Camry :: 2007 4 Cyl Crank But Won't Start - Not Show Any Signs Of Fuel Or Spark
Jul 24, 2012
I brought the car home last night and shut it off. This morning went out and engine will crank but doesn't show any signs of fuel or spark. Removed one plug and grounded it to block while someone cranked it. No spark. I dumped a little fuel in the cylinder just to see if I could get it to cough or something, but nothing. I tried looking for blown fuses under hood and under dash but I haven't noticed anything out of the ordinary. I pulled out all relays and tapped them and reinstalled. I tried disconnecting the battery to reset ecu and that didn't work either. There are some relays marked that I don't recognize.
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Working on my buddys 2003 camry, wont start, has air and spark and not getting fuel. replaced fuel pump already. If you hit it with a quite a bit of starting fluid it will fire up for a few moments and then die out, its got half tank of gas. The whole start of this is he ran out of gas and since then wont start.
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Coilpacks get 12V during ACESS, 9V when cranking. Crank sensor gets 10V, and VAG reads RPMs on crank, but no spark, no fuel.
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2002 X w/ V10..
Drove to walmart the other day. Ran Great. Put a new battery in my spare key and tried it but anti-theft light came on. thought maybe battery was in backwards so turned it around and tried again still nothing. So tried original key and would not start. It would crank but not fire. (found a post stating that it was part of the anti-theft system to keep from just trying different keys) I let it sit for a little while and it started.
Drove home put new locking hubs in the front and took it for a drive. Started fine. Wife the next day went to work with it ran great. When she went to leave, it would not start. after about an hour it started for her and drove home with out issue. Next day I went out and it started for me first try. Then it started to just crank and never fire. After a while it started and I was able to start it a couple of times with out a problem then it stopped again. Since then I have not been able to get it to start.
I say I have no spark only cause I have tried to use starting fluid to at least get it to fire but nothing.. It doesn't sound like the fuel pump is kicking in either. Is there something that would shut these systems down that I am over looking..
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So I recently went out to start my car one morning and it decided to just crank and not start. A few days prior to that I was on my way into work and it shut off on me 4 times but started back up every time, it was only 5 degrees Fahrenheit that morning and I was under 1/4 tank, so just thinking I got some bad fuel or moisture in there I ignored it and went on about my business until it didn't start that morning. Since then I've searched on here and found a couple people that had similar issues and I tried what they had done to fix theirs, this is everything from trying the second key and on.
There is no power at the fuel pump except for the sending unit portion, and I did check with someone cranking the engine, it just has no power... So I thought, relay...well apparently they don't have a fuel pump relay on this car? It's all controlled by the ECU? I decided to hook up my scanner to see if there were any codes getting thrown, this would show if it was CPS or the like, nope, no codes at all showed up. I'm completely lost at this point, and have resorted to buying a subscription to all data as I used them in the past and had luck, well this time they've got nothing for me that I've found useful. I'm about to send the car off to the first person that's willing to pay a fair price. Glad it's warm enough to get the summer car out!
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My grandma has a '07 XLE 4cyl with around 65K on it.
Every once and awhile, completely intermittent, no consistency whatsoever it takes 4 seconds or so to get the car to actually start. Normally 1-2 seconds.
Was going to change plugs. See that you have to replace the whole pump/strainer assy. in the tank, no stand-alone filter.
No DTC's or any other lights on. Wondering about replacing the whole pump/strainer assy. will fix it or what the deal is. Can't order it online at Advance Auto parts, and called their store and the Denso one they show isn't even listed as available at the factory. Hope you don't need an OEM one, sure that's not cheap.
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My Truck : 1999 Ford F-150 Extended Cab 4x4 5.4L V8
So the other day I was driving the truck and it just dies on me. Tried starting but it just cranked and cranked. Got it pulled over to a parking lot and then tried to start and I got it to run again. Died a couple mins later uo the road and it will not start at all anymore. I got it towed to my driveway and I've started diagnosing some things.
I dropped the tank thinking it was a pump I replaced awhile back. The pump wasn't running but jumped to conclusions and took it back to the auto parts store. They bench tested and it works fine. I checked for voltage at the pump connector. NOTHING. So I'm not getting power to Fuel pump. Then I checked the fuse and relay for the fuel pump. Everything was okay.
I did some research and decided to check for spark. NO SPARK. Another thing I noticed the other day was that the odometer is displaying all dashes. So I'm really unsure on what to really troubleshoot. I am going back to the truck tomorrow to check a few other things. I'm not sure if the Theft light is blinking or not so I will check that tomorrow and get back to you.
What to check? Any other relays or fuses besides the fuel pump? What about any modules to check like PCM, GEM, etc. Or I've heard the crankshaft sensor could be an issue.
