Lexus RC F 2015+ :: In Manual Mode Hard To Upshift When In 2nd Gear?
Feb 13, 2016
Driving in normal mode and the transmission in auto. Once the car gets up to temp, (usually at a stop), move the gear selector to manual mode. If you punch it, I have not issues shifting from 1st to 2nd gear, but sometimes, the up shift paddle will need to be hit multiple times in 2nd before the car will shift to 3rd.
It seems to only happen the first time I go from auto mode to manual mode during a drive cycle. It happens on my car and another car I test drove.
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I have only driven my car a handful of times, but I noticed the past two times, that it sticks in 5th gear during the time that the oil temperature finally gets above the 1/4 mark until it finally settles.
It doesn't stick before reaching the quarter mark, and as far as I can tell, it doesn't stick in auto mode. This doesn't sound like something that should be normal, but what say you?
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I was driving along today and my dash lit up light a Christmas tree. I got PCS, ABS, Brake and BSM lights and I was locked out of first gear in manual mode. Other than the lights and having to driving in auto mode, the car drove fine. When I got home I inspected the rear suspension and saw that the driver's side speed sensor's rubber shielding where it attaches to control arm was damaged. It was not completely severed, but there was a hole and some exposed copper wiring. I had SPC rear control arms and RSR coilovers installed and the car was lowered about 1.3 inches in rear. I was able to use extra copper wire and electrical tape to temporarily fix the problem. After all the wires where connected and shielded with electrical tape, I got zero lights when I started the car.
I'm not sure how it happened. Maybe the wire was damaged during install or it was pinched due to car being lowered. Whatever the case, make sure the wire is secured in a way to avoid being pinched during suspension travel. I ordered the new wire and will attempt to replace. Looks pretty straight forward except the wire goes into the interior of the car somewhere. I read that I will have to remove rear seats. If so, that should be pretty easy. Is there something I'm missing? Will any of the rear interior need to be removed? How to do this?
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how to use the steptronic on the RC , it's going to shift by itself or i had to press the shifted pedal to bring up the gear , before i had a BMW so usually it autoshift on DS mode , what about the shifting on the RC.
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Driving home today I was cruising along hwy about 50mph. I threw the shifter over to the manual mode and noticed immediately that it must put it into a lower gear than I was in when I was in automatic bc the rpm jumped up a little higher. I think it put me in 4th or 5th?? I put it back in auto mode and rpms went back to normal. I'm guessing it's the normal way it operates?
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New Sonata owner. Got myself a 2015 Ultimate. Is there much difference in acceleration between "Sports Mode", and just running the car in manual mode (shiftronic)?
I know my Elantra used to have a huge acceleration bonus if I ran it in manual mode. Not sure if that caries true here.
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Everything was fine, running PHP 200X tune, switched to PHP 65 tow and took the 5er toy hauler on vacation last month. Pulled a lot of mountains,etc. While camping, took the truck unloaded to get fuel. Engaged tow/haul going down a mountain to utilize engine braking and the tunes "exhaust brake" and the trans slammed HARD into first gear. This happened twice. I refrained from using tow/haul. Heading home 450 miles with the 5er, I utilized tow/haul again (had it on the whole time, just like on the way down) and the truck and trans were flawless. Get home, switch back to 200X, and I'd say within a week or so, began having trans issues. Loaded stock tune, reset KAM with SCT, disconnected batteries with headlight switch on for a couple days, reloaded 200X and drove it for a couple days. No change.
It felt like the trans was slipping, not "going" like it should when on the throttle, and would sometimes not want to upshift. It would just act "weird". This would usually occur under 40 - 70% throttle (I rarely ever get on it more than that), but sometimes less. Never got any check engine light or tow/haul flashing.
So today I finally did what I should have weeks ago, took off work and ran the truck to a shop.
- First the tech hooked it up to the scanner. No codes.
- Test drove it. He said it drove fine for him. It was fine for me as well, driving it from my house to the shop (I didn't "get on" the throttle though).
- He monitored the voltage from the trans temp sensor. He said the voltage was fine, didn't spike or do anything crazy. He didn't seem 100% positive on this but, said it starts out at 5V cold and voltage should drop as the temp increases, which it did. However, the temp started out at 300 and then dropped to 200 as he was driving. #1 the temp isn't (shouldn't be) that high, and #2 it should increase while driving not drop. The temp shown on my Torque Pro app hit 149 on the way to the shop and 168 on the way home (90 degrees outside). So he seemed to think there was something screwy there.
- While driving it, his scanner showed a trans overheat (over temp/high temp, whatever) code, but no check engine light or tow/haul flash.
- Drove it home. Trans was fine until I got on it a bit and then it acted funny again. But just driving normal with light throttle it is fine.
* Thinking about trying a new temp sensor.
* Could it be in limp mode which is why it feels like it is slipping, i.e. doesn't have the normal power I'm used to?
* When the tow/haul light flashes, is it the tow/haul light on the instrument cluster? That's the only thing that lights up when I'm in T/H. Where you push the button never lights up. Assumed it was just white lettering and not a light.
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I have the 12 Accent GL Auto, I have about 161,000 km, and recently say 3 months I've been hearing/feeling this click click noise come from under the car whenever I am in "manual" mode in 1st gear coming from a stop, now I`m 99% sure its not the brakes releasing because I just replaced both my caliper's in the rear and pads and rotors all the way around, And I know this sound because I've had the problem (twice) were my brakes stick so I'm very familiar with that sound this is something different, I want to say transmission because it only does this in 1st gear manual mode, but i know where the transmission is on this car, and this sound isn't coming from where the transmission is, more like under the firewall ( where the trans would be on a RWD car).
