Lexus RX 2010-15 :: Brake Lights In Rear Hatch Don't Come On
Jan 11, 2015
Perhaps a silly question but I noticed on my new 2015 RX 350 the brake lights that are in the rear hatch don't come on when the brake is applied, only the brake lights in the body of the car on each of the outer corners. I was following another new 2015 the other day and noticed it was the same. When looking at the the part of the taillight assembly that's in the rear hatch, it appears there are LEDs in there. why they don't light up?
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I am going to install a center brake light flasher in the rear hatch. I see the panel that appears to cover the area I need on the inside of the hatch between the 2 windows. What is the best way to remove it? Am I on the right track?
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I washed and wax my wife's 2011 RX yesterday and I spotted rust around the edge of the taillight. It looks like part of the blister already break open and the other part just start forming. The car is Canadian build in Matador red mica color. Never been in any accident and never had any paintwork. I will take it in to Lexus dealer today for my SA to take an initial look. Hatch door rust issue on 3rd gen RX ??? I'm in shock that 4 years old car started to develop rust.
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Can I latch mount a carseat at the rear center? I asked the question when I test drive. I asked the sales when I bought the car. He told me the middle share the same hatch hook with side seats. I need to mount one car seat in the middle and one on the side.
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Bought 2013 rx 350 and the button on the dashboard to open the rear hatch trunk just beeps twice and wont open. i have to use the remote to open and close and the button on the trunk works to close it.
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While the rear hatch is auto closing on my 2015, I can't unlock my doors by grabbing the driver's side door handle. Is this the same for others?
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Just got a 2010 LX570 and the rear hatch doesn't open with key remote or close when button is pressed, just beeps twice.
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I've gone thru the owners manual that shows the options I can preset via the display audio (don't have nav) and I don't see where it is possible to turn off the beep when the rear hatch is opened/closed. Is this possible?
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I checked my rx350 battery health and it is good. Still I am having recurrent issues when battery dies. And needs a restart. It happened many times and last one just happened this morning and I have feeling that this is related to rear hatch door...let me explain what happened:
Yesterday evening I went for grocery shopping and opened the rear hatch door using my car key remote, kept the groceries and closed the rear hatch using the button on the bottom of rear hatch door. I drove back to home and parked the vehicle in the garage. This morning I opened the rear hatch again and closed it, drove it to a house one block away, returned home and parked the car.
When I tried to start 1 hour later, the battery had already died. So, I have a feeling that opening and closing the rear hatch door 3 times caused this battery drain.
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Can I disable unlocking of all the doors when I open the rear hatch from the outside? I figured out that if I use my fob, the doors does not unlock.
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Can I assume that my rear brake lights don't come on when I'm in B mode on my transmission? I searched for something about this in my manual and on this website, but found no mention of it. Since it's meant to simulate downshifting, I'm guessing my brake lights don't come on.
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What is the "type" of these dual filament lights and the proper way to access /change them? Do you pull off the lense from outside the vehicle or remove the inside trim at the top of the hatch and access from the inside??
Since only 1 filament is used can I simply reverse them to the used /non burned out filament or do the bulbs have pins on there sides that prevent that (like a 1157)??
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Just noticed today that when my exterior lights are on and I open the rear hatch, as soon as the latch pops the inner taillights (the ones on the hatch) go out. Do I have a wiring problem or is this normal? Just seems kinda odd; never saw a car with trunk-or-hatch-mounted tails extinguish them when the trunk/hatch is opened.
Oh, 2011 Golf TDI btw.
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I need to find a way to limit the rear hatch opening ... or find a taller wife.
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I'm getting a rattle in the hatch area -- making a sound as if the hatch is moving independent of the body.
Sound like the hatch is loose -- but it's not. If I grab hold of the wing and try and move the hatch ---- it's tight and I get no sound.
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I had a friend drive my car while I was in the rear hatch area trying to find a bad rattle. I discovered that it is inside a large plastic panel just where the rear window wiper motor would be. I'm sure if I could safely remove this large panel, I could find out what the rattle is and quiet it.
How to remove this panel? Are there some hidden bolts or screws? I don't want to force-pry it off if that is not the proper way to remove it. I'd sure rather do this myself than go thru the dealer rigmarole.
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I've had my 2010 for about 17months and 16k miles. Early on, I remember that I was able to easily close the rear hatch by just lightly yanking down on the handle, and gravity would do its thing. However, these days, I need to pull down much harder to get it to close in one try. Should I try to lube the hatch shocks and hinge? Or do I need to clean them first somehow?
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Disconnected battery and all the switches in the dash, including on/off in glove box. So that's what caused the problem. Now to fix it. I re-connected battery and all switches, bit hatch won't open with key switch or any switches in car (at door or in front dash). I did manual open and close without any result., the button in glove box is pushed in.
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Having problems with the vertical rear hatch window shattering? Mine is completely shattered, only the tint is holding it together. I can't see a single impact point (and don't think I backed into anything). It looks like a network evenly distributed over the entire rear window. But maybe this is the way safety glass breaks when it is hit at one point???
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Replace rear hatch struts? Mine don't raise the hatch all the way up and sometimes hit my head so would like to replace struts.
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I bought a 2012 prius 4 with 42k miles recently. The car is just too loud. I've determined the "noise" to be the rear hatch bouncing when I drive over small bumps in the road. The bounce creates an air pressure change that is just too unacceptable. I've milled the hatch lock mechanism's holes into slots to I can close the hatch tighter. This made a little improvement. My next step will be to add some gasket material on the hatch itself so it closes tighter. My slots allow the hatch to bottom out so I had to back off the adjustment a bit.
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