My Lexus Rx350 (2007) having problem starting the car when the engine is cold or switch off more than 1-2 hours. I need to crank the car at least 2-3 times to get the engine run. Once the engine run, i have no problem restarting the car with a single crack.
View 5 RepliesHaving issues starting the car when it's cold. Sometimes it takes me 2 or 3 tries to crank the car.
View 14 RepliesA cold engine crank will turnover and start normally. But stop to run and errand or grab lunch...and the warm 302 2 barrel engine will turn over very sluggishly, lke the battery is dying. If you wait until the engine is cool, an easy start is assured but that takes hours! A local repair shop has rebuilt the carb, the battery & cables are new, and the starter works fine when engine is cold. My local repair shop is out of suggestions. It seems to work a little to hold the gas pedal down on the floor for a warm engine start....but engine still turns over sluggishly when trying to start when warm. Now If I drive it.....I just drive it around town a bit then back home ...unless I stay several hours somewhere while the engine cools....but that's not fun. It is a convertible, fun to drive...and this problem needs to be solved.
View 14 RepliesOkay so my 2003 Jetta GLI normally starts without a problem. But it seems like whenever it gets cold (below about 40) it doesn't even try to start. I turn the key and nothing happens, the engine doesn't crank. All the lights turn on like normal and they're not dim so I don't think it's the battery. It'll still start if I roll-start it, but there isn't any sort of hill for a few miles. Normally once it warms up later in the day it'll start up.
View 3 RepliesMy grandma has a '07 XLE 4cyl with around 65K on it.
Every once and awhile, completely intermittent, no consistency whatsoever it takes 4 seconds or so to get the car to actually start. Normally 1-2 seconds.
Was going to change plugs. See that you have to replace the whole pump/strainer assy. in the tank, no stand-alone filter.
No DTC's or any other lights on. Wondering about replacing the whole pump/strainer assy. will fix it or what the deal is. Can't order it online at Advance Auto parts, and called their store and the Denso one they show isn't even listed as available at the factory. Hope you don't need an OEM one, sure that's not cheap.
There wasn't even a crank. Held the ignition for a couple of seconds and it starts. The next day I had the battery and the alternator checked, they were both good. Another couple days passed and it did not want to start again. Got it scanned no codes come up. I changed the ignition switch and still I have the same problem with no crank.
View 8 Repliesi have a 96 ranger with a 2.3l engine sometimes it will start right up and sometimes it has to crank 4 or 5 times to start i just gave it a tuneup and changed the oil and filter. should i run sea foam through the oil system,it sat for about seven years and i need to convert the idiot gauge to a real gauge.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2000 Explorer W/4.0 SOHC engine. With summer nearly over and fall on the way, I need to figure out what is going on with my engine. This problem has been going on for the past 2 years. As the outdoor temperatures get cooler, the harder it is to start and keep the engine running. This starts happening around 65 ambient temperature, and gets worse as the temps drop. By 30, I can barely keep the engine running.
Odd thing is, all I have to do if the engine starts is, keep my foot on the pedal to keep the engine around 2000RPM, put it in gear and start driving. After about a mile or two, the engine runs normally, and will do so the rest of the day. So far I have cleaned the air flow sensor, replaced the IAC, replaced all the injector "O" rings, and cussed a lot. I smoke tested the engine and the only vacuum leak is a very small one at the EGR valve.
The customer brought in her 130,000 mile 2000 Mercury Grand Marquis complaining that the starter would click several times as she turned the key again and again, before it would make the the engine crank like crazy. I saw that the positive battery cable was badly corroded, and replaced the aftermarket end with a new aftermarket end. Everything was nice and clean. No difference. I tested the battery for load voltage with my good old Sun VAT-60. It tested good, sufficient voltage after 15 seconds under a 100 amp load. I removed the fuel pump relay so that the car would not stay running for long, and then would not start when the starter did engage. It drew 120 amps while cranking. That's within spec for a fully warm engine.
I think what she has is a bad solenoid atop the starter, or perhaps a bad spot on the commutator that moves slightly with each click until the brushes are in another position. Then it will turn OK.
I think a new starter is needed. Am I on the right track? I don't want to crawl under it unless I have to, and she doesn't have money for me to make a mistake.
So ive had my celica for about a year now and recently it was having problems starting, i had to try and start it 2-3 times before actually turning on and running perfectly, now it sometimes doesnt even start. The only thing i can think of is my fuel pump isnt building enough pressure to start my car, my solenoid is going bad, or (could be a stroke of luck) one time i was pushing on the fuses in the fuses box and it start more then 15 times in a row left it for about 15 minutes and would not start again.
View 4 RepliesI was working on trailer lights and now no trailer lights and relays click but eng no crank. Batt has 12volts.
View 1 RepliesRevo stage 2 --1.8t ... For the past few days I have tried to figure this issue out I am having with my 337. The car takes 2 or 3 times to start from being cold. Once its started it has no issue it drives awesome, pulls hard no codes when vag com'd. Can start it up anytime with ease for the rest of the day. Tried doing to solve:
-I have pretty new coilpacks---FSI- they are ok
-Spark plugs are 3 months old --checked those
-Checked Battery and its all normal and no issue
-Cleaned the throttle body = No change
-Installed new CTS yesturday (green) < no change
-Cleaned the MaF = NO change in start up but car runs way smoother
-Put in new Filter= No major change
-Did the Crank sensor under a month ago (Bosch)
I have a few more things on my list to check :
1. Fuel pump relay
2. Fuel Pressure Reg
3. ECU relay/ check immobilizer
4. Fuel Pump
The truck has been putting off a high squeal every time I crank the engine and when the A/C compressor is engaging.
