Camry :: 2007 XLE - Long Crank Times To Get The Car To Actually Start
Aug 2, 2013
My grandma has a '07 XLE 4cyl with around 65K on it.
Every once and awhile, completely intermittent, no consistency whatsoever it takes 4 seconds or so to get the car to actually start. Normally 1-2 seconds.
Was going to change plugs. See that you have to replace the whole pump/strainer assy. in the tank, no stand-alone filter.
No DTC's or any other lights on. Wondering about replacing the whole pump/strainer assy. will fix it or what the deal is. Can't order it online at Advance Auto parts, and called their store and the Denso one they show isn't even listed as available at the factory. Hope you don't need an OEM one, sure that's not cheap.
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So my recently purchased 2005 f350 has an abnormal long crank. I searched all the internet and everything pointed to STC fitting. Well I knew I had some other things I wanted to knock out so I ended up buying an update kit from sinister diesel. It included an updated fitting, new degas cap, updared turbo oil feed and return lines, blue spring update, and "dummy" tubes or something like that.
During the last few days I have removed the turbo, and finally got to the hpop. As I was removing the turbo I thought I might have the updated lines as there was no braided area in the feed tube. Sure enough I pulled the hpop and I have the one piece fitting. So now that I have wasted all this time removing all this stuff for no reason I still don't know what is causing my long crank. I am going to probably install the new fitting and lines anyway but where do I go from here?
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So I recently went out to start my car one morning and it decided to just crank and not start. A few days prior to that I was on my way into work and it shut off on me 4 times but started back up every time, it was only 5 degrees Fahrenheit that morning and I was under 1/4 tank, so just thinking I got some bad fuel or moisture in there I ignored it and went on about my business until it didn't start that morning. Since then I've searched on here and found a couple people that had similar issues and I tried what they had done to fix theirs, this is everything from trying the second key and on.
There is no power at the fuel pump except for the sending unit portion, and I did check with someone cranking the engine, it just has no power... So I thought, relay...well apparently they don't have a fuel pump relay on this car? It's all controlled by the ECU? I decided to hook up my scanner to see if there were any codes getting thrown, this would show if it was CPS or the like, nope, no codes at all showed up. I'm completely lost at this point, and have resorted to buying a subscription to all data as I used them in the past and had luck, well this time they've got nothing for me that I've found useful. I'm about to send the car off to the first person that's willing to pay a fair price. Glad it's warm enough to get the summer car out!
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Went on a long drive today. 800+ miles. Stopped to fill up around 500 in. Attempted to turn the car back on and it would just crank and not start. This has actually been ongoing for the past 2 years, but only when I take long trips like these. Got it to start after putting my foot on the pedal a little bit, but would idle roughly and die shortly after. Got it going again, and it ran fine once I started going after that.
Decided to check my scangauge, and it had a pending code of P2196. From what I understand according to AllData, the O2 sensor is running rich, which seems odd to me as I'm not burning more gas than usual (Achieved 33mpg according to hand calculations).
Starting to bug me that it's doing this. Car has 113k miles. All maintenance is caught up on the car. Battery is 3 years old (Not sure if that's a factor at all in this).
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We have a 2012 Nissan Altima. There have been 3 times that it would not start -all times were after a long drive and a trip to the coast! Battery is fine. Nissan dealership could find nothing wrong. Why this is happening ? Is it possible this is a censor /salt problem?
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I have about 3400 miles on my Sonata 2.0T, and I have experienced a long crank with (puttering in between), and does not start, twice occurrence thus far. I have no warning lights, no lamps (SES) that stay on afterward, nothing at all. I have had to press the "start/stop" button again to make it stop, then let it sit for a few seconds press the button again, re-cranks, and starts this time. I know that if take to the dealer they will not find anything wrong since most concerns they have to duplicate in order to diagnose. The SES light is not on, so I know we have no fault codes to go by. Sounds as if the fuel pump is crapping out, or no spark is being generated.
