Lexus GX 2004-09 :: Hard Start - Vehicle Sometimes Takes 3 Or 4 Tries Of Turning Key Before Engine Fires Up


Apr 12, 2016

Over the last week my GX has developed a strange issue. It sometimes takes 3 or 4 tries of turning the key before the engine fires up. It turns over strongly and quickly but it isn't "catching". The weird thing is, it doesn't happen every time. Here is what I have noticed:

1) Leave the vehicle parked overnight - no issues starting. It starts right up.

2) Crank the vehicle after having only been off a few minutes (like after you run in to pick something up at the grocery store) it cranks right up.

3) Let the vehicle sit for between 1 and 4 or 5 hours and the problem appears. It turns over and over and over but won't actually start. Anywhere between the 3rd and 5th turn of the key it will finally catch and actually crank.

In all cases, once it cranks it runs smoothly and normally with no issues.

I have replaced the battery thinking that was the issue but that did not fix the problem. Also strange is the fact that this problem occurred after I replaced both front door speakers, an operation that required me to have one or more doors open for an hour or so at a time (hence why I thought it might be a weak battery).

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My 1999 F550 7.3L has been hard to start when it's cold outside since I got it with about 150k on it (it has 200k on it now). Last year we tested the glow plugs and sure enough 5 of 8 were bad. So they are all new now. It worked a little with the hard start, but not much.

When it's cold out the engine will crank forever amongst clouds of smoke and the smell of unburnt diesel fuel and sometimes eventually start, followed by smoke and sputtering until the cylinders clear out. However, what I have noticed recently is that it will sometimes start in the first few revolutions. It seems like the best way to start cold is as follows:

1. Let the glow plugs heat up for a minute or two,
2. Crank engine for 10 or 15 seconds and stop,
3. Crank engine again, but stop if it doesn't catch in the first couple of revolutions,
4. Repeat step 3 until engine starts.

When it starts using this method, it's immediate and it's running smoothly immediately with minimal smoke. This is making me think there's a computer or sensor issue, but I have no codes.

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The car is 2001 year VW Passat 2.3 V5 125kw (azx).

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I was hoping to have this resolved, but it seems how I have it parked affects the cold starting of this thing. Had an issue quite a while back as listed in another thread where the truck cranks and fires then immediately dies when cold. Takes at least three times to fire. Once fired it has no problems and will start easily unless it sits for almost a days time...on flat ground.

I replaced some injectors recently since they were bad and I had the truck parked facing downhill slightly when I did that. Since the repairs, the truck would start fine while parked there. Brought my trailer home and have the truck in the street on the flat ground and once again the 3 crank starts begin.

I have attached three Excel spreadsheets of my data from today. All three are the same data log just split up for size and elimination of dead time on the original spreadsheet.

So, I am guessing I have a HPOP problem, which is probably why I was getting intermittent contribution codes when the truck is up to temp. The truck fires totally fine when the oil is hot and up to temp so hot starts are no issue. Could the pump be "stuck" or just not working right when it has sat?

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For over a year, I've been experience starting problems with my 2008 Lexus es350.

About every 3 starts or so, it takes my car 3 seconds are so of turning over before the car actually starts. So, 2 out of 3 starts are perfect.

I recently replace my stock batter for the first time (43,000) miles after my car battery died after being parked for only two hours... i thought this might solve the problem, but it hasn't.

Why it is taking my car so long to turn over every couple of starts?

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I bought my 2004 RX 330 last year with 110k miles. It starts up every time with no problem, except that It takes a few more seconds to turn over the engine till it starts. I have to keep the key turned longer that my other cars where all I need to do is just turn to start for a second only. I just replaced the battery and that did not change anything.

Is this normal for my RX 330, could I need new spark plugs? It's never been a problem in winter or summer.

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Did some troubleshooting and sure enough, we are getting no spark for a few seconds and the engine runs fine when it finally gets spark. Would this be the crank position sensor? Cam position sensor causing this? Not sure what is supposed to happen during the starting sequence in regards to what sensors are in being read by the PCM and then enabling spark.

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The engine cranks over but does not start. Usually resolve it by sitting for 10 - 15 seconds then trying again. Sometimes have to do this two or three times before it fires. All other electrical items work ok and the battery has no problem powering accessories. I've had it into the dealer however because it is difficult to replicate, they have a hard time repairing the problem. The first time they neutralized the immobilizer and re-programmed it. The second time, I got a check engine light and they replaced the immobilizer. But the problem continues.

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I have a 2004 Jetta TDI Stationwagon. In January it started having starting problems. The car would crank but not fire. After about 8-9 tries it would fire. MOstly does it first crank of the day (whether morning or afternoon).

Mechanic #1 said it was the fuel filter and changed it. But it still had starting problems. Then Mechanic #1 said it was a sensor and changed it. Still had starting problems. In February, Mechanic #2 said it was the fuel pump. Changed the fuel pump. Still had starting problems.

Then Mechanic #2 said it was the crank sensor. But when he checked the crank sensor was brand new (apparently Mech #1 changed it in January). Still had same starting problems.

Mechanic #3 said he received the Crank sensor diagnostic error too but he checked it and it was brand new! He told me to take it to the dealer. I did. Dealer said no it wasn't the crank sensor it was the new fuel pump installed in April was defective. Took off the brand new fuel pump that was installed another brand new fuel pump. Next day car started fine but two days later didn't start again. Took car back to the dealer. They said after all it wasn't the fuel pump it was the crank sensor. After a couple days they said it wasn't the crank sensor but it was the EGR valve that was clogged with carbon. They changed the EGR valve, cleaned it out and gave the car back to me.

Today the car doesn't start again! I tried it about 7 times! Dealer is going to haul it back and try to figure it out! But I am frustrated! What could it be?

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I installed a fuse in the fuse box, which was empty when I purchased the car. And the engine instantly died. It did start up when the fuse was removed, and I drove it back across country. The idle got worse until it died and would not start back home.

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Well this just started a couple of days ago and has gotten worse would start just fine and idle fine put in gear and I have little to no throttle if you give it to much would stall out but would start right up now it s hard as can be to start like 15-20 minutes to start others starting fluid and will idle great but same thing go to drive little to no throttle I can hear fuel pump priming it was changed over summer as filter and have replaced so many parts ...

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Have taken my 2004 CRV to the dealer 5 times over the last 6 months because I smell gas after turning the vehicle off. I mostly smell it when I get out of the car. The smell is coming from the gas tank area, but there are no visible leaks.

The dealer has smoked it, replaced the gas cap, replaced a fuel sensor, done pressure tests which were negative, and now is recommending replacing the entire fuel sending system, which I believe is the fuel pump and something else. I consulted a mechanic friend who take off the cover under the back seat which exposes the top of the tank and we put soapy water around the top of the tank where the fuel pump attaches while pumping air into the sealed off tank.

We were hoping that it might just be a bad gasket but there were no visible air bubbles. Now another mechanic is suggesting that I have a small leak in the seams of my gas tank and wants to drop the tank to see if there are signs of leakage. Seems like I keep spending more and more money on guesses.? I'm seriously thinking of getting rid of this car as I get headaches after driving for more than 20 minutes, not to mention the headache I have from having this problem drag on...

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