Lexus RX 2010-15 :: Buzzing From Brake Booster Check Valve When Lightly Braking
Jan 19, 2012
The annoying buzzing from the brake booster check valve that comes from the left of the instrument panel when lighly braking (especially when parked or waiting at a traffic light) is a well-known problem, as it was the subject of a Lexus (and Toyota) TSB for 2004-2010 models(see link below to the clublexus link), and has been discussed on many forums for Lexus and other cars.
I just bought a new 2012 RX 350 last month, and within a week it started making this buzzing noise (left instrument panel upon light braking). I took the car to the dealer and without listening they said that they knew it was the brake booster valve (the noise is the rattling of a ball bearing when the valve is malfunctioning). They replaced the valve and the noise went away (the loaner RX they gave me made the noise even worse).
Well, 3 weeks later, the noise has returned!
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Our brakes froze the first cold day this winter. My mechanic says that the brake booster valve filled with water and froze. Also, last winter our tiptronic just quit working. We never fixed it. Should we bother to fix it?
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i have a 2010 Prius II that had a recall in 2013 on the brake boosted. I had a new booster pump put on and now three years later it has brake fade again. I am told from the dealer that it will cost 1800 to repair. So how long does a recall last.
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Every time when lightly depressing the brake pedal there is a single click sound.
It doesn't not happen when releasing the pedal just when depressing it. It happens in all circumstances (i.e. with the car off, car on, stopped, moving, etc).
I thought it corresponded to the tail lights or the start button light because it happens right around when those lights turn on, but I was able to make it click without having either of those lights come on by depressing the pedal super slow.
I can't tell if its inside the car near the pedal or under the hood near the firewall... But it's right around that area. It seems louder at times then other times...usually quieter when car is moving (probably just drowned out by road noise)
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The wife's 2003 GX470 has some brake issues. High pitched whine and ABS and Brake lights went on, so I took it to my local lexus dealer which is 50 miles away. Anyway, the recommendation is to replace "brake booster" and "accumulator" with brake system bleed.
Then, says "may need master cylinder after that, will not know until that is completed
Then goes on to need timing belt, water pump due to miles (97K)
CV boots
Driveline service
[URL]..................
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New 2013 Elantra owner here.. When initially depressing the brake pedal lightly (before the brake pads engage, usually in stop-and-go traffic), I can feel a rubbing sensation coming from somewhere in the pedal assembly. If it's quiet, I can also hear a groaning sound. This definitely isn't a pad/rotor issue, rather something closer to the pedal itself and inside or near the cabin.
Took it to the dealership and after some coaxing and insistence that it wasn't "normal," they finally said it was the brake switch and replaced it. Seemed to alleviate the problem for a week or so, but now it's back!
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We recently purchased a 2008 RX350 with 61,000 miles. We had a potentially dangerous brake failure when the brake booster unit failed. It was an expensive repair ($1400.) and Lexus has refused to stand behind the product.
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I just got my new 2014 RX350 a few weeks ago. After these weeks drive, I feel the Brake is kind of soft and unsensitive.
When I braking, the first part of the brake pad feels soft and the braking is not very efficient, until I push a lot of the brake pad, the braking becomes confident and efficient.
I used to drive my 2006 Nissan altima , and feels the brake pad is very sensitive. My new lexus makes me a little bit unconfident when following a car in a short distance.
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My 2003 TrailBlazer LT (regular wheelbase) has the following codes:
- C0265
-C0281
-C0267
-C0237
The ABS light is NOT on! Every once in a while, if braking lightly, the ABS kicks in. That is the only symptom of any problems at all.
My first thought is could this be a bad ground at the EBCM or does it look like my BCM is on it's way out? I am wrong all together it the problem is something else?
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I just did the brakes on all four wheels of my 06. I replaced the rotors and pads all the way around with Powerstop parts. I got them from RockAuto.COM as a complete set. The rotors were made in China generic looking things and the pads were Powerstop Evolution Ceramic Disc Brake pads.
Anyhow, I drove around to bed the brakes after getting them installed and now the passenger front tire as a small "rotational squeal" when you are lightly braking.
Oh, one more thing, I'll admit this up front. I did not put any grease on the back of the pads. This was mostly due to I wasn't sure exactly where or how much grease to use.
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[URL] .... . I don't know what this noise could be. I have a 2009 pontiac g8 gt. This noise happens from braking lightly but not hard. Sometimes also when driving. Also does not happen all the time mostly when warmed up
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My 2007 with 58k on it started making the sound of a 'ratchet clankety clank' about at 56k while lightly braking with regen around 8-13 mph (slow and quiet enough to hear it best) and while turning slightly or more to the right. If I'm on a hill and can maintain the conditions, the sound will continue.
I've spent many a night searching here and elsewhere, learned a lot about strut and cv noises etc. At 57k I took it to a dealer who has a very nice service dept and they rode with me, agreed that they heard it, checked out the cv by hand (my first suspicion) and said all felt fine, that it was recorded at least (my concern being near 60k, std warranty).
