Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: 2010 - How To Disable The AWD
May 16, 2015
I have a 2010 Santa Fe AWD which I suspect the AWD is failing. This is my 3rd viscous coupler (2 previous replacements under warranty). I am now out of warranty and am not willing to replace it again because I am sure it will fail.
I remember a tech had disabled my AWD in the past while waiting for a part to arrive. How to disable the AWD? I do remember it was from underneath the vehicle.
The reason I want to disable it is because it is intermittently delivering power to the rear wheels and it bucks and kicks when accelerating.
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2010 Santa Fe 3.5 AWD
Is there a way to temporarily disable the AWD, if one were to want it to stay in 2wd mode? Without looking much further into it, my first guess was looking at one of the fuses, but didn't really find one that would stop the AWD from engaging.
And if there is a method, would it be just as simple and turning it back on, or would there be potential to screw things up and have to go back to the dealer to get it fixed again.
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Santafe 2008, Manual Climate Control Switch. Can i disable AC "turn on" when i switch to front defrost.
in modern Hyundai cars, they can disable this operation by pressing 5 times on Intake (recirculation) button.
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My wife's 2011 v6 Santa Fe has been having issues with the immobilizer. Randomly the vehicle won't start and we have to keep on trying. It stranded her for an hour the other day, I'm ready to drive this PoS off of a cliff.
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Is there any way to disable rear park sensor? I don't like the sound, but I want to disable it, also allowing to enable it again if needed....
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I'm taking a long road trip with my '10 LS. I'd like to pack items on the floor behind the driver's seat but am certain that the "auto away" function that moves the seat all the way back when you turn off the car will crush my items. I checked my manual and my Carista app but nothing about disabling this feature. How to do this?
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I have removed this filter before but last oil change I took it to a garage as it was too cold for my liking to change oil. The cap is now stuck on very tight. This one has a plastic 27 mm lug on top with an arrow clearly pointing clockwise. I am assuming that means to turn clockwise (or reverse thread) to remove it. It simply won't budge.
I read the post where someone broke the plastic top on the housing and I do not want to have that happen. How to confirm that the oil filter top is reverse thread?
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So it worked fine, then one day I get in and start it up and I get a "no connection" message. I can change back and forth between XM 1 2 & 3. But I cannot change stations or even scroll to my radio ID.
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My Santa Fe 2010 is pulling to the left and the dealer has tried everything to eradicate the fault without success. What might be causing this?
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I've got about 4300 miles on my '10 Santy SE and the glove box rattles like crazy. And no, it's not something in the glove box that's rattling.
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My 2010 Sante Fe started blowing the BCM 1 fuse.The vehicle will not even crank over. Its at the dealer for the 3rd time time this week. 1st time thought it was a faulty fuse, 2nd time replaced the drivers door lock actuator.
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I have a 2010 Santa Fe 2.2 crdi auto with 67k on the clock. It's hard to explain but recently the car is idling much deeper than usual, that typical diesel everything vibrating feel when sat at lights. Its fine when I'm on the move but once i drop below 1000rev and more so when in Drive, not as bad in Neutral. I went over a speed bump the other day and i can swear i felt something change when i went over the bump.
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My santa fe just recently quit starting. Thought it was a bad battery and I replaced it but it didn't work. When I try to start the relay clicks like low voltage but I am measuring the battery voltage while trying to start and it doesn't drop. After trying to start the instrument lights go out and the key chime quits beeping. Remote key locks work but the horn doesn't sound if I click lock twice. I have measured the battery voltage from Battery plus the the frame and the voltage is good during the start attempt. If I measure the battery voltage from battery plus to the engine as ground there is no voltage. I have tried to jumper the engine block to the frame and still the relay just clicks during start.
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Recently my 2010 Santa Fe's remote start key fob is not acknowledging a response for any function on it and there is no blue light activating behind rear view mirror. I figure it has to be something fairly simple since it worked just fine last week. I have two remotes and when buttons are pushed I'm getting bright blue lights on both key fobs so I doubt if both batteries are bad, the factory key fob for door locks still works fine. I've read other posts and I'm aware that there is not many fans of the remote start feature. Its been -30 here in MB for far too long and I need this feature to work for me.
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We purchased a new 2010 Santa Fe Limited in October of last year, and as it stands today, we've put about 19,000km's on the vehicle (about 12,000 miles for my American friends). About 14,000km's in, we started noticing a vibration from the rear under acceleration. When you reached cruising speed (regardless of the speed), the vibration would go away, but would appear under acceleration. What was more alarming was that at slow speeds when making sharp left-hand turns (turning into the driveway, doing a u-turn, pulling into a parking spot, etc), there would occasionally be a loud bang from the rear end. The first time it happened, we thought that we had run over something... actually not but it sure sounded like it!
