Lexus RX 2004-09 :: RX330 - Vibration While Driving / When Go Over 60 Front End Starts To Wobble
Aug 22, 2014
I was wondering if a bad/leaking steering rack would cause a clunking sound when turning. Also if the rack is bad how many hours should it take to change?
When I am making turns I hear a clunking noise coming from the passenger side and the boot has oil on it but the fluid in the reservoir doesn't seem low.
When I am driving there is a lot of vibration and when I go over 60 the front end starts to wobble.
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I bought my 2004 RX 330 last year with 110k miles. It starts up every time with no problem, except that It takes a few more seconds to turn over the engine till it starts. I have to keep the key turned longer that my other cars where all I need to do is just turn to start for a second only. I just replaced the battery and that did not change anything.
Is this normal for my RX 330, could I need new spark plugs? It's never been a problem in winter or summer.
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My wife's RX is really starting to give me a headache. The first problem I'm having with this car is detonation. The car starts pinging at part/ light throttle once the engine is fully warmed up. The is no CEL or codes pending. After scanning the car it seems that fueling is right where it should be and nothing else seems out of order. The pinging stops when you hit the gas harder. So far the only way to rid the car of this problem is to fill with 93 octane and that gets expensive with a daily driver. Shouldn't the knock sensors be handling this? Is there a way to test them?
The second problem I have is the heat won't turn off. Hot air always comes out at what seems to be low fan. I can move the area it comes from ( dash vent, floor etc) but I can't turn it off. With the fan set to off and no settings chosen I still get heat.
The car currently has 78k miles on it
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I have a 2006, RX 330 with approximately 130,000 miles. I was driving up a hill today and my engine seemed to stall. I pumped the throttle a couple of times and it seamed to take care of the problem. I am thinking it is a dirty fuel filter. Would a pressure test on the fuel line give me the answer ? And yes I did check and there is plenty of fuel in the tank.
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It has 85K miles and rides very choppy/harsh. I feel even a very small dip/hump/bump when driving and it's coming from rear of the car.
What needs to be replaced and/or checked other than the rear shocks? Everything is stock and correct tire pressure.
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I recently replaced my front door speakers in my 2005 RX330. Upon reassembling everything I had the following issues:
1) The front Passenger side window and rear seat windows would not roll down from the driver's side controls. This issue was resolved by going to each individual window control and rolling the window down halfway and then rolling them all the way up and continuing to press on the window control in the "Up" position for an additional 5 seconds or so.
2) My original Lexus key (non-remote) would work for staring the car, but it would no longer work to unlock the doors by inserting it into the Driver's side door lock and moving the key toward the front of the car.
3) In attempting to resolve issue #2, I disconnected the Car battery for a couple of hours and reconnected it, which leads me to my big problem(s). Now none of my windows will roll down from ANY window control (including the front door driver's window). In addition, the doors can only be locked/unlocked from the Lexus Key Remote or from the front Passenger door lock control.
I have checked all fuses that I could get to (under the hood and under the drivers side dash panel) but I still cannot get the windows or door locks to function normally. I could not get to one big blue fuse under the dash panel right next to the fusebox that I believe is related to the power windows. I am not sure if it also fuses the sunroof, which DOES function. I pulled the Negative Battery cable off a second time and did another reset but to no avail.
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I purchased a used 2006 Toyota Highlander AWD about 4 months ago. Ever since I bought it, it has had a vibration / wobble from the front end that can be felt through the steering wheel and acceleration petal. Only happens between 40-45 mph. I have brought it to the dealer many times and every time they balance the tires. Last time they said it was a faulty motor mount and replaced it. The problem has not been fixed with this repair.
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2006 gs300 AWD , stock everything ,
I am experiencing heavy wobble,front section from 5 to 20 kmh , , like an unbalanced washing machine starting the spin cycle And again milder around 60 to 80 kmh. This is after tire change over to michelin pilot hx mxm4 65% thread .. professionally balanced .
I could still feel it with the blizzaks at low speeds, but way way less. Both sets are 225 50 r17 93v 35psi on original mags as per book
I was wondering if it could have any thing to do with tire wear geometry, or perhaps drive shafts ,but no clicks or noise from them.
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4.7 ltr 2WD starts fine and while cold runs fine. Seems after an hour or so of driving the engine begins to skip. Will idle just fine but when giving gas the engine skips and refuses to accelerate beyond 1700 rpm. Had the cats changed 6 months ago. someone suggested the MAF sensor might be bad....so cleaned it. Still runs rough. I suspect it might be a sensor. If I leave the car overnight ...runs fine in the morning. Engine gets hot....begins to skip and cannot accelerate unless going down hill. Vehicle skips especially when under a load.
Does the MAF sensor have anything to do with this? Maybe it could be the Engine Coolant Sensor? Not sure what to do. Don't want to throw parts at it without some idea what is causing it. BTW...no check engine lights at all. And nothing showed up on the computer when it was running rough. Tech told me cylinders 2 and 4 were not firing properly but immediately after cleaning the MAF sensor the car ran fine for 4 minutes then problem returned.