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Got in the car today and moved the gear selector into the manual shift mode. Usually there is no play forwards or backwards. Today there was about 3/8 of an inch travel forward before the spring tension started. I'm taking the car in tomorrow to have the console latch replaced but was wondering why encountered this anomaly in the shift mechanism?
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About 1500 miles on my GTI and I have been noticing on upshifts, just as I release the clutch, I get a short grunt from the transmission. It's very brief, but consistent in lower gears. it's not terribly loud (may not hear it with the radio on but definitely will with the radio off).
It doesn't seem to impact the drive at all so I'm not stressing about it but I will want it looked at if it poses a risk to the drivetrain... Never had anything like it with my last stick ('02 e46).
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On my mk7 manual, I'm getting a slight growly noise when I shift upwards, mostly noticeable from 1 to 2, a bit less from 2 to 3, and almost none from there up. Nothing when I downshift.
It's almost like a DSG fart, but much subtler. Happens for like a split second, just when I release the clutch, as if it the engine is revving up right when the clutch is engaging. But I know it's not engine related, because my RPM remains steady. Can it be the clutch slipping a bit before it fully locks? Not even sure if that's even a thing.
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Just curious if there are any other 2010 owners with any difficulty shifting gears in their manual transmission camrys? I noticed during my test drive that I grinded my way into 2nd once... I thought it might have just been my nervousness with a new clutch at the time. However, I've since put 300 miles on the car and I still have trouble putting it into second gear on a daily basis. Sometimes it grinds a bit, and sometimes it catches or a half second before it pops in. All the gears OTHER than 2nd gear go in like butter as you would expect with a new transmission. I'm not new to a clutch... this is at least my 4th car with a stick, so I don't think I'm doing anything out of the ordinary when shifting.
It reminds me of some older (100,000+ mile Nissan) cars I've had in the past... the syncromesh was wearing out and it would grind going into second or third, so I put in some RedLine MTL and got a little more life out of the transmission... but there shouldn't be a need for that kind of thing on a car with less than 1000 miles on it?!
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I have a 2010 accent blue model with stick shift. been fine for 50k miles. Lately i have noticed an issue where i am in first gear and then when i push clutch in to go into second, the lever won't budge. it does eventually go in but it just isn't like it used to be. it happens say about 25% of the time. Since at higher rpms it won't do it but normal rpms it will.
Also, i just had a new short block installed, perhaps something is binding? If I sit in the car, stopped, i can shift into and out of all the gears perfectly. Maybe my 1st gear synchros are going?
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I'm driving home from work around 10:15pm and driving around 45mph; I switch my car from the manual mode to automatic and all of a sudden my car skids 40 feet and just stops. No lights on the dash, just completely stops and locks up the rear tires. I am in the middle of the road at this point and try to restart the car and put it into drive and the car just jolts forward and makes a grinding noise. I was still in shock at the moment, and a cop pulls behind me and asks me what is going on and I tell him the situation. He says he needs to call a tow truck to move the car. I brought it home and now I don't know what to do. The car is a lexus 2007 gs350 awd with about 104k miles, I don't think the car should just stop while driving 45 mph and come to a skidding stop.
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2014 Grand Cherokee Laredo. Wondering why the hvac acts like it is in recirculate mode with the A/C button pushed in manual mode. Have window cracked to force smoke and odors out of cabin. On vent mode it pushes air right out, in A/C mode it acts like recirculate is partially on and in recirculate mode it draws outside air in like you would expect recirculate to do. Trying to decide if I have something wrong or the nature of the beast. My GM vehicles do not act like this.
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I haven't owned a manual transmission in a while so I need to know if this is normal. When shifting into any gear I have to force the shifter into gear with quite a bit of force. Almost like it's hitting something and then going into gear. There's no screeching or grinding. It does the same thing when pulling out of gear.
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2015 RCF - does eco light in the dash in Normal mode does anything beside telling you your habit ? Does it change the throttle response?> if yes how do i turn it off ?
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I have a 2012 ford f350 SRW 4x4 with the 6.7L. Problem I have just started to have. When going downhill in tow haul the truck at first will hold you back then all of a sudden it starts to up shift at 20 mph it reaches 6th gear pretty quick. I talked to the dealer and they suggested I was pushing the shift buttons, but I am not. They told me to drive it till next week and then they will see if there are any codes in it.
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Took a little trip today in our 01 v10 2wd. Spent about 45 minutes on the interstate. At 1 point I had kicked it down out of od to get out around a slow semi. The trans seamed to upshift real hard. I thought it was odd but didnt give it much more thought. After getting off the interstate we traveled on divided 4 lane highway. Every time we pulled off from a stop the trans would upshift hard from 1-2 and 2-3, rest of the shifts felt fine. We stopped (shut off and went inside) to pick up lunch and the hard shift was really worrying me.
After our stop we continued on with the trip. The trans shifted flawlessly the rest of the day. OD light didn't flash and MIL did not come on. Bought in February with 168k, now has 169k. Did all services including trans flush with Merc 5 fluid when I got it. I know you cant fix what isn't broke but if I can do some thing now before it poops out all together I want to try. Not towing, just passengers...
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I have a 1998 Windstar which just stopped shifting from first to second or third. I still have 1st and Reverse gear but no 2nd or 3rd. Feels like vehicle goes to neutral.
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Six speed GTI Manual for those that dont know its a 2.0 TSI. Fifth gear grinds all day long when i downshift or upshift. They have given me a service car to drive around in, until its fixed. 25k on the OD and a 5 year mechanical warranty, i have 2 years left on the rest. Third gear doesn't go in easily, its like i miss third gear all the damn time, obviously its not right when the rpm's go above 3k.
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