We took the vehicle into the dealership, and after an inspection they found a rock in one of the rear springs. They removed the rock, applied the TSB to place covers over the springs, test-drove the vehicle, and said the issue was resolved.
The next morning, I was heading out of town to pick up a friend, and experienced a loud bang when I pulled into my buddies driveway. Problem was NOT solved. Called Hyundai again, and made another service appointment. This time with the requirement of having a tech come with me for a test drive.
I was able to reproduce the vibration, which really shocked the tech. At the same time, I was also able to duplicate the loud bang when making sharp turns (I had actually caused it to happen twice when driving around the dealership, but I was alone in the vehicle at the time!), when he concluded that there was probably some binding going on in the drive train. They took the vehicle in, and after looking at it, determined that the coupler in the drive train was defective, and needed to be replaced. They didn't have the part in stock, so they had to order it in; my concern was that the vehicle was unsafe, but they assured me it would be fine to drive until the part came in. I went on a weekend trip with the vehicle, and experienced some pretty severe binding when pulling into parking spots (no bangs, but imagine driving through a lake of molasses) - I had to really give it gas to get it moving into the parking spot - not nice, especially considering what might have happened had it 'unbound' while under throttle...it was certainly not safe, but I survived.
After THREE weeks, the part finally arrived, and was installed yesterday. I'm happy to announce that the vibration has ceased, and I can only assume that the loud bang is gone as well (although I couldn't duplicate that on demand, so I'll never know for sure that it's gone). The Tech did mention that it was a new version of the part, so they just didn't install a new part, it was an upgraded new part.
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2010 Santa Fe v6, AWD, 95K miles. New struts at 65K, new swaybar endlinks shortly after that.
VERY reliable overall (knock wood).
Last 5K miles or so Ive started noticing a "clickpop" under certain conditions. It sounds like the swaybar endlinks did when they started going - BUT it is different.
Let me explain:
The sound is not caused by road unevenness, or bumps at all. When the struts or swaybar endlinks go, its pretty easy to tell - as you can hit an uneven patch of road, or a certain type of bump and make it happen.
This "clickpop" sounds as if it is coming from just about under the brake pedal, on the firewall side of things. (Engine/undercarriage in that area).
I can make it do it by accelerating up to a "cruising along" speed - i.e. little throttle input (but not coasting down) and then either add throttle quickly, or back off totally. "Clickpop"
I have also been able to make it do it at a stop light - if the road is inclined (stopped uphill) and I add throttle then get off it. Clickpop. Its getting worse pretty noticeably in the past week.
Looking at things - all that makes sense to me is the motor mounts. There are apparently two - one on each side, and two "anti roll" mounts one front and back. If the anti roll ones were bad (esp the one on the back) it would seem to fit.
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My santa fe was pulling to the passenger side and i got it aligned again at shop but after that was done its still pulling to the right side. What could be a cause of that? it only has 17 000 km.
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My 2010 Santa Fe has had a AC problem since one week of ownership - when it is raining and I drive the car more than 10-15 mins - the AC stops blowing cool air. My dealer has seen the problem first hand - but has no solution for it. Last fall they replaced a faulty accuator - wasn't able to test it our since was fall... but doing it again since the warm weather has started.
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The Crusie control has a habit of not always operating. Sometimes it will sometimes it wont. I have tried switching off the ignition and restarting without success.
On occasions after not working for 30 or 40 miles it will start working again. Difficult to get the dealer to do anything as they cannot replicate the fault.
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I recently noticed that both reverse lights on my wife's 2010 Santa Fe are dead.
It's odd that both bulbs would burn out at the same time. So I checked them and they're both good. The bulbs are not burnt out.
What should I check next?
I looked up the fuses in the owner manual, checked those, and everything looks good there. There is a relay as well. I swapped that with a similar relay in the fuse box, but that made no difference either.
I suspect it's the reverse switch on the transmission. Ours is a manual transmission. How to locate and access that reverse switch?
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Problem I have been noticing with my 2010 v6 Santa Fe.
I first noticed a vibration that appears to come from the drive train late last winter and only seems to happen on colder mornings. It comes across like I am driving on a rough road. If I am simply rolling without a lot of acceleration there is no vibration, but once I step on the gas and add power the vibration starts and will continue until I let off the gas. It is not an alignment issue as that has already been checked and eliminated as a cause.
Once the vehicle warms up, the problem goes away. This makes it very tough to demonstrate the problem as by the time I drive to the dealer the problem is gone. Guess Ill need to pick a cold day and leave it there overnight so they can see the problem. Had a very similar issue years ago on my old Nissan Pathfinder which was eventually traced to a the 4 wheel hub system.
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