Lexus RX 2004-09 :: Pulsation While Braking Sometimes When Going Over 45mph
Dec 20, 2014
What could cause this? Its coming from the rear end. It seems to happen if I am going over 45mph and apply the brakes. It feels like a warped rotor, but if braking from 40mph and below, it is smooth. Both rear wheel bearings have been replaced. Tires are new. There was a vibration while cruising between 40&50mph, which was "cured" by the new tires... While replacing the wheel bearing, I noticed some play in the right rear axle at the joint closest to the wheel.
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I just purchased a 04 GX 470 the braking system seems to have a lot of travel and are very sponge. I live in MO and it pasted the state inspection. I check fluid and it is good. It has the electronic braking and 4 wheel disk. Is this normal or should I seek Lexis dealer service. I also have a GS430 and the breaks are right there.
Added info: I do not feel any pulsating in the pedal but there is a pulsation in the SUV when it coming to a stop. Feels as if the rotors may need to be turned but the pulsation is not hard it is smooth.
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I have 04 rx330 with 70 k miles. Lately I started to feel grinding sensation and pulsation on applying the brakes initially it is fine then it will be felt specially when the car comes to near stop
A mechanic looked at it and said bad rotor I replaced with new rotors and pads still doing the same thing, as I inspected the old rotors and pads there was no visible defects.
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I change my own pads as a good lifetime warranty with free replacement from Autozone is great!
But with the Tribeca... I changed the front rotors just like all my other cars over the years.. and now there is pretty severe pulsation when trying to brake... I've checked the rotors and pad replacement twice now and all looks perfect.
I searched this pulsation issue and saw on a Jaquar site that you can ruin the ABS on some cars when you don't drain excess fluid as you push the piston back to install then new thicker pads..
Is this an issue for B9? I don't see it anywhere... I'm ready to bring it in the shop.. the pulsation ONLY happens when braking and gets more severe when stopping from progressively higher speeds...
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Ever since I took my 18" wheels off for the winter and put the stock VW 16's with snow tires I have on multiple occasions almost rear ended the car in front of me when I experienced what seemed like a loss of brake pressure. The brake pedal did not feel spongy or anything but often in this situation the abs brakes seem to kick in for no reason. I feel a slight pulsation in the brake pedal which I can only assume is an activation of abs. I'm wondering if this slight pulsation (1 second duration ) is causing my brakes to be less effective. The pavement has been completely dry and I was not traveling fast enough, nor pressing the brakes hard enough to cause the tires to lock and trip the abs.
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2008 F250 Crew Cab 5.4, 79K miles, had new brake pads installed at 40K miles. Recently, I noticed front end shudder and some pedal pulsation while braking. It started kind of sudden. My first thought was a warped rotor.
When I took things apart, I found passenger side front rotor was cracked and the caliper pistons were rusted and falling apart, the old pads were only worn about half way. My thoughts on a bad rotor were confirmed, and then some.
I replaced the broken caliper, both front rotors, installed new pads on all four wheels, and bled the brakes. To my surprise, the brake shuddering did not go away. I'm stumped.
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My 2004 started shuddering at 45mph or while going up a 4-6 degree hill. It was well past the suggested 100,000 mile spark plug change. I thought about changing the plugs myself until I heard that they could possibly break and would be difficult to remove. I took the truck to a shop and had the plugs changed.
For about 2 days it ran okay, but the shudder returned and we got PO303 (mis-fire cylinder #3), PO316 (mis-fire on start-up), and PO171 (system to lean, bank one) Codes. The shop replaced the fuel injector on cylinder #3 and again the truck ran okay for about 2 days. My son and I cleaned the other three injectors on bank one, cleaned most of the sensors and the MAF.
That work cleared the PO171 Code, but we still had a mis-fire on cylinder #3. We swapped the spark plugs between #1 and #3 and got a mis-fire on cylinder #1. We replaced the plug on cylinder #1 and that cleared the code. The truck is running great.
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05 GX 470...no KDDS...100k miles. When I've been driving a few miles, I feel a pulsating when braking. Feels like it's coming from the front (front left if I had to guess). I put in new rotors and brakes in the front, turned the back rotors and problem still persists, no improvement.
I'm now considering the hub-bearing. However, when I do the standard-check (lift wheel and apply stress from top/bottom) there's no indication of a bad hub bearing.
The problem worsens as I drive faster. When on the highway, if I start to turn the wheel right 'then' brake...the steering wheel pulsates bad. When I turn the wheel left 'then' brake, it's not as bad...but still noticeable. When I start pressing the brake pedal 'then' start to turn the wheel right it's still there but not as bad compared to applying the brake after turning.
There's no pulsation in the break pedal, only the steering wheel and body/chassis.
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When I brake very hard my right front wheel will skid, it releases quickly if I modulate the brakes. I removed the calipers to check for any frozen pistons. They are free. Pads are even and the rotors are good. I did bleed the system and no difference. what would cause this? Since I have looked at the mechanical aspect I wonder if there is sensor issue, is that a potential? I am not even sure if there is a sensor.
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What is the best way to go about tackling these problems, need tires but don't want to smoke them with present problems.
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When I brake hard. My truck wants to veer right. It drives straight otherwise.
I recently had my front shock replaced and prior tp that my truck did the same thing, although it was much worse since my left front shock was leaking. Originally I thought it was pulling because of the bad shock but now that thet've been replaced I am not to sure.
Alignment issue or something else entirely? Coud bad rear shocks cause the issue?
