I have a 99 Town car and have problems starting when it is cold (under 20 degrees). The engine cranks. If I jump it it will start after about 30 cranks then it runs fine. Looks like a lot of carbon being blown out the tail pipe. When it is warmed up it starts fine and runs fine, just won't start early in the morning when it is 10 degrees outside.
View 4 RepliesI'm TSing a no-start on my 2005 6.0L F250. Engine cranks fine. I've been working my way thru the TSing guide and using my new ScanGaugeII. No codes found. At glow plug warmup, (dash light goes off), I'm getting 40.5v FMP, 11.0v FLP, 14.8% ICP, and 0psi IPR. After cranking for 10-15 sec, get 35.5v, 10.0v, 84.7%, and 446psi. I've had a trickle charger on all night to keep the batteries charged. Have not seen FMP over 45 or IPR over 470.
View 14 RepliesMy son had the starter replaced on his 97 Eclipse a couple of months ago and ever since then it seems to be more difficult to start if it has been sitting for a few hours or more. It cranks for 5 or 10 seconds before it catches. If the car is warm or has only sat for an hour or two it starts fine. The battery has been tested and is fine. The fuel filter was replaced about 30k miles ago. He also thinks he has one injector that is performing below par. It idles a tad rough. A friend said to clean or change the air filter and change the fuel filter. He had injector cleaner put in it the other day but that has not solved the starting issue at all yet. Don't know if the injector issue is causing the poor starting or not.
View 5 Replies'99 Explorer 5.0 doesn't want to start in the cold weather, below 30. After it finally starts it runs great and will start all day. It cranks fast but it doesn't get driven every day.
View 2 RepliesRemoving fuel injectors-coolant contamination.. How is this done? I need to see if they are any good-or clean/replace them-after I accidentally left the clip off the hose running out of the thermostat housing when I drained my coolant last week and the first time I drove, coolant leaked onto the top of the engine/manifold depressions, getting onto and into the fuel injectors.
I tried to clean it up as much as possible the first time(finally got it going) but still a few days later the truck at times cranks but does not start-hot or cold. I assume my idiocy is the cause or maybe it is just coincidence of something else? From what I read from my symptoms it could also be the fuel pump relay, pressure regulator, coolant temp sensor, crank sensor.. among other things. My fuel pump is 1.5 years old, so hopefully that isnt it. Have the injectors possibly been contaminated to where I should just replace them?
Having an issue with my 2007 Santa Fe 3.3L. When the engine is cold, been sitting for a few hours not when the temp outside is cold, it takes about 5 to 8 cranks before the engine will fire. I can then shut it off immediately and start it again and it will fire right up.
I currently have the P0464, P0463 and P2068 check engine error codes for the fuel level sensor units. I don't really know if these are directly related as I've had them for about 6 months and the starting issue has just shown up the last month or so. Plus, I would assume these should only be related to sending fuel level information to the fuel gauge. Either way, I'm still leaning toward a fuel delivery issue since it only has a hard time starting when the car has been sitting for a few hours. I don't know if maybe it's the fuel pump or a electrical component. If it's the fuel pump, I'd like to do that when I take care of the sending units so I don't have to go back in. I've tried turning the car to the 'on" position for about 10 seconds without starting it to see if I could get the pump to load the line, if that's the issue, but it doesn't seem to make a difference.
The battery is good. It tested 12.5v after sitting over night.
When it gets cold (about 40 Fahrenheit or less) and I drive the car after it hasn't been driven for a few hours, the temp gauge goes way up and there's no heat. But after a little while I can rev the engine hard and the temp drops and the heat starts blowing warm. The radiator is full with pretty much 100% antifreeze.
View 3 RepliesMy girlfriend has a 2003 f150 4.6lt pick up its a great truck most of the time. Problem is when the temp gets in the neg double digits it becomes very hard to start it cranks fine but doesnt want to fire. When it does fire it might stall a few times before it stays running. The last cold snap we had I replaced the battery and in the summer the starter got changed. I have heard that this model of truck are known for hard cold starts. I am just wondering if this is true and any other thing besides block heater. It is strange that my 89 gm pickup will start no matter what temp and I'm having problems with the newer truck.
View 1 RepliesOver the last 30 days or so my 2005 Town car has been acting up when I start it when shes cold. She would normally rev at a higher rpm when cold and then idle down when she warmed up.
I have checked the throttle plate, replaced the throttle position sensor and checked for vacuum leaks. Is there a specific sensor that I should change out in my process of elimination?
My 1997 Town Car has had the sound from the dash related to the blend door actuator in other posts. Noise would last for 5 - 10 minutes and go away. Today I noticed when driving I was getting a wild fluctuation in heat when set to automatic on the climate control so I decided to run the diagnostic to verify the blend door problem. I got code 024 so I know it is the actuator. My problem since I ran the diagnostic(exited by pushing defrost) the actuator noise is now constant and I have no heat, only cool air is blowing. Is there a reset I can do for the actuator? It's as if it is stuck in test mode.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2006 Scion XB I purchased last year. Last week the air was blowing cold in town and then blowing warm at highway speed. I took it to my mechanic who charged the system (said it was a pound low) and said he did not detect any leaks. Now suddenly it stops blowing cold altogether. Not all the time. It blows cold in the morning. Then in the afternoon when I leave work it blows hot. But I can stop the car a few miles down the road, turn the car off, start it back up, and it blows cold....
