Lexus LS 2007+ :: Starts Rougher And Audibly Noisier In Idle
Jan 24, 2015
So I have a swb LS with right at 100k miles. drove great and got tires (same brand same model Continentals as the previous set) put on yesterday - right after that the car got noisier (mechanically, not because of the tires).
When I drive over 25-30mph it's like the car rattles...it starts "rougher" and is audibly noisier in idle now. The water bottle in my cup holder visibly shakes and did not do this before yesterday. What's weird I watched the guys install the tires, they never got close to anywhere under the hood..
Just to rule out the possibility, I had the tires remounted and rebalanced but of course same issue. Sounds like a noisy tranny or like I have an aftermarket muffler..have noticed a slight lag in acceleration (oil change at lexus 600 miles ago).
I got new plugs, air filter, coolant flush, diff fluid flush within the past 3 weeks and had no issue with the car until yesterday. My early suspicion is a motor mount or muffler-exhaust related issue?
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Just turned 80k and recently noticed a bit rougher at idle. Other than that all has been fine. Plugs, etc. all original. Engine and VSC Light. Autozone ran the scan which turned up the above stated codes. They are defined as Evaporative emission control system pressure. He said it could be a loose gas cap. Checked it and its tight as a drum.
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12 Santa Fe, I decided I better give it the once over. I found the cabin air filter was pretty bad and that surprised me because I don't drive in dusty areas etc and usually don't drive much at all any more since I got a company car but anyway....to the question: AFTER I changed the filter, making sure the airflow arrow was correct, I noticed that the blower motor is much noisier than before especially when set on the higher fan speeds. The sound is much like a off balance fan with a bit of a thump to it. Could I have dropped some of the dead bugs into the fan when I changed the filter? I was careful and didn't see anything fall into the fan area but the noise is annoying as heck. Is this something that would be covered under Hyundai's warranty? Headed to the Florida Keys Saturday and not looking forward to hearing that racket all the way down there.
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My grandpa's old wood paneled station wagon is sick. The idle seems to be getting rougher and rougher with every time I kill the battery (I've somehow left my headlights on four times in the past two months and needed a jump). It's to a point now where if I don't throw it in neutral at stop lights and keep a tiny bit of gas on the engine it stalls out.
Notes:*When it first gets jumped after being dead, if I stop even for a second, it dies instantly.*While cruising - it is fine. *It idles smoother stopped in neutral than it does stopped and in drive. *It seems a bit rougher with the engine is cold, but still rough and can stall with the engine hot. *Some random times it idles just fine (like for example the first few seconds on start up, and then it sounds like the engine is decreasing in rpm automatically, and then it is rough again).
Could the dying battery and rough idle be related?? The battery guy says "if it starts fine, the battery is fine" (it does start fine, although keeping the radio on for 20 minutes without it running will kill it).
Also other problems with my car in case this has anything to do with it: *I have a leaky tail pipe*my ABS has recently been randomly engaging at low speeds (next problem to work on...)
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I'm at 55k and over the past 2k-3k miles I have noticed my idle getting rougher and rougher when stopped at a light. I took it to my garage and they cleaned the fuel injection system/throttle body/MAF sensor. When I got the car beck it felt a little better but the idle is still pretty rough.
Compared to my wife's '09 Sienna, it is a lot more noticeable that the car is on. I'm in Florida so the AC is on. When I put the car in neutral, the idle become smooth.
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Less than 30 days ago, replaced the Timing Belt, Water Pump, Front Arm Bushings, and Power Steering High Pressure Hose on my 2007 Honda Odyssey.
Today, my wife noticed the engine was noisier than usual, then suddenly became stranded on the roadside when the power steering went out; at the same time a "Check Charging System" error displayed on the panel. The van was within walking distance of home. I got it home and checked the engine, finding the Power Steering Fluid Reservoir to be nearly empty (far lower than the minimum line).
My questions - am I right to think Honda blew it? Does the above scenario sound like they simply forgot to refill the fluid after their repair? Or other? If negligence, what sort of damage may have resulted that I should be on the lookout for? Finally, why is the "Check Charging System" light coming on as a result of this?
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I have a 2010 Santa Fe 2.2 crdi auto with 67k on the clock. It's hard to explain but recently the car is idling much deeper than usual, that typical diesel everything vibrating feel when sat at lights. Its fine when I'm on the move but once i drop below 1000rev and more so when in Drive, not as bad in Neutral. I went over a speed bump the other day and i can swear i felt something change when i went over the bump.
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I had water pump and belt changed by a Toyota Dealer on 2006 4 cyl Camry LE. Now the car idles a little rougher, gas mileage is down by around 20%, and there is some subtle chatter noise.
Before the car would idle quiet (could not hear it from inside car), now it is noisier with a little vibration- both in park and drive. Gas mileage is worse, and I am compensating for winter temps (no snow around). I fill the tank and reset mileage to check. The needle also confirms lower mileage too.
A little noise around belt or pump area but another mechanic said belt tentioner is fine, no need to replace. So what could the dealer have done to cause this? What parts/systems do they operate on? Dealer said car sounds o.k., can't hear anything unusual (of course).Is there anything I can check myself or fix myself? I may try an auto stethoscope when I get one. Just want the old car back. Car has timing chain, no belt.
