I have a 2010 Santa Fe 2.2 crdi auto with 67k on the clock. It's hard to explain but recently the car is idling much deeper than usual, that typical diesel everything vibrating feel when sat at lights. Its fine when I'm on the move but once i drop below 1000rev and more so when in Drive, not as bad in Neutral. I went over a speed bump the other day and i can swear i felt something change when i went over the bump.
View 2 Repliesi have a 2.2 crdi 2009 santa fe and when my foots off the gas pedal it has this strange vibrating hum noise that comes and goes - it doesn't matter if its in Park or Neutral.
You can only hear it inside the cab so im thinking maybe its something up against the firewall but i can't see what?
I have a 2009 with 45,000 miles. It has been idling goofy for a while. Last winter when it was cold it the engine when first started would jump around between 200 - 800rpm when idling. I went and had the fuel system cleaned. It wasn't noticeable when it was warm out and it did not jump around as dramatically on cold starts. Lately it started bouncing on every start from 400rpm-800rpm. It drives fine, just idles bouncy. The other night it lost power while driving. The engine was running but when the accelerator was pushed it would not speed up. It was limping along at 20mph and the engine light on the dash turned on. After sitting for little bit, the engine light was off and drove normally again. I have an apt. for the dealer to look at it next week, but of course I will not be able to recreate the event and there are no error codes.
View 1 RepliesMy santa fe was driving down the street and then it bucked and stopper. The starter would not turn over, nothing. New battery last weekend. Charged it up and the thing started. Even ran with the negative off the battery. It makes a whining noise inside the cab, and idling. Is the altn. going?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2009 Santa fe 3.3L V6 (live Montreal, Canada), since the past week when I start it up, I've noticed that after 1 minute or so while the it is idling my rpm's drop from 1000 to about 650 for split second and it seems to want to stall. The same thing happens when driving for a a small distance when ever I have to make a stop my Santa fe rpm's drop (split second) so low it seems to want to stall. Could it be related to Throttle Sensor Position?
View 2 RepliesSo I have a swb LS with right at 100k miles. drove great and got tires (same brand same model Continentals as the previous set) put on yesterday - right after that the car got noisier (mechanically, not because of the tires).
When I drive over 25-30mph it's like the car rattles...it starts "rougher" and is audibly noisier in idle now. The water bottle in my cup holder visibly shakes and did not do this before yesterday. What's weird I watched the guys install the tires, they never got close to anywhere under the hood..
Just to rule out the possibility, I had the tires remounted and rebalanced but of course same issue. Sounds like a noisy tranny or like I have an aftermarket muffler..have noticed a slight lag in acceleration (oil change at lexus 600 miles ago).
I got new plugs, air filter, coolant flush, diff fluid flush within the past 3 weeks and had no issue with the car until yesterday. My early suspicion is a motor mount or muffler-exhaust related issue?
Back to my 2007 FWD 2.7L Santa Fe. It has no Visors because a prior owner had them break and fall while driving, hitting them in the face. They dangled by the vanity light wires. They tore them out to get the visor out of their face before an accident happened. I priced new visors at $230 a pair plus shipping online. Ouch, a lot for another set of junk visors!
Recently the car stumbles and the ESC and engine light comes on. Had the codes checked then I and surfed the web and found it to likely be the TPS but the only one to fix it would be of course be the dealer. Diagnosis is $125. plus $70 part plus installation and then $105 to reprogram the TPS. I found the part online for $35. I will install it and then take it to the dealer to program it. So $140 instead of $500! I have yet to do that because I took the TB off and cleaned it. It stumbled a few more times and then ran fine for weeks. Its doing it again though once in a while, some days nothing happens others it happens 4 or 5 times. So I will have to get it done sooner than later. I have however found that it wont stumble and die if I put the car in neutral before I come to a stop. It just happens when its in gear, otherwise it runs fine. So until I take it in to replace the TPS I will use that technique.
I will follow up once I have installed the new TPS and had it programmed so you all will know if that took care of it. I have read some installed the TPS and in short time the computer adjusted to where it worked fine but fuel mileage was poor. Being I know how to drive it to keep it from dying at a stop now, I will wait until I get time and $100 to take it to the dealer for programming.
My 2007 Hyundia Santa Fe has an erratic knocking/clicking sound when idling & has for about 6 months or so. Other than the clicking noise it drives just fine. I am wondering if this may be a result of a bad oil change experience I had in 2012. I'll explain ....
When driving home, once the car had warmed up, my oil pressure warning light came on whenever I came to a stop or idling. I thought this was strange but thought maybe it had to do with new oil fill & would go away.
All I knew was I didn't have the problem before the oil change - nor have I ever in all the time I have owned the car - seen the oil pressure light come on and stay on once the car is started. So I brought the car into Hyundai as soon as I could to explain the situation. They opened the oil filter compartment and quickly realized that whoever changed the filter neglected to put back a part that sits on top of the filter that regulates the oil pressure (only a $15 part without which the damage & cost of driving without is potentially huge).
