Lexus RX 2004-09 :: 2006 - Key Stuck Inside Ignition / Security System Turns On And Off
Nov 26, 2015
I have a Lexus RX 330 2006. Two days ago my key couldn't start the car he stuck inside the ignition. I ordered a locksmith guy and he open the auto meter so he can get to the ignition. Now the ignition working but when I try to start the car the car doesn't start. The security system turn on and off , it's seem like the car doesn't recognize the key, the guy also make a new key and program the car but still the car is not charging, I also order mechanics to see if somethings wrong with the car and he didn't see any problem . I think the car shut down and I need professional guy who know how to program the car...
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It appears that the security system is somehow shut down. None of buttons on wireless FOB [main key] is working to open the door etc. even though the red indicator lights up. If I use the key, it opens the doors fine. The powerdoor controls inside the car are working fine. I did notice that security light on the dashboard is not blinking anymore.
The car was idle for three-four weeks and it didn't start so I gave a jump with portable unit. Could that do any damage to fuse etc.?
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My 2008 Camry XLE(No after market systems) has locked out my dad several times now when he's parked and left the vehicle. We replaced his keyless remote dongle battery with a new one just in case. The light that blinks a red key on the dash to indicate the key is nearby turns solid red. I've yet to be the one locked out, but can't imagine what he'd do to lock it out as he's mechanically and electronically savvy. Can't reproduce the problem.
The only way we can get it to unlock the inhibitor is to jump the car battery. The dealer claims that we should only have to walk away from the vehicle out of range of the remote and back into range for the inhibitor to "untrip". I don't believe them because we replaced the car battery one time and it tripped the system and we had to get a jump even then to unlock it.
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Have a 2007 GX 470 with 70,000 Miles. Recently we have had problems with the ignition getting stuck. Key will go in, but, will not turn. Happens randomly and unpredictably. Will start after a period of time. Sometimes 30 minutes, sometimes several hours. My not happen for a few weeks or sometimes 2 or 3 times a week. Neither Lexus or Toyota claims to have heard of this problem.
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'04 RX330: Starting about a year ago, occasionally when inserting the ignition key it wouldn't turn to start. Take key out try again and it would start. Progressively, it seems to be requiring more and more in/out cycles to get the key to turn. It's like the transponder is not recognizing the key FOB. I have two keys, one is a master and other is a sub key, both have the problem. What has to be done to correct it? I'm afraid the dealer will just change some expensive ignition part when there's an easier fix.
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A year ago, I had a problem starting my car (a 2004 Chevrolet Impala, about 120,000 miles). When I put the key in the ignition, the engine wouldn't turn. I knew there wasn't a problem with the battery because my lights, radio, etc. were still operating fine. Instead, I got a bright flashing "SECURITY" message on the front panel of the car. After a few minutes pacing around the parking lot, I returned to my car and it started without a problem. I checked online, and several car forums and articles claimed that this was a common problem in 2004 Chevrolet Impalas: some faulty wiring in the security system would stop the car from turning on because it thought you were trying to hot-wire the vehicle.
After the first incident, I didn't encounter this problem again until recently. Within the last 2 weeks, this problem has become more frequent, occurring maybe 2-3 times per week. The car won't start and I'll get a flashing "SECURITY" message. If I wait a while (between 5 to 30 minutes), the car will eventually start. I finally decided to take my car into a Chevrolet dealership to get the problem fixed. I described the problem to the mechanic; she guessed that the cause was associated with the ignition cylinder....
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I have my toyota pirus 2008 and i'm facing problem with it electric door locks. it's Security light flashing on the dash and the electric door locks won't unlock from the inside of the car but will lock. so i'm looking for a locking for locksmith who can solve it asap.
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I have done 2 searches but came up with nothing regarding a 2010 LS 460L. My security system indicator lights are flashing 24/7 regardless of the car being locked or not. Page 113 is not very clear about how to shut them off. I played with so many buttons yesterday after we got home with the car I may have triggered something without even knowing it. I do not recall that they were doing that yesterday when we picked the car up.
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120K miles - love the car
CEL, skid, VSC trac and VSC off lights on - dealer said the code was p2441 Secondary Air Injection System switch stuck. Dealer said I needed to replace air injection system and that the cel would not go off until it was repaired. They completed the 120K service and when I picked it up, all the warning lights were off. I have driven it a couple of hundred miles since then and still no lights. Does that mean it could have been something else???? I love the car, but I need tires and brakes and now repair charges for a 2005 car with 120K.
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This is the original key that I've used since the car was new. This morning I stopped the car, shifted into PARK, and turned the key to shutoff the engine and accessories. The key turned completely as it should, but the steering wheel did not lock and the key will not come out. I messed with it a bit but with no luck. An usher walking by got in and tried it a few times, but no luck. The car will start and run fine, I just can't get the key out of the ignition.
This also means the key fob won't lock the doors, so I have to leave the key in the ignition and the doors are unlocked. GREAT!! I have an appointment with the dealership on Thursday of this week, until then I'm driving my other car and leaving the Sonata in the garage.
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My Lexus RX350, 2007 model refused to start, the security light does not turn off.
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Ignition coils on Hyundai Accent (2011) getting stuck in suction? Or looking for engine vacuum pathway explanation?
I previously (~6 months ago) replaced one ignition coil that had a misfire. I currently have a check engine light with "No Codes" on code reader. My engine is rough idling with very weak acceleration. This occurred when trying to accelerate up a hill. I was looking to inspect the coil resistance and noticed the replaced coil has a pretty strong suction holding it in.
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I have a 2006 Jeep Liberty Sport. The key is stuck in the ignition. It will still start, but when I go to turn, it's like the key doesn't want to release those last few steps. Which is as safety issue because my car is sitting ready to be stolen. When I called the dealer they wanted to charge me, just to figure out what is going on with it plus labor and parts to fix it.