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So I noticed that my transmission shifts (jerks) a little rougher than the 3 previous Lexi's that I had when shifting into drive or reverse when the car isnt fully warmed up. Is that "normal?" Had 2 ESes and 1 RX and while I do feel a slight lurch, the GS is a bit rough. I usually let the RPM drop to 1k before driving off on warm or cold days.
Separate incident: I recall at one point, I was going reverse, stopped, quickly shifted into drive and gave it some pedal (not full throttle) and felt a noticeable "bang" and violent lurch forward. Could that have hurt the transmission? Is the computer smart enough to prevent damage? I'm thinking this might have been the cause of it.
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I have a 2002 sc430 with 65,000 miles. It seems to be riding rougher than usual and noisy over bumps.
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I recently started noticing that my engine sounds louder and rougher than usual. I have a 2014 GX with about 25K on it. I get about 800-900rpm on idle and about 1800-1900 when cruising 70-75 mph.
Engine sounding louder all of a sudden. No "check engine" sign pops up. I also took the car to the dealer and mechanic rode with me on surface streets and of course , everything looked normal to him.
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Owner of a 2014 350 fsport here.... 15,000 miles ... I noticed on cold starts a slightly rough idle since its gotten colder here recently. After starting the car it'll start fine and everything but then as its warming up the needle sometimes jumps 75-100 rpm. its like someone tapped their foot on the accelerator and let off. no lights or anything and the car runs fine.
Heres the catch... i have a joe z catback and joe z intake with fsport filter, could this possibly be why? because of the airflow ? i also have been using Lucas fuel injector cleaner and lubricant.
Also when i put the car in park after driving, i notice the needle isn't steady, it does move a little maybe 20-50rpm, not sure if this is normal or not because i never really paid attention until now.
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For over a year, I've been experience starting problems with my 2008 Lexus es350.
About every 3 starts or so, it takes my car 3 seconds are so of turning over before the car actually starts. So, 2 out of 3 starts are perfect.
I recently replace my stock batter for the first time (43,000) miles after my car battery died after being parked for only two hours... i thought this might solve the problem, but it hasn't.
Why it is taking my car so long to turn over every couple of starts?
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Past couple days my car has acted strange. Driving last night the check engine starts to flash. Car running smooth. I pull over and restart the car and all is fine. This morning while driving on expressway the slip light flashed 3-4 times and quit. This was on dry surface they car was definitely not losing traction.
Also it'll randomly flash message low key fob which it may be low but it only says it randomly like maybe 1X a month. I know this car is an electronic beast. Do you think my car battery is not supplying enough volts and causing these weird issues?
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I notice it happens driving between 20-30 mph and accelerating very slowly. Rpm around 1500. The tranny changes gears up to to 3rd or 4th gear and the vibration starts. If i accelerate, it goes away. During quick acceleration I never notice this vibration. Also if I drive the car in manual and go thru the gears i never notice the stutter. The problem feels like driving a manual car in a higher gear at a low speed and need to downshift.
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My 2007 es350 77k miles. Heater starts to get warm and then it blows cold air. What could cause this.
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Several months back the maintenance guys at the local dealreship somehow managed to screw the AC compressor which was covered by the warranty and replaced with new one (or so they say). Ever since then the engine noise becomes louder and more audible when I switch the AC.
A simple experiment to compare - let your car slowly crawl (1st gear or D) with your foot off the accelerator and try to make a difference with the AC on and off. When I do this I can clearly hear louder noise from the engine compartment as if the motor is significantly loaded.
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Went to start "Larry", my 1990 Ford F150, the engine cranked but did not start. I switched to the other fuel tank and it started right up. The tank I normally use is the rear one and the pump had been getting noisier while it was running so I knew it would be soon to fail and it made no sounds when I checked it later to see if it would click and whir. I pulled the tank and installed a new pump. To test it I turned the key and heard the pump whir and stop. I turned the key to start and it started and died a couple ti mes. Front tank switched on and the truck started. While running I switched to rear tank and it died. So I have the pump in and it sounds like it runs up to pressure but the fuel is not moving.
Thought maybe I had fuel lines crossed but my manual seems to indicate they are two different sizes so that left me scratching my head... I have years of experience doing all my own wrenching but this is my first in-tank pump replacement. I have assisted a friend on a couple but never really wanted to pull a fuel tank and in my case this job required I remove the tow hitch set up as well. The hand pump for $9 at Harbor Freight was worth every cent as it made moving fuel to front tank a snap. So what the heck is happening? I don't see how a pump could be installed wrong, it is getting power on initial key turn...I should add the only time it did start I presume was because of fuel in the line that the front tank had supplied on previous start ups...
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So I was driving to work this morning and when I'm stopped at a red light my car idled from 800 rpm all the way down to 400 rpm. It literally felt like the car was going to shut off on me.
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With the motor running and the air conditioning on, there is a intermittent ticking noise that comes and goes. It may be the compressor coming on and going off.
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What is the service manual spec for the idle rpm on a 2012 LS (after warm up)? From my scan tool the idle in neutral is 720-730 rpm and in drive it's 780-800. Yes, lower in neutral. I find the car wants to creep forward against the brakes when stopped. The dealer says nothing wrong but has not given me what the idle specs are. Additionally, is the idle adjustable, if so how?
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