Lexus LS 2007+ :: Occasional Vibration Feels From Front Left While Braking
Dec 16, 2015
recently acquired an 07 mercury metallic with 118000 one owner and about 8 pages of maintenance all done at Lexus. car is in fantastic shape new tires, and brakes the interior still looks and feels brand new, to date I have changed the oil full synthetic 0W 20, eng and cabin air filters Toyota serviced the transmission changed the plugs with OEM off ebay. Rotated tires, rear diff fluid i couldnt find 75 / 85 anywhere so it wasn't too expensive from Toyota. the front left low beam was flickering so I replaced them I followed cucusdad instructions and it went as he mentioned about an hour per side, although I did take the opportunity to clean the inner fender well and the inside of the tires and rims.T hrough the years we have owned countless cars a couple of brand new ones although this is the first Lexus, I am very handy in the garage and have an understanding of electronics and maintenance upon reading this forum I think folks perhaps want perfect that's impossible as for mentioned this vehicle has been well maintained and obviously personally cared for.
: passanger seat heater/cool inop no light, (wifes only complaint, believe me that's saying a lot)
: aux audio input has intermediate static
: passanger rear door puddle light inop.
: slightly yellowed headlights.
: occasional vibration feels to be from front left while braking although mostly tracks straight ahead
: a very quiet car although I have read and may someday entertain some wind noise application on the triangle piece
None of these anywhere unreasonable on any car with similar miles and production date regardless the manufacture
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I replaced my tires yesterday with Bridgestone Turanza ER33 (245/45/19).
After replacing the tires, there is is an extreme vibration in the front end of the car when braking at highway speeds (60+ mph). Braking at sub 50mph speeds is completely normal. No lights, no vibration while driving. What could be the reason?
Also while removing the lug nut locks, the locks key broke apart (the black piece came out of the key). After like 45mins of trying, finally we got the locks out. I threw them away.
I searched online for regular lug nuts, but couldn't find any beside ebay. The local dealer says I need to wait for 3 weeks to get them from Japan! Where can I get a set of 4 regular lug nuts online?
I'm now running on 4 lug nuts on each wheel. Could this cause a problem? Could the vibration be caused by not having a 5th lug nut in place?
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I've got a 2007 prius with 177k.
I had a noise/vibration from front of the car when I turn left I thought it could be tracking as I knew it was out I've had the tracking done today and now it also vibrates/noise when driving straight and sounds worse when driving straight and the quickly jolting steering wheel to the left , the best way I can describe is it's almost sounds like when driving over chevrons on the motorway rumbly type noise?
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I just got my new 2014 RX350 a few weeks ago. After these weeks drive, I feel the Brake is kind of soft and unsensitive.
When I braking, the first part of the brake pad feels soft and the braking is not very efficient, until I push a lot of the brake pad, the braking becomes confident and efficient.
I used to drive my 2006 Nissan altima , and feels the brake pad is very sensitive. My new lexus makes me a little bit unconfident when following a car in a short distance.
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I've been hearing an occasional popping sound from my left front wheel area of my 2010 Kia Forte when the vehicle accelerates, decelerates, or turns. Took it in to a reputable shop and they said there was nothing wrong. Kept driving it and it got worse. Took it to the dealer and they said my lower control arm and strut are bent (well first they said they were "shot" and it took some prying to figure out what they meant by that).
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When on the highway, there is an occasional scraping/grinding almost a windy noise from the front left of the car. Happens most at high speeds when going over bumps. it's a Toyota matrix 2003 with 163k miles. We're on a car trip and are wondering if we need to address this now or if it can wait a few days.
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I'm getting "popping" noises when braking from my front, drivers side suspension. Past knowledge tells me it's probably an upper control arm / Tie Rod/Swaybar link problem. Everything is nice and tight in there.
Also getting a violent "thumping" noise/feeling constantly when driving from the same side.
I just dropped it off at the dealer, and they are probably going to come back saying the upper control arm needs to be replaced (we will see).
