Lexus RX 2004-09 :: RX330 Takes A Few More Seconds To Turn Over Engine Till It Starts
Mar 16, 2016
I bought my 2004 RX 330 last year with 110k miles. It starts up every time with no problem, except that It takes a few more seconds to turn over the engine till it starts. I have to keep the key turned longer that my other cars where all I need to do is just turn to start for a second only. I just replaced the battery and that did not change anything.
Is this normal for my RX 330, could I need new spark plugs? It's never been a problem in winter or summer.
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Our check engine light came on earlier this summer. A local mechanic who supposedly specializes in German autos said there was a vapor lock leak in the fuel system. He replace our gas cap and reset the warning light. A few weeks later the light came back on. This time he replaced fuel pump and reset the warning light. This created a new problem: when you turn on the ignition it now takes 20-30 seconds before the car ignites/starts. The engine turns over but takes that long to start. If you turn the ignition on and then quickly turn if off and then on again it starts immediately.
A few weeks went by and the check engine light came on again. I took it to a new mechanic. He said the fuel pump appeared to be fine and replaced a fuel line sensor. This didn't work at all as far as I can tell.
Now the check engine light is back on and we still have the prolonged starting problem. Now that the temps are cold the starting issue does seem a little better.
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For over a year, I've been experience starting problems with my 2008 Lexus es350.
About every 3 starts or so, it takes my car 3 seconds are so of turning over before the car actually starts. So, 2 out of 3 starts are perfect.
I recently replace my stock batter for the first time (43,000) miles after my car battery died after being parked for only two hours... i thought this might solve the problem, but it hasn't.
Why it is taking my car so long to turn over every couple of starts?
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My wife's RX is really starting to give me a headache. The first problem I'm having with this car is detonation. The car starts pinging at part/ light throttle once the engine is fully warmed up. The is no CEL or codes pending. After scanning the car it seems that fueling is right where it should be and nothing else seems out of order. The pinging stops when you hit the gas harder. So far the only way to rid the car of this problem is to fill with 93 octane and that gets expensive with a daily driver. Shouldn't the knock sensors be handling this? Is there a way to test them?
The second problem I have is the heat won't turn off. Hot air always comes out at what seems to be low fan. I can move the area it comes from ( dash vent, floor etc) but I can't turn it off. With the fan set to off and no settings chosen I still get heat.
The car currently has 78k miles on it
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I was wondering if a bad/leaking steering rack would cause a clunking sound when turning. Also if the rack is bad how many hours should it take to change?
When I am making turns I hear a clunking noise coming from the passenger side and the boot has oil on it but the fluid in the reservoir doesn't seem low.
When I am driving there is a lot of vibration and when I go over 60 the front end starts to wobble.
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I have owned this 01 LS with a V8 for about a year now and have had it to the dealer at least 6 times. After bringing the car in twice, the dealer finally found that there was a problem with the fuel injector. 3 months later the problem came back - basically the car takes 3-6 seconds of cranking before it starts (from a cold start of more than 2 hours). The last 3 times I have had it in the dealer has reprogrammed the computer and thought it was fixed - Wrong! After this last time, the dealer said they could not find a problem and felt they were doing all they could - in fact, they told me to switch to a lower octane gas and see if that works.
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My truck has a short in it. I've noticed this delay for the past few months. Takes a few seconds when I'm cranking it, then it finally starts. Could it be the alternator that I need replaced? It's not the battery, cause I'm getting plenty of juice.
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I have a 2002 F-450 crew cab 2wd automatic 7.3 diesel with 298k on the body and about 120k on a Jasper engine. About a month ago I started it in the morning to let it warm up. Went to make coffee. Came back and it had died. It was low on fuel and I didn't pay attention. Played hell getting it primed back up. Now if I don't let it warm up for twenty minutes it won't run worth a flip and has been dying out. Changed fuel filter. Unplugged ICP. No change. When I crank it it will turn over for about thirty seconds then oil pressure gauge moves, then engine starts to run very roughly. It will die. I repeat a few times. It will eventually start and start and stay running. Blows whitish grey smoke until it warms up. No loss in power till CEL comes on. Still not too much loss. Sometimes it takes a long time to get it running. Sometimes it will die after I get out of the driveway if I don't let it warm up. Truck was serviced maybe 3000 miles ago. No water in fuel. New fuel filter. New air filter. It is a company truck. I work for a small company building cell towers.
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I have a 2006, RX 330 with approximately 130,000 miles. I was driving up a hill today and my engine seemed to stall. I pumped the throttle a couple of times and it seamed to take care of the problem. I am thinking it is a dirty fuel filter. Would a pressure test on the fuel line give me the answer ? And yes I did check and there is plenty of fuel in the tank.
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where best place to start looking for what's causing p0442 code on my 2005 rx330? and its not the gas cap... also have a "c" code identified for the VSC light, states that its wheel speed sensor. evidently wrote the wrong code down, i had it listed as a c1290 but in looking them up i couldn't find that one.
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Lexus 3.3L RX-330 Engine Noise - Part 3 - YouTube
I am concerned with an engine noise.
5 months ago we bought a 2005 Lexus RX-330. It had 109k miles on it (now has 113k). There is a faint but noticeable engine tap/ knock/ tick coming from the engine. I think it has the 3.3l, 3gr-fe engine.
I have listed some observations:
The sound does not occur on startup, when the car is completely cold.
The sound starts after 5-10 minutes of driving or idling.
The sound diminishes and is almost imperceptible after another 10 minutes of driving.
The sound is only noticeable at idle.