My first idea was the accessory belt slipping on the compressor when its clutch kicked in. So I replaced the belt. The sound has dissipated a bit but is still there on initial start up and periodically while the A/C is on in the truck. If I turn the A/C button in the cab off the sound quits altogether.
My next idea is the A/C clutch. I prefer to work on my cars myself so if you can just replace the clutch without doing the whole compressor? The compressor works amazing and the truck gets ice cold in the TX heat so if I can keep it while just doing the clutch that would be amazing.
Is this a warm stall issue and if so what is the actual solution to it ?
- Car is warm it will stall out at times after start . Giving it some gas will save it from stalling
- When dead cold it will have a very sluggish start
New plugs and coils. New fuel pump fuel filter & regulator . New crank sensor . Throttle body cleaned as well as maf. evap leaks all sealed up too. battery is good too
Very frustrating. Only solution would be to leave it at a shop for at least two hours so they could do live scans. But I'd rather not pay two hours of labor for nothing.
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Removing fuel injectors-coolant contamination.. How is this done? I need to see if they are any good-or clean/replace them-after I accidentally left the clip off the hose running out of the thermostat housing when I drained my coolant last week and the first time I drove, coolant leaked onto the top of the engine/manifold depressions, getting onto and into the fuel injectors.
I tried to clean it up as much as possible the first time(finally got it going) but still a few days later the truck at times cranks but does not start-hot or cold. I assume my idiocy is the cause or maybe it is just coincidence of something else? From what I read from my symptoms it could also be the fuel pump relay, pressure regulator, coolant temp sensor, crank sensor.. among other things. My fuel pump is 1.5 years old, so hopefully that isnt it. Have the injectors possibly been contaminated to where I should just replace them?
So I've been sick for the past few days and my GX has been sitting in the driveway. I finally started it up on Sunday to run some errands and the CEL came on and the engine was running really rough. So I took it up to the dealership and had them pull the codes. It was showing a problem with the knock sensor.
I had to leave it until today so they could diag it further and see what the real problem was. Turns out I have a freaking rat in my engine and it ate my wiring harness. The service tech told me he jumped back when he took off the engine cover and saw an 8 inch rat scurry away. It is now sitting out in the lot until they get the rat out because they don't want it loose in the garage.
Wifes F150 was turned off while she went shopping when she came out it would not start would crank but would not run. Got it home hooked up my scanner, had no codes, but the Service Engine Soon was illuminated on dash. Just wondering if this has anything to do with the PCM. Has a 4.6L engine, 2X4.
View 5 RepliesI have owned my 2008 Rx 400 h for just over two months now and at the risk of sounding dense, am I right in assuming that when you are coasting along without the engine running, the heater will start to blow cold air? Everything works fine until you lift your foot off the pedal. This is my first Lexus/Toyota and hybrid so I'm not totally au fait with how it should be working.
View 2 RepliesFirst: 2007 GX470 with 63k miles
On some 'cold' starts (and I use that term very loosely, because it never really drops below 40 degrees here), when the engine has sat overnight, and when I shift into reverse (never Drive, just Reverse) and stand on the brake I get a knock. I don't hear it in Park. Not valve clatter like on my german cars while the oil gets routed to the lifters, but instead a loud, startling deep-down knock that sounds like BAMBAMBAMBAMBAM. Then it goes away. Put it in neutral and the revs rise and it's gone. Put it in Drive and nothing there. Just lasts for maybe 5-10 seconds, but is it loud. BAMBAMBAMBAM! Like someone hitting a 2x4 on the block or tranny housing.
Once I'm past that 5-10 seconds it won't do it again all day. Just after a "cold soak". And perhaps 5-10% of the time.
There is a lot of examples with this motor of what some call "piston slap". Don't know if I have it - and I suppose it might get worse (to the point where I hear it) when the engine is cold and under load (in gear), but I don't get it in Drive. Just Reverse.
I have a 2007 F150 with a 5.4. I am having an issue with my A/C and more.
Here are the symptoms:
1) A/C doesn't blow cold, at times.
2) Compressor not coming on, according to mechanic.
3) Engine sounds like a freight train, at times. Like on a super cold day and it has to work hard.
4) Very poor fuel mileage since this started.
I took it to a shop, and they said it was the engine cooling fan that would not come on. So I replaced it. Same issue. I then took it back and was told there is a wiring problem. After 3 days they couldn't find it. I needed my truck back and dropped it off again. Then they said it was the A/C compressor, maybe. They wanted to try it and then see what happened. I told them no way.
Temperature, according to the gauge is good. Noise comes and goes. Not dependent on anything. Weather, temperature, car heated up or dead cold. Just comes and goes.
On cold start or when the cars been cool down for a hour or so, a huge cloud of smoke will come out. it smells plastic burn than a rich gas smell.
So far this is what i did, a oil change, add a no smoke oil treatment, replaced with an oem pcv valve (this fix my rx300 smoking issue years ago)
Video 1, Friday at 3pm. the temperature is ~60 degrees, less smoke after a pcv changed
Video 2, Friday after noon at 6p.m. ~50 degrees
Video 3, Next day 10 a.m. ~48 degrees
In person it looks white smoke, but the camera captures it more blue smoke. I have been constantly monitoring my levels and oil and coolants are just normal.