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Our 2007 Grand Caravan with a 3.3 Liter Engine has intermittent vibration which feels similar to driving over rumble bars. It usually occurs between 30-50 mph but sometimes at 70-80 mph as well. Have had the suspension checked and had outer tie rod end replaced. Also had sway bar bushings replaced and front end aligned. We then brought it to transmission shop and had a transmission diagnostic performed. They found no faults with the transmission and thought the engine needed a tune-up which we did with no success. At a recent oil change, we asked for them to test drive it and check again for any suspension problems. They did not notice any vibration during the test drive and found no problems with the suspension.
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I just purchase a new 2012 Lexus LS460 L AWD. Between 35 to 40 MPH I feel a slight vibration in the front end of the car. Once I get above 40 MPH the vibration or wobble goes away. Could it be a tire out of balance? Car was bought new, and currently has 1200 miles on the clock.
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I have had this intermittent clicking noise from the front left wheels. It sounds almost like a rock wedged in the tread but its not. I checked and the tire is clean. I inspected as much as I can see but see nothing abnormal. Any clue what the deal is?
I stared having the noise right after having the front left tire replaced and it seems to happen when the brakes are hot. I don't hear it in the morning or if I let the car cool down and drive it an hour or two later. My brakes are original rotors at 74K miles and the pads are probably in the 45K range . Not sure what the deal is but it drives me crazy when I can hear with the windows down ( I live in AZ its still in the 70s). I had an issue like this with my GS350 but cant remember what fixed it or what the issue was .
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I just bought 07 es350 the outside left front door lock button is jacked up, can I get the rubber separately.
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I have purchased LS 460, 2010 with 21000 miles on it. Dealer said he put new Kumho tires on it. But the power steering feels hard, and is not even as soft as my Honda Pilot 2009. I have made an appointment with Lexus dealership for this concern ( I had the vehicle checked by Lexus store before purchasing.) I have read good reviews about Michelin tires, am wondering perhaps I need better quality tires. Do not know what the dealer is going to recommend.
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I get a pretty severe vibration from the front suspension when braking. Here's what's been replaced:
Rotors
Brake pads
Steering coupler
Where do I go next? LCA/ball joints? Tie rods?
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My 79 Lincoln Town Car vibrates in the front end during hard braking and braking from more than 30-35mph. There is no vibration in the rear, during turning or felt in the wheel. Is this wheel bearings, rotors, steering linkage, tire belts slipping or suspension? She has four wheel disc with early version of anti lock on rear. Brake fluid level is good with no leakage. Tires are near new but sat for long time parked in garage.
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I have a 2007 camry LE with 60,000 miles. About 600 miles prior to the next due oil change, I started seeing a flashing oil pan sign on the left corner of the dashboard while braking (only while braking).
I did not figure out the reason and might have run another 100 miles before taken to the dealer. Dealer found no oil on dipstick. He says the engine might be burning oil and I might end up spending few thousand dollars in that case. He gave me a list of things to do for $1200 unrelated to the incident (break pads etc). I declined and got the oil changed.
He asked me to bring the car back in after 500 miles to check if the oil stays. There has been no leak. Now I have driven 150 miles and the maintenance required sign comes up. I have three questions:
(1) Can this maintenance required sign be related to the incident or related to the regular oil change schedule
(2) Could I have damaged my engine? If so, how to find out
(3) Why could the engine oil run out before the next scheduled maintenance?
Is it possible the technician might have not filled it up? (yesterday I checked the oil level (after 150 miles) and the level is well above the max needed).
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So whenever I brake while reversing (and rarely while moving forwards) I hear this odd grinding noise coming from the front left wheel and can feel it through the brake. Im not a petrol head but I decided to replace a wheel bearing hub myself recently to save money. I am pretty sure I reconnected the anti lock brakes correctly though I doubt it's that. My brakes are good.
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I have a 2007 dodge Dakota with 112K miles. At 105K I had the front brake rotors and pads replaced. The rear brakes were fine. There was a problem with one of the rotors and I returned a week or two later and one, which was warped, was replaced. Ever since that second visit I have had an intermittent vibration from the vehicle. When I brake the whole truck vibrates. And by vibrating, I mean some pretty heavy shaking. It is not the steering wheel vibrating. I took this back to the mechanic where they were unable to find any issues with the brakes. Also, we could not (of course) re-create the issue while it was in the shop. I have not been able to find the pattern. It happens when I am braking at high speeds, but not every time. It also happens at lower speed, but again, not every time.