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I have recently been hearing a clunking noise coming from the front end of my R while braking lightly to moderately at low speed. What this could be?
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My wife was driving my 93 Volvo 940 wagon yesterday, and the brakes suddenly lost power, and brake lights went out. I have heard no hissing from the booster, and I have checked the 10 amp fuse on the relay beneath the instrument panel. Hoping (and praying) it is just one of the relays. I have a meter, but not sure which pins to use to check the relays. Secondary issue: the used radiator I bought did not have the cooling fan sensor, so I have my fan on a toggle inside.
When my wife pulled over because of the brakes, she did not turn the fan on. Yup. Overheated. Now the radiator leaks from the rubber/plastic plug where the sensor goes. Any pliable sealants that could withstand the temps? Cash is in very short supply right now. That is my main issue right now, trying to drive with no brake lights. No ABS light, and no brake light coming on on the dash. Bulbs are good. ABS light does not come on at all with ignition, but bulb tests good. Just hard brakes, and no brake lights.
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I have a 2001 ex. 4x4 6.8 v10. I have been having vacuum issues and brake issues lately. My front brakes seem to be sticking, some times they drag some times the don't squeeze when I step on the brake causing uneven wear and pulling when I stop. Also feels like I have no power assist. I also have a vacuum issue with the auto setting on the hubs, they don't engage I have to manually lock them and sometimes my a/c stays on defrost. And my cruise control doesn't work, the light comes on and love done the self check but it doesn't show anything is wrong. Could I have a bad brake booster?
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Purchased a used 2010 Gen III a few months ago and have noticed a fast buzz, felt through the floor and brake pedal. It is intermittent but the conditions needed are:
1) Air conditioning running at high speed
2) Vehicle in Drive
3) Immediately approaching a stop, and a few seconds after stopping.
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Question, I have a 2003 VW Golf GLS 2.0L AHV (5 speed). The brake vacuum line is cracked after the check valve on the intake side. I looked up the part number on the hose (at work and don't have it on me at the moment), did some research and noticed some revisions to that part number. Eventually settled on [URL] ..... (I ordered a new one since I needed to order a few things). Needless to say, I am beginning to think I ordered wrong.
I noticed that the check valve on the new hose has a 3rd piece that a smaller hose looks to clamp on? The check valve that is in my car doesn't have that. Did I order the wrong part? or did I need to be a cap?
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How the rear, high center mounted brake light (ie "3rd brake light") intermittently lights individual bulbs, but never all at once. It was also causing an annoying "Check Brake Lights" warning plus beep on the dash (on every brake). Till I get it sorted I simply disconnected the 3rd brake light which completely turned it off and just gave me one warning/beep (instead of lots of them).
I spoke to VW about it yesterday and wasnt impressed by their attitude, so last night I tried plugging it back in to see if it was still the same now that my battery should be topped up due to change of house and longer trips. To my surprise at first it worked perfectly, all bulbs lit up.
However the more I tested, the less lights lit up. It was quite strange, they would "dance" on an off right in front of me. Wiggling the wiring had a small effect, but it didnt seem to be a wiring issue. So I plugged it out and left it was it was (disabled). However to my annoyance on my trip in today, I start getting repeated "Check Brake Light" warnings beeps (remember, its disconnected so it should do it once only) and even more irritating every time the warning came up on the dash the front left headlamp would flash on and off once! What the hell is going on with the lighting system!
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So I purchased my 2015 Lexus IS 350 AWD F-Sport back in October and experienced the following issues:
1. Brake squeal
- seems to occur when reversing out of a parking spot for example, so annoying and extremely loud, makes it sound like my brakes need changing
2. Bluetooth Radio
- there are times where my phone connects to the radio, plays music off my iPhone but then it sounds like the singer is slowly dying i.e.: the type of sound you used to hear when a walkman's batteries would be dying and needed changing. Happens sporadically
3. Gas tank lid on side of car won't close fully
- this happened just this week. I couldn't close my gas lid, no matter what I did. I managed to get it closed today after starting my car, wonder if its related at all to power/engine being on etc?
4. Buzzing in gas pedal resonates through foot
- this one is still driving me insane. Drive my car for 10-15 minutes on the highway and your foot feels like pins/needles from the buzzing sensation from the gas pedal.
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I have a new 2015 Elantra GL Manual that seems to have an E-brake that does not feel like it holds the vehicle solidly. I know that the E-brake is probably a small drum brake setup in the rears only but feel like an adjustment can be made to really ratchet that lever up better?
The other issue is a humming, buzzing, vibrating sound in the front passenger side area at hwy speeds. Maybe a vibrating splash shield or rock stuck under the shield?
I was also able to get some new alloy rims for a good price (FAST brand) from the dealer (believe it or not). They aren't the sexiest things to look at but I needed another set of rims anyway to winters and the price was better than plain steelies. I'll probably use the OEM steels for winter now and alloys for summer. The alloys are a little wider at 7 inches than the OEM 6.5 inches and much lighter. I plan on getting Michelin X-Ice soon.
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I'm taking out the brake booster and i need to know how to take off the booster from the brake pedal...
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