There is more, but I think you get the drift. So, I am wondering if possible damage as a result of that faulty oil change might have something to do with my current problem or is it not possible given the time/km between when that happened and now? The car had just over 80,000 km at the time and currently has aprox 105,000. I have properly maintained the oil etc since that as well as prior to.
Well all is ok now but I am not one to ignore or forget a symptom. After a long drive into the city over Christmas I pulled in to park at my destination. It was idling rough when I stopped. Vibration my be a better adjective but not too bad. It did not feel like ignition etc, not MIL on and putting it in Part did not change it. I shut it off and went inside for the festivities. Started it for the drive back and all was ok.
Whether some bad gas with water got in or something else I don't know as it as above freezing but I got thinking about this dam harmonic balancer pulley may have had on the 3.3L go. I have seen some post in in 2006 as well with this engine in other models. I got some 47L of quality Shell gas later on as well for the drive home days later. Still no issues but... IT HAPPENED AND I DON'T FORGET so I am thinking about it.
Is this a major problem on SF's some went as early as 30k from the owers. I had no other indicators and I doubt there is going to be much to see in the space with a light.
Everything about my '08 2.7l Santa Fe seems/drives fine, but it always has a light clicking noise when idling and maybe even at higher revs. Is a little bit of this clicking normal or does the valve clearance need to be inspected and/or adjusted?
View 3 RepliesFind the ride on the 2013 Elantra kinda bouncy ?....I thought it might be the cheaper OEM tires, but after running winter tires, the ride was still kinda skippy/bouncy over rougher roads.....
View 2 RepliesMy 2007 Sante Fe had problem this week. Took 6 attempts to start engine, then ran smoothly the rest of the night. The check engine light came on while trying to start vehicle.
Next day I changed the spark plugs but now find that the vehicle jerks when idling. Runs fine when going but jerks and bucks at stop lights and stop signs. Just added fuel injection cleaner to see if that may support the situation.
Engine light has come back on again since resetting. I have read several suggestions on internet regarding leak in vacuum line, Coil Pack damage due to faulty hose, even faulty 02 sensor.
I have a cylinder 3 misfire and the vehicle is idling rough so I took it to the deal because I have a power terrain warranty. They're telling me I'll need a new manifold and plenum, coil pack, plugs, and gasket. Could this be accurate? I don't want to get screwed over...
View 9 RepliesI recently started noticing that my engine sounds louder and rougher than usual. I have a 2014 GX with about 25K on it. I get about 800-900rpm on idle and about 1800-1900 when cruising 70-75 mph.
Engine sounding louder all of a sudden. No "check engine" sign pops up. I also took the car to the dealer and mechanic rode with me on surface streets and of course , everything looked normal to him.
Just turned 80k and recently noticed a bit rougher at idle. Other than that all has been fine. Plugs, etc. all original. Engine and VSC Light. Autozone ran the scan which turned up the above stated codes. They are defined as Evaporative emission control system pressure. He said it could be a loose gas cap. Checked it and its tight as a drum.
View 3 RepliesI finally traded in my car and picked up a black 2010 ES 350, CPO, with 33k miles. However, i feel a vibration inside the vehicle while the car is idling (even when it is fully warmed up) and i was wondering if this is normal on these models? I have owned a is250, and ls460 and I didn't really notice anything like it. It almost feels like my ex's toyota camry when idling (not as loud of course). Is there a recall that fixes it? or is this normal with FWD vehicles?
View 11 RepliesI have a 2010 Santa Fe AWD which I suspect the AWD is failing. This is my 3rd viscous coupler (2 previous replacements under warranty). I am now out of warranty and am not willing to replace it again because I am sure it will fail.
I remember a tech had disabled my AWD in the past while waiting for a part to arrive. How to disable the AWD? I do remember it was from underneath the vehicle.
The reason I want to disable it is because it is intermittently delivering power to the rear wheels and it bucks and kicks when accelerating.
I have removed this filter before but last oil change I took it to a garage as it was too cold for my liking to change oil. The cap is now stuck on very tight. This one has a plastic 27 mm lug on top with an arrow clearly pointing clockwise. I am assuming that means to turn clockwise (or reverse thread) to remove it. It simply won't budge.
I read the post where someone broke the plastic top on the housing and I do not want to have that happen. How to confirm that the oil filter top is reverse thread?
So it worked fine, then one day I get in and start it up and I get a "no connection" message. I can change back and forth between XM 1 2 & 3. But I cannot change stations or even scroll to my radio ID.
View 9 RepliesMy Santa Fe 2010 is pulling to the left and the dealer has tried everything to eradicate the fault without success. What might be causing this?
View 4 RepliesI've got about 4300 miles on my '10 Santy SE and the glove box rattles like crazy. And no, it's not something in the glove box that's rattling.
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