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I have a 1995 Toyota Camry, 4 Cylinder that has just started stalling when I step on the gas after a complete stop. After that, the car will not start for over an hour and will last only a few miles after that. this has happened 3 times so far. I have changed out the fuel pump but that did not do the trick.
I also noticed that when it was cold this past winter and I was on the highway the temperature would decrease a lot. But regular city driving the temperature seemed fine. Well now that it's warm again, the car shuts off at just above the halfway mark. So this morning I changed out the Thermostat and now it's running hotter than ever, the heat does not work at all, and the car will not start. (it started up fine after the thermostat install but the engine temp was high and heat was not blowing warm) I'm hoping it's not a bigger issue.
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So driving on the highway my car died. It would crank but not start. Got it towed. This is what I have done to troubleshoot.
1. Swap ECUs. The car should start for a second and shut off because the car doesnt match with the ECU. Still just crank and no start.
2. Fuel pump still primes when I open the door. I also hear a weird air leaking noise when I reconnect the battery, but I think it comes from the fuel pressure regulator (which I think is normal).
3. Checked for current at the ecu wires, wasn't sure what to look for but it was getting numbers.
4. Battery had 12.1 volts running through it (Haynes said 12.5 but is that really much of a difference?
5. Checked spark plugs for spark. Pretty sure we did it right, but there was still no spark. We tried multiple times.
6. Scan car, get code P01314 twice (ECM error).
7. Try to clear codes, says Comm error.
Why am I not getting spark? and why is the ECU error occurring, because we tested with a new ecu, and there was still no start, not even for a second like there should be.
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1996 Ford F150 5.0 ... New battery, new alternator, new starter, new coil, dis cap good and rotor is good. New plugs and wires. Ignition mod tested good.
Drove a mile from my house and lost power to my engine. Lights and radio work. Just sits there and cranks and cranks. I'm not getting spark from the coil. Don't know a lot about engines.
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I have a 2002 F150 5.4L (VIN-L) that has been sitting in the driveway since February. I have been a mechanic for 30 years for large commercial trucks, and my own truck has me stumped. I'm sure I've forgotten something but I'll try to list everything I have tried so far. It started with crank no start, no check engine light, checked for trouble codes got a trouble code for the CHT(cylinder head temperature) sensor.
- Replaced the CHT sensor. Cleared codes.
- Dash lights up fine, shows mileage, and anti-theft is not flashing while cranking.
- Fuel Pump does not seem make any sounds. Hit the tank with a hammer. Nothing.
- A little fuel comes out of the schrader valve on the fuel rail when I push on it. I have not checked it with a pressure gauge.
- Attempted to start with ether, nothing, so I'm assuming no spark.
- Fuel pump inertia switch isn't triggered.
- Checked several ground connections to the frame and checked ground connections in the PCM harness. All have less than 5 ohm resistance.
- Unplugged and plugged back in cam shaft sensor.
- Checked voltage on the TPS(throttle position sensor) I'm unsure about the results, if the TPS was bad wouldn't it just idle funny and/or stall?
Fuel Pump and PCM relays in the underhood fuse block appear to be good. All other fuses and relays appear to be good. I have been swapping the relays with one I think is good, although. Searched all over for additional relays, and found 3 inside the cab behind the passenger air-bag. Can't seem to find anything in the Haynes/Chilton manual that lists what they do. They are about half the size of the fuel pump relay.
Manually grounded the fuel pump relay, relay clicks but I don't hear a buzz from the fuel pump. Id like to run 12V to the fuel pump directly to see if that's my issue, but I'm not sure where to connect it without frying something important.
I bought the alldata.com DIY guide for my truck and it hasn't worked much. I have read extensively about others with similar problems and I just don't know what to do next. My main question here is, if the fuel pump is bad, would that stop the spark plugs from working? I'd rather not replace the fuel pump without being absolutely sure.
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I have a 2007 Camry SE 4C. 104K miles on the clock and no issues until now. The car has never been in the shop. I do my own work, which amounts to oil changes and I replaced the pads a few weeks ago. Yeah over 100k on the original pads and still at 30%.
About a month ago I took a freeway drive and the low fuel light came on. I was in the middle of no where so no gas stations nearby. After about ten minutes of driving at 60mph the check engine light came on. Shortly thereafter I reached a gas station and filled up. The check engine light went out. Got home and did a visual check and didn't see anything. Yesterday the low fuel light came on. This morning my 36 month battery was acting weak after 21 months. The car barely started. Got to the gas station and filled up and the battery seems to be stronger now. My theory is the low fuel light/circuitry is causing the problem.
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2000 Maxima - I just changed the head gaskets, got it back together and no start, no spark, solid security light and linking error to ecu. 50 miles to a nissan dealer. I have 12v to the injectors but no ground, I just checked spark last night and have none. I tried all three keys, will no battery for a month or two cause key security issues? I hate to drag it to Nissan and have them tell me I need a new ecu for a few thousand dollars. Does a security issue cause a linking issue?
