When it gets cold (about 40 Fahrenheit or less) and I drive the car after it hasn't been driven for a few hours, the temp gauge goes way up and there's no heat. But after a little while I can rev the engine hard and the temp drops and the heat starts blowing warm. The radiator is full with pretty much 100% antifreeze.
View 3 RepliesI have a 99 Town car and have problems starting when it is cold (under 20 degrees). The engine cranks. If I jump it it will start after about 30 cranks then it runs fine. Looks like a lot of carbon being blown out the tail pipe. When it is warmed up it starts fine and runs fine, just won't start early in the morning when it is 10 degrees outside.
View 4 RepliesOver the last 30 days or so my 2005 Town car has been acting up when I start it when shes cold. She would normally rev at a higher rpm when cold and then idle down when she warmed up.
I have checked the throttle plate, replaced the throttle position sensor and checked for vacuum leaks. Is there a specific sensor that I should change out in my process of elimination?
1995 lincoln lights blink not completely off just flashes.
View 4 RepliesMy 1997 Town Car has had the sound from the dash related to the blend door actuator in other posts. Noise would last for 5 - 10 minutes and go away. Today I noticed when driving I was getting a wild fluctuation in heat when set to automatic on the climate control so I decided to run the diagnostic to verify the blend door problem. I got code 024 so I know it is the actuator. My problem since I ran the diagnostic(exited by pushing defrost) the actuator noise is now constant and I have no heat, only cool air is blowing. Is there a reset I can do for the actuator? It's as if it is stuck in test mode.
View 8 RepliesI have a 1999 Mercury Tracer with a 2.0 engine. 149,000 miles on the engine. Here is the trouble, it overheats at low driving speeds. My temp stays normal at idle in the driveway, normal at speeds of 35/45/55 or more. After about 10-15 minutes of driving around 25-30MPH though, the temp climbs steadily and approaches the red line. I checked my oil level and coolant level. Both of them appear to be fine. I have not noticed any leaks from the water pump area and cannot see any coolant in my driveway.
Could it be the thermostat is stuck closed? Air bubble in my coolant?
I have NOT pressure tested it yet, but I will be doing that this evening.
I have a 1994 Toyota truck that overheats and dies after 2-3 hours of driving. Once it cools, it starts back up until it gets hot again. It has been taken to many different professionals and no one can find anything wrong with this truck. One shop changed the fuel filter and checked the catalytic converter. Another checked the radiator. One said it could be the fuel pump, but found nothing wrong. The problem still exists! The truck is used for work (delivering mail in rural areas) so there is a lot of stop and go.
View 9 RepliesIf I'm driving around town and have to accelerate to merge with traffic, the ICE will come on even though I'm in EV mode. I understand why that would/should happen. But why does it stay on for so long after that? It seems like it stays on for several minutes, even if you're driving slow after the the few seconds of acceleration. And I've noticed a few times under the above circumstances that the ICE is clearly on (I can feel it's on) but the dashboard indicator shows it is off. What gives?
View 19 RepliesI drive a 2000 VW Passat 1.8T. The car has about 93K on it. One day I was driving downtown and my ENGINE OIL PRESSURE WARNING LIGHT COMES ON telling me low oil pressure STOP THE ENGINE before I could stop the engine the damn thing went dead and wouldn't start back, but it sounded like it wanted to start I never had this happen to me before so I got it towed to a VW dealership they were like I have never seen this happen before so they did what they normally do and came back and said that they cannot fine anything wrong and told me that they have a guy that comes in like twice a week and know everything about those type of car and he should know what the problem is?
View 12 RepliesI have a 2006 Scion XB I purchased last year. Last week the air was blowing cold in town and then blowing warm at highway speed. I took it to my mechanic who charged the system (said it was a pound low) and said he did not detect any leaks. Now suddenly it stops blowing cold altogether. Not all the time. It blows cold in the morning. Then in the afternoon when I leave work it blows hot. But I can stop the car a few miles down the road, turn the car off, start it back up, and it blows cold....
View 3 Repliesi have a 05 GTI 1.8T and recently started overheating while driving. for a few months it would overheat if i idled too long but now after driving for 5 minutes it overheats and also wont build any boost. i could hear a hissing sound after i shut the car and thats coming from the flange where the coolant temp sensor is, but is hissing where is mounts to the engine.
update- i replaced the o-ring on the flange, that got rid of the hissing. the no boost must have been due to the engine overheating, but it is still overheating i guess im gonna check the thermostat next.
update 2 - checked thermostat and it is good so I'm at a loss here.
My 2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue keeps overheating when driving over the mountainous area outside of town. It usually occurs when coming back from drill (4 hour drive). The mountainous region is around the 3.5 hour mark. All the fluids are normal. Coolant is within the preferred region and oil is the same. But every time I climb the mountain it reaches to the overheat mark and I have to kick on the heater to save the engine. Is there another reason behind why it over heats?
View 2 RepliesSo I have heard that, it is only good to turn on the ECO mode when you are driving in the city or town. When you drive onto highway, you should turn ECO off. Any good explanation of what is the best method of using the ECO button?
View 26 RepliesI have a new to me 2009 matrix. I have noticed that the RPMs at around 2,200 when driving in town at 40 MPH then after a few minutes they drop to 1,600. I know I'm wasting gas running 2,200 RPM when driving at 40 MPH so I have started putting the car in neutral then quickly back into drive and the RPMs are at 1,600. I am also putting the car in neutral as I come to a red light or stop sign RPMs drop to around 900.