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I have a 2004 Honda Accord EX (4 cyl) with 102k miles. I bought it brand new and kept it completely in shape with regular service. For the past few months I start getting front end vibration at braking, mostly when slowing from high speeds and without any repair this vibration has now became common at all speed.... my diagnosis - I need to replace to turn disk/rotors....
While I have not remedy the rotor issue yet, I started getting this new vibration at 60 to 80 mph.... Below and above this range of speed i have no vibrations - the car will drive fine. This type of vibration in my experience for front wheel drives is mostly due to balancing or bad tires. so i took the easy way ..... and as i already needed tires well i dished out the dough and replaced all four with Michelin Primacy hoping that it will resolve the speed related vibration.... Well it did not?
I continue to drive as-is without addressing the real problem - coz I'm not sure what is causing the vibration.... now new additional vibration started on acceleration; any time I hit the gas pedal (normal acceleration or kick-down) I get vibration very similar to when a stick shift's gearbox required replacement/repair of the worn out pressure plate's (fingers/springs gets bent or weak) or the thrust bearing needs replacements/repair/grease packing. I'm from the old school stickshift transmission, my knowledge in automatic is very little - I have repaired Acura's automatic transmission before but I don't think repairing once will make me an expert in automatic.
So to summarize my issues or current state:
Issue# 1 front end vibration on braking
Issue# 2 front end vibration 60 to 80 mph speed only
Issue# 3 front end vibration on acceleration at all speed
The list above is in sequential order as I have experienced.
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I recently purchased a used 2006 Ford F-150 (5.4l RWD). I was fully aware of a problem with the brake rotors when I bought the truck from a dealership. They supposedly changed the rotors and the rotors appear to be new...But every time I brake the truck almost flutters in the front end. I haven't noticed vibration while on the highway, only when braking. I am worried because I can fix it I just cant seem to figure out what the problem is.
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I used to wonder if my engine was running when stopped at a light and marvel at the smooth ride of my 2008 LS460L.
Lately I have been feeling a rough idle when stopped and the ride feels jittery on smooth roads.The odd thing is the car idles smoother with the air conditioner running or when it is off. It is very noticeable when off and seems to be apparent when the car is fully warmed up .
The jittery road thing occurs both when the air is on and off. I bought the car CPO and it had the valve recall work performed (saw that was one possible cause).
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2010 RX 350 NAP ... Brand New and OEM where it would apply : Tires (Conti's LX20s)
Brakes / Rotors (had same shake before replacing and did not improve after replacement but maybe I am dealing with a bad caliper here)
Tie Rod Ends
Stab Links
Lower Control Arm Ball Joint
None of which have solved a vibration issue thus far. Strut feels solid and the corner push test had the car settle out in less than 2 bounces.
If car has sat a while the driver front (where the issue lies) feels like a imbalanced tire/bent rim (rotated the wheels just to be sure it didn't follow the wheel/tire) or like a broken belt. The tires are almost brand new and only put them on because I was trying to eliminate the point of issue.
When braking, a light touch to the brake pedal makes a almost light clank sound (like weight shift is causing the clank or perhaps a sign of a bad caliper (although pad wear looks even but didn't have rotors rechecked but even with brand new rotors it was there so I don't feel it's a warped rotor plus the vibration is there even when not applying the brakes.
There is only one control arm and the bushing didn't look cracked beyond the normal surface cracking I have seen on most rubber bushing. The upper support is from the strut so perhaps a bad strut or maybe strut support/cap/bearing?
At a total loss as the local garages cannot find anything wrong. My thought was a bad wheel bearing, although there is not any grinding sound that you typically hear when a hub is going bad.
Could also be the CV Joint but not sure how to tell if that really issue the issue unless I replace all the other parts first (hub, caliper, strut/support/bearing).
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