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My 97 toyota tacoma will not start. have fuel, changed plugs, has spark. still will not start.
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i have a 1991 s10 2.5 liter that will not start. i have spark, and fuel to the injector but nothing from the injector. how do i determine if the injector is bad or something is not telling it to spray?
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After replacing the intake manifold gasket for the second time, the truck would not start. Thought for sure it was my putting the distributor in wrong. After reviewing the forums, I am sure it is installed correctly. I have spark but no start. Engine cranks over nicely, but acts like it needs fuel. I hooked up a fuel gauge, turned on the key and get 56PSI. Lower than the 60 required. The pressure then slowly goes to 50 PSI. I pinched off the return hose and had the same readings. Pretty sure I need to replace the fuel pump. Is there anything else I need to check. I replaced the fuel pump a couple years ago with a Delphi unit. Maybe this is just a weak link for these trucks. My truck has a little over 100,000 miles on it.
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I have a perplexing problem and I'm at wits end trying to figure it out. I have an 03 GTI 1.8t 20th. The car has been running great until today when I replaced a few bolts with the front bumper and replaced a motor mount bolt on the passenger side mount. Everything was great until I did the work on it. I figured I had bumped the cam position sensor so I swapped it out for a new one and nothing still. I have verified I have spark and I definitely have fuel as it keeps drenching the spark plugs. I have cleaned the spark plugs and tried starting only for the car to violently sputter and misfire. No codes are being recorded and nothing else has been touched.
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Freshly rebuilt 2.8 V6
Car turns over but is not getting spark or fuel. The timing is good (checked multiple times, and I have done numerous TBs on these engines). Compression is good.
The car has sat for ~2 months. It broke the timing belt (and bent or broke multiple valves), so I know it had both spark and fuel before this.
I have gone through and double checked every connection and everything is connected and seated properly. I used a stethoscope to listen to the injectors and there is no click during cranking, and using an extra plug I checked spark and there is none. I also hooked up my inductive timing light and it doesn't sense a spark.
I have VAG-COM and there are no fault codes. I have checked all fuses and they are good. If I do the tests on VAG-COM I can make the injectors cycle, but they don't cycle when cranking. I tested the crank position sensor (and tried a new one) and it tested good (and the new one made no difference). Using VAG-COM, I confirmed that it does sense the engine RPM when cranking. The battery voltage stays above 12V during cranking as well.
A couple other tidbits of info:
The fuel pump does work (and comes on when cranking... confirmed by disconnecting the hose and pumping fuel into a can)
When cranking for a few seconds, the display says STOP and flashes the oil light (I'm assuming because it is cranking at such low RPM)
The Check engine light and EPC light come on when the key is put in the on position and turn off during cranking (like they should)
The immobilizer light comes on for a few seconds as well, but it doesn't flash like it would if it was immobilizing the engine.
After looking at wiring diagrams, it appears that the ignition coils and the fuel injectors both run off of the same relay, but I am unsure which one or even if I am right about that. But assuming I am correct about that, wouldn't the injectors not fire during the test if that was bad?
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I have 06 F150 5.4L with a no start condition. The truck comes from another shop with no improvement. This is whats done so far, replaced plugs, checked the fuel control module 100% ok, we have fuel pressure at the rail, we have injector pulse ( niod light ), we have spark and we have a good battery. We tore down the timing cover because of the sound of the engine turning over like it was out of time when cranking.
We did find a tensioner totally destroyed so we replaced the timing as put it back together and replaced the oil pressure switch because we get this "low oil pressure" in the info center every time, we also get gray/black puffs of smoke out the tailpipe when turning over. So to sum it up we have spark, fuel, and battery and still nothing! We even flashed the ECU and still no fire/no start.
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The truck just quit having any throttle control which seemed to be ignition. Way old stuff needed replacing so I went after that. Installed complete new distributer, coil and spark control module. No good. Found spark using checker but not sure what this should really look like. While checking compression found a lot of fuel coming out of number 6 cylinder and nothing out of any of the others. Compression in all cylinders is around 120. Distributor timing at number 1 TDC looks good. I am thinking some fuel system related issue but cannot figure out why so much fuel comes out of the number 6 cylinder.
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Was driving normal and my 2004 r32 died. It felt just like it ran out of gas. Fuel pump was not making any noise. I replaced fuel pump relay and now i can here the fuel pump making noise. Pulled the fuel pump line off and fuel is coming out the line. So now i checked for spark and have none. I have 12 volts at the coils. I ohmed out the crank sensor and have .777 k ohms. I also checked codes with generic snap-on scanner and found no codes.
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