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I brought the car home last night and shut it off. This morning went out and engine will crank but doesn't show any signs of fuel or spark. Removed one plug and grounded it to block while someone cranked it. No spark. I dumped a little fuel in the cylinder just to see if I could get it to cough or something, but nothing. I tried looking for blown fuses under hood and under dash but I haven't noticed anything out of the ordinary. I pulled out all relays and tapped them and reinstalled. I tried disconnecting the battery to reset ecu and that didn't work either. There are some relays marked that I don't recognize.
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I own a really nice original ' 89 Chrysler Lebaron coupe with the 2.5 N/A, throttle body injection and 3 speed automatic. It has just over 100k miles. The car sits in the garage all the time and is not used during the winter months and is never used in the salt season. I do "try" to start it sometimes just to keep the battery up. The problem is when I want to start it, especially after sitting for a while, often it will crank and crank but won't start. It's acting like it has no gas. When I take the aircleaner lid off and dump a little gas in, it fires up just fine then runs perfect after that. Even after it has been used as a daily car after that, when I shut it off, sometimes it will start just fine, other times it won't, then I have to use the gas can again. It has a mind of it's own. When you think it will restart, sometimes it won't. I've been keeping a little gas can in the trunk in case it does happen at odd times. With the gas can, it will always restart. I've talked to a few shops about this, they have no idea what might do this. Naturally, when I brought it in to show it to them, it would ALWAYS restart for them. Getting rid of this car is not an option for me, I love the car, except for that part of it.
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So my 2002 ford explorer with the 4.0 L V6, has been cranking along time before it starts. I thought i had this figured out already, i put a brand new fuel pump in it from the ford dealer. That seemed to work, but the problem came back.
Especially when it is cold, it cranks a lot longer than normal to start. and when it does start RMPS go way up briefly and come back down. Seems to only act up when its cold out, say 35 degrees and lower.
So the remote start wont work because it only cranks for a few seconds and then stops. it tries this three times and it gives up. i go out there to start it and cranks for 10 seconds it seems like, sometimes i have to feather the fuel pedal.
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There wasn't even a crank. Held the ignition for a couple of seconds and it starts. The next day I had the battery and the alternator checked, they were both good. Another couple days passed and it did not want to start again. Got it scanned no codes come up. I changed the ignition switch and still I have the same problem with no crank.
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1990 Volvo 760 4 cyl. Turbo. Drove the car to work, everything fine. Got off work, car wouldn't start. Cranked but wouldn't start. It was getting spark. Changed the fuel filter, it ran perfect for a month. Drove it to town a month later, shut it off, then trying to start it, would crank and crank eventually start but run real rough. We got it home....barely.
Replaced the fuel filter again. Still wouldn't run right.
Replaced the fuel pressure regulator. Same problem.
Replaced the throttle positioning switch. Same problem. Replaced the air control valve. same problem.
Found out that this car has an on board diagnostic doo hickey.
Found out how to check each sensor and component individually.
All sensors and components are working. Checked both fuel pumps and they are working. If I unplug the air flow sensor and the air control valve sensor, I can start the car using starter fluid and it will idle all day with out missing a lick.If I plug in either one of the sensors, it will kill it immediately.I don’t know what else to do to make this machine run.
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My problem is on my gf's 99 Passat. Its the 1.8t and runs and drives fine. The abs/brake light is blinking which from reading seems common and I have to send that module out to be rebuilt. The issue I am having right now is every once and a while it wont start. It will crank and crank and finally start like a minute later. She's convinced pumping the gas pedal works but I don't think its fuel related at all as it smells flooded when it finally starts. Ive replaced the plugs, air filter and still does same thing.
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Car does not have to get wet, just be in humid air. Problem going on 2 years now, mechanics tried disconnecting a (?) ground/sensor from computer, major tune up, new fuel pump. Until recently, it just took keeping it in crank position for a long time for it to finally start. Recently, in crank position for 30 seconds does nothing and has me worried I'm doing damage. In dry weather, it starts first time every time.
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I have a early 99 f250 super duty 7.3l and it's giving me fits. about a month ago the truck started to do a hot no start. drove truck for about a hour. Shut it off and half hour later no start. Let it sit over night and would start with long crank.
Changed CPS no change. Pulled tuner and set back to stock. No change.
Changed fuel filter, no change.
After reading forums changed IPR and truck started and ran great. About a week ago back to the same problem. Battery's are about 2 months old. Oil change and oil filter a month ago.
