So for the past couple months every time I get on this incline on a freeway transition my temperate gauge spikes to red and the notification center tells me the car is overheating and to pull over a couple seconds later it goes back to normal. This has happened about 7 times now over the past couple months. 07 LS460 just hit 80K miles.
View 14 RepliesSo my oil doesn't leak when it off it will only leak when it's at normal driving temperate it is coming from the cast piece that my oil pan (the plastic piece) is on... Where it connects to the actual motor... Any clue what it would be? BTW it is a 2011 Santa Fe
View 6 RepliesI am losing heat intermittently and temperature gauge spikes out intermittently. Got down to intake gasket and it is visibly bad but wonder if i should keep going to replace head gasket?
View 4 RepliesMy 2005 Hyundai Elantra GLS has had 0 problems. It has about 132K on it, but it's still awesome.
I was stuck in some nasty traffic the other day in 95 degree NC weather, and was idling for about 15 minutes with the AC on. Out of nowhere, it felt like my AC got warm and I saw my coolant temp gauge spike from just under midway to 3/4 of the way. Unsettling.
As soon as I got on the gas and drove for about 5-10 seconds, it dropped precipitously back to normal. I was able to recreate this behavior once I got home. Normal driving results in normal temperature. Both fans appear to running.
Fluctuating temperature gauge? In the past few weeks I have noticed that my temp gauge goes over the normal temp line but the car never actually overheats. This doesn't happen all the time and only every once in a while. Today however, the gauge went very high and I immediately put the heat on high and it slowly dropped to normal again.
I had a water pump replaced several years ago and last year had the thermostat replaced as well. The only thing I have had done recently was an oil change at one of those convenience stations. During the check-point, I was asked if I wanted the filter changed that filters the air coming into the car. I said no, but now wondering if they actually disconnected something when checking for this. The reason I'm bringing this up is because sometimes I don't get hot air when the heat is on or cold air when the a/c is on.
After reading online more about this, I read that a faulty Temperature Sensor can give a false reading. Just added some water to the radiator but not much...so no leaks that I can see.
Got my 1979 Ford Bronco (351M engine) from my father. He had it in Colorado, mostly in a garage. Had 82,000 miles when I got it and has 67,000 miles now. Runs fine when the outside temperature is less than 80F. Above 80F, the will get hotter and hotter and the temp. gauge will climb. When the temp. gauge is 2/3 of the wat between Cool and Hot it will start to buck and cut out. Eventually the engine will stop. Then I have to wait for it to cool down to repeat the cycle. I have replaced all hoses, radiator, thermostat (3 times), radiator cap, carb. I have installed SS louvers in the hood. Heck, I have even "burbed" it (see Internet).
View 14 Replies3 months ago.. I had my fan clutch replaced, along with alternator.. a few coils.. a belt and an oil change. While installing fan clutch the shop accidentally poked a hole in radiator so they got a new one ( After Market) and replaced it. After leaving the shop, I noticed the fan clutch was not rotating smoothly, it had a considerable wobble to it, so took it back and it was replaced..new one did same things.. so it was replaced again. Truck seemed fine after the 3rd one was installed, and then after a a 3 hour drive.. i pulled over to gas station, and while truck was at idle in park.. it started to run hot. Raised hood, there was no visible coolant in holding tank on side, so after a while.. i took cap off and as I released it... coolant started to bubble back into holding tank. I then started truck up.. it was fine rest of way home.
Over next few weeks, this happened 4 times.. ac will be on, truck sitting still at red light etc.. and truck will start to run hot. So i had a new thermostat installed, and also a new water pump. Took it to a guy who runs a shop i know and also had system vacuumed. ( it was burped prior). Thought we had it fixed.. NOPE.. did it again yesterday. So truck has had new fan clutch, new thermostat, new water pump, new coolant, new radiator.. and it still only runs hot if at idle.. and it wont do it all the time.. but about once a week.. it will... and it will go over to red.. and ill shut it off and after about 10 min.. turn back on and continue on my way.. What I noticed..and this may be a key piece of info to someone who may know what is going on... it seems that the times it has ran hot.. while at idle the fan clutch was off.. and once i reved engine up to 2500-3000 rpms.. I got clutch to engage and bam !!.. truck comes back down to normal temp.. midway on gauge .. AS long as I am driving down road.. no problems.