The sound/tap seems to occur about 5 times a second at 600 rpm (idle)
The sound increases frequency with rising of rpm.
At approximately 2k rpm the sound cannot be heard.
If the vehicle is stopped after driving, allowed to sit for 5-10 minutes and then restarted, the sound will be loudest even though the engine is still hot.
The engine is quiet overall with exception of this sound. The fuel injector sound is the next loudest sound.
The sound doesn't seem to have gotten louder in the last 5 months but it may have gotten just slightly louder by my estimation.
I can hear the sound inside the vehicle and outside as well.
No other symptoms are present. I had the timing belt, water pump, idler and tensioner replaced as maintenance and as a possible solution to this problem right after buying the vehicle.
The mechanic heard the sound but told me he wasn't sure of the cause. He and I agree that it sounds like an internal engine noise. It is not a pulley, idler or exhaust sound. The mechanic told me not to worry about it and it was a normal sound. He also said to start troubleshooting would get expensive. I am still concerned.
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2004 F150 5.4 3v. I bought the truck with 102k on it, it now has 124k. In the morning, when the outside temp is between 30-50, the engine starts and runs fine. When I get to the first red light ( about 1 mile away) within seconds of the engine at idle, engine starts to run rough and CEL. Every time the code is p0351. If I let it sit in the driveway to full warm up... no problem. If I start the truck, shut it off and restart...no problem. It only happens at the cooler temps. I have changed plugs, used motorcraft, nickel antiseize, torqued, etc. Ford changed the coil, I have changed the coil, cleaned MAF. As soon as I cross the intersection, light stays on, rough running clears up, and runs like a champ for the rest of the day.
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I have a 05 lexus rx330, i bought it in december 2014. And the dealership replace the left headlight assembly because the headlight was foggy and watery and it wasnt turning on. And now 5 months later, the light is on and flickering, and later after 10 seconds it turn off.
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Over the last week my GX has developed a strange issue. It sometimes takes 3 or 4 tries of turning the key before the engine fires up. It turns over strongly and quickly but it isn't "catching". The weird thing is, it doesn't happen every time. Here is what I have noticed:
1) Leave the vehicle parked overnight - no issues starting. It starts right up.
2) Crank the vehicle after having only been off a few minutes (like after you run in to pick something up at the grocery store) it cranks right up.
3) Let the vehicle sit for between 1 and 4 or 5 hours and the problem appears. It turns over and over and over but won't actually start. Anywhere between the 3rd and 5th turn of the key it will finally catch and actually crank.
In all cases, once it cranks it runs smoothly and normally with no issues.
I have replaced the battery thinking that was the issue but that did not fix the problem. Also strange is the fact that this problem occurred after I replaced both front door speakers, an operation that required me to have one or more doors open for an hour or so at a time (hence why I thought it might be a weak battery).
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Triton 4.6, new air filter, throttle body cleaned, new fuel filter. Seems sluggish off idle, and when I let off accelerator, rpm's take a few seconds to come down. If the truck is setting still, a quick hit on the throttle takes a second for the engine to build rpm's.
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This applies to a 2001 F-350 with 73,000 miles on the engine. Engine oil level is good, batteries charged, HPOP reservoir is full and passes Cody test with flying colors. Fuel pump runs for 20 seconds at key on. Start takes about 6 seconds. If I shut the key off and restart immediately it starts in under 2 seconds but if I wait about 30 seconds it's a 6 second start. Here is an AE that I ran on it, it has me stumped. FWIW it seems to start quicker when AE is hooked up. ?? An odd whir type of noise comes out from somewhere under the hood when I first turn the key on and when I clear the codes with AE.
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I just finished installing a new set of injectors, standpipes and the blue spring kit on our 2005 Excursion 6.0. The truck idles and runs much better but now it takes almost two seconds of cranking to start the engine. Cold and hot are the same and the length of time between shut down and start doesn't seem to matter either.
What to check? I am planning to check the ICP tonight when I get home. Could I have air trapped some where in the system? This is my first powerstroke so I don't know if this is a possibility.
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I have a 2005 RX 330 with about 100k on it. The A/C does not keep the cabin cool. If you turn the fan up it will keep it cooler. I took it back to the dealer and they say there is nothing wrong with it. They did recharge it but it did nothing. You have to keep the fan turned up to just stay comfortable. I have had service loaners and I have to keep turning the temp up or it gets too cold.
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I have a 2006 RX330 AWD. I took it to get inspected and was told I had a bad O2 Sensor.
Are they easy to replace? What should the average cost be? I was also looking for the part number. I was told that "Bank 2 Sensor 1" failed. I was looking for the part but I am not sure I found the correct part.
I was also told that the front inner and outer Tie Rod needs replaced along with both rear wheel bearings. I found the parts for the tie rod but not sure about the rear wheel bearings. Wondering if i need to get just the wheel bearing or if i need the wheel bearing and hub assembly also.
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It seems like my wife's 2006 RX330 does not get as cold as it used to. At times, it will even blow warm and humid air, even though it is set to max cold, although this is intermittent, which to me, creates a harder problem to diagnose.
For example, if I put the AC on Auto, at 70 degrees, it never gets cold enough for the fan to drop below the Medium fan setting. To me 70, is not that cold, and it should be able to reach this temperature, and then slow the fan down to just maintain the temperature. I can even put the system on Max AC, and it the fan blows at the High setting, but it never gets really cold.
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why does it shut off radio before you open door? Can this be programmed so that when u turn engine off, radio stays on till driver door is opened? My wives Audi does this and is great for waiting at bank drive-up, or picking up someone.
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