 weeks of each other. It is less than a year later and the same problem is occurring. Even more odd; every once in a while the 2 driver side vents will blow cold for just a few minutes, then revert to blowing warm air. The car does not have dual climate controls.
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I have a '98 GPGT 2 door and just over this past winter the doors started to bind with the fenders. Is there a fix to this? I am afraid soon it will get so bad that it will bend the fender in. ( that happened to my wives '01 GP ).....
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This weekend was a nice high 80's low 90's. My AC is usually ice cold. However now that the weather hit that high, when we are in stop-and-go traffic, the AC starts blowing warm humid air. I do see the temperature need creep a bit higher than the normal range.
Once we start driving, after a few minutes, the climbs back down and the cold AC returns. Turning the fan speed down, or turning the compressor off, then on again, seems to work.
What could be causing this? A friend said he has this issue with his car claiming the engine is the issue, not being powerful enough to keep the compressor running right, is that possible?
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I've recently purchased a 2007 Prius and I just noticed few days go that A/C blows warm air (weather was fair when I bought it and I can't remember if it really worked or not then) and middle vents do not blow any air. I'm not sure if two problems are connected but I do want to get both fixed without spending $$$ at the dealership. Where can I start?
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01 7.3 247k.
Yesterday went to get on the freeway I looked back and saw a cloud of what looked like blue smoke. I'm in northern Utah and it's cold but the truck runs fine, I haven't noticed any change in performance. Turbo still builds boost. I pulled the fuel filter cap last night to check fuel color and it was clean.
I do have the CCV mod done. I also pulled to IC Pipe off the turbo and there was a little oil in there but not much, should there be any at all with the CCV mod? Where to start.
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I have a 2001 f250 superduty 7.3L diesel and my air conditioner just randomly started blowing HOT south texas air. I tried to recharge it with refrigerant but the gauge said that it was over charged as soon as I plugged it into the low side port. What is wrong???
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Ok so I just bought this car, 1993 pontiac grand am se, from a neighbor. When I test drove it, the back seat was all unscrewed so I thought no biggie and it drove really nice for being a 1993. Ended up buying the car. I get the car home, husband puts seats back together and we go to leave for town and the fuel pump fuse blew. Put a new one in, go to start the car, fuse blows again! Tow the car home. Husband checks the wires to make sure there is no faulty wires. Has to reground the ground wire. Car then starts. Go to drive down my driveway and the dang fuse blew again! Mind you there is a new fuel pump in the car so we know this isn't what is wrong with it.
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Having an issue with my car blowing fuel pump fuses every once in a while under heavy to moderate acceleration. Have replaced inline fuel filter and the fuel pump resister(white ceramic part). Runs fine with normal driving, but when I want to get some horses out of it, it will cut out and stall and once i replace blown fuse it will start back up again, and I'm off and running again.
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99 grand am,v-6 SE-2.my car has recently started to stall at times. Mostly in the afternoon when it is hotter. Runs for about 20 min. and then looses power and stalls. Will not restart unless I turn the key off and back on. Sometimes I have to do this about 10 times before it stays running. Each time I turn it back on the fuel pump pumps up within seconds. Stalls at idle and at part throttle. When it starts to stall you can here it sucking air big time. When it runs it runs great.there are no codes. Once it starts to stall it never recovers, just takes longer sometimes.
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I have a 99 Grand Am GT 3400. Just starting doing this, when you start the engine, it starts surging rhythmically as if you are pushing on the accelerator and letting off. When I put it in gear, I have to have the brake firmly pushed down as it lurches forward severely. I haven't driven it far, but it seems once you get going it runs fine.
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I have a 98 Grand am with the 2.5 and recently noticed first that the a/c compressor wasn't coming on. It had freon added recently and did okay for a few days,then no compressor coming on again. (It still has freon) Then I noticed that the engine cooling fan was running as long as the engine is running on cold or hot engine with heat controls off (I know the compressor runs when on on defrost position as well as a/c). I thought the 2 problems may be related? I found 5 relays at R/F strut tower and the 3rd relay cut off the fan,so I swapped some of the relays, but made no difference.The fan only quits when I turn the engine off, and I can't get the a/c compressor to come. I don't if I have 2 seperate problems or not. Could it be the PCM?
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I just purchased a 99 GA SE, 130K, 3.4L and when we test drove it the horn did not work. Salesman said previous owner disconnected it because it "had a mind of its own". Dealer reconnected horn, I brought it home, parked it in the garage and was startled out of my sleep at 4:30 am by the distinct sound of a car horn...full blast and steady.
After a short and panicked look for the horn (couldn't locate it) I opened the driver's door and smacked, hard, the center of steering wheel. Horn stopped immediately. So, I quickly disconnected the battery to avoid further embarrassment and early morning wake-ups, and that's where I'm at.
I noticed when I tried the horn after picking up the vehicle it didn't take much pressure to activate the horn.
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I have a 93 pontiac grand am 3300 V6 with auto tranny. My problem is cooling fan starts running as soon as car is started. AC not on or defrost. In turn doesn't allow engine to reach normal operating temp. I have replaced both the ect sensor & gauge sending unit. I've noticed there's a red light with temp symbol in lower left hand corner of instrument panel that stays on & won't allow ac to come on. Also if I unplug fan relay & allow engine to come up to operating temp the light hoes off. Until the engine drops below 200degrees then it'll come on again. It has just the one fan & I have ruled out the fan relay cause I replaced with a new one. Also, looking for wiring diagram for the rest of relays on firewall & as to what they control.
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Having an issue with my 2002 GP GT. I started it, but then it died after a couple of seconds while the "Security" light was flashing.
I actually had both original keys with and tried each to no avail (same thing: starts, but engine kills after a few seconds). I checked the PassKey III fuse and even replaced it - still no luck.
Called two different dealer service departments and they suggested turning the key to the "ON" position and leaving it for 15 minutes. I tried this 3 times and still the same issue.
I understand this can be a VERY expensive repair as I've read it requires replacing the ignition module and perhaps the Theft Deterrent Module. How to at least temporarily by-pass or reset the system so I don't have to get it towed (of course it's no where near my place).
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I turned on my AC... set the temp to 62 degrees (pressed AUTO and pressed the button where all the AC controls are all the same temp) ... And its blowing out warm air.. Left it running for about 5 minutes and still no sign of cold air.... Am I doing something wrong? do i not know how to turn on the AC?
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