This is a known issue with the '06 Jeeps and Chrysler is not wanting to do anything about it. At this point, I just need the key out of the ignition. The dealer said they would have to pull the ignition system apart to get the key out which would cause the car not run at all. We tried tapping the key to get it to release and it hasn't done it yet. It did this once before and we where able to jiggle the key and it released but it is not working now.
Again it is a 2006 Jeep Liberty v6 3.7 Liter Engine it is now sitting at about 78000 miles happened the first time at about 50-55000 miles.
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Brief as possible. Key stuck in ignition. Will come out when battery disconnected. Lift gate stopped working at same time. Believe that car does not sense it is in park. Acts like if the car is in neutral or in gear, in that if you turn the car off in neutral or in gear, the key wont come out of the ignition and the liftgate wont open either. The shifter is not stuck, rear hatch window opens and the car drives normally. Not sure if it is a switch or a sensor.
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2005 GX470.After returning home my wife parked the GX470 in the garage. She returned 30 minutes later and noticed the headlights were on. She also noticed the immoblizer light was blinking.
We always keep the headlights in the "auto" position. Headlights staying on is a little strange. but I recall the lights staying on once or twice before. Immoblizer light flashing has never happened.
I inserted the key and turned to start the car and the light went out and the GX started fine. Once I remove the key, the light starts blinking again. I tried this with both keys to make sure it wasn't a transponder issue--all keys did the same as above.
I checked battery voltage--12.4v. Charging--13.6v at idle Some light corrosion around the negative cable but not too bad. cleaned anyway Wife did say she came out of work and noticed that two different car alarms were going off that were right next to her car. Possible kids messing around. Maybe our car was going off as well?
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Car works perfectly otherwise. Good battery, a yellow top less than a year old. Made sure lights weren't on, took in and out of park, tried starting and restarting moving in and out of park. Turned steering wheel -- nothing seems to make a difference. What we can do to diagnose?
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My wife has an 09 Accent and a couple of days ago we were exiting the highway. As I stepped on the accelerator I noticed the engine struggle and stumble followed by the flashing MEL. I pulled into a parking lot and shut the car off and plugged the reader in to get the code but the computer already erased the code and the MEL light was extinguished and it ran fine the rest of the day. The following day my wife was driving it on the highway when the MEL light came back on but there was no associated engine roughness. I had her plug in the reader to get the code for me and it came up with P302 - misfire detected in the #2 cylinder. She didn't notice any engine roughness so I told her to drive to work but stay off the highway. She went out at lunch and the MEL light was off.
I did some research on here and the web and found the accent is known for going through ignition coils as well as a possible design flaw with the ignition wire harness that could cause it to rub and become frayed. I ordered the wire harness from our local Hyundai dealer and got an ignition coil from autozone. I also figured that I might as well get 4 spark plugs and replace them while I was at it. I got the plastic cover off and removed the 10mm bolt from the #2 ignition coil but it was wedged in there and would not budge. The coils from 1, 3, and 4 popped out with no issues. I ended up using almost a half a can of PB Blaster and 2 hours before the coil finally came out. The problem that I'm now looking at is some of the plastic from the coil remained stuck to the metal in the holder. Is there anything that I can use to clean out that metal cylinder?
After examining the spark plug from the #2 cylinder I could tell it was fouled and needed replacing but my concern is now that that new coil will get stuck in much the same manner. I'm pretty sure that the coils were WELL past due for replacement as I'm not sure when they, with the spark plugs, were replaced last. I'm pretty sure it was before my wife and I got together so that's more than the recommended 60k replacement intervals. I've ordered 3 more ignition coils to replace all of them and reset the 60k replacement interval. Since I replaced the one coil and 4 spark plugs the problem seems to have been corrected and the car is running great.
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The key is stuck. It doesn't turn all the way back to the off position and the steering wheel will not lock. The shifter will still move when I turn the key and press the brakes. The car drives fine. Just can't take the key out of the ignition. This escape has the shifter on the steering column.
Solved: There is a tiny switch (like the one in the pic) that tells the car when the shifter is in the park position. It snaps into position in a little plastic slot. It had popped out of its slot and could not be actuated. It has 3 wires attached to it. I snapped it back into its slot and it works fine now.
Including a pic of it in its proper position. Hard to see it but that's how it looks when it is correct. Pic was taken with my phone stuck down behind it because I could not see it. So this view is as if you were inside the steering column looking back toward the driver seat.
It is located in the steering column near the top. The top cover on the steering column pops off and you can see it without taking the steering column loose, and with some skill and luck it can be snapped back into its slot. Also before inserting the switch, move the shifter down to another position so the little arm will not be in the way.
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I've been having this issue randomly with my car. Usually after I turned off the car with Climate system on it will come back on with car starting, but sometime it would not.
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My key got stuck in the ignition and I was unable to start it. The owners' manual shows a small hole to the left of the key slot which is poked with a paper clip to release the key. At some point the ignition in my tdi was replaced and no small hole is present. A knowledgeable tow truck operator/mechanic coaxed the key from the ignition and the tdi started when the key was returned to the ignition and turned. What is the proper way to remove a stuck key from an ignition without the little hole. I was reluctant to force it out. The ignition currently in my '04 tdi has a raised bar to the left of the key slot which I was unable to depress.
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The truck seems to continue to crank sometimes even after I let the key go. Kinda like it's having a difficult time starting and NEEDS to be cranked a wee bit more and takes over for me. Is this an ignition issue that I can (need) to address or is it normal. I have ZERO experience with a newer vehicle nor a Ford truck.
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