View 3 RepliesWhen I turn the key to start the engine, it makes the sound (I don't know what to call it) that it makes before the engine actually starts but it just keeps doing that. The dash has the battery light on in red so I think that might be the problem. It also flashed "STOP" at me on the dash so I stopped fiddling with it.
The dealership is only a few blocks away but they are closed until tuesday. What is usually the problem in this case? I know almost nothing about how cars work.
I went to start my car this morning it cranks and nothing it is not firing at all, and I do not hear the fuel pump when I open the door like I usually do. It just happened all the sudden. Is there a way to check fuel pressure in these in the W8? Also any known problems to make them do this? So irritating...
View 4 RepliesI just purchased an '01 Elantra a few days ago. The car starts and runs when the engine is cool, although it hesitates during acceleration, and when it's warm outside it bounces between 1000 and 2000 RPM in neutral and park. The last day or so it's been chilly and the idle has been steady, but low (500 RPM). Once the engine warms up, however, if you shut it off for a few minutes and try to restart it cranks but won't start until the engine cools off.
The previous owner replaced the fuel pump, cam sensor, crank sensor, spark plugs and wires, and I replaced the intake gasket and the idle air control valve, all with no effect. I can hear the fuel pump when I key it on, and I've checked for spark at each of the plugs, and even pulled the injectors and cranked it a few times to be sure that they were firing. Everything seems to be in working order.
So I bought a project golf vr6, but the head and some of the components were off, I have all the parts but I just cannot figure out why it is not wanting to start, it cranks over but does not start...
View 1 Replies1994 Geo Tracker 1.6L 16V engine won't start, but cranks. I have spark, compression is good, fuel (good fuel), new spark plugs, the crankshaft and camshaft are timed, the distributor is timed, there are no error codes but the ECU is fine.
I've put in new spark plugs and wires, new fuel injectors, new timing belt, new air filter. All sensors are hooked up and working. It cranks, but doesn't start. It keeps burning fuel, I can hear it and feel it in the engine, but it won't start and run.
One thing which I've noticed is weird is the crankshaft is very difficult to turn when it hits certain points. I try to turn it and it will go about a third or a turn pretty easily, but then it gets stuck and I have to turn the key to get it past that point. Then I try to turn it by hand again and it has the same problem in a different spot. It hasn't started in a month at this point, I'm planning on taking the distributor out and realigning it tomorrow, but I'm running out of things to test.
I have a 1997 GMC Safari van with 175,000 miles on it. One month ago it wouldn't start. It would crank and crank but just not fire. When I turn the key I can hear the fuel pump start. I have other transportation available, so I just tried it a couple of times a day with the same result. Some history: about 5 months ago I had the fuel pump replaced. Finally I gave up and had it towed to the shop that had replaced the fuel pump. After it was unloaded from the flatbed, the mechanic tried to start it and it started normally. Since it started, I had an oil change done and had them check all the connections. Afterwards it started normally. I drove it for a few days with no problem and then one morning the same problem- cranking but not starting. Being stubborn, and with tight finances, I tried to start it every day for a week. Same symptoms. Finally today I had it towed to a different mechanic recommended by a friend. Of course, when it was unloaded from the flatbed it started right up. Any theories?
View 2 RepliesI have an 08 2.4L Sonata with 95000mi. When turning the ignition it will crank and sound like its about to start but won't. I was able to get it to start by pushing the gas pedal a bit when it sounds like it wanted to start. Once started, it ran rough and would stall unless I revved it above 1500 RPM. Still sounded like it occasionally miss fired.
I kept it revved until it reached normal operating temp. When I took my foot slowly off the gas, rpm dropped to about 500-600 and it seemed to pulse . I think engine was raising throttle to keep from stalling. It stalls if I try to put in gear without pressing on gas to raise throttle.
The spark plugs were changed at about 70K mikes. I have not read any codes as the car is stuck in the driveway. Could it be a vacuum leak? I know the Entourages have air intake hose leaks that cause rough idle but with a 6 cyl it still runs. Fuel pump problem?
This Geo Metro 3 cyl engine cranks with spark, but won't start. I replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter and fuel pump relay. The fuel pump does not make a noise. What could it be?
View 12 RepliesEngine cranks but will not start, it kicks back after cranking over for a couple of times i have replaced the crank sensor it has done this once before it kicked back hard enough to knock a tooth off of the flywheel after replacing flywheel and starter it started fine for three months then it kicked back hard enough to break a starter mounting bolt. i replaced bolt had starter checked and replaced again?
View 6 RepliesWhat may have my son fried by reversing the polarity while jumping the battery in his 95 GMC pickup? The smaller wire coming off the + terminal was burned through,so I spliced that. The engine cranks but there is no spark.
View 3 Replies