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I have a 2005 RX 330 with about 100k on it. The A/C does not keep the cabin cool. If you turn the fan up it will keep it cooler. I took it back to the dealer and they say there is nothing wrong with it. They did recharge it but it did nothing. You have to keep the fan turned up to just stay comfortable. I have had service loaners and I have to keep turning the temp up or it gets too cold.
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I have a 2006 RX330 AWD. I took it to get inspected and was told I had a bad O2 Sensor.
Are they easy to replace? What should the average cost be? I was also looking for the part number. I was told that "Bank 2 Sensor 1" failed. I was looking for the part but I am not sure I found the correct part.
I was also told that the front inner and outer Tie Rod needs replaced along with both rear wheel bearings. I found the parts for the tie rod but not sure about the rear wheel bearings. Wondering if i need to get just the wheel bearing or if i need the wheel bearing and hub assembly also.
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It seems like my wife's 2006 RX330 does not get as cold as it used to. At times, it will even blow warm and humid air, even though it is set to max cold, although this is intermittent, which to me, creates a harder problem to diagnose.
For example, if I put the AC on Auto, at 70 degrees, it never gets cold enough for the fan to drop below the Medium fan setting. To me 70, is not that cold, and it should be able to reach this temperature, and then slow the fan down to just maintain the temperature. I can even put the system on Max AC, and it the fan blows at the High setting, but it never gets really cold.
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So i am trying to diagnose my vibration/noise that i am getting from the front right side of my 08 prius (176k miles). It kind of like a rattle vibration when driving on fairly smooth roads. I jacked up the right side to take a look around to see if anything is out of the ordinary. I did the push pull around the tired to see if there was any motion (there was none). Although there is some play when you manual rotate the wheel, about and inch of circumferential motion. Is this normal ?
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Something weird started happening post my oil change yesterday. AC is working only at LO temp and it blows hot air even at 65. AC light stays on but it starts blowing hot air at any other setting then LO..
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How to reset/re-program my original key. It all started when the plastic casing of the key broke off and tried to use the original spare key wallet type with transponder and key dont go all the way in the ignition and key get stuck in one position but manage to get it out. Tried to put the broken one with the transponder close to it and will not start. Luckily i still have another original key that works. I have change the battery of the broken one and fabricated new housing made of brass and have tried the remote and it doesnt work too.
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My 2005 RX330 has run fine for all 45000 miles to date. One exception is that there is a high pitched hum that becomes noticeable once the car reaches 30 mph and continues to increase pitch until about 45mph. The hum seems to disappear when going faster than 45. If you cruise on a quiet street at 30mph the hum will stay steady if you maintain speed. The hum will increase if you accelerate.
But... if you take your foot off the gas pedal the hum instantly stops. Put your foot back on the pedal and it instantly starts. You can almost "play a song" by taking your foot off and on the pedal. Lexus service clearly heard the sound during a test drive, but could not figure it out.
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Hard to fix? Only happens when going under 5 mph either in slow traffic or slowing down to park in parking spot or just stopping the car. Doesn't happen at high speeds. It's like I'm driving on snow or ice or wet pavement but there is dry pavement. Brake pads and rotors were cleaned with no success. Guessing that a sensor is dirty or broken or such.
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I have a 2004 RX330 that all of a sudden had the SRS warning light come on as well as the passenger airbag OFF light being constantly lit up even when someone is sitting in the passenger seat. I put the SRS system in diagnostics mode with a jumper clip to determine I am receiving a DTC of 23. Documentation I have found for this online states for Lexus it is a occupancy classification system issue which I know means it's something on the passenger side.
This seems like it would be related to the occupant seat sensor itself which I am first of all wondering if it is bypassed like the BMW guys have done on their cars when this issue happens.
Secondly, I'm wondering with this specific code of 23 could it be anything other than the seat/weight sensor? My passenger seat belt has tons of slack and doesn't retract as it should so I'm thinking maybe pre-tensioner sensor but not sure because it also seems to stick when trying to unbuckle it as well which leads me to believe it could be the fastener sensor.
I feel very unsafe having any passengers in the vehicle right now and the car is well beyond its warranty of course so bringing it in to the dealer is really a last resort option for me since I know at minimum they'll charge $1000 for SRS wiring issues based on what I've read.
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How to change the bulb on the rx330 fog lights. It doesn't say it in the manual.
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I just bought my first Lexus, picked up a 2008 GX 470 with only 35k miles!
I just had the TSB for the "Clunk" issue fixed and I had a tire sensor that was leaking and had that fixed.
The ONLY other issue I am having is that there is a vibration at between 1250-2000 RPM and it's most prevalent at 1500 RPM, but it is gone above 2000 RPM. This happens while in park and hitting the accelerator to get to those RPM and it happens in all gears while driving, which is especially annoying because the SUV typically is sitting right at 1500 RPM while driving.
The Lexus dealer thought the driveshaft TSB would take care of the vibration, but it didn't.
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I have a 2003 lexus gx and every time I am driving around 1,500 rpms it has a vibration and it feels like its coming from the transmission.
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