View 1 RepliesI had an issue with my 2011 6.7 this weekend and I'm clueless after doing the google search for info. My truck started overheating after driving it about 10 miles in tow with a light load (20 foot boat). So my first panic reaction is to stop and check the fluids which all check out as good on the levels if I am checking them correctly.
So it cools off and we go for another spin and now that I am paying more attention I notice abnormally high RPMs before it shifts into all gears and that the heat seems to be a by product of this. there is no abnormal vibrations of any type but it sounds like someone learning to drive a standard for the first time.
I does it almost every time. So I tried the manual shift option and it had no problem and no overheat. If it reaches the 6th gear without the overheat alert posting it runs fine but getting there seems to be an issue.
In the back of my mind I do remember hearing this high RPM before but I have a short drive to work and back so I didn't think much about it as I have definitely keyed in on it now. I have only had the truck a year and I do not know when the service was done last on the Transmission.
I have a 2003 F250 Ext Cab 158" wheel base, 5.4, auto. 2wd
Last week I noticed a squeak squeak squeak while driving through town, sounded like the u-joint. I got home, jacked it up and pulled the rear shaft. Unfortunately I, bone-headedly, did not mark it when I pulled it. I took it into town and had a shop put in two new U-joints from autozone.
I got home and, forgetting to mark it, put the driveshaft in 180 degrees out. This caused the whole assembly to get out of balance and tear up the carrier bearing.
I replaced everything, pulled the complete shaft and disassembled it to put the new carrier on it...again, for some reason I didn't mark it. I knew I was supposed to.
It destroyed the carrier bearing again. So I limped it to my mechanic the next morning. He went through and replaced the front u-joint and carrier and called it good. I picked it up that afternoon and it was vibrating again.
I took it back and they kept it overnight and fixed it again. The problem they had was the driveshaft was coming back on the 'flex' and rubbing into the carrier instead of sliding back and forth, it was sticking.
They got that all fixed up and the wife picked up the truck while I was at work Friday. I called her at lunch and she said it was still squeaking like before I took it to the shop. I get home that evening and drive it and, sure enough, it's squeaking like it has a bad u-joint.
But the squeak didn't start right away, I had to drive it about 5 miles for it to start, and then I didn't hear it until I slowed down enough to get rid of the wind noise.
I took it back to the mechanic this morning. He called me around 4 and said they drove it about 25 miles around town and on the highway and couldn't duplicate the noise.
He said they went ahead and hit the grease zirks on all 3 u joints(even the ones they didn't install on the rear shaft) and they couldn't hear any squeaks. So I pick it up, drive through town a bit and start heading home. No squeaks.
I get about 20 miles out of town and slow down going over a bridge with the windows down, and there is the squeak again. Still sounds like a bad u-joint. But I didn't hear it until I drove it about 25 or 30 miles. What this noise is or what I need to be looking for?
Back in January I had my right front wheel bearing and u-joint go out, so I replaced them both. At the time I didn't realize my outer stub axle shaft was wore so I just put it back in. After a little driving the right side started to "thump" and "pop" when I would make hard left turns driving around town.
I replaced the outer front stub axle shaft and seal again because the old one was worn down. This eliminated any play in the u-joint. After a bit of driving the thumping and popping noise came back.
I decided to dig into it today so I pulled it all apart. When everything is apart it turns easily, no issue at all. When I assembled the wheel bearing, torqued it to 55 ft/lbs and installed and "locked" the hub I noticed something peculiar. I can barely turn the whole assembly by hand. I have to put a good amount of force to get the whole assembly to turn at all. When I walk to the driver side with all the same parts there i can turn the wheel bearing and locked axle shaft with one finger on the studs.
I have been in this thing 5 times and can not figure out what the heck is wrong. I can't figure out why this stupid axle shaft and wheel bearing are so hard to turn, together or separately, and I can't figure out how to get my front end to stop that thumping and popping.
I replaced my upper radiator hose on my 2000 vintage TC 4.6 liter V-8 yesterday and normally I would add coolant through the top radiator cap and not the overflow reservoir.
Apparently this car does not have a radiator cap and has only the overflow reservoir tank to add anti-freeze. Checked the owner's manual and my Lincoln repair book, they just said to use the reservoir tank. While I did not loose or have to add much, what if I had to replace the lower hose, or the radiator itself with all that coolant gone?
In other words while I am waiting for the overflow tank to add anti-freeze while the engine is running, I am operating a car with out enough or no liquid at all which seems nuts, is there some technique that I don't know about to add anti-freeze?
So if I let my car idle for more than 5 minutes the car starts to over heat. The engine fans do not turn on. I was waiting for wife and fell alseep in the car and it idled for about 20 minutes, I woke up to the audio alert and a red temp light in dash.
The temp was almost all the way to the right. I shut the car off for a few, restarted and drove and the temp went back to normal. Took home and checked for fans and neither of them are turning on. Assuming it is a switch or sensor issue.
So my question is did I do any long term damage by getting engine so hot? Taking to delaer tomorrow AM. This should be covered under power train warranty, right? If not how about certified warranty?
my 2000 Ex has a 6.8 and it overheats when the ac is on and anything over 60mph, im not loosing coolant, is the clutch for the fan shot??
View 14 RepliesMy neighbor asked me to look at her "car". The car is around a '92. After taking the column apart, I found the problem. The PLASTIC piece connecting the ignition switch to the ignition box broke. I would like to know the name of that part, and anywhere one can be found(new). I know I probably have to remove the steering wheel, and of course, the ignition switch.
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