** Also as a sidenote.. my engine does have a engine coolant temp sensor on it. Part # DY 1025 motorcraft. On some vehicles.. this part tells the fan when to turn on.. not sure if it does on mine. Originally , I took truck in bc fan clutch was staying engaged to much..meaning fan was on all the time. So.. maybe it could be the sensor ?... now all the new fan clutchs that have been put on do not come on like they are suppose to.. work right sometimes.. other times.. truck has to be at high rpms to get it to engage.. not working right all the time at low rpms.
Are their fan clutch relays ?.. I have an electric fan clutch.. This seems to me that this is a fan clutch issue.. and this is the 3rd one on the truck.. came from autozone.. it is the correct one for truck and has a warranty. Mechanic now wants to try going with a ford fan clutch by motorcraft.. 2007 F150 5.4 V8 ...
When taking our 2007 RX out of say a 72 degree garage to say a 90 degree day, it takes at least 10 minutes for the outside temp gauge to finally creep up to the ambient temperature. The gauge feels very sluggish at all other times.
View 14 RepliesI spent all day replacing my knock sensors and after getting everything back together now it wants to overheat. The thermostat is not that old before today there were no coolant problems.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2007 Prius and the red triangle showed up. It has less than 50,000 miles. I noticed that almost right after I start it up the hybrid battery fan kicks on. This leads me to believe that maybe one or more cells in the hybrid battery are overheating due to charging problems. Is there a way I can check this out without going to the dealer?
View 3 RepliesI dimmed my gauges to 1/4 brightness and went for a drive at night. When applying brakes or speeding from a stop...the needles have a slight pulsing effect. LS460 ....
View 14 Replies2005 camry SE I4. 333225 miles. Replaced radiator, thermostat, cap, and coolant. Still getting intermittent temp spikes. Spikes are 3-4 marks on gauge. Was pegging gauge with spikes before the change. What the heck else can it be? I flushed block and and water pump is only about 6 months old.
View 5 RepliesI am curious to see what you think. I had my car chipped by upsolute. For as long as I have had it and even when I took the chipping off, restoring my car to stock, i was getting pressure spikes, lousy throttle response and lousy gas mileage. For a while, I was going to the dealer every other week or so, trying to find out why my car was kicking into limp mode. Upsolute said it was the car and the dealership said it was the chipping.
Anyway last saturday I was inspecting my air filter and airbox (nice little pile of sand and a couple of leaves in there-I am sure that didn't work my mileage any). I moved the airbox a little and the hose which connects to the airbox underneath the air intake ductwork, fell off the airbox on its own. It was never clamped in place. I am told that is the hose that goes directly to the MAF Sensor.
My question, if all else is tight, do you think I have found the source of my over pressure and lousy gas mileage problems? The car certainly feels like it. I went and tightened up every hose connection I could find. My car feels like it has a new motor with a healthy growl to boot. Mileage appears to be up as well. What do you think? I thought about restoring my chipping but I wont do that.
One is that I have a very good extended warranty still in effect and don't want to risk losing it. They would love to hear the car is chipped. Then its good by policy. The other reason is that the guy who chipped it said he would put it back in but would not remove it if I am wrong. The dealership said they could not and would not restore my car to stock even though I cannot believe they don't have the tools around to do so.
2005 Elantra with around 92,000 miles. Two days ago the temp would spike while at idle not dangerously hot but would come close, the temp would cool down once i started driving. Cooling fans both work and coolant levels are good. Just yesterday the A/C just stopped working and car would come close to overheating while going down the road now.
View 10 RepliesThis Dakota has the 3.9 with about 240.000 miles. New battery and Alternator within the last 18 months.