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My 2007 GX470 is making a clunk/thud noise when braking (more often when braking hard or on a downhill slope) and then again when I let off the brakes and start to accelerate. It is significant enough that I can feel the car jerk some when it happens, almost as if someone has tapped the back with their car. What it could be?
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Recently bought a 2006 RX400h - my first Lexus. Occasionally when braking it feels like the electric motors "won't release" for a second or two and the car lurches. Eventually they do and then braking feels normal. But while this is happening it feels like I have to really step on the brakes to get it to stop.
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Lately my 2007 GX470's steering wheel has a shaking/vibrating problem whenever I apply the brake at speed above 50 mph or so. Without braking or with braking at slower speed, there is no problem at all -- everything is glass smooth.
1. I assume the front brake rotor is warped?
2. Will I need to change the rotor or is there a way to fix the warp (it that's the problem) without changing the rotor?
3. Approximate part & labor cost?
I plan to bring to dealer for a check up but would like to know ahead of time what to expect.
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I own an 08 Rx350 at 70k miles now. This is my first car ever; my parents bought it brand new and gave to me as gift after I graduated from college. I try to take good care of it; whatever the dealership tells me to replace, I replace it. I follow the maintenance schedule and owners guide to a T. I never really paid attention when my parents drove this car...but I don't know why my car vibrates when I get maybe above 60 mph and try to apply the brake. I do not brake hard and now I pretty much avoid applying brake and just let it glide. Is this normal? Whenever I visit the dealership they do a complete check up. All the check up results are normal;nothing wrong with tire trims, brake pads, suspension etc.
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I have a 2004 Dodge Grand Caravan with 120,000 miles. Starting at about 45mph the car has a really bad shimmy when accelerating. The shimmy fades starting at about 55 mph. There is no shimmy when not accelerating. Gently applying the breaks has no effect on the shimmy. I've put on new tires, Change the steering rack and struts and the engine and tranny mounts. what could be causing this?
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I have read two other threads that indicate a leaky head gasket for Nissan Frontiers overheating...but I'd like an opinion on my problem: I have a 1999, v6 3.3L, 4x4, manual Frontier that I have owned since 2001, always well-maintained, timing belt, water pump and thermostat already replaced a couple of years ago; currently has 129k mi. I rarely drive it (about once or twice a month).
Last time I drove it (I'm in AZ and heat was over 100 degrees) it started right up and was fine until I'd gone about 3 miles on the freeway doing about 65mph. Started to climb in temperature, but not into the red zone. I drove with it hovering just above the midway point (midway meaning perfectly normal temperature on my gauge) for a couple of more miles, when it started to climb just a bit more, I got off the freeway and dropped under 45 mph, the temperature went down to normal. I drove about 40mph back home and haven't driven it since.
I checked my coolant, which was extremely clean and not low, and was not boiling when I checked it soon after the temp went up on the freeway. What is the most likely cause?On a side note, since I do not drive it that often, what is recommended as to the gas that has been sitting in my tank since? How long does the gas stay good for? Further wondering how often it is recommended I drive it, for how long and at what sustained speed to keep my truck up and running?
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I have a 4 cylinder 2012 Toyota Camry SE. It is 3 months old and has 2,300 miles.
My husband and I notice a high pitch humming noise that happens mainly on the freeway, when you get over 45 mph. We tried ruling out different things like, bluetooth, radio, air conditioner, wind noise etc. We realized that the noise happens with you push on the accelerator pedal. If you hold the pedal to maintain speed, it does not happen. Only when you push the accelerator pedal. The noise was more noticeable when I drove it up in the mountains and had to push on the accelerator pedal off and on to maneuver turns and up hills.
I figure that we can bring it up to our dealer in October at our 5,000 mile service.
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I have a 2002 SD 4WD auto trans extended cab/short bed (92K miles). Run 55psi front and 70 psi rear per door placard. Recently started getting a vibration when cruising at 45MPH and to a lesser extent at 55MPH. I was due for new tires so I got Hercules which where balanced and also had the alignment checked (no problems.) Vibration has subsided greatly but still does it at 45MPH. A little faster or slower and it goes away. I checked the u-joints on the (one-piece) driveshaft and they seem tight. I do not feel any vibration in the steering wheel but really cannot tell if it is coming from the front or the rear.
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I have a 1998 F150 5.4L 4WD with 192k mi on it. Recently ( suddenly ) the vehicle began shuttering pretty alerting under light load at 35 - 45mph. The engine idle was intermittently smooth then rough. I quickly drove the truck home and ran a Trouble Code check with my Autoxray EZ-scan 4000 and found the two trouble codes P0302 and P0171. I have checked for vacuum hose cracks and found none.
Replaced the fuel filter, PCV valve, and cleaned the MAF sensor ( dirty ).
Right after cleaning the MAF sensor the idle remained smooth - but stumbling immediately when put in drive. Driving at 35-45mph still exhibits intermittent shuttering and occasional very short bursts of what feel like complete engine shut-down. This all is evident under light to moderate load .
At this point what would you recommend ? Replacing the O2 sensor bank #1 ? Or is there a possibility maybe the EGR valve is faulty - or another vacuum valve somewhere ? Intake manifold leak ?
The severe stumbling and very short complete engine shut downs would indicate that maybe the computer is failing or it's a fuel delivery issue? What rational steps to take next ?
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My Camry XLS have pulsation when brake pedal is applied. The pulsation get increased with the speed and very noticeable at 60 -70 mph.
Is it front or rear break issue ? If you think rotors has to be re-surfacesd should I also change pads ?
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