Checked the hpop reservoir and its 1/2 from the top.
Checked fuel bowl and it has fuel. no sign of oil in it.
Drained bowl and watch bowl fill back up. seems to fill quickly.
Pulled passside valve cover to check for bad orings while cranking.
Every thing seems fine. have not done driver side yet. used FORSCAN and ran buzzed test on injectors and they all buzzed what seems to be about the same. ran test couple of times to make sure. this morning I ran a live scan while cranking and this is what I got right before it started. ICP 660.6psi, IPR 64.84% and RPMs 227. took 8.86 seconds to start. after work scaned again for hot no start and this what I got. ICP 292.9psi, IPR 55.86%. and RPMS 203. unplug ICP and no change. still will not start. one thing I did notice when plugging ICP back in I looked down in side at the pins and can see what seems to be bubbling around one of the pins. the pig tail has just the slights sign of oil.
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My Lexus Rx350 (2007) having problem starting the car when the engine is cold or switch off more than 1-2 hours. I need to crank the car at least 2-3 times to get the engine run. Once the engine run, i have no problem restarting the car with a single crack.
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i have a 96 ranger with a 2.3l engine sometimes it will start right up and sometimes it has to crank 4 or 5 times to start i just gave it a tuneup and changed the oil and filter. should i run sea foam through the oil system,it sat for about seven years and i need to convert the idiot gauge to a real gauge.
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Long crank to start hot and cold. Acts like missing when its cold tho and when it warms up it runs ok but it will set code weafher warm or cold and u can turn it out with scan tool and drive and it wont come back till restarted again...
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Removed my oil rail to replace standpipes/dummies (04 Wavy rail) and now I have huge crank times to start. This is after the initial Huge crank to get it started. Do I have air in the system, or did I bugger something. I did the whole deal very careful. I lifted the rail up very carefully, pipes removed. I lined up the rail nipples with the injectors and evenly pressed it back in place, and then inserted my dummies/standpipe. Tightened the rail to 120 inch lbs then the dummies/standpipe to 60 ft lb. I did my son's '06 a month ago with no troubles. (didn't remove rails though). Once running it sounds perfect, turn it off and re-start and it's a long crank (30 seconds or more). I have not monitored ICP/IPR while running, will try that today.
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I need to get my oil cooler replaced but that's besides the fact. I drove it on a little trip the other night ran fine. Then went to start it after i was done with what i was doing turned it over didn't start the first time. Cycled the key and cranked it again. Started up drove it back home on the high way no spitting or sputters got off the high way it started idling like crap and shaking as i accelerated but made it home. Let it sit over night and day (was at work) got home to start it and it fired up no problem but still idled funny.
Revved it a couple times and it seemed to clear up so i took it around the block. Floored it and it ran like it was suppose to then go to the other side of the block floored it again and it had no power and sounded like it was running on 4 cylinders. Pulled it back in the driveway idled weird and cleared up again went down the street and floored it ran like a scaled ape and then just died. tried cranking it over and nothing finally got it to start after holding the ignition on ran and then died again. Got it pushed home and decided to fire again after a VERY long crank and it idled for a couple minutes very horrible and died on its own and hasn't started since.
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As the title says I am suddenly having a long crank when starting and low oil pressure when when warm (above approximately 100 degrees). IPR goes to 85% when cranking. Stored codes were P2290 and P2291. Other symptoms are low power and what sounds like a power steering pump with low oil whine and low power. (It is not power steering related however, I checked.) I pulled the oil filter and cranked engine and filter bowl filled in less than 10 seconds.
Oil did have a fair bit of air bubbles. Oil has 5000 miles and is Motorcraft 10w30 diesel. I have not added any since the last change. I do not have the new style pump so it's not the STC fitting. What my issue is? I do have AE if any other info is required. Particulars are in sig. The searches I have done combined with the mileage I have lead me to either the low pressure pump is failing, or the high pressure pump has lost the ball bearing out of the side.
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i just picked up an '07 Camry XLE and every time I start the car (push start button) the horn gives me 3 quick honks. Same happens with the remote start. How to turn that off? Besides just not starting the car
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