The other day after driving about 12 miles the chime "Check Gauges" come on and I noted that the voltage gauge on the dash was buried at Max.Pulled over shut off the truck and popped the hood. No visible problems. Got back in, started the engine and the gauge went back to it's normal position. I had expected to see smoke from the alternator or the battery blown to pieces from the overload. I also noted that there was no excess heat at the alternator or battery.
I picked up my DVM from the shop to carry along and have driven at least 5 trips over 15 miles since. Today the same problem occurred, but by the time I pulled into a close-by parking lot the meter went back to normal. I checked the voltage at the battery and had 13.25 volts with the engine off and 14.40 volts with the engine running. I drove another 40 miles with no problems.
Tomorrow I plan to run a lead from the battery into the cabin, so I can monitor the voltage quicker if the problem reappears.
I have a 2006 f250 bulletproofed for about 5 years now with no problems other than normal wear and tear. I had the factory water pump go out a couple months ago so I decided to go with the bulletproof diesel pump for piece of mind now I do tow anywhere from 8K-15K about once a week with custom Gearhead tunes using SCT.
While I was changing water pump, I ordered low temp thermostat figured it would work with towing temps even though they weren't that bad to begin with my deltas always around 10-128.. Now i am seeing signs of puking out degas bottle, I replaced cap seems to work a little the truck doesn't puke unloaded unless i really get down on it.
I noticed the other day while towing I was cruising with TC locked in at around 55 mph and i watched my EOT 210* and ECT 205*, the n ECT started climbing up followed by EOT then at ECT 222* fan came on ECT finally hit 234* and started dropping fast while EOT never got over 226*. ECT would level out at 188* go back up to 205* and stay there for awhile and do it all over again...
What is going on. I've talked to a could mechanics and they aren't confident its the HG..
Problem with my 2006 F150 5.4 4x4... Voltmeter spikes, battery light comes on, grinding noise as 4x4 engages on its own then everything returns to normal after about 60 seconds. Took to Ford who replaced the alternator and battery, still doing it so they replaced the alternator again...they checked the wiring and replaced some other misc parts and don't know what the problem is. The problem occurs once every few days, after only a few minutes or after a few hours, completely random.
View 6 RepliesMy GF's 07 Santa Fe AWD has the common (from what I've read) bad sensors in the gas tank for the fuel gauge. She needs an Echeck SOON and it won't pass with a CEL. can the codes be cleared and a fuse or something pulled to temp defeat the CEL until a proper repair can be done when we have time to do it? I don't drive it so I don't know how long before it comes back on after clearing it. It needs a drive cycle on it to get it to pass E check to so I can't clear the code and drive straight to the check center (I dont' think).
View 4 RepliesHaving 55k on my 2007 Santa Fe, and having brought it in 1 month ago for that 46k check up, this is my problem since. It started with an erratic gas gauge last Friday ,my tank said empty knowing i still had 1/4 tank, so l filled it up, 30 minutes later light goes on seems no gas in it, 30 seconds later check engine goes on, the Fe is running fine though, I called the dealer and made an appointment for next week, he said as long as car runs fine I can drive it.
Engine light goes off when fuel indicates 3/4 full, but erratic gas gauge seems to fluctuate.
2.5 months ago I had a coolant flush in my 2007 explorer Eddie Bauer. The last 3 days last week the temp gauge went from the middle where it usually sits, to maxed out in the red. Stays there for about 45 secs and then drops back down.
Is it coincidence that I had a flush and maybe they didn't fill it all the way back up or is it somthing else ?
One other thing- even when it sits in the middle of the gauge I can sometimes hear the engine sucking in air like a vacuum so I guess at certain times its running hot but just doesn't raise the gauge just yet.
When it gets cold (about 40 Fahrenheit or less) and I drive the car after it hasn't been driven for a few hours, the temp gauge goes way up and there's no heat. But after a little while I can rev the engine hard and the temp drops and the heat starts blowing warm. The radiator is full with pretty much 100% antifreeze.
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